subs supersoil

This had a lid on it, right? Not in the direct light?

It's good that it looks and smells OK. Generally you can tell if something's not cool. You could always scrape off.

It's common and good to have a light white blanket on the top of the soil when you open it, especially after the first week. But that looks like a quality carpet. And green at least on my monitor.

Of course if you think it really is a moss, then let it get some light. See what happens. Nothing bad, that's for sure.

ha it seems carpet like too! im almost too lazy to scrape it off lol almost... have you composted moss before? lol

shouldnt look green though, its got a yellow hue

How long should i leave it covered up and should i add some water, mines been sealed for a week and there is no heat at all???

Take a hand full. Squeeze it. If it stays as a little ball, good. Next tap the soil ball. If it crumbles, then that's perfect moisture. You can always add water. You can always stir. Should smell good. Get a little Neem and Crab to help with the larvae while the soil cooks.

Just started making supersoil w coco, cant wait for my blueberries to drop in it . I been running coco and fox farms, I been organic and I usually have to feed w every watering, I use up about 50 galons of water every watering cycle now.i been using teas with success but I want to further my horizons and see what kind of yield ill have now. Been averaging 4 oz per plant w mediocre strains, no knockouts so far but deff great smoke but im only looking for the best and out of 200+ plant's I haven't found 1 keeper.

Rrog said:

"Real Organic Living Soil" Basically a planned no-till. No dumping and re-mixing. Instead, add amendments like worm compost as the plant grows, keeping the nutrient levels sufficient for the next plant.

You leave the complex microbe web in tact by not dumping. Take advantage of that when the next plant is plopped in, hopefully immediately after chop. The web will sense the new roots, plug in, and use the old root system as food, rapidly and actively decomposing and storing.

Click to expand...

Rrog,

I get it, this allows as time progresses a build up naturally but maybe not just in numbers per say but development. I bet this method will work excellent where as I can add my bokashi compost once ready as a top dress to existing living soil so it can have nutrients ready that friendly bacteria can work into the web as well. This shall be a beautiful thing my friend I can't wait to use bokashi compost and tea for my ROLS.

Thanks again.

This is what I got without ROLS but using and organic soil similar to subs supersoil but more in it especially microbes.

Can't wait to see what happens using ROLS...

So I am going to prepare the soil this was in for a ROLS grow. My Understanding I need to remove plant set cloth pots aside and amend with EWC and Teas then plant back into cloth pot being careful not to distrupt to much the soil web when transplanting in new ones and add mycro's to roots during transplant and let it do its thing and grow?

I have had my super soil cooking for almost 3 weeks now in a 55 gal drum and I have not seen any white fuzz or anything of sort. It smells reall earthy. Its warm to the touch. I do not see any white fungi or such is it ok not to see it or shoukd I spread on tarp and add more mychorrizae or how ever itd spelt

how does one cook their soil in the wintertime? just put it in a drum in the grow room?

mrblu said:

how does one cook their soil in the wintertime? just put it in a drum in the grow room?

Click to expand...

mrblu yeppers affirmitive

DANKSWAG said:

This is what I got without ROLS but using and organic soil similar to subs supersoil but more in it especially microbes.

Can't wait to see what happens using ROLS...

So I am going to prepare the soil this was in for a ROLS grow. My Understanding I need to remove plant set cloth pots aside and amend with EWC and Teas then plant back into cloth pot being careful not to distrupt to much the soil web when transplanting in new ones and add mycro's to roots during transplant and let it do its thing and grow?

Click to expand...

Nice looking buds bro!

You would also benefit from planting a cover crop on your pots while they're sitting. A lot of people use clover for this. It will fix atmospheric nitrogen, and keep the upper layer of soil active/alive. I want to transition to 3x6 geo-pot garden beds. I bet I could run that soil for 12-18 months with nothing more than a cover crop, mulching and top-dressing.

Stowngrow...

Thanks man, you know I appreciate that greatly.

I really enjoy what I gleam from this thread compared to some others. There are some grow journal threads out there that have real narcissistic characters posting to a cultish group.

Anywise I am grateful for your feedback. It holds more weight from sincere folks as you who just want to everyone to enjoy the wonderful organic ways we can interact and enhance the health of our plants. Its a win win for everyone from a healthier planet and gardens to making it easier to care for and afford to have them and enjoy them to the fullest that only organic gardening can bring in aroma, taste and flavors.

Anywise it is good to be part of a kindred spirit that promotes sharing our experiences which is especially important for comparing and attempting to duplicate or avoid certain outcomes.

What cover crop would you recommend? I have access to feed stores, farming community and indoor grow shops as well, so something easy to obtain and gets the job done works for me.

So know that I have completed my harvest, for ROLS how much of the main stem and its roots do I remove from my cloth pots?
For ROLS I should be taking these cloths pots now and transplant new clones into them add some additional fungi mychros to the area in the soil where transplanted roots will come into contact with. Then I should feed next watering with 1tbs molasses to gallon water. After two weeks then introduce beneficial bacteria so the fungi mychros will have had a chance to fortify there relationship with the root system?

Anywise that is the tack I am taking unless given reason to add/change anything?

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On!

DANK,

I would do the following:

Cut your current plant off at the base of soil, trying to remove most of the "trunk" from the rootball. Leave the rootball undisturbed in your container. Next mix up a mulch to lay down right on top of your soil. A good mulch would consist of ewc (home made is best if you have a worm bin) along with a good dynamic accumulator such as comfrey, nettle, yarrow, etc. If you have something like comfrey just dry the leaves out, and crumble them up a bit. I would also add some aeration material to that so that your container doesn't get too muddy. Rice hulls are a good option for this. You should also re-amend your soil with some organic granules such as kelp meal, alfalfa, and/or an all purpose granule like one of Espomas "Tone" products. Aproximately half the amount of organic inputs that you originally used to amend that amount of soil with. Once your mulch is prepared, broadcast some clover seeds in the mulch mix, and then add a blanket of bark chips on the very top (optional, but recommended). This will keep the soil moist and alive beneath it, and reduce the amount of times you have to wet down the container. Using an ACT to wet it down with is a good idea, imo.

At this point your container is ready to sit for the requisite amount of time. I would leave the container in your flower room, but off to the side or at the perimeter of your current mj plants that are under your light. This will give the clover some indirect light, but not take up any room directly under your light. Letting it sit like this will allow the microbes in the soil to begin breaking down the rootball. I would leave it be for a period of 30-60 days. At that point you will have a nice layer of clover that you can "chop and drop" .... meaning that you cut the clover down, but leave it on the surface of the soil. This clover will act as another layer of mulch when you add your next mj plant to the container. There will be a ton of micro-life near the surface due to the ewc/bio-acumulator/organic ammendments/mulch that you laid down. Now just dig down a bit and create a pocket/hole for your mj plant to be placed in, and situate the mulch back around the base of your new plant. Done deal! Water and proceed as usual.

Rrog said:

Exactly! I mean, that's it for everything.

And I will make another shameless plug for everyone to make their own VC!!! If you're growing soil- it's the best thing possible. Much deeper relationship with the plant than any bottled fert could ever have. Save cash, hire worms...

Click to expand...

Hi Rrog,

I think I found the solution for my failing above ground worm bin....

PRESENTING BUNKER VERMI COMPOSTING!

DankSwag

Rrog said:

The soil temps are not reaching thermophilic levels. The microbes don't get cooked. Actually during the 4-5 weeks the microbes are very much alive storing all the raw nutes. THat's why before 5 weeks it can be hot. The microbes aren't done yet.

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Hey Rrog,

Can you help me clarify something here. I agree with you bacteria microbes are doing there work are not getting cooked.
However what I have read about myco fungi is a different matter when it comes to cooking soil. One point is without plant roots to form a relationship with they will die and second raw liquid nutrients high in Phosphorous will kill off fungi as well, and finally 3rd I believe wrong PH will kill them as well.

So is that how you understand what can effect the life of fungi in the soil?
If so it means that perhaps phosphorus amendments should be focused more on slow release?

Appreciate your input just want to ensure I am correctly informed on the matter.

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On.

anzohaze said:

I have had my super soil cooking for almost 3 weeks now in a 55 gal drum and I have not seen any white fuzz or anything of sort. It smells reall earthy. Its warm to the touch. I do not see any white fungi or such is it ok not to see it or shoukd I spread on tarp and add more mychorrizae or how ever itd spelt

Click to expand...

What is the temperature of the room it is in? Is it moist? Out of sunlight? Covered light so air has access? These are important for that bacterial growth. UV KILLS, Cold temps lack of H20 -sans chloride and oxygen is needed.

If you have purchased mycho's I would hold them till transplant then add at that time. Then use a soluable about 3 weeks later to reapply.

As the other folks here such use stinging nettle, comfrey? Teas to aid in what is taking place in the soil web. I still am learning about these teas.
Mostly how to source materials for use for I have made teas before.

DankSwag
Grow On My Friends Grow On

Hey Stowngrow,

Question for you...

It seems Rrog suggests using the containers almost immediately after chop to take advantage of the existing mycho's?
Whereas you provided details on further preparing, can you explain perhaps the difference in approach to ROLS?
Thanks
DankSwag

• 

  Originally Posted by Rrog
  "Real Organic Living Soil" Basically a planned no-till. No dumping and re-mixing. Instead, add amendments like worm compost as the plant grows, keeping the nutrient levels sufficient for the next plant.
  
  You leave the complex microbe web in tact by not dumping. Take advantage of that when the next plant is plopped in, hopefully immediately after chop. The web will sense the new roots, plug in, and use the old root system as food, rapidly and actively decomposing and storing.
  
  
  
  ​
  
  
  
  

ROL or LOS as some call it these days is catching on quite nice. I felt obligated to get back here and assist. It heals me.

DANKSWAG said:

Hey Stowngrow,

Question for you...

It seems Rrog suggests using the containers almost immediately after chop to take advantage of the existing mycho's?
Whereas you provided details on further preparing, can you explain perhaps the difference in approach to ROLS?
Thanks
DankSwag

• 

  Originally Posted by Rrog
  "Real Organic Living Soil" Basically a planned no-till. No dumping and re-mixing. Instead, add amendments like worm compost as the plant grows, keeping the nutrient levels sufficient for the next plant.
  
  You leave the complex microbe web in tact by not dumping. Take advantage of that when the next plant is plopped in, hopefully immediately after chop. The web will sense the new roots, plug in, and use the old root system as food, rapidly and actively decomposing and storing.
  
  
  
  ​
  
  

Click to expand...

You can go about it either way. The cover crop (clover) will send roots down and keep the soil food web active and functioning if you choose to leave the pots fallow for a period of time. I am opting for this because my containers are on the small side of things for a no-till set up so in my mind at least I want some of the prior root ball consumed before putting another mj plant in there. Also I want to allow some time for the newly applied organic inputs to be broken down so that they are bio-available when my plant goes in there. You can always apply more mycorrhizae to the root zone when you transplant as well. I would try both and see what works best for you. I would suspect that you will get good results either way.

If Rrog and I give conflicting advice, it's never a bad idea to assume that Rrog is correct. I try not to spout off if I don't know what I'm talking about, but you can take what Rrog says to the bank every time.