Smells Like Hay
- Thread starter lpoolfc08
- Start date
Its fine and normal. As they cure and release chlorophyll the unique qualities will come out.
gangjababy
Well-Known Member
yup, check out the posts at the bottom of the page, it happens all the time
taffo143
New Member
yes it is normal, some strains stay like that2, others smell increases in sweetness as the cure goes on, i recently cured some brainstorm that smelt like hay, i automaticaly thaught it was gunna be shit but it smoked lovely and blew my head off, so smell isnt everything, althaugh u canr beat a strong sweet smelling bud, peace fella.
taffo143
New Member
yes it is totaly normal, wilst in the jars because they are airtight its drawing all the moisture from the centre of the bud the the outer parts, thats the whole point of curing in jars or plastic bags, its called sweating!!!!!! u be ok. make sure u cure for at least a week, the longer u cure the better it will taste and smoke.
notyourkind
Well-Known Member
I am at the same stage right now. I have only grown three times, and all three times the buds smelled like the "hay-vegey" type smell. The high is good but the smell is unremarkable. I bought a humidifier this time and am going to stretch the total drying upside-down part to 8 or 9 days, if I can. Then try and do a near perfect cure in jars for 3-4weeks.
If i dont get some good smelly shit this time, I am going to sue everyone in Amsterdam. Im not fucking kidding - I am going to get a lawyer and sue them all!
I always remember smelly pot being light years better than commercial "hay" smelling pot. Is it really all in the cure? I am starting think its all bullshit. My friend grew out some NYC Diesel from THSeeds or Serious Seeds, and his smelled like good chron even before it cured. I dunno - if this doesnt smell I am going to go to Amsterdam and shove this scentless bud up their King's ass (do they have a king?). Anyways, I figured I could get about 15 million out of em...
Good luck with your curing.
-NYK
If i dont get some good smelly shit this time, I am going to sue everyone in Amsterdam. Im not fucking kidding - I am going to get a lawyer and sue them all!
I always remember smelly pot being light years better than commercial "hay" smelling pot. Is it really all in the cure? I am starting think its all bullshit. My friend grew out some NYC Diesel from THSeeds or Serious Seeds, and his smelled like good chron even before it cured. I dunno - if this doesnt smell I am going to go to Amsterdam and shove this scentless bud up their King's ass (do they have a king?). Anyways, I figured I could get about 15 million out of em...
Good luck with your curing.
-NYK
Brick Top
New Member
This is just like déjà vu all over again.
You need to cure your harvest.
Learn it, live it, love it.
Marijuana
Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana
Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.
Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.
When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves.
The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.
Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.
When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).
Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.
If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.
Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.
Drying Marijuana After Harvest
You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.
Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.
The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.
A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.
A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.
You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.
At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.
At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.
Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature.
Some hygrometers
have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.
Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.
A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.
Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.
Curing Marijuana
It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.
At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.
The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).
To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.
Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.
When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes
are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.
Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.
You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.
You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).
The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.
If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.
Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).
If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.
Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.
Always make sure too properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.
The end.
You need to cure your harvest.
Learn it, live it, love it.
Marijuana
Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana
Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.
Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.
When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves.
The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.
Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.
When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).
Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.
If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.
Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.
Drying Marijuana After Harvest
You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.
Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.
The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.
A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.
A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.
You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.
At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.
At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.
Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature.
Some hygrometers
Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.
A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.
Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.
Curing Marijuana
It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.
At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.
The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).
To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.
Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.
When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes
Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.
You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.
You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).
The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.
If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.
Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).
If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.
Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.
Always make sure too properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.
The end.
Calijuana
Well-Known Member
you could always go after arjan.. watch out for his sidekick franco though, he may see you going for his ass and bombard you in immature seeds.
SweatyC
Active Member
Lol, this reminds of this time when my buddy sold this kid some hay and told him it was the dank shit....which was kind of ironic, because he actually mashed it up with horse shit! (Yeah, it was pretty messed and we were some little punks back then) But the worst part was the kid smoked the whole thing!!! I shit you not! (No pun intended) He actually came back and picked up another sack of it! My buddy made $50 off of two bags of horse shit!
notyourkind
Well-Known Member
Thats funny, I ordered from them last grow and got some pale colored little tiny seeds. They sprouted into little weak seedlings and were way behind the others. Nevilles Haze...supposedly.
notyourkind
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bricktop. I actually read one of your prior replys that had a link to this (which I plan on following to a "T"). It was to some guy who got upset because you mentioned your 37 years of growing experience.
Thanks for the idea, I had no clue before I read that.
-NYK
Brick Top
New Member
I have had very good luck with Green House Seeds genetics in the past and right now I am sitting on some Nevilles Haze seeds and they are as you described, smallish and greenish, so I do wonder if they will be slow growers like yours were.
One thing I will say though that made me not wonder all that much about them initially is that in my experience it is not uncommon for seeds from a sativa or predominantly sativa strain, like Nevilles Haze is, to be smaller than seeds from an indica or a predominantly indica cross.
But then I never had what I would call really tremendous luck with greenish seeds, they seem to at the least start slow for me often times, so that did make me wonder somewhat.
But only time will tell. If they turn out as well as other Green House Seeds genetics have for me I will be very pleased.
ozgrower90
Well-Known Member
your buds smell like Horse Shit, hehehe what the fuck have u been feeding your plants
lpoolfc08
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, i actually forgot i had posted this from last night because i had been smoking that horse shit smelling weed i have grown.
I shit you not though it wipes you out lol.
I have just been sorting that shit out aswell.
Anyway i have decided to take out of the jars for the night and do a little bit more drying, for a day, then back in the jars. Seemed still a bit damp.
What do you say ???
I shit you not though it wipes you out lol.
I have just been sorting that shit out aswell.
Anyway i have decided to take out of the jars for the night and do a little bit more drying, for a day, then back in the jars. Seemed still a bit damp.
What do you say ???
notyourkind
Well-Known Member
Lpool - My "horse-shit" buds are starting to smell pretty good now. After curing a sample in a jar for 10 days it has begun to smell like real chronic. It already gets me high like chronic though...
Does yours smell good when you crush a dried piece in your fingertips yet? I heard that the more it smells like horse turds in the begining - that it means the plant had thick leaves when it was alive. All that decaying chlorophyl humidity trying to escape the drying bud is overpowering the chronic smell. So I understand when you use "horse shit" to describe the smell of your buds. Since horses eat semi-dried hay all day. I have read 100 posts regarding smell and have come to the conclusion that curing is the way to go. I am thick headed so I cant just take anyones word for anything, because I think most people are full of shit - I have to employ the whole "trial and error" method to things like this....
Anyway, it is working.
Does yours smell good when you crush a dried piece in your fingertips yet? I heard that the more it smells like horse turds in the begining - that it means the plant had thick leaves when it was alive. All that decaying chlorophyl humidity trying to escape the drying bud is overpowering the chronic smell. So I understand when you use "horse shit" to describe the smell of your buds. Since horses eat semi-dried hay all day. I have read 100 posts regarding smell and have come to the conclusion that curing is the way to go. I am thick headed so I cant just take anyones word for anything, because I think most people are full of shit - I have to employ the whole "trial and error" method to things like this....
Anyway, it is working.
scotts a buzzn
Active Member
Most of the ttime when your bud smells like hay it's because it was dried too quickly or in very low humidity and warmer temps! Just my 2 cents!