green livin
Well-Known Member
ok im in too this is for any soil grow right???
~ Starting of New Group - RIU Soil/Organic Growers Guild!!
- Thread starter KushCanuck
- Start date
KushCanuck
Well-Known Member
I will get run-offs with pH of 5.8 - 6.1 with a regular flush. I water with 6.0 pH water, so a higher level means more excess in the soil is being flushed, lower means you're keeping your pH under control. Too low however, and you're not optimizing your nutrient schedule. Cheers
KC
GrowKindNugs
Well-Known Member
hey KC, do you know alot bout outdoor growing?? i got some questions bout starting them indoors then goin outside.. thanksI will get run-offs with pH of 5.8 - 6.1 with a regular flush. I water with 6.0 pH water, so a higher level means more excess in the soil is being flushed, lower means you're keeping your pH under control. Too low however, and you're not optimizing your nutrient schedule. Cheers
KC
vic1939
Active Member
I have pics now ( Still having problems uploading them). The ones you see in the pics are my original soil mixture (posted earlier). They are starting 3 weeks now. I'm going to start some with the new mix soon. I don't have exactp ercentages yet, but the new soil mix is:
4- cups Miracle Grow potting mix
2- cups Miracle Grow cactus mix
2- cups Organic peat
4- cups Perlite
2- cuups Vermiculite
2- cups Bat guano
2- cups Worm castings
2- Tbs Bone meal
2- Tbs Blood meal
I tested the Soil PH and it's 6.3. Chicago (Lake Michigan) water has a PH of 7.8. That's quite high so I lowered the PH to about 6.2. Also I let the water sit for 48 Hrs. to get the chlorine down. This is going to be an experiment to see how each group looks in another 3 weeks.
4- cups Miracle Grow potting mix
2- cups Miracle Grow cactus mix
2- cups Organic peat
4- cups Perlite
2- cuups Vermiculite
2- cups Bat guano
2- cups Worm castings
2- Tbs Bone meal
2- Tbs Blood meal
I tested the Soil PH and it's 6.3. Chicago (Lake Michigan) water has a PH of 7.8. That's quite high so I lowered the PH to about 6.2. Also I let the water sit for 48 Hrs. to get the chlorine down. This is going to be an experiment to see how each group looks in another 3 weeks.
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
mine is always a lil high i water with 6.0 and it comes out 6.5 i remember sumone explaining the whole runoff thing and how many points it raises vs the water put in but that was a year ago and dnt quite remember but runoff really isnt the best way to get a accurate reading a soil test would be best for an acurat mesurment. my soil is 6.8 or 9 and when watered with 6.o runoff is 6.5 thats all i got for ya srry
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
i could be wrong but with organics you dnt get a huge salt buildup like with chems, i rarely flush at all.. i flush when switching to flower and a week or 2 b4 harvest but even that may not be necissary. moleasses is one of those never ending arguments i feel that there is no use for it unless your soil is alive with microbs and such to break it down as the sugars are too complex for the plant too use. dried molasses in the compost or outdoor garden is great because it feeds all the microorganisms that are in there im not sure how active soil in a pot is i imagin its not as active.
haze2
Well-Known Member
Im not sure and I guess thats why Im a little concerned. My Power Skunks have over a week or more started to pop up yellow leaves. About that week ago I had a major problem PHing some water and I fed knowing I should not have. My ph yesterday in the soil was from what the meter told me was about 8 I know thats high, now Im wondering if the high ph locked out my nitrogen cause no matter if I up the dosage the plants seem that they arent recieving the N. Can a ph of 8 in the soil lock out the NITROGEN?
jahtrip
Well-Known Member
haze2... your ph at 8 cannot block out the N Completely... its just gonna retain the plant from using as much as it could or should...
Also leafs with an N deficiencies dont recover so your leafs arent gonna get back to green..... No matter how much N you give it...
Try feeding with with your growth fert. maybe up the dose of that...
I have come across ferts that actually tell you to not modify the ph when making your water mix...; and when you check the ph .. its at 7 or above.... Like Plagron's line of products.... Alga grow and alga bloom; you can put all the ph - you want it just wont go down....
so i dont think your 8 ph is locking out the N .. just reducing the plants uptake of it...
take is easy
Also leafs with an N deficiencies dont recover so your leafs arent gonna get back to green..... No matter how much N you give it...
Try feeding with with your growth fert. maybe up the dose of that...
I have come across ferts that actually tell you to not modify the ph when making your water mix...; and when you check the ph .. its at 7 or above.... Like Plagron's line of products.... Alga grow and alga bloom; you can put all the ph - you want it just wont go down....
so i dont think your 8 ph is locking out the N .. just reducing the plants uptake of it...
take is easy
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
true on locking out n but your gonna have zinc and mg and iron locked out at a high ph, results in uper leaves yellowing and tops will be small
adding fertilizer is no way to fix a ph problem. fix the problem or you will give your plant an overdosehaze2... your ph at 8 cannot block out the N Completely... its just gonna retain the plant from using as much as it could or should...
Also leafs with an N deficiencies dont recover so your leafs arent gonna get back to green..... No matter how much N you give it...
Try feeding with with your growth fert. maybe up the dose of that...
I have come across ferts that actually tell you to not modify the ph when making your water mix...; and when you check the ph .. its at 7 or above.... Like Plagron's line of products.... Alga grow and alga bloom; you can put all the ph - you want it just wont go down....
so i dont think your 8 ph is locking out the N .. just reducing the plants uptake of it...
take is easy
what stage growth are you in how big is the plant and what are the lighting conditions, moisture
jahtrip
Well-Known Member
so how do you suggest he do that... if he doesnt fertilize the plant will have nothing to uptake..... he can bring the ph back down gradually.... if you fertilize with your growth fert and bring its ph down real low it will correct the soils ph in about a week..... rather than flushing.... and giving the plants nothing till the ph is back to normal...
Id rather think my plant is gonna be fed and stabilize the ph gradually rather than not feeding, getting more deficiencies and then trying to fix the problem.... damaged leaves dont heal....
so prevent the others from gettting worst as your fixing your ph problem ...
but hey everyone has there way of solving there problems... i just thought id tell you what i think..
Im not a scott blakey or an ed rosenthal... but My grows have been pretty spotless till now.. aside from some mite problems a while back....
You clearly do have a ph problem... now there are a few ways to go about it...
if you had a stomach bug... would you just not eat till it gets better and take meds... or take meds, and eat till you get better...
Not fertilizing your plant is like starving it (on the long run) .. i dont like to do that.. till i flush...
all problems can be fixed even when fertilizing as long as you know what your doing with the ferts...
Id rather think my plant is gonna be fed and stabilize the ph gradually rather than not feeding, getting more deficiencies and then trying to fix the problem.... damaged leaves dont heal....
so prevent the others from gettting worst as your fixing your ph problem ...
but hey everyone has there way of solving there problems... i just thought id tell you what i think..
Im not a scott blakey or an ed rosenthal... but My grows have been pretty spotless till now.. aside from some mite problems a while back....
You clearly do have a ph problem... now there are a few ways to go about it...
if you had a stomach bug... would you just not eat till it gets better and take meds... or take meds, and eat till you get better...
Not fertilizing your plant is like starving it (on the long run) .. i dont like to do that.. till i flush...
all problems can be fixed even when fertilizing as long as you know what your doing with the ferts...
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
its tricky fertilizing and correcting ph at the same time as the ph is gradually lowered the nute uptake is raised so if you feed and feed and feed than the ph starts droping you could run into problems... the main problem is ph, how do you know there isn't plenty of nutes in the soil that just can't be absorbed at a high ph but bring the ph down and all the nutes start getting used again so if you add nutes to it to compensate when your ph is back to normal you start getting burnt... i asked about stage of growth because it could be flushed transplanted into a more acidic soil and resume growth with no ill effects and resume a normal feeding schedual the following week and there will be plenty of food in the new soil to help it along..... thats just my opinion and what i would do... if you got the flu and feel like your gonna throwup ya dnt eat chili
after a flush you can feed you dnt have to wait for it to dry out again as long as you got good drainage and it isnt really the best way to lower ph, it doesnt stabalize it, it just fakes it for a few days than it will start going back up, best thing is to get it in soil with a good ph flush it and feed it on the next feeding but remember that it will get nutes from the new soil too if it is a good organic mix so you really arn't starving your plant but whatever do what you want i know what i would do
KushCanuck
Well-Known Member
Helped a lot of friends with their outdoor grows with my seeds / clones, but never have done one myself. However, in your case, I am "seasoned" in starting indoors and going outdoors. Shoot me your questions mate
I flush with plain water (EC of 1.2-1.3) every week (my day happens to be Wednesdays somehow). Keeps your salt levels in check on a regular basis and keeps the nutrients refreshed. With my Ultra Haze experience, I only flush twice during vegetative growth (2 and 4 weeks) because I like to keep my Nitrogen rich amendments like my guanos concentrated for the best possible root system before flowers. Happy growing mate
KC
haze2
Well-Known Member
First off thanks jahtrip, tussel, and KUSH you guys are too cool. My plants are now vegged 32 days and have been flowering for 61 days. The tallest now is about 6 ft and smallest being about 3.5-4 ft all planted in 5 gallon buckets. I run 6oow shps and 400 mh through the whole grow. Moisture levels are always good I feed once a week and water with molasses most of the time twice a week. Im using Earth Juice whole line. Stupid question what would be my growth fert my EJ Grow right??
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
so what do you got 2-3 weeks left not worth the transplant its already in a 5 gal bucket, a good flush with low ph and feed will do ya.... how long do you suppose you have left?????
remember that a smaller plant needs less water than a bigger one so the smaller one might not need to be watered at the same rate as the bigger one. big plant ,larger rootmass, larger rootmass, drinks more water
haze2
Well-Known Member
I think on the Power Skunk I have about 2-3 more weeks and the Ultra Haze I figure I have 2 more full months. I do water according to their size, I water all at the same times just different amounts. Im hopeing to feed tomorrow they havent eaten in over a week now. Thanks for all the help guys
KushCanuck
Well-Known Member
You will notice a big difference in the Power Skunk vs the Ultra, just be sure to give the Ultra Haze plenty of time, it could easily grow for 14-16 weeks. It packs on the most towards the end, if you can, let her go until the trichomes are to your liking mate. TT made a great point about root mass though, the best indication of feeding is always and will always be weight for me. Let your plants speak to you mate, keep up the good work
KC