Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Cann

Well-Known Member
don't worry about the red stems lol...totally fine.

personally, i use gypsum for sulfur. it's also a great calcium source. 1/2 cup per cuft when I am building a soil...no idea how much to add for a reamend.

oh...and glacial rock dust will have sulfur too, just lower amounts
 

Hÿdra

Active Member
What is the preferred starter recipe for ROLS? Will be getting my ingredients together and just want to make sure im going of the best list:) I have been not having good luck with bottled nutes, and want big nice plants like Treep, cann, and rrog...
CHeers!
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
does anyone here dilute their compost teas?
I do but I make a strong tea. lol . It is easier to make one tea and dilute it amongst 4 buckets than it is to make 4 teas. Here at ROLS, we are all about making growing as lazy as possible..lol

now that's a mission statement...





disclaimer:
this person is not responsible for the claims this person made and this persons actions do not reflect on this person or persons who are responsible for the actions made by this claim....lol
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Yes I have seen those plenty of times.it sometimes is a retarded pheno that is different. Like russet potatoes. The Uk cheese is really a retarded skunk 1 pheno . Cinderella 99 is a retarded Afghan kush pheno. Others times its just still an immature plant.

Kelp and neem would be best.

Oc farm supply does have red wiggler worms. "$14 for a big box" said the girl on the phone. She didn't know how many or how much it weighed.
The 3 Cheese #1 I have grown (or currently growing) smell like coffee / Cheese, quite pleasant smell actually I am revegging the heavy yielder... not sure I would call them retarded lol
 

PeaceLoveCannabis

Well-Known Member
Just started my ROLS grow last night. They look so happy. Thank you all for the information provided here, It was what made me decide to do ROLS. SIMPLICITY! Does everyone here have worms living in there pots? I put some in my pots, not sure how that will go.
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
i always have worms in my pots. i didn't put 95% of them there, they showed up from topdressing castings w/ cocoons. a few I placed in the pots long, long ago.

I harvested a plant last week, and then cannibalized some of the soil for some rooted clones...planted 10 clones into party cups..when I transplanted them today I found at least 1 worm in each party cup...they tend to congregate at the top or bottom of the pots, so when you transplant and flip the pot upside down you often find yourself looking at a few worms in the rootball. i swear some of my #45 smartpots have enough worms to be borderline considered a wormbin...

your worms will be fine as long as you water enough. if you let the soil dry out you will see the worms trying to make an exodus. often they don't make it far and end up drying out on the floor..there are the occasional crispy worms in my tent :mrgreen:

welcome to the ROLS party!

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Qrazy Train ~ 8 weeks
 

PeaceLoveCannabis

Well-Known Member
When i first started a worm bin i had a few dried out worms around the bin.. But now i don't see any fried ones. It's been a real treat to walk into the garden and see really healthy plants. I was never good with chemicals.. LOL
 

jubiare

Active Member
Hÿdra;9320780 said:
What is the preferred starter recipe for ROLS? Will be getting my ingredients together and just want to make sure im going of the best list:) I have been not having good luck with bottled nutes, and want big nice plants like Treep, cann, and rrog...
CHeers!
Any at the start of the thread, as long as you stress on the ewc/compost quality.. You'll be fine really! You'll see anyone has their twist on the recipe and likes/dislikes, start from one of them and soon you'll be experimenting your own take!
You'll be laughing out loud on your chemical bottles failures, soon enough eheh
 

danielJackson

New Member
Wooo made it! Finishing, a long thread is like getting to the end of a book, only you get to brag to the author's at the end. Thank you all very much for the information and inspiration!

I have a lot to figure out of course, but had a couple questions to start.

1) For those using Blumats: Can you topdress under the drips? Is it possible to reduce the amount of "drenching" by doing this?

I grow in a space where it really helps to reduce the amount of mixing water and hand watering. (Upstairs, no bathroom, carpet, hobbit sized doorway....) I have been using subcool's Super Soil successfully so far with plain water only, but I want to take it to the next level in terms of flavor (in particular).

2) Options for tackling veg space for a smallish (1-4k watt) grow using beds or pots so large that they can't be moved? There was some talk about it earlier in the thread, but if possible I'd like to explore it further. This is an area critical to maximizing yields, and requires no funky synth inputs :)

My space is about 5x12, with access along the 12' side (3 doors right now).

I have 3k watters now, 2 on flower all the time, one that veg's 2/3 of the time before starting the flower for about 2 weeks. I harvest the 2 lights every 45 days (8-9ish week strains), so the plants have about 45 days under 2k, 15 days under 1k, 30 days under 1k vegging, and about 2-3 weeks before that under T5's rooting and getting started.

Plants are in 7Gal @ 4 per light.

It works well for me so far. In particular I find that having the plants stretch while they are kinda cramped leaves a little extra space after I move them. Not necessarily maximizing; however, I don't have much larf.

I get about 8 cycles per year (16 1k watt light turns-ish per year) on this funky cycle. If I am going to veg in the beds which fill a whole 4'x4' area obviously this will have go down (worth it for better buds!). The best I can come up with for 3k in a 4x12 is about 75% of that, albeit with increased light for veg (perhaps dim the light for part of veg?).

Going to try "Mainling" too... Gotta lover free collected wisdom.

Random Thought- In my experience so far, rent costs often exceed power, power exceeds dirt/nutes/etc (other consumables). By figuring out how to best use our space we can make the biggest difference in our yield for a given amount of effort (money, since you have to earn it...) Another way to look at it; maximize everything else before increasing how much space you use.

Thanks to everyone and I look forward to your comments and conversation.
 

PeaceLoveCannabis

Well-Known Member
Cann that cola is huge, do you have a dry weight on it? Also for barley seed tea after you get roots sprouting out of the seed, that's when you get new clean water and soak them for 12 - 24 hours..Correct?
The reason I ask is because i must have done something wrong. I made the barley tea however my plants didn't respond like i have been told they would. Don't get me wrong they look great to me, they just did not "Pray"
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
no dry weight yet...soon

for the SST...i usually soak for 12 hrs or so, drain, then rinse every 12 hrs until the seeds start to have a tap root. once the tap root is 1/4-1/2 inch long, i fill the jar with water and bubble for 36-48 hrs. that should produce a decent praying effect (although it is always amplified if you use the SST in conjunction with aloe or coconut h2o)

maybe try out this method (it's the new and improved SST recipe from cootz):

"Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0

Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.

This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:

Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.

Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.

Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too unlikely.

Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.

Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.

Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.

When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.

Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.

Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.

This is definitely the way to use Barley and other seeds...
"
 

PeaceLoveCannabis

Well-Known Member
I will try out this method. These are my SFV OG kush clones, rite before lights out.. I think sfv og kush is kinda boring, It yeilds low, and its stretchy. I am thinking of trying something new soon, well after this 4 month cycle. Oh and the metal poles, are for a screen i am building to combat the height of this plant.

SAM_0220.jpgSAM_0216.jpg
 

jaydub13

Well-Known Member
The sugar in malted barley powder is maltose. Maltose is the food source for the barley as it sprouts. Maltose is essentially two molecules of glucose formed by an ionic bond. Glucose is also the sugar produced by the plant during photosynthesis.

Brown rice syrup is comprised mostly of glucose and maltose, and serves the same purpose as the barley powder. Glucose has the highest uptake rate by mycorrhiza and plants.

Hope that doesn't sound negating to the OP, but in my opinion it is the best sugar additive you can add to a feeding schedule!

Dub
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
in terms of sugar, yes...in terms of enzymes, no. barley has a much higher diastatic power than brown rice. but definitely noted as far as sugar goes, thanks :)
 

jaydub13

Well-Known Member
I missed that on my first read thru that your purpose was enzymes, I glanced and assumed. But thank you for the info also, interesting stuff!
 
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