Plants Stopped Growing - Now Growing Moss!

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
Ok here's the deal, I had to transplant a handful of starts but I used some cheap organic soil and perlite (see attached images) about a week later or so I noticed that the plants were not growing, I'm sittin here thinking WTF! then some time after I go check on them and now they are growing what looks to be moss, My question is now, why, and is this killing my plants?

Side Notes: Plants are under two standard shop lights with four tubes, feeding straight water, I ph the water by putting it in 5 gallon buckets and let sit, used a hot tub ph testing strip (tested ok)

I'm thinking it has something to do with the soil as I have other plants with different soil in same room and they are doing fine, please help me diagnose this problem, I need to Know if I should dump the plants and remove the pots with moss in them?


Help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Humboldt

Well-Known Member
LMAO! I read the bag again I think I found the problem (Canadian) j/k it says peat moss, could this be what is growing around my plants and is it killing them?
 

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
Any suggestion? I would like to know if I should dispose of the plants that are growing moss, is this moss killing my plants? also what could be causing this ? as not all my plants are growing moss.
 

bongo

Well-Known Member
Your lights sound shit and if you have moss growing on your plants then they must be wet, let it dry out and try get some serious light at least a cfl or sodium
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
Is the moss kinda slimy. Chances are its algea not moss. Treat with h202. If yo get the 3% common at local drug stores and mix one tablespoon / gal in your water. VV
 

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, I replanted the ones that were growing moss with better soil and I will let them dry out before adding anymore water, also I got a bunch of CFL's over them now and put the old lighting on the side, hopefully this will help.

Again thanks for the advise!
 

gst1147

Active Member
Do you have a moister meter? If not it might be a good investment they are only like 5 bux. Until then you can test the soil with your finger, make sure it dry and not just on the surface bc too much water will sufficate them bc when the soil is soaked constantly the roots cant get air. I think youll see and improvement with the cfl, you'd be surprised what one can do, heres a pic of my mother plant b4 i decided to flower her and put it under the hps. She was vegged with only one cfl that was only 24watts
 

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Humboldt

Well-Known Member
Nice! yeah I can only afford cfl's this time around, this is the practice round, I hope to get at least a 400w hps system for the next go around.

What exactly is a moister meter, how does it work, do you stick a prong in the soil (what's the moister level supposed to be at) if so I want one, could I get something like that at any major hardware store?.
 

gst1147

Active Member
If you are able to dosome small wiring i recommend just buying a 400 watt hps kit off of ebay, I think that they are 55 bux and thats whether you go with a 250, 400,600 or i think even 1000 watter it comes with the ballast, capacitor, and the ignitor. you have to get your onw power cord, but mine has worked for at least 7months no problems and i think with my bulb i have 72 dollars in mine and that includes the shipping.

As for the moister meter, walmart sells them for 5 bux, and it is just a prong you stick in the soil and it tells you if its dry, I just wait until the meter says that its on like 2-3 which reads dry, then water them.

Also are you vegging them with 2700k cfl bc they looked like they were yellow which is on the red side of the spectrum which is better for flowering, I think you should have 6500K which is for vegging.

And think about that kit it super easy to wire and comes with everything but the bulb and cord for 55 bucks and they even have adding on options so you can add the cord and bulb.

Heres the link I guess they are a liitle more than when i got mine but still not bad about 75 shipped but you can still get a 1000 watter, I know that im getting another 1000watt bc this 400 has performed great.

400 watt HPS Grow Light BALLAST KIT MH 175 250 600 1000 - (eBay item 180157057252 end time Sep-30-07 18:30:00 PDT)
 

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
Also are you vegging them with 2700k cfl bc they looked like they were yellow which is on the red side of the spectrum which is better for flowering, I think you should have 6500K which is for vegging.
I'm confused now, I was told to use the cfl's that I'm using for veg and ad some daylights come flowering.

I'm going to get one of those meters ASAP because I think I'm over watering. again thanks for the information.
 

gst1147

Active Member
Correlated Color Temperature(CCT)

The first factor in choosing a color of lamp is to determine whether you need a warm or cool light source. The CCT, expressed in Kelvin degrees, relates to actual thermal temperature. If you've ever seen a piece of metal being heated, you know that as the metal gets hotter, it's color changes. The CCT rating of HID and flourescent light sources indicate how warm or cool the light source is. For instance a lamp with a CCT of 2700 Kelvin is considered warm; with a CCT of 4200 Kelvin is considered neutral; and one of 6000 Kelvin is considered cool.

I got this from the grow faq and as you can see that 2700k is considered warm, which is best for flowering, hence why hps give off a yellow light, like the cfl you are using. And 6000k is cool or on the blue side of the spectrum (more of a white light), which is better for vegging. Im not saying that they are going to kill your plants, just figured that i would mention it to help you out a bit..
And get that moister meter they are well worth it...
good luck with the growing

heres a pic of my mother i vegged her with a 6500K cfl that was only 24watts with a cheap reflector from walmart
 

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the information but I'm still confused, could you possibly show me some pictures as to what light for what stage? please see attached files, I'm using softwhite (at least I think?) witch I was inform was best for vegetation and warm or daylight is best for flowering.

I plan to start flowering soon, since the lights that I'm using are best for flowering should I just keep the same lights and get the others for next round of vegetation?
 

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gst1147

Active Member
just read the packaging or the bulb itsself, and see if it says the color temperature, 2700k, 6500k ect.
 

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry but there are no color temps on the cfl packaging or bulbs, however on the standard flos it reads "color temp: 4100" are you referring to the flos, are they not good for vegetation? also I need help determining what type cfl bulbs are best for flowering.
 

iToke

Well-Known Member
Daylights are best for veg and warm white for flowering i think :)
so for veg you want to see 4700K or more, and for flowering 2700k
Im using cfl's right now, but i cant get hold of any daylights so im just using cool whites and a few warm whites for veg, its not to bad as long as you keep the light about a inch away from the plant to try and prevent to much stretching, my plants are looking ok so far, check out my log, ill be adding more pictures soon :)
 

Humboldt

Well-Known Member
I'm using soft whites for veg and I was told to use daylights for flowering (I'm sooo freakin confused) I'm about ready to start flowering but need to make sure of a few things before I do, if all else fails I will just put half and half I guess.
 

CALIGROWN

Well-Known Member
Transplant And Use New Medium. Also Look Into A Shop Light With 4 Ft. Bulbs At Least.. I Picked Up A Hydro Farm Brand 600 Watt Hps With Digital Ballast And Bulb And Reflector Hood On Ebay For $150.00. It Would Be A Very Smart Investment And Also The Electric Bill Only Went Up .22 Cents A Day. So About $6.00 A Month.
 
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