Sugar Water

wad up stoners, quick question about using sugar as a carbo. Has anyone ever just used sugar and water to help out w/ density? I'm pretty cheap and dnt want to spend the money on carbo load or sweet, but I want dense nugs. If anyone has any comments please feel free to share. Just want to know if it's worked for some or a total waste.:blsmoke:
 

meezy4tw

Active Member
I grow in soil and use a tablespoon of molasses per gallon, dunno what your medium is but I say if you want to do it use molasses, not sugar and water, well its almost the same in a sense but totally not lol :)
 

Robert Paulson

Active Member
Cutting Edge Solutions has an additive called Sugaree for the final 2-3 wks of flower. soluable potash 0-0-2 guaranteed analysis. i haven't used it yet I plan on it next grow when i switch to a coco blend. I've heard mixed reviews on molasses. maybe try some molasses on half of 'em and see if you can tell a difference. I wouldn't recommend straight sugar water I imagine that would be very very hard for the plant to breakdown to use.
 
I think I am going to try the molasses, it seems pretty cheap and it gets the JOB done. I forgot to mention that i'm in soil, indoor, one plant under a thouy hps. My temps are pretty high to, sometimes in the 90's, should this be corrected first? If my temps are to high is it pointless to use the molasses? Here are a couple of pics, almost 7 weeks. :blsmoke:DSC03756.jpgDSC03755.jpg
 

chronic coinoisseur

Active Member
One plant under 1000 hps? Either bump down the wattage or up the plantage. Malt extract can also be used as a little more expensive carbo but it also has a bunch of enzymes which can help with nutrient availability, malt extract can be found at brewing stores and in some grocery stores
 

TheOrganic

Well-Known Member
Good choice go with molasses unsulphured to be exact. Plants won't take in straight sugar its not broke down for them to eat.
 

Da Almighty Jew

Well-Known Member
I read that there is actually very little sugar in molasses though.:idea:

Plants can uptake sugars in minute proportions. I dont see how giving them sugar water could help.:!: IMO i think it would be better to go with some type of additive that has a bunch of diffrent types of sugars combined in it. And also to use molasses for its minerals, help with microbes, and sugars in it :leaf:
 

Dubbz0r

Well-Known Member
I have an additive (Sea Green) that helps break down sugars and other nutrients for the plant to absorb. 6 days into my flower and with my next feed I will begin using unsulphured molasses until harvest along with the Sea Green and other nutes I use (Humboldt).
 

Nullis

Moderator
Molasses has plenty of sugars in it (primarily sucrose). It's just that blackstrap should contain less than other varieties. Molasses is a by-product of sugar refinement; sugar cane juice is boiled to precipitate the sugar it contains. With each boiling less sugar is left behind and the minerals become more concentrated. Actual content of sugars and minerals will very between brands of blackstrap, though. Generally it is about 50% sugar, mostly sucrose (a disaccharide) along with fructose and glucose (both monosaccharides, from which sucrose is derived). You can taste the difference in blackstrap compared to other grades of molasses, such as Grandma's (which isn't blackstrap). Blackstrap has a bitter-sweet taste which is more bitter than sweet. First and second molasses have a taste that is more sweet and less bitter.

This isn't going to "help out with density", though...not directly anyways. It may help in other ways, as there is potential that the molasses contains some nutrient which is lacking and thus limiting the growth of your plants (potassium for instance). As has been alluded to plants don't take up any significant amount of exogenous sugars. From my recollection experiments on other plants using sucrose tagged with a radioisotope demonstrated that the roots only absorbed about 16% of it. And none of it was detected in any other part of the plant; only in the root cells (possibly because it was metabolized there). Another thing to note is that plants actually exude (release) compounds like sucrose and other carbs into the rhizosphere, and they do this to attract microbes. When you apply any kind of sugars to the soil they will be fierce competition for it among microbes.

One more thing to note is that with molasses less is generally more.
 

ClamDigger

Active Member
Molasses has plenty of sugars in it (primarily sucrose). It's just that blackstrap should contain less than other varieties. Molasses is a by-product of sugar refinement; sugar cane juice is boiled to precipitate the sugar it contains. With each boiling less sugar is left behind and the minerals become more concentrated. Actual content of sugars and minerals will very between brands of blackstrap, though. Generally it is about 50% sugar, mostly sucrose (a disaccharide) along with fructose and glucose (both monosaccharides, from which sucrose is derived). You can taste the difference in blackstrap compared to other grades of molasses, such as Grandma's (which isn't blackstrap). Blackstrap has a bitter-sweet taste which is more bitter than sweet. First and second molasses have a taste that is more sweet and less bitter.

This isn't going to "help out with density", though...not directly anyways. It may help in other ways, as there is potential that the molasses contains some nutrient which is lacking and thus limiting the growth of your plants (potassium for instance). As has been alluded to plants don't take up any significant amount of exogenous sugars. From my recollection experiments on other plants using sucrose tagged with a radioisotope demonstrated that the roots only absorbed about 16% of it. And none of it was detected in any other part of the plant; only in the root cells (possibly because it was metabolized there). Another thing to note is that plants actually exude (release) compounds like sucrose and other carbs into the rhizosphere, and they do this to attract microbes. When you apply any kind of sugars to the soil they will be fierce competition for it among microbes.

One more thing to note is that with molasses less is generally more.
so true, i have gradually cut back form a tablespoon to a teaspoon per gallon, it still works wonders, and my molasses lasts longer.
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
Without reading any of the above posts , dont bother your other thread on molassas covers what you seek .
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Yes you do need to lower your temps Ideal is 75 to 80 lights on and 70 lights off. ( if using Co2 add 10 degrees to lights on) You need to keep your humidity up to 60% minimum . 1/2 table Molasses is the way to go...
 

Prefontaine

Well-Known Member
wad up stoners, quick question about using sugar as a carbo. Has anyone ever just used sugar and water to help out w/ density? I'm pretty cheap and dnt want to spend the money on carbo load or sweet, but I want dense nugs. If anyone has any comments please feel free to share. Just want to know if it's worked for some or a total waste.:blsmoke:
dude dont use sugar in your water, when people add molasses it is specifically for the beneficial bacteria, because the beneficial bacteria increase nute uptake especially nitrogen in urea, adding molasses will do nothing for you plant unless you have a healthy culture of beneficial bacteria, the reason you use molasses instead of sugar is that the molasses has micro nutrients which provide a real diet to the bacteria, you see plants produce sugars to support those bacteria, to grow dense buds you have to have maximum nute availability this is done by having healthy mychorizae and bacteria.
 

Prefontaine

Well-Known Member
I read that there is actually very little sugar in molasses though.:idea:

Plants can uptake sugars in minute proportions. I dont see how giving them sugar water could help.:!: IMO i think it would be better to go with some type of additive that has a bunch of diffrent types of sugars combined in it. And also to use molasses for its minerals, help with microbes, and sugars in it :leaf:
plants release minute amounts of sugar into the soil
 

Prefontaine

Well-Known Member
the roots do not metabolize sugars any isotopes found in the root system would have been caught up by the normal uptake of nutrients and water, and wedged into the tissue.
 

Da Almighty Jew

Well-Known Member
the roots do not metabolize sugars any isotopes found in the root system would have been caught up by the normal uptake of nutrients and water, and wedged into the tissue.
Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates - b.com]Texas Plant & Soil Lab Report
The following is an article I found on molasses and its use with plants. Thought others might find it useful, I did.

“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic production.
Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., Texas Plant & Soil Lab (Home)

Environmental factors that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]

The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
- MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most effective.

In the soil it can:

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.

- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly feed the roots for continued productive growth.

- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.

-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.

Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the induced fruit can mature.​
 

alphawolf.hack

New Member
man sugar molasses cane sugar corn syrup ect. its all sugar u can use any of it to feed microbes its just molasses contains nutrients that plants can breakdown too.
 

ATTITUDESEEDS!

Active Member
that temps way too high depending on your humidity dont stress your plant dude and the last five days of flower leave it in the complete darkness so your buds will soak up the rest of the plants nutrients and thc and overall get a stronger better end product
 
Top