PH rising when adding to grow systems

tmold44

Well-Known Member
Wondered if anyone has had this issue. I run oldschool gen hydro power grower drip systems. I premix nuts and pH adjust 20 gallons at a time in separate resevoir. I then add to individual buckets as needed. I do a complete flush of buckets every 14 days. What I've noticed lately is I can pH adjust my nutrient mix to anywhere between 5.8 and 6.2 but when I add it to the individual systems and then check pH there it is 6.7-6.8. My plants look perfectly healthy but Id like to get this under control before it is an issue. I just recently started keeping logs of pH and tds....ive been growing in these systems for years with no issue's but didn't used to watch pH and tds as closely. Maybe it's always done this. Any ideas or shouldn't I worry about it....
 

Larry3215

Well-Known Member
On the one hand, if the plants are happy, you should be too :)

On the other hand, I would be bothered by this the same as you. They might be happy now, but maybe they could be even happier if the PH was in range?

In fact, I have the same issue. For me, its my water. I am on a well. The PPM's are low - 70-100ppm mostly. The PH starts out anywhere from 6.7 to 7.4 out of the tap - depending on how much rain we get. Every time I PH my water down, it climbs right back up.If I repeat the cycle two or three times durring a day, it will stay sort of stable, but it still climbs back up slowly over the next day or two.

If I draw water from my tap, and just let it sit, the PH will climb. If I shake it up or aerate it with an air stone, it shoots up super fast. So, basically any agitation or aeration accelerates the PH climb. So, if I am circulating or aerating my rez water or the water in buckets, it will make the PH climb even faster.

Im running an HPA system right now, and I am having to PH my water down to 4.9-5.0 in order to get the water coming from the nozzles to be in the 5.8 range. I can PH the rez down to 4.9, then fill the accumulator tank, and when I check the tank it is at 5.1. When I sample the water coming from the nozzles, it is at 5.8. The water in the tank stays fairly stable over time, because its not getting aerated.

Just circulating the water in the rez makes the PH go up slightly. The act of pumping it into the tank raises it a bit more, but shooting it out of a nozzle at hi pressure makes it shoot up a bunch.

My water has stuff in it that causes this process to be more annoying than with RO water, but any water can have this problem. It all comes down to CO2 and dissolved minerals..

Here is a quote from an article I read recently that explains it fairly well. Ive attached the full article as well if you are interested.

The role of CO2 in pool water #1
While some service techs go about their business taking care of various swimming pools,
and specifically after they lower pH by adding acid, they may ask themselves why the pH
of the water begins to rebound (rise back up again) afterwards. Also, they may wonder
why this pH rebound happens faster in some pools than in others.
The answer lies in the behavior of carbon dioxide in the water. Carbon dioxide (also
known as CO2 & carbonic acid) is formed when acid is added to swimming pool water,
and it is this compound that affects the changes in pH of pool water.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a common, essential compound in nature. It is found almost
everywhere, from what flowers and trees breathe in, to what humans and animals breathe
out; and to the bubbles in the soda you drink. In its warmer phase it is a gas, and in its
colder phase it becomes a solid – dry ice. Our atmosphere (the air we breathe) contains a
relatively small amount of gaseous carbon dioxide – only about 0.03% to 0.06% – which
is fortunate, since levels around 10% or higher would cause us all to lose consciousness!
Because it exists in the air, a slight amount of carbon dioxide can be absorbed by water.
In water, CO2 primarily exists as aqueous CO2 (gas in, but not fully reacted with the
water), but a small amount also combines with water to form carbonic acid: CO2 + H2O =
H2CO3, and the slightly acidic nature of this compound lowers the pH somewhat.
CO2 in Pool Water #2
Carbon dioxide plays an important role in the make up and balancing of pool water.
When dissolved in water, carbon dioxide has a direct effect on the water’s pH. The more
CO2 in the water, the lower the pH, and the less CO2, the higher the pH. Pool water with
no dissolved CO2 (but with a minimum alkalinity of 100 ppm) will have a pH of about
8.4 (as long as no other chemicals have been added). On the other hand, pool water that is
saturated with CO2 will have a pH down around 5.
Although CO2 can be introduced to water from the air, it is also produced in pool water
by simply adding acid. As we all know, when acid is added, both the alkalinity and the
pH are lowered. The alkalinity is lowered because, with normal pool water parameters,
the added acid reacts with bicarbonate alkalinity in the water, converting it to carbonic
acid – which is then no longer alkalinity.
For you who enjoy formulas, bicarbonate and acid form carbonic acid and chloride, or
HCO3 + HCl = H2CO3 + Cl, and then all but a fraction of a percent of the carbonic acid
Page 2 of 5
shifts to aqueous CO2: H2CO3 <==> CO2 (aq) + H2O. Depending on the amount of acid
added, a specific and calculatable amount of alkalinity is eliminated.
CO2 in Pool Water #3
After adding acid to the pool water, the pH goes down (at first) because of the effect on
pH of the increasing amount of CO2 (aq) produced by the acid. Shortly afterwards, the pH
begins to rebound and eventually can return to its original level. This is due to the
equilibrium relationship between the amount of CO2 in the water and the amount of CO2
in the air above the water. This is known as Henry’s Law. Since the acid addition forms
more CO2 (aq) in the water than is dictated by the equilibrium, most of the CO2 (aq) created
by the addition of acid will then begin to release and off-gas into the atmosphere – which
will gradually raise the pH level but not the alkalinity.
It may be instructive at this point to mention that the “natural” level of CO2 in balanced
pool water after it has had sufficient time to reach equilibrium with the atmosphere is
from about 0.5 ppm to 2.0 ppm and the pH will be around 8.0 to 8.3. This pH range is
dependent on total alkalinity.
Since it is dissolved CO2 in water that keeps calcium soluble in water, we want to
maintain pool water with just enough CO2 to keep the pH down in the mid to high 7
range. Too much CO2 in water creates low pH conditions that are aggressive to pool
plaster, and no CO2 creates high pH conditions that are scale forming to pool surfaces. Of
course, etching and scaling are something service techs are always trying to prevent from
happening.


Page 3 of 5
maintain pH and alkalinity. But, because the content of the CO2 being injected in the
water is higher than the natural level (equilibrium, or 8.2-8.3), most of it will off-gas over
time. Therefore, a continual addition of CO2 will be needed to keep the pH from rising.
Although this may be done manually, it is much easier by dosing the CO2 with a pH
controller.
CO2 in Pool Water #5
Why the pH rebounds.
While some of the following information has already been mentioned, let’s specifically
address the question raised at the beginning of this update series. Why does the pH
eventually rise after acid initially makes it drop? Again, the answer lies in the fact that
whenever the pH is below 8.2-8.3, there is generally more CO2 in water than its natural
equilibrium level with the atmosphere. Because of this, the extra CO2 will off-gas into
the atmosphere over time. The pH rises because CO2 is off-gassing from the pool water.
Unless checked, the pH will continue to rise until the CO2 reaches its equilibrium or
about 8.3. The more alkalinity (over 80 ppm), the stronger pull to a pH of 8.3. This is
one of the difficulties that pool service techs have to deal with. Generally, there is no
getting around this.
But there are exceptions to the above rule. For instance, a common but occasionally
unrecognized factor which interferes with CO2 off-gassing or absorption is a pool cover.
This particular situation will be cover in our next update. Incidentally, this entire update
discussion on carbon dioxide was published by Service Industry News in their Sept. 15,
2004 issue.
CO2 in Pool Water #6
Page 4 of 5
water, and will not be able to off-gas. Therefore, the pH will probably remain unchanged
(low) until either other chemicals are added, or the cover is removed.
When non-permeable covers are used, pH needs to be watched carefully. Ideally, the
cover should be removed for enough time to allow gases to equilibrate (perhaps 6 to 8
hours, twice a week for residential pools). When this is not an option, careful control of
pH using acids and bases must be maintained. How will you know if the pool contains
the right amount of CO2? The pH will be balanced.
CO2 in Pool Water #7 – How Long for pH change?
So how long does it take for CO2 to off-gas after adding acid? Or, why does the
“rebound” happen faster in some pools than others, or faster one time than another in the
same pool? CO2 off gassing, and its relative speed, are dependent on several factors,
which include water temperature, circulation, total alkalinity, ratio of water volume to
air-exposed surface, and atmospheric pressure. These factors affect both the rate and the
percentage of either off-gassing or absorption.
Factors which accelerate off-gassing (and speed pH rebound) include higher water
temperatures, increased circulation, and especially increased aeration. Factors which
inhibit off-gassing (thus slowing down pH rebound) include decreased aeration,
decreased circulation, and low temperature. Factors which promote absorption of CO2
(which drops pH) include high total alkalinity, a pH above 8.4, and low water
temperature.
 

Attachments

tmold44

Well-Known Member

Thank you for the detailed reply. My issue is quite similar to yours. I use an ro system on my city water. I don't run an air stone in my nute reservoir and it stays very pH stable. I move a lot of air through the grow buckets though and that is where I see the same thing as you. It rises as soon as it hits the buckets. I've also read that hydroton has properties that somehow promote pH to rise back towards neutral (7ph) but I'm not sure about that theory. So for now I will keep trying to find the right match of nutrient pH and hitting the number I want in the buckets. I know attention to detail and staying ahead of issues definitely goes a long way in successful hydro....but I will say I never used to check bucket pH...I only pH tested nutes and monitored tds of buckets compared to nutes. That's why I said for all I know this could have been going on for a long time. I'm going to reread your article and see what all I can apply from it to my situation.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply in such detail!
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
On the one hand, if the plants are happy, you should be too :)

On the other hand, I would be bothered by this the same as you. They might be happy now, but maybe they could be even happier if the PH was in range?

In fact, I have the same issue. For me, its my water. I am on a well. The PPM's are low - 70-100ppm mostly. The PH starts out anywhere from 6.7 to 7.4 out of the tap - depending on how much rain we get. Every time I PH my water down, it climbs right back up.If I repeat the cycle two or three times durring a day, it will stay sort of stable, but it still climbs back up slowly over the next day or two.

If I draw water from my tap, and just let it sit, the PH will climb. If I shake it up or aerate it with an air stone, it shoots up super fast. So, basically any agitation or aeration accelerates the PH climb. So, if I am circulating or aerating my rez water or the water in buckets, it will make the PH climb even faster.

Im running an HPA system right now, and I am having to PH my water down to 4.9-5.0 in order to get the water coming from the nozzles to be in the 5.8 range. I can PH the rez down to 4.9, then fill the accumulator tank, and when I check the tank it is at 5.1. When I sample the water coming from the nozzles, it is at 5.8. The water in the tank stays fairly stable over time, because its not getting aerated.

Just circulating the water in the rez makes the PH go up slightly. The act of pumping it into the tank raises it a bit more, but shooting it out of a nozzle at hi pressure makes it shoot up a bunch.

My water has stuff in it that causes this process to be more annoying than with RO water, but any water can have this problem. It all comes down to CO2 and dissolved minerals..

Here is a quote from an article I read recently that explains it fairly well. Ive attached the full article as well if you are interested.

The role of CO2 in pool water #1
While some service techs go about their business taking care of various swimming pools,
and specifically after they lower pH by adding acid, they may ask themselves why the pH
of the water begins to rebound (rise back up again) afterwards. Also, they may wonder
why this pH rebound happens faster in some pools than in others.
The answer lies in the behavior of carbon dioxide in the water. Carbon dioxide (also
known as CO2 & carbonic acid) is formed when acid is added to swimming pool water,
and it is this compound that affects the changes in pH of pool water.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a common, essential compound in nature. It is found almost
everywhere, from what flowers and trees breathe in, to what humans and animals breathe
out; and to the bubbles in the soda you drink. In its warmer phase it is a gas, and in its
colder phase it becomes a solid – dry ice. Our atmosphere (the air we breathe) contains a
relatively small amount of gaseous carbon dioxide – only about 0.03% to 0.06% – which
is fortunate, since levels around 10% or higher would cause us all to lose consciousness!
Because it exists in the air, a slight amount of carbon dioxide can be absorbed by water.
In water, CO2 primarily exists as aqueous CO2 (gas in, but not fully reacted with the
water), but a small amount also combines with water to form carbonic acid: CO2 + H2O =
H2CO3, and the slightly acidic nature of this compound lowers the pH somewhat.
CO2 in Pool Water #2
Carbon dioxide plays an important role in the make up and balancing of pool water.
When dissolved in water, carbon dioxide has a direct effect on the water’s pH. The more
CO2 in the water, the lower the pH, and the less CO2, the higher the pH. Pool water with
no dissolved CO2 (but with a minimum alkalinity of 100 ppm) will have a pH of about
8.4 (as long as no other chemicals have been added). On the other hand, pool water that is
saturated with CO2 will have a pH down around 5.
Although CO2 can be introduced to water from the air, it is also produced in pool water
by simply adding acid. As we all know, when acid is added, both the alkalinity and the
pH are lowered. The alkalinity is lowered because, with normal pool water parameters,
the added acid reacts with bicarbonate alkalinity in the water, converting it to carbonic
acid – which is then no longer alkalinity.
For you who enjoy formulas, bicarbonate and acid form carbonic acid and chloride, or
HCO3 + HCl = H2CO3 + Cl, and then all but a fraction of a percent of the carbonic acid
Page 2 of 5
shifts to aqueous CO2: H2CO3 <==> CO2 (aq) + H2O. Depending on the amount of acid
added, a specific and calculatable amount of alkalinity is eliminated.
CO2 in Pool Water #3
After adding acid to the pool water, the pH goes down (at first) because of the effect on
pH of the increasing amount of CO2 (aq) produced by the acid. Shortly afterwards, the pH
begins to rebound and eventually can return to its original level. This is due to the
equilibrium relationship between the amount of CO2 in the water and the amount of CO2
in the air above the water. This is known as Henry’s Law. Since the acid addition forms
more CO2 (aq) in the water than is dictated by the equilibrium, most of the CO2 (aq) created
by the addition of acid will then begin to release and off-gas into the atmosphere – which
will gradually raise the pH level but not the alkalinity.
It may be instructive at this point to mention that the “natural” level of CO2 in balanced
pool water after it has had sufficient time to reach equilibrium with the atmosphere is
from about 0.5 ppm to 2.0 ppm and the pH will be around 8.0 to 8.3. This pH range is
dependent on total alkalinity.
Since it is dissolved CO2 in water that keeps calcium soluble in water, we want to
maintain pool water with just enough CO2 to keep the pH down in the mid to high 7
range. Too much CO2 in water creates low pH conditions that are aggressive to pool
plaster, and no CO2 creates high pH conditions that are scale forming to pool surfaces. Of
course, etching and scaling are something service techs are always trying to prevent from
happening.


Page 3 of 5
maintain pH and alkalinity. But, because the content of the CO2 being injected in the
water is higher than the natural level (equilibrium, or 8.2-8.3), most of it will off-gas over
time. Therefore, a continual addition of CO2 will be needed to keep the pH from rising.
Although this may be done manually, it is much easier by dosing the CO2 with a pH
controller.
CO2 in Pool Water #5
Why the pH rebounds.
While some of the following information has already been mentioned, let’s specifically
address the question raised at the beginning of this update series. Why does the pH
eventually rise after acid initially makes it drop? Again, the answer lies in the fact that
whenever the pH is below 8.2-8.3, there is generally more CO2 in water than its natural
equilibrium level with the atmosphere. Because of this, the extra CO2 will off-gas into
the atmosphere over time. The pH rises because CO2 is off-gassing from the pool water.
Unless checked, the pH will continue to rise until the CO2 reaches its equilibrium or
about 8.3. The more alkalinity (over 80 ppm), the stronger pull to a pH of 8.3. This is
one of the difficulties that pool service techs have to deal with. Generally, there is no
getting around this.
But there are exceptions to the above rule. For instance, a common but occasionally
unrecognized factor which interferes with CO2 off-gassing or absorption is a pool cover.
This particular situation will be cover in our next update. Incidentally, this entire update
discussion on carbon dioxide was published by Service Industry News in their Sept. 15,
2004 issue.
CO2 in Pool Water #6
Page 4 of 5
water, and will not be able to off-gas. Therefore, the pH will probably remain unchanged
(low) until either other chemicals are added, or the cover is removed.
When non-permeable covers are used, pH needs to be watched carefully. Ideally, the
cover should be removed for enough time to allow gases to equilibrate (perhaps 6 to 8
hours, twice a week for residential pools). When this is not an option, careful control of
pH using acids and bases must be maintained. How will you know if the pool contains
the right amount of CO2? The pH will be balanced.
CO2 in Pool Water #7 – How Long for pH change?
So how long does it take for CO2 to off-gas after adding acid? Or, why does the
“rebound” happen faster in some pools than others, or faster one time than another in the
same pool? CO2 off gassing, and its relative speed, are dependent on several factors,
which include water temperature, circulation, total alkalinity, ratio of water volume to
air-exposed surface, and atmospheric pressure. These factors affect both the rate and the
percentage of either off-gassing or absorption.
Factors which accelerate off-gassing (and speed pH rebound) include higher water
temperatures, increased circulation, and especially increased aeration. Factors which
inhibit off-gassing (thus slowing down pH rebound) include decreased aeration,
decreased circulation, and low temperature. Factors which promote absorption of CO2
(which drops pH) include high total alkalinity, a pH above 8.4, and low water
temperature.
This should be stickied .
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I go through the aame shit, well water it raises for a few days then balences out.
.

Interesting about the pool cover bit.

I never had a lid for my res and itd get slime and ph rise really fast and now i cover them up, and the co2 probably doesnt escape as fast .

Less light less slime less ph rise..

Whats tour resevoirs look like?
Do you got lids?
Do you get slimes?

What do you do yo combat this ? Co2 line in your tank attached to a relay from a ph controller?
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
For me anytime I use PH up I end up chasing PH
If I PH down in moderation I get a more balanced PH level all the way thru
Your results may be totally unrelated but that is what I have had troubles with over the years
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I go through the aame shit, well water it raises for a few days then balences out.
.

Interesting about the pool cover bit.

I never had a lid for my res and itd get slime and ph rise really fast and now i cover them up, and the co2 probably doesnt escape as fast .

Less light less slime less ph rise..

Whats tour resevoirs look like?
Do you got lids?
Do you get slimes?

What do you do yo combat this ? Co2 line in your tank attached to a relay from a ph controller?
@Larry3215
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
For me anytime I use PH up I end up chasing PH
If I PH down in moderation I get a more balanced PH level all the way thru
Your results may be totally unrelated but that is what I have had troubles with over the years
Whatchya mean ph down in moderation.

Whats your reschange day look like in total
 

tmold44

Well-Known Member
I go through the aame shit, well water it raises for a few days then balences out.
.

Interesting about the pool cover bit.

I never had a lid for my res and itd get slime and ph rise really fast and now i cover them up, and the co2 probably doesnt escape as fast .

Less light less slime less ph rise..

Whats tour resevoirs look like?
Do you got lids?
Do you get slimes?

What do you do yo combat this ? Co2 line in your tank attached to a relay from a ph controller?
I have a 20 gallon reservoir with a lid. It's a brown hard plastic wit no light penetration. I have no air stone in nutrient resevoir. Ive never had a slime issue. I do use a 2ml/gallon hydroguard regimen and I use slf100 at 2.5ml/gallon as well.

I rarely have to use pH up. I always have to use a bit of pH down as my ro water usually is around 7ph prior to adjustment.
 
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projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I have a 20 gallon reservoir with a lid. It's a brown hard plastic wit no light penetration. I have no air stone in nutrient resevoir. Ive never had a slime issue. I do use a 2ml/gallon hydroguard regimen and I use slf100 at 2.5ml/gallon as well.

I rarely have to use pH up. I always have to use a bit of pH down as my ro water usually is around 7ph prior to adjustment.
Yeah ive got some shit coming in the mail tomorrow.

great white and southern ag garden friendly fungicide, and the recipe . Same shit, just way more potent



Hydroguard worked great at keeping my res and roots clean.

Peroxide and poolshock have been failing me lately. :/
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
You use enzymes and bacteria

Nice.

Have you ever tried without the slf100 and notice any diff


I hear their not worth it. Id like to hear your results and how you implement them into your schedule?

Weekly or do you wait to change your res longer
 

tmold44

Well-Known Member
You use enzymes and bacteria

Nice.

Have you ever tried without the slf100 and notice any diff


I hear their not worth it. Id like to hear your results and how you implement them into your schedule?

Weekly or do you wait to change your res longer
I use up all 20 gallons of my nute reservoir about every 4-5 days. Running 10 individual buckets. I remix when it's empty and use the hydroguard and slf every time I mix. So basically the reservoir always has pretty fresh nutes in it. I've never had any issues in that resevoir. I just added the slf 2 grows ago and did it to try and reduce some of the deposits (salts or calcium?) That occasionally clog up my drip tubing....the combination of the slf and ro water has eliminated my clogging in my grow systems and reduced the frequency having to totally flush my buckets. Now I top off buckets every day based on how much they drink and once about every 14 days I totally flush buckets and refill with all fresh.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I use up all 20 gallons of my nute reservoir about every 4-5 days. Running 10 individual buckets. I remix when it's empty and use the hydroguard and slf every time I mix. So basically the reservoir always has pretty fresh nutes in it. I've never had any issues in that resevoir. I just added the slf 2 grows ago and did it to try and reduce some of the deposits (salts or calcium?) That occasionally clog up my drip tubing....the combination of the slf and ro water has eliminated my clogging in my grow systems and reduced the frequency having to totally flush my buckets. Now I top off buckets every day based on how much they drink and once about every 14 days I totally flush buckets and refill with all fresh.
You top off with just water?

Ive been hearing lower ppms and refilling with more of the same solution until day 7-10 then change the res .

Are you worried about diluting your res then hitting them with a spike at res change P
 

tmold44

Well-Known Member
You top off with just water?

Ive been hearing lower ppms and refilling with more of the same solution until day 7-10 then change the res .

Are you worried about diluting your res then hitting them with a spike at res change P
I was pretty confusing in my explanation. I never top off with just water. I use all 20 gallons of mix and then remake another fresh 20 gallons. I top off my 10 individual grow buckets every day with mix from my resevoir. Each system uses about 1-2 quarts a day.....times 10 systems so that's aprox. 15 quarts a day total used nutes. So that's where I go through all 20 gallons in my resevoir in 4-5 days. I guess I should also state my resevoir is stand alone and not connected to the individual units at all. It is simply a holding tank of nutrient mix that I dip the 1 to 2 quarts a day per system from to top off what the plants drink. Hopefully that makes more sense.
 
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tmold44

Well-Known Member
Still can't figure it out. Today I put 5.6ph nutrient mix in and after 3 hours it's 6.6 in the grow systems. Im about to chalk it up to something scientific....lol. oh well at least for the most part they look healthy....here are pictures taken exactly 7 days ago and then today....2018-09-17 14.48.30.jpg 2018-09-24 12.59.16.jpg
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
How do you put your ph down into your resevoir?

I notice ph spikes if i just throw it in straight

But now ive been aiming low Like 5.2-5.5 and let it swing up.

And now i take my total amount needed. For me its 1cap per 5 gals water. And so i have a 15gal res. I need three caps.

So i take three solo cups of water and put a cap in each and stir them up and add each cup slowly every 5 minutes.

Also i run my recirc pump to stir while i wait.

And now i notice my ph doesnt swing up the next day and the next day.

It sits perfect around 6 i ise the liquid ph tester haha if its yellow let it mellow .
;)

Just my two cents. If your adding it straight it might precipitate out of the water one way or another . I dont know the total science or whatever please correct me if im wrong guys.
 

tmold44

Well-Known Member
How do you put your ph down into your resevoir?

I notice ph spikes if i just throw it in straight

But now ive been aiming low Like 5.2-5.5 and let it swing up.

And now i take my total amount needed. For me its 1cap per 5 gals water. And so i have a 15gal res. I need three caps.

So i take three solo cups of water and put a cap in each and stir them up and add each cup slowly every 5 minutes.

Also i run my recirc pump to stir while i wait.

And now i notice my ph doesnt swing up the next day and the next day.

It sits perfect around 6 i ise the liquid ph tester haha if its yellow let it mellow .
;)

Just my two cents. If your adding it straight it might precipitate out of the water one way or another . I dont know the total science or whatever please correct me if im wrong guys.
Maybe there is something to how I mix the nutrients. I start my water filling in my reservoir out of my ro filter. It fills 2 gallons a minute. So as its filling I just measure out each of the 5-7 different nutrients I'm using as well as my hydroguard and slf and let it get mixed with the water fill. I then just measure out the normal amount of ph down I need and toss it in....I start checking ph as I get to about 18 gallons in reservoir and add a little more to get it where I want it for that mix. I don't have a mixer however. So it basically mixes via the water turbulance while filling. The nutrient mix does seem to stay at a steady ph however for the entire 4-5 days it lasts so I assumed it was mix thoroghly.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I use general hydroponics three part with my feed pump has a shutoff to the table that goes to a hose that shoots back into the res to mix.

As i fill the res i add silica, wait 5 min.


I dilute the brown into a solo cup of water, stir. add to res. wait 5 min

Add the pink bottle to a solo cup of water . Stir. Add to res. wait 5 min

Same for the green

Add beneficials.

Get thee solo cups of water , one cap of ph down in each, stir, add each one to the res every 5 mins.


Seems very stable this way
 
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