Tags High Efficiency Lighting Garden
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Greengenes707
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My ladies are getting too big and I'm probably going to over grow the space. I did a heavy pruning yesterday and that helped, but it's getting tight. The broad mites did some damage and I want to give them more recovery so that is why I've been delaying flip.
You can see the broads really fucked with the new growth. And I went a little heavy with the forbid. But they are recovering and the BM's are gone as far as I can tell. I will continue with oils into flower a bit.
Im debating putting up tresses and scrogging them now. A little late but might help control them.
While I decide what to do in there, There rest todays festivities are going to be fun...
You can see the broads really fucked with the new growth. And I went a little heavy with the forbid. But they are recovering and the BM's are gone as far as I can tell. I will continue with oils into flower a bit.
Im debating putting up tresses and scrogging them now. A little late but might help control them.
While I decide what to do in there, There rest todays festivities are going to be fun...
The Dawg
Well-Known Member
Hey I'm Not A Scientest But I Did Stay At A Holiday Inn Express Last Night.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
hahahabBaaahahahahahaHey I'm Not A Scientest But I Did Stay At A Holiday Inn Express Last Night.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
She hasn't been under very much light so she was just growing slow, but green and no BM's. But then yesterday I backed into her and split the main stem where the first 2 mainlines start. I taped it and now I have everything in the official veg tent. So we will see what happens. But not looking great for that. If it makes it, she will flower in a few weeks. If not, no more hydro for a bit. I have the space to make my dads soil mix, and I need to get the new garden up and gong with things I know already. I'm thinking if I do switch I will go balls to the wall and get everything automated... feeding, ph, everything.
tallen
Well-Known Member
Hey Green, I was comparing par graphs - the one you made, A51's, and the Growershouse bulb and ballast comparisons and I noticed something that puzzles me about the Growershouse charts. (I'll see if I can figure out how to add them into my post below) On the bulb test they where getting 1800-1900+ on center and around 1000 at the 2x2, but on the ballast test they where only getting half of those readings using the bulb that did the best on the bulb test. Both charts where done at a 24" height and the only thing different is the reflector they used. I don't see how changing reflectors can cut your par readings in half, and I was hoping you know why there is such a big discrepancy.
The reason I ask is because I don't know which chart to use to compare the led charts to the 1000w light output as one shows double the umoles as the other. Also, I can't seem to find a par chart for a 600w hps anywhere and it would be nice to have that info available for comparison as well, so if you know where one is please do share.
I'm currently running 1k's and I can definitely see a change in bud size and structure at about 2' or so out from the center point of the bulb. When I make the switch to led's I want to make sure they will deliver that same intensity as that inner area (and hopefully spread it out even better) especially since I'm going to be adding co2 as well (just got set up to try it out on my next rotation).
Thanks for sharing your tests, charts, and grows with everyone here, this thread has been a wealth of information!!
I hope now that you got another thread going that you don't let this one die. Thanks GG!
The reason I ask is because I don't know which chart to use to compare the led charts to the 1000w light output as one shows double the umoles as the other. Also, I can't seem to find a par chart for a 600w hps anywhere and it would be nice to have that info available for comparison as well, so if you know where one is please do share.
I'm currently running 1k's and I can definitely see a change in bud size and structure at about 2' or so out from the center point of the bulb. When I make the switch to led's I want to make sure they will deliver that same intensity as that inner area (and hopefully spread it out even better) especially since I'm going to be adding co2 as well (just got set up to try it out on my next rotation).
Thanks for sharing your tests, charts, and grows with everyone here, this thread has been a wealth of information!!
I hope now that you got another thread going that you don't let this one die. Thanks GG!
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Hey Green, I was comparing par graphs - the one you made, A51's, and the Growershouse bulb and ballast comparisons and I noticed something that puzzles me about the Growershouse charts. (I'll see if I can figure out how to add them into my post below) On the bulb test they where getting 1800-1900+ on center and around 1000 at the 2x2, but on the ballast test they where only getting half of those readings using the bulb that did the best on the bulb test. Both charts where done at a 24" height and the only thing different is the reflector they used. I don't see how changing reflectors can cut your par readings in half, and I was hoping you know why there is such a big discrepancy.
The reason I ask is because I don't know which chart to use to compare the led charts to the 1000w light output as one shows double the umoles as the other. Also, I can't seem to find a par chart for a 600w hps anywhere and it would be nice to have that info available for comparison as well, so if you know where one is please do share.
I'm currently running 1k's and I can definitely see a change in bud size and structure at about 2' or so out from the center point of the bulb. When I make the switch to led's I want to make sure they will deliver that same intensity as that inner area (and hopefully spread it out even better) especially since I'm going to be adding co2 as well (just got set up to try it out on my next rotation).
Thanks for sharing your tests, charts, and grows with everyone here, this thread has been a wealth of information!!
You pretty much got it...the difference is the reflector. But the reflect is different in 2 ways. The biggest is that the OG's bulb is vertical and is what makes it so good.
Then in addition to it being vertical, they cover the vents with reflective and still air cool it. There pattern is special designed to be intense to. Basically, the OG was designed to be the most intense possible. But it will not cover as much as a raptor that has less peak intensity. Since they were using the same bulbs in the test, it was actually all the same amount of light(PPF) just distributed differently(and some wasted more than others).
Check all these tests they did with reflectors...http://growershouse.com/blog/category/reflectors/.
They never show it all together, but the OG, with a solis tech ballast, and the hortilux super hps is the gnarliest combo. But they also have never done a gavita test yet. So we have to just gather all the info and interpret it the best we can.
long story short I use the ballast test as the standard to compare. It has the best bulb with every ballast, and the reflector is actually a very common quality used by the majority of gardeners. Even most of the big time growers don't use raptors or OG so the reflector being average I think makes it even better of a graph to look at. But I use the dream hps combo as a guideline of possibilities. I used to be all about hitting 2000umols since that is what he sun can do. But have settled/learned 1000-1300 is perfect, specially if the outer intensity is good too. I have no doubts about a good healthy plants doing great in 1500+umols intensity. There is the point of diminishing returns and also the saturation point, both of which can be raised by adding co2. The levels basically are the plant saying that we are going as fast as we can but there is not enough of everything else(water, nutrients, air...) to use all the light. So if your can make sure all those are up to par too, it will be effective to use the more light. And just a note, normal nutrient ppm are plenty to keep up with the light...it's just the co2 that is lacking at that point.
I am really curious to see some bare vertical bulb test, and also some wing and standard umbrella fixtures(vertical and horizontal)
Here is a video I did my old place and I show a 600hps par reading a little. It's not the most official but gives an idea.
[video]https://youtube.com/watch?v=PeJBDQlvp7M[/video]
Sorry for the long unorganized babble. Hope it helps.
EDIT:
I did start a new thread...
https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/763210-greengenes-apache-at600-garden-blackberry.html