Stelthy's 600W Hps Project! (New-Cab)
- Thread starter stelthy
- Start date
oOBe RyeOo
Active Member
Must be some pretty cheap plastic... still a cool find though.I've heard its around $39.00 but I need to track down a price for one (and make sure its compatable) in the UK, Its an awesome bit of kit ...and a kids toy, So its cheap as chips- STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
stelthy
Well-Known Member
Lol...Yeah man just waiting on some new seeds to arrive and the 'log' will begin and it'll be extremely well documented...At least after reading through as far as you have you have a good idea of the idea's, time and effort gone into this project so far
Hope you weren't to dissapointed to see no ladies as of yet...Don't worry its literally about to start some time this week I expect I was going to start with Jack Herer as I had a seed left, But the little fucker (Just like the real one) died 
I also wanted to use Alegria Haze, or Shark's Breath but I also like the look of Blue-Cheese and some others... I'll do a bit of research but I WILL be getting them this week...so watch this space - STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
Yeah if its anything like the other version I posted a page or so ago...it is cheap ass'd plastic but if it works...Thats the main thing!
I look forward to finding a place to buy this one - STELTHY oOBe RyeOo
Active Member
That's really cool man. When we gonna be seeing some green come outta this state of the art stealth grow cab?
Edit:
Never mind just saw your reply to the other guy. Just got my seeds today. What strains you gonna be growin?
Edit:
Never mind just saw your reply to the other guy. Just got my seeds today. What strains you gonna be growin?
SmokinJoe113
Active Member
Sick cab you got there stealthy.. Just spent about an hour looking through your thread!! You do a great job, keep it up!!
CabinetBuds
Active Member
Stelthy,
I was just looking through your thread and you asked if anyone had used AN Bud Ignitor, and AN Overdrive? We used both. in our grow. ALL our products are Advanced Nutrients and we LOVE them!!
I was just looking through your thread and you asked if anyone had used AN Bud Ignitor, and AN Overdrive? We used both. in our grow. ALL our products are Advanced Nutrients and we LOVE them!!
stelthy
Well-Known Member
Excellent thanks Cab.... What made you choose Advanced Nutrients over the other brands? I found that both Bud Candy and Hammer head worked exceptionally well I am most interested in Rhino Skin and OverDrive .....How effective were those 2? Cheers for getting back to me on that question
- STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
I have decided to add a brief caption on 'How to Read a Fertilizer Label' not only for my own use/reference but so other's can get an understanding of it too!
Plants, like people, need a balanced diet to thrive. Here is the 'mystery' of fertilizers broken down into its most basic form.
Steps
1)
Determine percentages of the major active ingredients in the package. N-P-K (Nitrogen- Phosphorus- Potassium) are the 3 most abundant ingredients listed on EVERY fertilizer label. They are always in this order, N-P-K. You will see them on the label as three numbers. Such as: 30-10-10 / 10-5-5- / 21-0-0- But what does it mean and how do you know which formula you need? The first example, 30-10-10, means that if you had 100 pounds of that fertilizer there would be 30 pounds of available nitrogen, 10 pounds of available phosphorus and 10 pounds of available potassium (potash). The remaining 50 pounds are inert or inactive ingredients.
2)
Know what each ingredient is used for. Nitrogen is for green and growth. Phosphorus and Potassium for fruit, flower and roots. To turn a lawn green and get it growing, 21-0-0 is the fastest and cheapest way to go. That is Sulphate of Ammonia. However, to promote a healthy lawn that is more drought-tolerant, you would want the roots to be well developed also. A general purpose lawn fertilizer such as 10-6-4 would be a far better diet to achieve a truly healthy lawn.
3)
Research your plants needs. Check several sources. Compare notes on what different experts recommend for the type of plants you are growing. When making fertilizer purchases your knowledge of N-P-K percentages will aid in your decisions. Nitrogen = Green/Growth. Phosphorus and Potassium = Fruit/Flower/Roots.
When reading a fertilizer label you may notice items like: Magnesium, Calcium, Sulfur, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Boron and Molybdenum in addition to Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium in chemical compounds. These trace elements are essential to the plant's growth. Many of these elements are available in the soil naturally. Plants take in elements (chemicals) through their roots and leaves. Plants convert these raw elements into fruit and foliage, rich in vitamins. Avoid the purchase of additives such as Vitamin B or any so-called fertilizer which contains proteins or fats. Plants can not absorb vitamins, pet food, milk or any processed foods.
Well composted vegetation is beneficial to your plant's health because it has been broken down and returned to basic elements for the plant to absorb. Compost also loosens the soil and allows the roots to receive oxygen.
Remember: Plants take in elements and convert them into vitamins. Humans take in vitamins and convert them into elements.
Fertilizers do not produce instant results. In many cases, it takes two or three weeks for any physical changes to be seen.
As a general rule liquid fertilizers cost much more for the product you receive than their dry equivalent, but they may impact the plant quickly as they are already in a form that is water borne in solution.
Components of dry fertilizers may have to break down, and certainly at the very least must dissolve and be kept well enough watered for several weeks to be made continuously available to the roots.
One may use a combination of
liquid fertilizer for quick uptake and
dry kinds that kicks in a little later, and
even time-released fertilizers that prolong the benefit to the plants.
Warnings
Do not overfeed! When in doubt, use less than recommended, not more. If the label says one cup every month you would be safer to use 1/2 cup every 2 weeks. The same is true with houseplants. They can be fed a weaker solution every time you water instead of a large jolt every month.
Do not fertilize plants in the hot sun. This can cause leaf burn and damage the plant.
Most plants prefer to have a dormant period in the Fall and Winter. Unless you live in the tropics, stop feeding in the early Fall. New growth at that time of the year is subject to Winter frost damage. Houseplants enjoy having a 'resting' phase as opposed to forcing them to constantly grow.
Do not use fertilizers intended for outdoor use on your houseplants. The chances are very good that fertilizers intended for use on crops, shrubs and trees will be too strong for indoor or small container use.
Most seedlings do not benefit from fertilizer use. Wait until you feel the plant is old enough (3-4 weeks) to safely apply any fertilizer. When starting to fertilize very young plants do so sparingly.
As with any chemicals, be sure to keep out of reach of children.
I hope this has helped some of you out The main reason I added it here was so I can make sure I don't over feed/boost the plants at set times of their growth, by mixing up to many different nuitrients with high N-P-K readings, as stated above it's better to under feed than over feed.....However its even better to know exactly the amount to maximise the plants potential without causing any harm or upset to the growth.
Different plants require different N-P-K ratio's so a basic understanding of when the correct nuitrients are required is helpful, and in a hydro setup its important to be spot on (no room for blunders) - STELTHY
Plants, like people, need a balanced diet to thrive. Here is the 'mystery' of fertilizers broken down into its most basic form.
Steps
1)
Determine percentages of the major active ingredients in the package. N-P-K (Nitrogen- Phosphorus- Potassium) are the 3 most abundant ingredients listed on EVERY fertilizer label. They are always in this order, N-P-K. You will see them on the label as three numbers. Such as: 30-10-10 / 10-5-5- / 21-0-0- But what does it mean and how do you know which formula you need? The first example, 30-10-10, means that if you had 100 pounds of that fertilizer there would be 30 pounds of available nitrogen, 10 pounds of available phosphorus and 10 pounds of available potassium (potash). The remaining 50 pounds are inert or inactive ingredients.
2)
Know what each ingredient is used for. Nitrogen is for green and growth. Phosphorus and Potassium for fruit, flower and roots. To turn a lawn green and get it growing, 21-0-0 is the fastest and cheapest way to go. That is Sulphate of Ammonia. However, to promote a healthy lawn that is more drought-tolerant, you would want the roots to be well developed also. A general purpose lawn fertilizer such as 10-6-4 would be a far better diet to achieve a truly healthy lawn.
3)
Research your plants needs. Check several sources. Compare notes on what different experts recommend for the type of plants you are growing. When making fertilizer purchases your knowledge of N-P-K percentages will aid in your decisions. Nitrogen = Green/Growth. Phosphorus and Potassium = Fruit/Flower/Roots.
When reading a fertilizer label you may notice items like: Magnesium, Calcium, Sulfur, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Boron and Molybdenum in addition to Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium in chemical compounds. These trace elements are essential to the plant's growth. Many of these elements are available in the soil naturally. Plants take in elements (chemicals) through their roots and leaves. Plants convert these raw elements into fruit and foliage, rich in vitamins. Avoid the purchase of additives such as Vitamin B or any so-called fertilizer which contains proteins or fats. Plants can not absorb vitamins, pet food, milk or any processed foods.
Well composted vegetation is beneficial to your plant's health because it has been broken down and returned to basic elements for the plant to absorb. Compost also loosens the soil and allows the roots to receive oxygen.
Remember: Plants take in elements and convert them into vitamins. Humans take in vitamins and convert them into elements.
Fertilizers do not produce instant results. In many cases, it takes two or three weeks for any physical changes to be seen.
As a general rule liquid fertilizers cost much more for the product you receive than their dry equivalent, but they may impact the plant quickly as they are already in a form that is water borne in solution.
Components of dry fertilizers may have to break down, and certainly at the very least must dissolve and be kept well enough watered for several weeks to be made continuously available to the roots.
One may use a combination of
liquid fertilizer for quick uptake and
dry kinds that kicks in a little later, and
even time-released fertilizers that prolong the benefit to the plants.
Warnings
Do not overfeed! When in doubt, use less than recommended, not more. If the label says one cup every month you would be safer to use 1/2 cup every 2 weeks. The same is true with houseplants. They can be fed a weaker solution every time you water instead of a large jolt every month.
Do not fertilize plants in the hot sun. This can cause leaf burn and damage the plant.
Most plants prefer to have a dormant period in the Fall and Winter. Unless you live in the tropics, stop feeding in the early Fall. New growth at that time of the year is subject to Winter frost damage. Houseplants enjoy having a 'resting' phase as opposed to forcing them to constantly grow.
Do not use fertilizers intended for outdoor use on your houseplants. The chances are very good that fertilizers intended for use on crops, shrubs and trees will be too strong for indoor or small container use.
Most seedlings do not benefit from fertilizer use. Wait until you feel the plant is old enough (3-4 weeks) to safely apply any fertilizer. When starting to fertilize very young plants do so sparingly.
As with any chemicals, be sure to keep out of reach of children.
I hope this has helped some of you out
The main reason I added it here was so I can make sure I don't over feed/boost the plants at set times of their growth, by mixing up to many different nuitrients with high N-P-K readings, as stated above it's better to under feed than over feed.....However its even better to know exactly the amount to maximise the plants potential without causing any harm or upset to the growth.Different plants require different N-P-K ratio's so a basic understanding of when the correct nuitrients are required is helpful, and in a hydro setup its important to be spot on (no room for blunders) - STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
It is also a good idea to get a 'Nutra-Wand CF Hydroponic Meter' I have one and it comes in real handy when wanting to know if correct level of nuitrient has been provided for the plant/s after a water change etc..
Nutra-Wand CF Meter
Product Information
The stick measures the nutrient strength of a solution. It is essential when growing hydroponics to know what the strength of the solution is before feeding your plants and while they are growing. The stick is the perfect all-around conductivity meter. Its rugged chassis and precision components make it super accurate every time you use it.
This incredibly accurate meter is fully waterproof and simple to use. Just dip the probe end into the nutrient and the unit turns on and off automatically. The reading is instantly displayed on an intuitive and easy to read scale of waterproof LED lights.
Features:
Fully waterproof
Measures EC, CF and PPM scales
High conductivity measurement for a broad range of crops
Factory calibrated, never needs recalibration
Auto turn on and off
No external knobs or switches
Measuring range :0.4 ~ 5.2EC/4 - 52CF/280 ~ 3640ppm(EC x 700)/200 ~ 3000ppm(EC x 500)
Accuracy: 4%
Resolution: 0.1EC/1CF/70ppm 700/50ppm 500
Operating Temperature :0 ~ 50(32 - 122F)
Batteries :31.5V (AA Batteries)
Dimensions: 415mm x 23mm
These cost between £20.00 and £40.00 depending where you go and are great! Every grower should have one, no matter what they are growing - STELTHY
Nutra-Wand CF Meter
Product Information
The stick measures the nutrient strength of a solution. It is essential when growing hydroponics to know what the strength of the solution is before feeding your plants and while they are growing. The stick is the perfect all-around conductivity meter. Its rugged chassis and precision components make it super accurate every time you use it.
This incredibly accurate meter is fully waterproof and simple to use. Just dip the probe end into the nutrient and the unit turns on and off automatically. The reading is instantly displayed on an intuitive and easy to read scale of waterproof LED lights.
Features:
Fully waterproof
Measures EC, CF and PPM scales
High conductivity measurement for a broad range of crops
Factory calibrated, never needs recalibration
Auto turn on and off
No external knobs or switches
Measuring range :0.4 ~ 5.2EC/4 - 52CF/280 ~ 3640ppm(EC x 700)/200 ~ 3000ppm(EC x 500)
Accuracy: 4%
Resolution: 0.1EC/1CF/70ppm 700/50ppm 500
Operating Temperature :0 ~ 50(32 - 122F)
Batteries :31.5V (AA Batteries)
Dimensions: 415mm x 23mm
These cost between £20.00 and £40.00 depending where you go and are great! Every grower should have one, no matter what they are growing
- STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
Cheer's man, I'am well looking forward to getting my seed's....The very moment I receive them I will start my grow log, I have finally decided to go with 'Blue Cheese' & 'Train Wreck'/'FrostWreck' I sure hope they arrive soon
- STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
This is the 'Blue Cheese' that I plan to grow
BLUE CHEESE
Blue Cheese from Goldenseed.nl has been selected form the best of the rest, our Blueberry father and a Barney's Farm Cheese Mother we set out to improve upon what is already a classic strain. This strain is a must for any Cheese lovers out there, combined this with the up high of Goldenseeds Blueberry and we belive this along with our very own Jack-Frost is one of our finest creations. From these crosses a male with extremely fruity characteristics was chosen as the father of Blue Cheese.
Genetics: 30% Blueberry 70% Cheese
Variety: Sativa/ Indica Hybrid
Type: Stabilized Hybrid, True-Breeding
Potency: 9 out of 10
Yield: 200-450 gr per sq. mt. indoor.
Stature: Not very tall 40-55 cm
Indoor: 60 to 70 days Outdoor: End October/ November
Thc: Content 15%/20%
Effect: Very uplifting High, No Ceiling.Highly euphoric, Very functional, incredible smoke
Grow Difficulty: Easy (Good for beginners)
BLUE CHEESE
Blue Cheese from Goldenseed.nl has been selected form the best of the rest, our Blueberry father and a Barney's Farm Cheese Mother we set out to improve upon what is already a classic strain. This strain is a must for any Cheese lovers out there, combined this with the up high of Goldenseeds Blueberry and we belive this along with our very own Jack-Frost is one of our finest creations. From these crosses a male with extremely fruity characteristics was chosen as the father of Blue Cheese.
Genetics: 30% Blueberry 70% Cheese
Variety: Sativa/ Indica Hybrid
Type: Stabilized Hybrid, True-Breeding
Potency: 9 out of 10
Yield: 200-450 gr per sq. mt. indoor.
Stature: Not very tall 40-55 cm
Indoor: 60 to 70 days Outdoor: End October/ November
Thc: Content 15%/20%
Effect: Very uplifting High, No Ceiling.Highly euphoric, Very functional, incredible smoke
Grow Difficulty: Easy (Good for beginners)
stelthy
Well-Known Member
This is 'FrostWreck' (a possibility if I can get the seed's)..
FROST-WRECK
Genetics: Jack-Frost x TrainWreck
Variety: Sativa Dominant Hybrid
Effect: Powerful high and great special taste
Potency: 10 out of 10
Yield: 2/3 ounces
Stature: Average high
Phenotype: Sativa/indica mix
Indoor: 55 to 65 days Outdoor: Mid October
Characteristics: Skunky amide smell and taste
YIELD PER PLANT IS BASED ON 100% ORGANIC NUTRIENTS & SOIL IN 6 LITRE CONTAINERS....(So DWC will decimate the 2/3 Oz that soil promises )
FROST-WRECK
Genetics: Jack-Frost x TrainWreck
Variety: Sativa Dominant Hybrid
Effect: Powerful high and great special taste
Potency: 10 out of 10
Yield: 2/3 ounces
Stature: Average high
Phenotype: Sativa/indica mix
Indoor: 55 to 65 days Outdoor: Mid October
Characteristics: Skunky amide smell and taste
YIELD PER PLANT IS BASED ON 100% ORGANIC NUTRIENTS & SOIL IN 6 LITRE CONTAINERS....(So DWC will decimate the 2/3 Oz that soil promises
)
stelthy
Well-Known Member
And this is the original 'Train-Wreck' I plan to grow
Delicious and potent, this strain is a legacy from Humbolt county in California, dating from the seventies. A mix of Afghan, Thai, and Mexican sativa, this Trainwreck hybrid is an excellent medicinal for treating head ailments such as migraines, physical manifestations of pain and nausea. Sativa dominant, yet still some Indica traits.
So with any luck at least one of these types will be settled in in my cupboard, ready to go the distance - STELTHY
Delicious and potent, this strain is a legacy from Humbolt county in California, dating from the seventies. A mix of Afghan, Thai, and Mexican sativa, this Trainwreck hybrid is an excellent medicinal for treating head ailments such as migraines, physical manifestations of pain and nausea. Sativa dominant, yet still some Indica traits.
So with any luck at least one of these types will be settled in in my cupboard, ready to go the distance
- STELTHY
stelthy
Well-Known Member
I was just messaged and asked about UV-B light and the effect on our plants, I said I covered it earlier in 'this' thread, but I was informed that another grower had added some info, So here's a link to some extra info on UV-B lighting :- https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/36368-trichomes-thc-uvb-light.html
I haven't read it through properly yet but will sit and learn more this evening, Cheer's 'Dirt Bikin Buds' for the link, and cheer's 'tahoe58' for the info on your thread, it will make for an interesting read - I am sure - STELTHY
I haven't read it through properly yet but will sit and learn more this evening, Cheer's 'Dirt Bikin Buds' for the link, and cheer's 'tahoe58' for the info on your thread, it will make for an interesting read - I am sure
- STELTHY SmokinJoe113
Active Member
Sweet man! Best of luck. I will be watching your progress.Cheer's man, I'am well looking forward to getting my seed's....The very moment I receive them I will start my grow log, I have finally decided to go with 'Blue Cheese' & 'Train Wreck'/'FrostWreck' I sure hope they arrive soon
StonedBlownSkiller
Well-Known Member
Id love to see some trainwreck in there. maybe a lemon skunk too or something
stelthy
Well-Known Member
Train-Wreck is a defo! But it will most likely be accompanied by Blue-Cheese, I don't know of anywhere local that sells Frost-Wreck, If I can get it, it will be nice to have 2 different wreck's on the go
I don't really wanna buy seeds over the net, That all seem's a bit sketchy to me. Much more in favour of 'Pay cash - Take away in brown paper bag' technique Stelthy by name and by nature eh lol I sure hope the seeds come soon though - STELTHY