Roseman and purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics
- Thread starter purpdaddy
- Start date
budbulldog
Active Member
great job purpdaddy. i have sampled the writings of the guys you mention, and you gathering their work together is awesome!
big time saver, and yes it should be stickied. i have learned to post but that's about it so far. still trying to learn the other tools here for pics, etc. i'm starting a grow, my first and i want to get it as right as i can.
i would like to mention one exception i believe in. for noobs like me, it's a good idea to get some practice at every stage if possible.
i reccomend that one practice a bit at germinating b4 puting big bucks into the crosshairs. i've killed many seedlings, because i just didn't have any knowledge or experience. God created bagseed for a reason - people like me. now - thanks to u, drbudgreengenes, roseman, major tom, bluey and many others i can't remember right now - i think i'm ready to take a shot. keep up the good work, and thanks.
big time saver, and yes it should be stickied. i have learned to post but that's about it so far. still trying to learn the other tools here for pics, etc. i'm starting a grow, my first and i want to get it as right as i can.
i would like to mention one exception i believe in. for noobs like me, it's a good idea to get some practice at every stage if possible.
i reccomend that one practice a bit at germinating b4 puting big bucks into the crosshairs. i've killed many seedlings, because i just didn't have any knowledge or experience. God created bagseed for a reason - people like me. now - thanks to u, drbudgreengenes, roseman, major tom, bluey and many others i can't remember right now - i think i'm ready to take a shot. keep up the good work, and thanks.
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
Use the damp paper towel method to germ seeds.i got a 99 % germ rate using this method.
ijustgrowGREEN
Well-Known Member
well, i drained out the SH system, cut all rotten brown roots off around rockwool cube, and planted entire cube and small plant in soil. i could not get ph under control and the plant was slowly dying. i'd get the ph in range, and an hour later, it'd be back up to 7.2. i'm going to find different water sources until i find one that i can manage, even if i have to buy the water. sucks, but i didnt have a choice.... as of now, SH system ain't workin for me. 
budbulldog
Active Member
germ i can do, tho i'm still trying things to keep learning. my problem is they never grow up. that's why i wanta do bubbles cuz i think it's as close as anything to fool proof when done right. i just have to get babies to grow enough to get them started in the bubble bath. now that i have learned so much from y'all i might get over that hump.
at least i finally figured out how to put my link in my sig so ppl can find my journal.
it's not much yet, but it's sprouted. thnx again.
Thrasher645
Well-Known Member
Hey whats going on everybody,
Hey Im about to grow some clones in my SH bubbleponics system. How would get the clones started? like full nutes? or like 1/2,1/4 nutes? Should I start it as if it were a regular plant growing from seeds, just starting off differently cus its already matured a lil? what do you guys think? or if any of you grow with clones thatd be awesome for some advice.
peace ya'll !!
Hey Im about to grow some clones in my SH bubbleponics system. How would get the clones started? like full nutes? or like 1/2,1/4 nutes? Should I start it as if it were a regular plant growing from seeds, just starting off differently cus its already matured a lil? what do you guys think? or if any of you grow with clones thatd be awesome for some advice.
peace ya'll !!
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
start with a 1/4 strength nutes for atleast first 2 weeks or until they root and then follow a normal feeding schedule.
warlock22
Active Member
Hey purpdaddy and roseman.....Purpdaddy, you have been helping me on foxmans thread a couple times. I found this one and figured I would start writing you on your thread instead of someone elses. Anywho, I I am going to get my bubbleponics system here inthe next couple days. I have four plants ranging from 2 1/2 tall to 4'' tall, no complete leaves yet. They are in a potting soil mix. My friend is a firm believer in soil, not so much with hydro., so my question is, what is the best way to tranplant from soil into my bp system? And How do I put pis on my replys? Pics. might give you a btter understanding of what I have going.....
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
ive triedgoing from soil to hydro and they just died,so i cant answere that one,maybe roseman can i know NOTHING about soil im not even gonna lie.
to post pics.. click on advanced button next to submit,another window will pop up saying "manage attatchments" if the pics are on ur cpu,click browse and locate them on your cpu and upload,
if they on a URL.just copy and paste the URL where it says url in the same window and upload,!We wanna see sum pics too!!
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
HOW TO POST A PIC:
This was posted by
Wikidbchofthewst and I saved it.
Credit goes to Wikidbchofthewst
I'm making this post after reading a "how do I start a new thread?" question for the millionth time. I kinda meant it as a joke, but who knows, maybe it'll help someone.
Ok, so, starting at the RIU homepage....
Pick the forum that your thread should go in. We're picking Newbie Central.
Click the New Thread button at the top left.
Screw it, while I'm at it I'll cover how to post pics, lol. Either click the Manage Attachments button, or if you have the photos on the web like photobucket, just post the link between the "
" tags in your post. These pics will show up IN the post, like the example pics I'm using.
When you click the Manage Attachments button, a new window like this should come up. You can either upload the pics from your computer, or you can upload them from a URL. These pics will appear as thumbnails at the buttom of your post that people can click on to enlarge.
Once you're done you can Preview Post to make sure it looks right. Then Submit New Thread and let's smoke!
This was posted by
Wikidbchofthewst and I saved it.
Credit goes to Wikidbchofthewst
This was posted by
Wikidbchofthewst and I saved it.
Credit goes to Wikidbchofthewst
I'm making this post after reading a "how do I start a new thread?" question for the millionth time. I kinda meant it as a joke, but who knows, maybe it'll help someone.
Ok, so, starting at the RIU homepage....
Pick the forum that your thread should go in. We're picking Newbie Central.
Click the New Thread button at the top left.
Screw it, while I'm at it I'll cover how to post pics, lol. Either click the Manage Attachments button, or if you have the photos on the web like photobucket, just post the link between the "
When you click the Manage Attachments button, a new window like this should come up. You can either upload the pics from your computer, or you can upload them from a URL. These pics will appear as thumbnails at the buttom of your post that people can click on to enlarge.
Once you're done you can Preview Post to make sure it looks right. Then Submit New Thread and let's smoke!
This was posted by
Wikidbchofthewst and I saved it.
Credit goes to Wikidbchofthewst
warlock22
Active Member
Hopefully mine won't die. I have been told to put them in water to remov the soil and then soak them in a rooting solution before putting them into my hydro. I don't see why I cant just clean them and put them in the bp system???
Okay so here are some pics. There is one of my homemade carbon filter on the side of my cab. A pic. of the insie of the cab. A pic of the cab. in my closet. The cabinet was a gun cabinet that I made in high school. I decided to put it to a better use......
Attachments
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tips include: [/FONT]
GROW TIPS FOR HYDROPONICS [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 1 - Treat Your Plants to Tea Time - The British love their tea. Guess what? So
do plants. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tea for plants is produced from organic materials that provide macro, micro and
submicro elements. Depending on the organic materials used, the teas often contain
such compounds as sugars, amino acids, humates, naturally occurring growth
promoters, enzymes and vitamins. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]A quality organic tea provides important building blocks that help resist disease and
insect infestation. Some of the best teas were developed by the Japanese centuries ago
and require fermentation over a long period of time. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]These bio-active nutrient teas can be diluted and applied to the root zone for increased
plant health and vigor. At higher concentrations, quality aerobic plant teas can be
sprayed onto the foliage until flowers and fruits begin to form. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]When teas are applied in the manner described above, you should notice an increase in
crop growth rates, fewer problems with disease such as powdery mildew, and greater
resistance to common crop insects including spidermites. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 2 - Consider the liquid diet your plants must live on - Think how it would be if
you were forced to live on a strictly liquid diet. Just water and digestible liquid foods to
keep you healthy. Because you are dependent on these liquids for life, you'll probably
demand the best. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Guess what? That's exactly the situation your hydroponic plants face every day. Without
soil, they are totally dependent on the nutrients and water you provide. Skimp on either
and your plants suffer. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Obviously, quality nutrients are essential. But what about water? Often growers don't
give this essential ingredient a second thought. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]You want to use the best quality water you can obtain. At the very least, it should be
filtered. But the best and purest water for hydroponics is obtained from a Reverse
Osmosis system. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 3 - Practice the Habits of Mr. Clean - Clean Grow Rooms invite healthy
harvests. Develop the habit of giving any growing area a clean sweep with your eyes.
Too often problem areas can develop unnoticed unless you take a few moments to
really look for them. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Pay particular attention to severely damaged foliage and remove it immediately. Left to
wither and die, these damaged leaves will attract both disease and insects. Also, during
your 'clean-sweep' inspection, look for fallen leaves decaying on the base of your
growing media, flood tables, floor or other places. Remember, dust, dirt and debris on
the grow room floor can harbor insects and their eggs. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]It takes only two or three minutes to walk around a growing area with your mind focused
on dirt build-up, decaying vegetation, damaged plants and other unsanitary conditions.
Cleaning them up can be done quickly. Ignoring them can cost you extra hours and
money spent battling disease, insects or having to replant a crop. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]You might also consider spraying a high quality pyrethrin based insecticidal spray on
floor areas surrounding plants. Just keep the spray away from the plants. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]By doing this, you'll be setting up a kill zone. This tends to eliminate insects before they
can become a problem. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 4 - Confused about Nutrients??? - With so many different hydroponic products
available, it's easy to get confused about what, when and how much. It helps if you
remember that, generally speaking, there are just two types of hydroponic nutrients. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]There is a 'grow mix' which is used for young plants... plants in vegetative growth... and
plants which do not flower or produce blooms or fruit. Then there is a 'bloom mix' used
to stimulate flowering and fruiting. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]And here's an extra tip. A new advance in nutritional science eliminates concerns about
selecting and using the right products. As an extra bonus, it also eliminates the need
for measuring pH and ppm. Ask your favorite hydroponics retailer about this new
feeding system. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 5 - Stuck with Hard Water? - Do you have no choice but to use hard water? If [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]so, look for 'hard water' nutrients. They are formulated with fewer of the minerals, such
as bicarbonates, normally found in hard water. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]As mentioned in an earlier article, you want to use the best water you can obtain. But
sometimes there is no avoiding tap water. If this is the case, do what you can to make
the water more suitable for improved hydroponics. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Another alternative is to use quality organic mediums and 100% organic nutrients.
Remember, unlike growing in soil, there is nothing to buffer nutrients and imbalances
that may be caused by hard water. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Organic products tend to allow beneficial nutrients to be delivered while holding less
desirable nutrients or excess imbalances away from the plants. This will produce bigger
yields that might otherwise be diminished by poor quality water. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]-----------------
Do you have a hydroponics tip you'd like to share with
others? Send it to [email protected]. If we use
your tip in a future issue of Grow Tips, we will send you a
$50 certificate you can use on the purchase of any Advanced
Nutrients products.[/FONT]
- [FONT=arial, verdana]
[*]Treat Your Plants to Tea Time
[*]What Kind of Liquid Diet are Your Plants On?
[*]Act Like Mr. Clean
[*]Stop the Nutrient Confusion
[*]Eliminate the Hard Water Blues [/FONT]
GROW TIPS FOR HYDROPONICS [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 1 - Treat Your Plants to Tea Time - The British love their tea. Guess what? So
do plants. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tea for plants is produced from organic materials that provide macro, micro and
submicro elements. Depending on the organic materials used, the teas often contain
such compounds as sugars, amino acids, humates, naturally occurring growth
promoters, enzymes and vitamins. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]A quality organic tea provides important building blocks that help resist disease and
insect infestation. Some of the best teas were developed by the Japanese centuries ago
and require fermentation over a long period of time. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]These bio-active nutrient teas can be diluted and applied to the root zone for increased
plant health and vigor. At higher concentrations, quality aerobic plant teas can be
sprayed onto the foliage until flowers and fruits begin to form. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]When teas are applied in the manner described above, you should notice an increase in
crop growth rates, fewer problems with disease such as powdery mildew, and greater
resistance to common crop insects including spidermites. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 2 - Consider the liquid diet your plants must live on - Think how it would be if
you were forced to live on a strictly liquid diet. Just water and digestible liquid foods to
keep you healthy. Because you are dependent on these liquids for life, you'll probably
demand the best. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Guess what? That's exactly the situation your hydroponic plants face every day. Without
soil, they are totally dependent on the nutrients and water you provide. Skimp on either
and your plants suffer. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Obviously, quality nutrients are essential. But what about water? Often growers don't
give this essential ingredient a second thought. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]You want to use the best quality water you can obtain. At the very least, it should be
filtered. But the best and purest water for hydroponics is obtained from a Reverse
Osmosis system. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 3 - Practice the Habits of Mr. Clean - Clean Grow Rooms invite healthy
harvests. Develop the habit of giving any growing area a clean sweep with your eyes.
Too often problem areas can develop unnoticed unless you take a few moments to
really look for them. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Pay particular attention to severely damaged foliage and remove it immediately. Left to
wither and die, these damaged leaves will attract both disease and insects. Also, during
your 'clean-sweep' inspection, look for fallen leaves decaying on the base of your
growing media, flood tables, floor or other places. Remember, dust, dirt and debris on
the grow room floor can harbor insects and their eggs. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]It takes only two or three minutes to walk around a growing area with your mind focused
on dirt build-up, decaying vegetation, damaged plants and other unsanitary conditions.
Cleaning them up can be done quickly. Ignoring them can cost you extra hours and
money spent battling disease, insects or having to replant a crop. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]You might also consider spraying a high quality pyrethrin based insecticidal spray on
floor areas surrounding plants. Just keep the spray away from the plants. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]By doing this, you'll be setting up a kill zone. This tends to eliminate insects before they
can become a problem. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 4 - Confused about Nutrients??? - With so many different hydroponic products
available, it's easy to get confused about what, when and how much. It helps if you
remember that, generally speaking, there are just two types of hydroponic nutrients. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]There is a 'grow mix' which is used for young plants... plants in vegetative growth... and
plants which do not flower or produce blooms or fruit. Then there is a 'bloom mix' used
to stimulate flowering and fruiting. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]And here's an extra tip. A new advance in nutritional science eliminates concerns about
selecting and using the right products. As an extra bonus, it also eliminates the need
for measuring pH and ppm. Ask your favorite hydroponics retailer about this new
feeding system. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Tip # 5 - Stuck with Hard Water? - Do you have no choice but to use hard water? If [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]so, look for 'hard water' nutrients. They are formulated with fewer of the minerals, such
as bicarbonates, normally found in hard water. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]As mentioned in an earlier article, you want to use the best water you can obtain. But
sometimes there is no avoiding tap water. If this is the case, do what you can to make
the water more suitable for improved hydroponics. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Another alternative is to use quality organic mediums and 100% organic nutrients.
Remember, unlike growing in soil, there is nothing to buffer nutrients and imbalances
that may be caused by hard water. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]Organic products tend to allow beneficial nutrients to be delivered while holding less
desirable nutrients or excess imbalances away from the plants. This will produce bigger
yields that might otherwise be diminished by poor quality water. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, verdana]-----------------
Do you have a hydroponics tip you'd like to share with
others? Send it to [email protected]. If we use
your tip in a future issue of Grow Tips, we will send you a
$50 certificate you can use on the purchase of any Advanced
Nutrients products.[/FONT]
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
Nutrient Disorders
Nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.
Nutrients
Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro-nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients. The above nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.
*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution
Nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.
Nutrients
Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro-nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients. The above nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.
*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I've done that a couple of times earlier in my grow career. Easy work really. First prepare your BP system, working water lines to all pots, loaded with 1/4 strength nutes and fill the net cups about 1/3 full with hydrotron. Then clean off the root system well on the plants potted in soil. Be gentle. Lay the roots on top of the 1/3rd filled net pots and gently top with additional hydrotron keeping plant centered and ending up with it well supported. You may get a little skock but it's only for a day or two. Different type of roots for water submersion that those needed for soil and it takes the plant that long to adjust. Keep the lights up high while doing this. It doesn't need that kind of power until it gets set in it's new home. Good luck!
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I didn't do it but it certainly can't hurt. Why didn't I thnk of that then? Oh yeah, I was a new grower too and hadn't found this thread! Any cloning gel should work if you have trouble getting Clonex. Super thrive works for that also. Not the same thing but the same idea of giving the roots a little extra to work with.
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
oh yea man pretty much any rooting stimulator/root harmone (the dip,spray,gel) will all work.Cloning is not as hard as it seems.i got a clone to root my first time cloning,when i got that stalk rot shit and they fell,so i cloned em.
warlock22
Active Member
Hey thanks guys, much appreciated. We have a Hydro store here in town so Ill run and get sum clone shit...Another question, I have heard that I do not need to run my water pump in my bp system all of the time, Is this a good idea or should I run it alll the time?
purpdaddy
Well-Known Member
it all depends on what u wanna do.The pump can be completely taken out once the roots hit water,but saturate the RW by putting the feeder tubes right next to it and keep it wet,The pump in the BP can make the Ph fluctuate,but not a prob, i like to leave mine in personally.but after a while roots start growing into the feeder tubes and clogs em up,so thats why we suggest removing the feeder hub and keep the pump running to keep the nutes flowing and you can drain the tub with the pump also.so there are many things that you can do to make the BP work excellently!I bought a roll of the tubing at petssmart and im just gonna change em out when they get clogged,no biggie,better than diggind g all that shit out and i want my pump on 24/7 personally.Thats my opinion from past EXPERIENCEHey thanks guys, much appreciated. We have a Hydro store here in town so Ill run and get sum clone shit...Another question, I have heard that I do not need to run my water pump in my bp system all of the time, Is this a good idea or should I run it alll the time?
warlock22
Active Member
I like the idea of leaving it on 24/7, do you ever run into overwatering or your tub temp. getting to high from the pump?