Powdery Mildew? Help!

innerG

Well-Known Member
NoOooooooooooooo

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I'm around day 40 in flowering. Only noticed a couple of little spots. I't's generally at ~50% humidity and it stays down in the ~60%s at night. One night some excess water sat in the drain trays overnight and I noticed this shortly after.

I've removed all the leaves I saw it on.

Going to keep an eye on it but if it doesn't go away I might have to chop a little early I think :(

I've never had PM before, if anyone has any tips please post em.

I misted the leaves with pH 9.5 water because I heard the spores hate it
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
http://www.growingformarket.com/articles/powdery-mildew-solutions

Milk
The newest organic control for powdery mildew is milk. In 1999, Brazilian scientist Wagner Bettiol reported excellent control of the fungus on greenhouse-grown zucchini using fresh cow’s milk diluted with water to a 10% solution. An Australian researcher, Peter Crisp, experimented with milk on roses and wine grapes - which get powdery mildew from different organisms. Crisp found that in most cases the 10% milk solution worked as well as the leading synthetic fungicide and as well as sulfur.
According to an article in Science News, the results have been proven in the field by grape growers. But there is some concern than using any product, even milk, repeatedly may allow the fungal organisms to develop resistance. So the current recommendation is to spray for powdery mildew every week, but alternate between remedies. And there are plenty of other recipes from which to choose.

Baking soda
Sodium bicarbonate - the same stuff you use for making biscuits or deodorizing the refrigerator - is highly effective against powdery mildew. Its effectiveness is not understood precisely, but it is thought to be a case of induced resistance - that is, the baking soda causes the plant to produce some compound to defend itself against pathogens.
Baking soda is particularly effective when paired with a horticultural oil. To mix your own solution, for each gallon of water in your sprayer, add 1 Tablespoon baking soda and 2.5 Tablespoons of horticultural oil. This makes a 0.5% concentration of bicarbonate, the maximum recommended for control of powdery mildew on roses; other species may tolerate greater concentrations, but you should test for phytotoxicity before spraying large areas.
Baking soda has a few drawbacks: First, it must be sprayed every week to protect new growth on the plant. It also can build up in soil when used in drought-stressed areas where only drip irrigation is used. Increased bicarbonate in soil can lead to removal of calcium and magnesium, and prevent the absorption of iron and lead to iron chlorosis. (These risks appear to be small in most farm situations.)

Garlic
Yet another kitchen remedy is garlic extracts, which can be made by blending two bulbs (not cloves!) of fresh garlic in a quart of water with a few drops of liquid soap. The liquid should be strained through cheesecloth to remove solids and then refrigerated. That concentrate should be diluted 1:10 with water before spraying. That provides a concentration of 25-50 parts per million of the active compound allicin, which will help prevent germination of powdery mildew spores. Once the spores are active, though, a concentration of 300 to 500 ppm is needed to cure powdery mildew.

Compost tea
The antifungal properties of compost tea are by now well known. Many organic growers, especially in the rainy Northwest part of the country, have had great results and are advocates for the benefits of compost tea. Several companies sell equipment for making compost tea, and some growers just mix one part of finished compost with six parts of water and let it soak for a week, then strain and dilute with water until it’s the color of tea.

Oils and anti-transpirants
Oils alone can be used to control powdery mildew. Vegetable seed oils such as canola oil can be used, at a rate of 2.5 to 3 Tablespoons per gallon of water, with the addition of a quarter-teaspoon of liquid soap to emulsify the oil. Most commercial horticultural oils already have an emulsifier added, so additional soap is not needed. Soap itself has been found to control powdery mildew, but it can cause phytotoxicity.
Neem oil is labeled for control of powdery mildew, rust, blackspot, botrytis, downy mildew and other diseases. Spraying with 2.5 Tablespoons per gallon of water every 7 to 14 days is recommended.
Mint oil (Fungastop) and rosemary oil (Sporan) are now being marketed as fungicides. Cinnamaldehyde (Cinnamite) also has been effective at controlling powdery mildew.
Antitranspirants are sprays that are used to prevent water loss from plant foliage. They have been found to also protect against several foliar diseases, including downy mildew, powdery mildew, and blackspot. One study showed that the antitranspirants Wilt Pruf and Vapor Guard, which are widely available at garden centers, protected roses from powdery mildew for 30 days. According to BIRC, antitranspirants are nonspecific against pathogens, so the fungus is not likely to develop resistance. However, they do reduce plant photosynthesis and should be used only during sunny weather and they need to be reapplied to protect new growth.

Copper and sulfur
A traditional treatment for plant diseases involves spraying sulfur and copper on highly susceptible plants. Several products are available for use by organic growers, but they are considered restricted, which means they can only be used if other management practices have failed. Both copper and sulfur can irritate skin and mucous membranes, so breathing protection should be worn.

Bacteria
Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus pumilis are two bacteria that have been found effective against powdery mildew and other diseases. Several commercial products containing these bacteria are now available: Serenade for home gardeners and Rhapsody for commercial growers. Sonata is specifically for control of powdery mildew in roses.

Resources
Two publications from the Bio-Integral Research Center (Box 7414, Berkeley, CA 94707; 510-524-2567) provide more details on least-toxic solutions to powdery mildew: IPM Practitioner (March/April 2005) and Common Sense Pest Control (Summer 2004).
 

innerG

Well-Known Member
I only misted the leaves early in the day. The high alkali water is supposed to inhibit mold

From my reading, PM is actually a mold that starts without water it just uses the humidity in the air.

Only one of my two plants had any, if that means anything (different strains)
 
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hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
I only misted the leaves early in the day. The high alkali water is supposed to inhibit mold

Only one of my two plants had any, if that means anything (different strains)
No water will control PM. Not by itself.I'm a retired RN. I know a bit about molds and funguses and bacteria. I posted some organic control methods. Read it and see some for preventive treatment which I strongly suggest.
 

innerG

Well-Known Member
No water will control PM. Not by itself.I'm a retired RN. I know a bit about molds and funguses and bacteria. I posted some organic control methods. Read it and see some for preventive treatment which I strongly suggest.
I read what you pasted but there are hundreds of similar articles out there. If anyone has any personal experience please share

I'm thinking of trying milk, but I read it needs to be unpasteurized. I'm not sure where to even get that lol

I've also increased airflow in there a lot and am running the exhaust from my hood 24/7. It's not a sealed grow room, it's a closet that passively pulls in air
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Neem oil is the most talked about here. I used milk but it was not pasteurized and still seemed to kill it off before its time. Where are you located?Search Google for raw milk sources near you. There are usually several dairies that sell it if state law doesnot require ALL milk be pasteurized. Got any Amish or Hutterites or such? Get it there.
 

innerG

Well-Known Member
Hm, that mentions mint and Rosemary oil.

I have a organic insect soap/spray thing that has those in it. I've used it on an outdoor plant as an insect ward but I wonder if it could help for this?

It has a pretty strong odor to be using it inside my house though, whew! Lol

I think I may be too far along in flowering to use anymore Azamax/Neem
 

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
Air movement air movement air movement!!!

Do you have fans blowing in there?

I have dealt with PM multiple times. Keeping the humidity below 50% and air circulation is the way to prevent it. I used GreenCure with great results. The milk thing was the worst I ever tried. I really hate the smell of rotten milk!
 

innerG

Well-Known Member
I'm keeping humidity down as much as I can, it's not a sealed room though.

I have 2 small circ fans and a duct fan pulling from the hood. Since I've noticed it I put a huge round fan blowing into the closet with the door open so they're really getting blasted with air now

I've been leaving a circ fan and the exhaust fan running through the dark period - I wasn't moving any air in there during the dark period before :( I think that's really what caused it.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
I have to deal with PM in my area, outdoor susceptible garden plants like some bushes are covered in it in my area, it's near impossible to keep my indoor area completely free of it so I spray certain strains every 2 weeks using the baking soda reference above to keep it from starting. Indica's tend to get it worse, although some sat's will also get it. It's so bad in my area I've culled any strains/pheno's that get it and have found only a couple of indica-leaning strains that are somewhat resistant to it.

If you have it in your room or area, you will get it in your indoor room, there's no way to completely eradicate it imo. But you can manage it by looking for strains (even pheno's within the same strain can be better or worse at resisting it) that are at least somewhat resistant to it, anything strain with high levels of limonene (e.g. JTR) tends to be resistant, I run a JTR which is pretty well immune to it. You can reduce the chance of it showing up if you keep your humidity below 50% and lots of airflow - but this is no guarantee, it does reduce the chance of it starting up, particularly with strains that have shown resistance to it.
 

innerG

Well-Known Member
I'm keeping humidity down as much as I can, it's not a sealed room though.

I have 2 small circ fans and a duct fan pulling from the hood. Since I've noticed it I put a huge round fan blowing into the closet with the door open so they're really getting blasted with air now
I have to deal with PM in my area, outdoor susceptible garden plants like some bushes are covered in it in my area, it's near impossible to keep my indoor area completely free of it so I spray certain strains every 2 weeks using the baking soda reference above to keep it from starting. Indica's tend to get it worse, although some sat's will also get it. It's so bad in my area I've culled any strains/pheno's that get it and have found only a couple of indica-leaning strains that are somewhat resistant to it.

If you have it in your room or area, you will get it in your indoor room, there's no way to completely eradicate it imo. But you can manage it by looking for strains (even pheno's within the same strain can be better or worse at resisting it) that are at least somewhat resistant to it, anything strain with high levels of limonene (e.g. JTR) tends to be resistant, I run a JTR which is pretty well immune to it. You can reduce the chance of it showing up if you keep your humidity below 50% and lots of airflow - but this is no guarantee, it does reduce the chance of it starting up, particularly with strains that have shown resistance to it.
good to know - this is my first year living in the PNW so it may be a seasonal or thing that just happens here.

It's happening on a Bubbleberry that has long dense colas but not on a Mendo Purple Kush that has 'rounder' shaped buds

Once we start up the furnace for the winter I bet it will help dry the air some, but I'll definitely research PM resistance befor I get clones next time.

Thanks!

Do you think I should just manage it if I can and do a H202 bath before I dry?
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
good to know - this is my first year living in the PNW so it may be a seasonal or thing that just happens here.

It's happening on a Bubbleberry that has long dense colas but not on a Mendo Purple Kush that has 'rounder' shaped buds

Once we start up the furnace for the winter I bet it will help dry the air some, but I'll definitely research PM resistance befor I get clones next time.

Thanks!

Do you think I should just manage it if I can and do a H202 bath before I dry?
Yeah, I moved into the area I'm in now about 3 years ago and didn't even hear about it until I started up the indoor garden. Then when I researched it I looked around and the whole neighbourhood is covered in it. Certain garden bushes that are susceptible to it look white by the end of the summer.

I personally wouldn't smoke it if it had spread to the buds I've culled them in the past and moved on to a strain that can resist it. Only thing I'd consider using it for if the buds got it would be running it for hash after an H2O2 treatment.
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Take your sprayer, add water and a tsp of baking soda and a couple of drops of gentle dish soap to a quart, or a tablesppon and a teaspoon (20ml) of baking soda and about a tsp of soap to a gallon of water. Spray plants early in the morning or at mid day so they can dry. Just not at night. Remove all leaves with pm on them because it spreads with the wind. Your pistals will darken and recede a bit, oh well. Theyll bounce back.

Then when your done the grow make damn sure you bleach everything everywhere in the room and start being pro active with the pm. Spray the baking soda solution on while plants are in veg so you dont have to spray them in bud. The leaves will already be at a good ph and not let the pm take hold. Also youll want to get that humidity down.
 

innerG

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I moved into the area I'm in now about 3 years ago and didn't even hear about it until I started up the indoor garden. Then when I researched it I looked around and the whole neighbourhood is covered in it. Certain garden bushes that are susceptible to it look white by the end of the summer.

I personally wouldn't smoke it if it had spread to the buds I've culled them in the past and moved on to a strain that can resist it. Only thing I'd consider using it for if the buds got it would be running it for hash after an H2O2 treatment.
dang I guess I'll just have to see how it goes. Haven't seen any on the buds, but that doesn't mean it isn't there. That's why I may do the H202 before drying even if I don't see any on the flowers.
Take your sprayer, add water and a tsp of baking soda and a couple of drops of gentle dish soap to a quart, or a tablesppon and a teaspoon (20ml) of baking soda and about a tsp of soap to a gallon of water. Spray plants early in the morning or at mid day so they can dry. Just not at night. Remove all leaves with pm on them because it spreads with the wind. Your pistals will darken and recede a bit, oh well. Theyll bounce back.

Then when your done the grow make damn sure you bleach everything everywhere in the room and start being pro active with the pm. Spray the baking soda solution on while plants are in veg so you dont have to spray them in bud. The leaves will already be at a good ph and not let the pm take hold. Also youll want to get that humidity down.
I might try the baking powder but does it leave a residue? I removed all the leaves with it
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
dang I guess I'll just have to see how it goes. Haven't seen any on the buds, but that doesn't mean it isn't there. That's why I may do the H202 before drying even if I don't see any on the flowers.

I might try the baking powder but does it leave a residue? I removed all the leaves with it
No residue. Well really almost no residue. But it works. And its the soda, not the powder. Plus its less than a buck for a lb. win win.
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Ah, soda not powder! That would def leave a lot less of a residue lol. I think I have some ill give it a try
I have to bite my tongue in the hydro store while im bullshitting with the guys that work there when i see people come in and buy stuff for PM for like 80 bucks a jug. And all i want to say is go get some baking soda for a buck. But screw them for not doing research...
 

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
Basically you just control it from taking over, its never dead and its in and on everything. Treating it systemically is the only means of true eradication and then it's not guaranteed. Even if systemics did nullify the spores and caused a mass die off/reduction in the visibility of the fruiting bodies of the mildew , the finished dried product would be contaminated with a fungicide.
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Basically you just control it from taking over, its never dead and its in and on everything. Treating it systemically is the only means of true eradication and then it's not guaranteed. Even if systemics did nullify the spores and caused a mass die off/reduction in the visibility of the fruiting bodies of the mildew , the finished dried product would be contaminated with a fungicide.
Not if you use baking soda. Fungicides cost too much anyway.
 
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