Potash Def. or Magnesium? I'm unsure...

barstyle

Member
I ran a soil test, I was low on potash. added some wood ash to the soil to bring the PH up a little as well, but it hasn't helped yet. any idea on what it is? the new leaves grow in fine, and then start to show the discoloration at the tips.

should I foliar feed a light epsom salt mixture?
 

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moash

New Member
looks like potassium def man
foliar feed with anything with K in it
i think thrive alive red have it
Mg def would have some sort of twist to it on the tip/margins
thats just on the tip
 
Magnesium deficiency, classic signs.


Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Figure​

Peace...Autoflowerchild
 
this is what K def looks like
Good pic of Potassium deficiency. Foliar feeding to resolve nute issues is a good way to kill the plant. Nutes should always be delivered only in one of two ways: either through the soil directly using pelleted, powder mixes or with a liquid solution to the soil directly. This applies to all plants and not only cannabis.

Peace...Autoflowerchild
 

moash

New Member
Good pic of Potassium deficiency. Foliar feeding to resolve nute issues is a good way to kill the plant. Nutes should always be delivered only in one of two ways: either through the soil directly using pelleted, powder mixes or with a liquid solution to the soil directly. This applies to all plants and not only cannabis.

Peace...Autoflowerchild
got it from the same place u got urs
my understanding is that foliar feeding slows down the spread of the def until u can get it fixed....
if its such a bad thing to do i dont think it would be recommened to treat def
 

Phelps

Well-Known Member
That is K def, not mg. Ash is a very low K content and is easily leached out of the soil with one or 2 waterings or a single rain. Get some seaweed meal (2.5% K plus all trace minerals), or rock potash (10.5% K). The rock potash will release K very slowly so u can load up on that and then get a seaweed extract to add to ur water. That is what I would do.
 
No its not. It has its disadvantages when humid or in flowering, but it helps when used properly.
Spraying nutes via foliar is nonsense. Plants are made (by nature) to absorb water & nutes such as in cannabis growing via their roots. Applying nutes in the foliar method isn't one of them. Nutes that sit on the plant leaves can burn them not to mention cause damage to the sensitive tissue of the stem. The ONLY thing that should ever be applied in a foliar application is water. I realize there are many sources of myth-information on applying nutes to cannabis on the internet by the foliar method. Those of us who work growing plants everyday find this amusing and would never suggest anything of the sort. But, don't take my suggestion for it, go ahead an apply those nutes with a spray bottle and see what happens.

Peace,
Autoflowerchild
 
got it from the same place u got urs
my understanding is that foliar feeding slows down the spread of the def until u can get it fixed....
Thats the same as telling someone to wash their car with a wax based soap it because the engine is running rough....

Peace,
Autoflowerchild
 

smppro

Well-Known Member
Spraying nutes via foliar is nonsense. Plants are made (by nature) to absorb water & nutes such as in cannabis growing via their roots. Applying nutes in the foliar method isn't one of them. Nutes that sit on the plant leaves can burn them not to mention cause damage to the sensitive tissue of the stem. The ONLY thing that should ever be applied in a foliar application is water. I realize there are many sources of myth-information on applying nutes to cannabis on the internet by the foliar method. Those of us who work growing plants everyday find this amusing and would never suggest anything of the sort. But, don't take my suggestion for it, go ahead an apply those nutes with a spray bottle and see what happens.

Peace,
Autoflowerchild
are you saying plants font take in water through there leaves?
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Firstly, the grower needs to decide whether or not there is a Mg or K deficiency. Hard to tell without an analysis of the makeup of the fertilizer used. Mg deficiencies show up first as pale yellow chlorosis of the lower leaves.

Foliar feeding is a quick and viable means of deficiency correction, if, you know what that deficiency is and use a spray that can correct it. If you don't, you just created a deficiency of another element or set of elements.

Foliar feeding is short lived yet a quick curative and must be done with the proper surfactant to be effective. 1/2 tsp/gallon of a complete soluble food is fine considering other nutritional facts. Once or twice a week in the morning is fine at a time when leaf stomata is open and receptive to intake.

UB
 
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