RDWC UC configuration

hook this up to intake or exhaust fan. the new lights from dimlux have pretty sweet vapor pressure deficit settings along with tmp ones.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015RZX68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


i bought the danner 700 and it doesnt seem like much flow, i thought it would be rumbling, swishing. more of a gentle flow.

danner 1200 might be better and you future proof urself if you ever add 4 more buckets. definitely need much better airpump. i have the airforce one and it is sweet and much cheaper than alita etc

Velvet Elvis said:

hook this up to intake or exhaust fan. the new lights from dimlux have pretty sweet vapor pressure deficit settings along with tmp ones.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015RZX68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


i bought the danner 700 and it doesnt seem like much flow, i thought it would be rumbling, swishing. more of a gentle flow.

danner 1200 might be better and you future proof urself if you ever add 4 more buckets. definitely need much better airpump. i have the airforce one and it is sweet and much cheaper than alita etc

Click to expand...

Good advice, thx

Should I go with an air force pro 40, 60, or 80? I'll be aerating the 4 grow containers, the controller, and the barrel reservoir

Keep the water in the system at 55-65 degrees and ambient temprature really doesnt matter that much.

JSB99 said:

Should I go with an air force pro 40, 60, or 80? I'll be aerating the 4 grow containers, the controller, and the barrel reservoir

Click to expand...

No experience with air force air pumps but the alita 40 and 80 are monsters

JSB99 said:

Should I go with an air force pro 40, 60, or 80? I'll be aerating the 4 grow containers, the controller, and the barrel reservoir

Click to expand...

And convert your gallons to liters and half of that is the least size you'll want your air pump.

For the water pump you'll want to circulate your rez every 5 mins so multiply your gallons by 12 and that will be your minimum pump size.

two2brains said:

And convert your gallons to liters and half of that is the least size you'll want your air pump.

For the water pump you'll want to circulate your rez every 5 mins so multiply your gallons by 12 and that will be your minimum pump size.

Click to expand...

Great advice. Thanks

JSB99 said:

You may have misunderstood me. I was referring to the inside of the tent. You know how you hang a wired thermostat sensor from your hood so you know how warm the top of the canopy is getting? Same concept, only the sensor would be attached to the ballast. When the canopy reaches the threshold temp (say 85 degrees), the ballast automatically drops to 600w. The ballast would probably have a waiting period so the tent cools down before taking readings again.

Then, say, the temp at the canopy drops below the minimum threshold. If it was at 600w, the ballast could switch to 1000w.

Make more sense?

I think this would be an awesome tool to have. Especially if you're away and some hot days hit.

Click to expand...

that's what gavitas do. if they are running at 1150w, and it senses the bulb area (not the canopy) is getting too hot, it will drop down to 1000 or 750 until it cools itself down and then will ramp back up.

rkymtnman said:

that's what gavitas do. if they are running at 1150w, and it senses the bulb area (not the canopy) is getting too hot, it will drop down to 1000 or 750 until it cools itself down and then will ramp back up.

Click to expand...

I see.

I'll check them out. Doubt I'll need one, but thought it'd be a cool idea if it didn't exist.

JSB99 said:

I see.

I'll check them out. Doubt I'll need one, but thought it'd be a cool idea if it didn't exist.

Click to expand...

i thought it is pretty cool idea. those DE bulbs have to run at a hot temp to keep their output proper.

just wonder with a regular HPS bulb if it would mess it up if it was ramping up and down from 600 to 1000 on a regular basis? but you could be on to the next big idea! retire early.

rkymtnman said:

i thought it is pretty cool idea. those DE bulbs have to run at a hot temp to keep their output proper.

just wonder with a regular HPS bulb if it would mess it up if it was ramping up and down from 600 to 1000 on a regular basis? but you could be on to the next big idea! retire early.

Click to expand...

I thought of presenting my idea to one of the ballast makers, but I think they're all made in China

Anyways, already retired early...not to say a bit more wouldn't be nice.

But you're right, switching voltages may effect the bulb. But, maybe the bad effects don't take place until you've depleted the usable light.

Who knows. Hey, I need a partner out there who can handle all the BS, and I'll just be the "idea" man lol

And yeah, I was having trouble wrapping my head around the DE bulbs and how to keep the tent from getting too hot. I don't get it and I don't see it mentioned much so maybe it's still in its infancy, like LEDs.

It's been a year since I've researched LEDs. Are they ready to compete with a 600w yet?

two2brains said:

And convert your gallons to liters and half of that is the least size you'll want your air pump.

For the water pump you'll want to circulate your rez every 5 mins so multiply your gallons by 12 and that will be your minimum pump size.

Click to expand...

I estimated 80 gallons which gave me 960gph needed. I'm also going to have a 1/10th hp chiller. I'm guessing that going with the danner 1200gph would easily account for that, right?

JSB99 said:

Great advice. Thanks

Click to expand...

Also, when calculating for the air pump, the amount needed is GPM, and not GPH, correct?

So for mine, I calculated 151.5 LPM. Sound right?

JSB99 said:

It's been a year since I've researched LEDs. Are they ready to compete with a 600w yet?

Click to expand...

definitely so. performance wise they are probably better with the full spectrum LEDs. cost wise and i think depth of canopy penetration HPS is hard to beat.

JSB99 said:

I'm also going to have a 1/10th hp chiller.

Click to expand...

i would double check that. i have a 1/10 but with maybe 20 to 30 gallons. chillers are like fans, better too much than too little.

rkymtnman said:

i would double check that. i have a 1/10 but with maybe 20 to 30 gallons. chillers are like fans, better too much than too little.

Click to expand...

gotcha

For 80 gallons I'm going with the danner 12 supreme 1200gph

For air, I am a little confused about the formula above. The numbers weren't giving me the pumps I was expecting. But, I would have to imagine one of the following would suffice:


BTW, I'm looking properly add the amount of bubbled for a true DWC, not just add some bubbles.

Apollo Horticulture 80 Watt 70-LPM Commercial Air Pump
Air Force Pro 80 Linear Air Pump
Alita 60
Alita 80

Am I in the right ballpark with these?

Also, these are the air stones I'll be running AIRSTONES
Those seem to be the most suggested.

rkymtnman said:

i would double check that. i have a 1/10 but with maybe 20 to 30 gallons. chillers are like fans, better too much than too little.

Click to expand...

I guess you were saying I should check the chiller size with that much water. So maybe look at the 1/4hp?

JSB99 said:

So maybe look at the 1/4hp?

Click to expand...

i would. there is a formula for selecting chiller size. maybe check the webstite for the chiller manufacturers. if you plan on running your nute solution thru it, a titanium one would be better. but more expensive. i ran mine thru a wort chiller (homebrewing websites) with just plain water from a stand alone bucket into the wort chiller which was in my control tub.

i didn't run any airstones in my rdwc. i built a top watering fill system with some pvc fittings that i drilled holes in to create a waterfall in the top of each grow tote. and then a drain at the bottom of each tote to go back to the control tub. i think my pump was maybe 700gpm. waterfalls are better than airstones. and they don't clog up like stones do.

rkymtnman said:

i didn't run any airstones in my rdwc. i built a top watering fill system with some pvc fittings that i drilled holes in to create a waterfall in the top of each grow tote. and then a drain at the bottom of each tote to go back to the control tub. i think my pump was maybe 700gpm. waterfalls are better than airstones. and they don't clog up like stones do.

Click to expand...

Interesting. I did something like that, only with sprayers. Roots hung in air and water drained after misted. Had trouble with clogging though. I could see how drips wouldn't have much of an issue with that. Would certainly save a lot of money.

Do you keep a constant drip, or 15 minute inc?