Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Oh...........and I'm liking the SSDD so far, I've got a really early finishin pheno and the calyx's are Chunky, LOL. She's at day 45 now and will probably be ready in 4-5 days............I have been using far red at lights out on a 12-12 cycle, she may take longer without this, no evidence to back this up though.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
I'm going to start a journal for my SSDD and agent orange. For your base soil (SPM/compost/aeration) instead of 33% each, what if someone did like..

20-25% SPM
About 35% compost
About 40% aeration
 

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
How would one go about starting a no till pot? Im super interested in the most natural growing method possible.
I have organic soil full of life but I'm unsure on the process of starting a "no till" in a pot.
Worms, microbial life, cover crops like clovers, and your crop of choice (cannabis in this case), I know are all components.
Some more insight would be much appreciated!
 
How would one go about starting a no till pot? Im super interested in the most natural growing method possible.
I have organic soil full of life but I'm unsure on the process of starting a "no till" in a pot.
Worms, microbial life, cover crops like clovers, and your crop of choice (cannabis in this case), I know are all components.
Some more insight would be much appreciated!
If you have the soil inoculated already, plant away then come harvest time simply leave the root ball intact and cut the recently harvested plants stalk as close to the soil as you can, now plant your new gear right next to the old stalk. Now you're No-tillin' keeping the soil food web un-disturbed. Continue 2-3 cycles for each batch. Some do it for more than that.
 

STX.OrganicGuerilla

Active Member
Ok cool.
If you have the soil inoculated already, plant away then come harvest time simply leave the root ball intact and cut the recently harvested plants stalk as close to the soil as you can, now plant your new gear right next to the old stalk. Now you're No-tillin' keeping the soil food web un-disturbed. Continue 2-3 cycles for each batch. Some do it for more than that.
Another question, once I have colonies of mycorrhizae on the top of the soil in my bin, should I turn the soil? Or simply let it be undisturbed until scooping to put into pots?
Also adding mulch to the tops of pots?
 
I as well have a question, more so my wife's question (she's taking the leap and starting her own little grow!). In my facility, I will have Marionberry Kush, Agent Orange, Grease Monkey, and sour banana sherbet while she will be starting her first grow with some sour diesel autos from dinafem (I know I Know). My question is: Where I'll be stirring up super soil and no tilling, I'll be letting it inoculate about two months but she wants to start sooner than that. Without letting it inoculate, say she lets it set only two weeks or not at all and uses it immediately, how will that effect the plants (autos specifically)? I have never grown autos so I for one have no clue if it may burn them or not work well but I do know we both want to keep it organic no matter what. Also, using non inoculated soil for the autos or two weeks setting, is that soil a good candidate for no till on round two or should it be put back into cans and set the proper time to inoculate? Thanks homies
 
Ok cool.

Another question, once I have colonies of mycorrhizae on the top of the soil in my bin, should I turn the soil? Or simply let it be undisturbed until scooping to put into pots?
Also adding mulch to the tops of pots?

I turn mine only a once maybe a couple of times keeping it moist and "sweating" within the bins. I'll let it set without touching it at all, preferably three weeks to a month after the last turn of soil. Come time to potting, I mix it up a final time and fill all of my pots 2/3 with super soil and the top 1/3 with just base and that's always worked well for me. There's a million recipes and you'll see tons of variations with not just the super soil but the cold plug as well. I keep it to a minimum on the top 3rd with just base, myco, other beneficial microorganisms.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I as well have a question, more so my wife's question (she's taking the leap and starting her own little grow!). In my facility, I will have Marionberry Kush, Agent Orange, Grease Monkey, and sour banana sherbet while she will be starting her first grow with some sour diesel autos from dinafem (I know I Know). My question is: Where I'll be stirring up super soil and no tilling, I'll be letting it inoculate about two months but she wants to start sooner than that. Without letting it inoculate, say she lets it set only two weeks or not at all and uses it immediately, how will that effect the plants (autos specifically)? I have never grown autos so I for one have no clue if it may burn them or not work well but I do know we both want to keep it organic no matter what. Also, using non inoculated soil for the autos or two weeks setting, is that soil a good candidate for no till on round two or should it be put back into cans and set the proper time to inoculate? Thanks homies
Hey man, good questions.

#1, with supersoil, i would bet the mix actually gets pretty warm for the first week to 10 days once it gets going. #2, it takes time for microbes to start breaking stuff down by microbial processes. so it's best used when it's been given the allotted time it needs to cycle nutrients #3 you should never put a seeding right into super soil, it's got way too much fertilizer in it. you should use just a seed starter potting mix or make your own with peat, perlite, and EWC (1 part of each) #4, most on here would not use a super soil for a no till base (many have their own reasons for this and i'm sure will chime in). It would be better to build your own base from scratch.

hope this helps
 

kkt3

Well-Known Member
For plants directly after germination, when growing organic do you guys just use the base? I want to keep it simple for the plants sake..

SPM/ Malibu Compost/ Perlite & Red Lava Rock

I was thinking about adding a touch of Neem and kelp, but then I have to let it cycle?
Pattahabi shared this seedling recipe and that's what I use.

-equal parts peat moss, perlite and ewc with oyster shell flour

Last grow I mixed up enough to fill 2 solo cups, then I added an 1/4 teaspoon oyster shell flour and mixed it really good.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
What is your soil recipe?
I turn mine only a once maybe a couple of times keeping it moist and "sweating" within the bins. I'll let it set without touching it at all, preferably three weeks to a month after the last turn of soil. Come time to potting, I mix it up a final time and fill all of my pots 2/3 with super soil and the top 1/3 with just base and that's always worked well for me. There's a million recipes and you'll see tons of variations with not just the super soil but the cold plug as well. I keep it to a minimum on the top 3rd with just base, myco, other beneficial microorganisms.
What
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
Pattahabi shared this seedling recipe and that's what I use.

-equal parts peat moss, perlite and ewc with oyster shell flour

Last grow I mixed up enough to fill 2 solo cups, then I added an 1/4 teaspoon oyster shell flour and mixed it really good.
Sounds like it would be acidic.
I recently started seedlings in a custom soilless mix to get faster growth. So far it has worked.
WP_20170202_006.jpg
I'll put them in a relatively hot organic soil when they go into 5 gal cloth pots & gradually reduce synthetic nutes.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
What about that would make it acidic? I wanted to make a soil to germinate seeds in, before I transplant into regular soil recipe. I was also thinking about just using my base soil, and add a sprinkle of oyster shell flour/crab shell meal?

Sounds like it would be acidic.
I recently started seedlings in a custom soilless mix to get faster growth. So far it has worked.
View attachment 3893245
I'll put them in a relatively hot organic soil when they go into 5 gal cloth pots & gradually reduce synthetic nutes.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
What about that would make it acidic? I wanted to make a soil to germinate seeds in, before I transplant into regular soil recipe. I was also thinking about just using my base soil, and add a sprinkle of oyster shell flour/crab shell meal?
if you mix in the OSF that will help with any acidity. i don't see why it would be acidic.
 
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Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
if you mix in the OSF that will help with any acidity. i don't see why it would be acidic.
PH of peat is 5.5 -- gotta add more than a sprinkle of OSF.
Might be fine. For peat moss, I just use a mix that's already neutral, like promix but it's more of a personal preference I guess. Makes it easier to get a good blend when mixing a new batch of Gritty Kitty. I've also been experimenting with pre-charging gritty kitty before transplant using a starter solution that's very high in P (5-50-17). Done it three times with great results on both large and small plants.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
PH of peat is 5.5 -- gotta add more than a sprinkle of OSF.
Might be fine. For peat moss, I just use a mix that's already neutral, like promix but it's more of a personal preference I guess. Makes it easier to get a good blend when mixing a new batch of Gritty Kitty. I've also been experimenting with pre-charging gritty kitty before transplant using a starter solution that's very high in P (5-50-17). Done it three times with great results on both large and small plants.
i been hearing talk about the gritty kitty. what's the deal with that stuff?
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
i been hearing talk about the gritty kitty. what's the deal with that stuff?
The latest recipe is a 4-part mix:
2 parts ProMix HP (peat, perlite, wood bits, etc)
1 part rinsed coco coir
1 part rinsed calcined clay (Special kitty all natural from WalMart)

It seems to be the sweet spot for aeration & water retention. I'm experimenting with pre-charging the entire mix vs charging the clay only. Also got a biochar experiment going, but I'm not changing the recipe without conclusive results. Working on it...
 
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