Sending my compost and worm castings to a lab...

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
hah, don't sweat it man, I AM a jackass, in fact that's a polite way to call it.
don't you have finished compost without manure? or no?
just basic leaves/ grass compost?
 

rikdabrick

Well-Known Member
My first couple soil tests I sent to the ag. extension office at the University of Hawaii and it took about 3 weeks to get the tests done and it wasn't what I would consider cheap. Now I send them to Spectrum Analytics in Ohio. They get them done quick and it's about $50 for a total M3 test with AA pH8.2 and silica test. They last test I sent in was done in less than 24 hours granted it was mid to late summer. It could be a couple weeks in the spring I'm sure, but that would translate to a couple months at the U of Hawaii from what I've heard. If you're willing to spend an extra $50 you could send a sample to Spectrum and probably get the results back within a few days of sending your sample off.

I'm going to be sending in a couple more samples here in a couple weeks. I can let you know how it goes if you want.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
don't you have finished compost without manure? or no?
just basic leaves/ grass compost?
I have been recycling the soil and mixing everything into the new compost. So the stuff in the bin has been composted, used, and put into the bin about 2 months ago without adding anything. I could probably just add this aeration and be good, I hope.

All of my soil has been mixed together in the compost, so the sample should be a good representation of the 3-400 gallons that I have.
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
hey now!
it's a compliment to you
you were speaking the equivalent of Cantonese to me
you know I loooooove ya darling
View attachment 3833687
course that gif seems less than genuine, but I just love that movie..
:hug:
Oh quite the contrary, I know nothing of the sort :rolleyes:
And ewww get offa me with that kid - what film is that?

Ok if that is how you meant it, thanks?
But you not being able to understand what I'm saying isn't a good thing to me!
I don't post to be cryptic, but to share my thoughts and learn from the thoughts of others. So it's disheartening when I fail to be understandable. And I do appreciate it when you let me know it was gibberish, it gives me the chance to try again. Hints as to what was unintelligible do help tho!

Thing is, I had a really frustrating week realizing that the cognitive blocks I have are forcing me to put some really nice plans on the back burner. Again.
Then I come on here and realize I want to say something but cannot concentrate for the length of a sentence. It makes me feel like a tiger in a cage, and in an act of rebellion I post anyway, as in, "I NEED to overcome this". And I fail again... haha
Of course you cannot know this :hug:

Feels like everyone is walking on raw eggs in here now :P
Sweet of you, but no need, I'm good, so back to the actually interesting stuff!

I don't get what you guys really mean by "jackass" -- I only know those guys who almost kill themselves with crazy gross challenges and film it?? :shock:
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
calliandra, thank you for all the "Like"s to my post today. I appreciate it.

No offense is meant by my rebuttal to some of your statements. There are some incorrect statements I saw in your post. The Mehlich 3 test tests for all plant available nutrients. Like you mentioned, the "Soluble" tests test for minerals that are available to the plant right now and can be freely absorbed by the plant with out any energy expenditure. The tests that test for "Exchangeable" minerals are ones that are available to the plant with the help of soil microbes and the exchange of hydrogen ions for other mineral ions which are created by CO2 being exuded by the plants roots and soil microbes. And the "Total Extractable" tests are for determining the total amounts of minerals that will be available eventually with no outside additions, which could be hundreds of years. For example if you have small rocks in your soil, all the minerals of those rock are potentially available and would be extracted using a "Total Etractable" test, but ALL the minerals won't be able to be taken up by any plant until the rock has broken down completely which could be a loooong time depending on the climate and the type of rocks. IMO the "Total Extractable" tests have no real value to a grower or farmer since the total extractable minerals will be constantly changing with the addition of soil amendments and some of the minerals will never be available in a healthy soil.

Soil microbes aren't going to be able to transform most minerals from "Extractable" to "Exchangeable". The will transform some, but most minerals will stay in a non-exchangeable form being that the break down of soil minerals can take awhile.

And these tests are not only for inorganic fertilizers. The exchangeable minerals that the Mehlich 3 and AA pH8.2 test for are far more available with soil microbes. Without soil life a plant's absorption of minerals in the soil would be highly limited. Any of the "Soluble" test would be better for testing inorganic fertilizers.

And what do you mean there can be no soil deficiencies except in microorganisms? There most certainly can be mineral deficiencies in soil. I did a soil prescriptions for a couple that live back east recently and they had several minerals in their soil that were virtually non-existent. For example, their phosphorous levels were so low it would take just about 9000 lbs of CalPhos per acre to hit ideal levels of phosphorous for them and they needed something like 1300 lbs of potassium sulfate to hit ideal potassium numbers. There were several other deficiencies, but I can't remember them off the top of my head right now. The soil tests I've run in my area are generally severely low in P, B, Cu and Mn. All of those minerals have huge effects on plants' health. If your soil doesn't have luxury levels of any mineral (in the proper balance) then that mineral that is in deficiency will affect the next the next step of minerals used in the biochemical sequence. The most deficient minerals (in proper balance) or the most toxic ones will be the regulators on the overall health of the plant. In other words, a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.

And a Mehlich 3 test will give a very good indication on excesses or deficiencies of the minerals we generally test for in soil with the exception of Ca and Mg in alkaline soils.

If you or anybody else is interested in some good books on soil science let me know. There's a lot of world class info available on this here web.

My guess is Mustang's soil is too high in potassium and there's a good chance it's too high in magnesium. I'm interested to see the results too.

Anyway, no offense is meant. None of that should be read with a condescending tone in mind.
Oh and none taken!
In fact I thank you for setting me straight on those nutrient pools, indeed I had those down all jumbled - makes much more sense now! :)
Also, I find the chain reaction of nutrients you described fascinating!
And yes please, what books would you recommend for an entry level person?

However, I still contest the "put more on" - belief system that powers inorganic fertilizing. There have been tests done to correlate the amounts of nutrients in the soil with those then found in the plants. None was found!

What does seem to be the case is rather that plants need their nutes in really really tiny amounts at the perfect time, and that the tiny amounts a healthy and well-rounded microherd is able to extract are actually enough. We don't have a complete picture about how that works in detail yet either, but how else could the incredibly complex and diversified vegetation on earth have not only survived but thrived over the eons?

We don't need to have tons of those nutes, in soluble form, in there, we need to have tons of the right microorganisms at the plant's beck and call to provide exactly the nutrient needed in the microsecond it needs it. And we need to provide the conditions (humidity, aeration,...) for those microorganisms to be comfortable. They'll take it from there, just as they always have, before we started fucking things up.

While it is certainly intriguing to explore the chemical details of plant-microbe-soil interactions, chemical "imbalances" will always just be a symptom of what's actually going on. So adding chemicals would be symptom treatment, not actually remedying the cause: depletion of organic matter and microlife.

So yeah, you typically get a certain set of deficiencies in the soils of a determined area, but do you also look at the soil structure, organic content (and no 5% is only "typical" in our times) and microbial life? How does that look? Anyone missing in there who should be processing that Cu, Mn, etc etc?
There is still much to be learned, but from the results being gotten using this approach as opposed to the chemical one, we do already have enough of an idea to go ahead and implement on a wide scale. And we should, and we should quickly. ticktock.
Improved water-retaining and gas absoption ability of the soil. Less erosion. Less floods. Less droughts. Less pest damage. Improved plant health. Improved nutrient value and taste of our food. Improved animal and people health and happiness.
What is there to hate?! :rolleyes:

That said, I really look forward to those test results and what conclusions can be drawn from them, it's very interesting to sit in on this ride, even whilst disagreeing with the implied measures such tests do bring with them :bigjoint:
Cheers!
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
I picked up some perlite today. I will shoot for 40% aeration and see where that gets me. I have a 3'x3'x3' stall that is full of recycled soil, I didnt add anything to it and it had a good amount of worms eating the cardboard cover. I will start with this stuff and not any manure to it this time. I really need to transplant into 3gal pots for vege and they have been doing well with the soil, its the 8gal in flowering that they dont like...

I found out that we are dealing with an extension office to the OSU lab. I think that they have slower return times, damn its like watching water boil. I dont think that I am getting results back anytime soon.

I like to think of myself as a kind hearted jack-ass, I cant call you one without calling myself one... I was referring to your humor anyways.
Did you pick up the D-Lime also? Adding/mixing with the perlite means doing the shovel work just once. Plus, it takes a couple of weeks to actually start working.

Wet
 

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
Did you pick up the D-Lime also? Adding/mixing with the perlite means doing the shovel work just once. Plus, it takes a couple of weeks to actually start working.

Wet
Hope I'm not intruding, I'm a pretty heavy lurker, but @Wetdog, how do you feel about gypsum instead of D-Lime? I use gypsum instead because it doesn't effect my pH, for the sulfur, it's water solubility, and it seems to lighten the soil. But I could be all wrong about all of that, lol!
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Hope I'm not intruding, I'm a pretty heavy lurker, but @Wetdog, how do you feel about gypsum instead of D-Lime? I use gypsum instead because it doesn't effect my pH, for the sulfur, it's water solubility, and it seems to lighten the soil. But I could be all wrong about all of that, lol!
I also use gypsum, but not instead of D-Lime. D-Lime is my buffering agent and is, by me, considered totally seperately from any other amendments, minerals, rock dust, Ca sources, whatever.

It is the second ingredient, after peat moss, added to the wheelbarrow when making a mix. THEN, everything else gets added, with perlite being last along with water to moisten it all.

The "pH doesn't matter in organics" bit is incomplete and BS as is. The whole sentence should be "pH doesn't matter in organics in a well buffered soil" pH matteres quite a bit and you need to get it right for the microbes, et al, to maintain it.

Not buffering your soil sorta screws you from the git go and certainly down the line.

Wet
 

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
I also use gypsum, but not instead of D-Lime. D-Lime is my buffering agent and is, by me, considered totally seperately from any other amendments, minerals, rock dust, Ca sources, whatever.

It is the second ingredient, after peat moss, added to the wheelbarrow when making a mix. THEN, everything else gets added, with perlite being last along with water to moisten it all.

The "pH doesn't matter in organics" bit is incomplete and BS as is. The whole sentence should be "pH doesn't matter in organics in a well buffered soil" pH matteres quite a bit and you need to get it right for the microbes, et al, to maintain it.

Not buffering your soil sorta screws you from the git go and certainly down the line.

Wet
Thanks for the answer! Ditto on what Fastslappy asked. And, do you reuse your soil? When you amend that, what ratio of D-Lime do you work with? I've been guilty of re-amemnding with too much calcium carbonate stuff, and ending up with a high pH... I know, ph matters, lol!
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
@Wetdog what % of each Dlime,gypsum do u use ?
Thanks for the answer! Ditto on what Fastslappy asked. And, do you reuse your soil? When you amend that, what ratio of D-Lime do you work with? I've been guilty of re-amemnding with too much calcium carbonate stuff, and ending up with a high pH... I know, ph matters, lol!
*I* really don't use a %, being way more of an eyeballer and handful of this or that kinda guy.

For fresh mixes I'll use ~ 3 cups of lime in a wheelbarrow full. More than 2cf, but less than 3cf, about 18-19 gallons. Gypsum, if added, would be ~1cup.

I do recycle my soil, but don't always add more lime. That depends on how it feels and especially how it smells. I've done the too much Ca enough to learn my lesson. If I do add any, like if the mix smells a little sour/funky, it will be about 1/2 of what gets added to a fresh mix. The first reamend almost never gets more lime and gypsum is usually top dressed for certain plants. After the second year, yeah, lime is needed. The peat moss is breaking down, the pine bark is breaking down and pH gets down. The smell gets less fresh and the texture, less crumbly and more aeration along with the Ca is added.

I know I'm babbling, but trying to describe feels and smells is beyond my vocabulary. Sorry.

Wet
 

FlakeyFoont

Well-Known Member
*I* really don't use a %, being way more of an eyeballer and handful of this or that kinda guy.

For fresh mixes I'll use ~ 3 cups of lime in a wheelbarrow full. More than 2cf, but less than 3cf, about 18-19 gallons. Gypsum, if added, would be ~1cup.

I do recycle my soil, but don't always add more lime. That depends on how it feels and especially how it smells. I've done the too much Ca enough to learn my lesson. If I do add any, like if the mix smells a little sour/funky, it will be about 1/2 of what gets added to a fresh mix. The first reamend almost never gets more lime and gypsum is usually top dressed for certain plants. After the second year, yeah, lime is needed. The peat moss is breaking down, the pine bark is breaking down and pH gets down. The smell gets less fresh and the texture, less crumbly and more aeration along with the Ca is added.

I know I'm babbling, but trying to describe feels and smells is beyond my vocabulary. Sorry.

Wet
I think I get you, I'll do some feeling and sniffing tomorrow, lol! I use gypsum on everything, seedlings, transplant rooballs, top dressing for everything except late flower. I've been using Aragonite instead of D-Lime. It's freshwater mussel flour, and I can get it cheaply, but it can whack pH. I've come to think that enough of the right available Ca is the most important thing for healthy, and stoneworthy plants, arguably lol! But I need to check out the D-lime some more. Besides buffering, what does it bring over other Ca stuff?
 

Dead Fish

New Member
*I* really don't use a %, being way more of an eyeballer and handful of this or that kinda guy.

For fresh mixes I'll use ~ 3 cups of lime in a wheelbarrow full. More than 2cf, but less than 3cf, about 18-19 gallons. Gypsum, if added, would be ~1cup.

I do recycle my soil, but don't always add more lime. That depends on how it feels and especially how it smells. I've done the too much Ca enough to learn my lesson. If I do add any, like if the mix smells a little sour/funky, it will be about 1/2 of what gets added to a fresh mix. The first reamend almost never gets more lime and gypsum is usually top dressed for certain plants. After the second year, yeah, lime is needed. The peat moss is breaking down, the pine bark is breaking down and pH gets down. The smell gets less fresh and the texture, less crumbly and more aeration along with the Ca is added.

I know I'm babbling, but trying to describe feels and smells is beyond my vocabulary. Sorry.

Wet
Good, descriptive information sir. Also glad to hear dolomite lime isn't totally forbidden around these parts anymore. I'm curious, what does a basic Wetdog soil recipe look like?

And great thread here Mustang!! Lots of quality dialogue that you initiated. I look forward to seeing those test results.
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Good, descriptive information sir. Also glad to hear dolomite lime isn't totally forbidden around these parts anymore. I'm curious, what does a basic Wetdog soil recipe look like?

And great thread here Mustang!! Lots of quality dialogue that you initiated. I look forward to seeing those test results.
hey hi and welcome ;) sounds like you've been here once before?
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I don't get what you guys really mean by "jackass" -- I only know those guys who almost kill themselves with crazy gross challenges and film it??
jackass
/ˈdʒækˌæs/
noun
1.
a male donkey
2.
a stupid person; fool
3.
laughing jackass, another name for kookaburra


My wife said that we are probably more like an asshole anyways...

Asshole:
someone being arrogant, rude, obnoxious, or just a total dickhead....
Sean is the biggest fucking asshole I've ever met in my life!
 
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