Cheap meters, especially the kind with the prongs that is supposed to be for moisture\light\pH, probably aren't very accurate.
I do soil (organic) and don't obsess over pH. I don't use any liquid pH adjusters whatsoever. Dolomite lime and powdered eggshell go into the soil at roughly 2 tbsp per gallon. Most of the nutrients are already in the soil and additional fertilizer isn't usually required or is applied sparingly. Although the Earth Juice I sometimes use makes the fertigation solution quite acidic (pH ~4) even at low rates, I still don't use any pH up and don't need to. Otherwise all that is applied is rain-water with blackstrap molasses (still acidic) and actively aerated compost tea which is usually about neutral upon application. Not checking the soil pH and doing away with pH up hasn't hurt the plants any. In fact I probably had more issues way back when I did think adding pH up to everything was important.
With a properly amended, living soil the pH is adjusted automatically by the microbes and the plant itself. Fussing with pH is more a hydro thing. Healthy living soil doesn't have to be exactly at 6.5 or 6.8 or whatever. Really anywhere from slightly over 6 to slightly over 7 is just fine. Various things in the rhizosphere allow plants to uptake nutrients even when pH is a bit too low or too high... you've got organic acids and humates (humic\fulvic acids) present in compost\humus\earthworm castings and produced by microbes within to naturally chelate nutrients, microbes in the rhizosphere producing bio-slime which affects pH right where nutrients are absorbed, mycorrhizal fungi actively searching for nutrients, making them available and bringing them to the plant, nitrogen fixing bacteria making plant available nitrogen from the atmosphere which prefer a pH over 7.... a lot is going on there.
