The Art of The Auto

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
Ha, found your thread bro!! :)
Glad you are here my friend. Wouldnt be the same with out you. Now that were back in the swing of things we can get this purp hyb project back in order.

Best advice I can give all that wanna give autos a try....
Was gonna rep you for this info bro but it wont let me says i need to give some to someone else.....

Non the less this was a great addition and good info for the noobs lurking and want to know more about our world. Ill be watching that autobot thread a lot closer now...
 

DDS

Member
Great thread, I wish I had found it a little earlier. I recently started my first grow ever with easy ryders. I think I've stunted all of them though, dammit. I planted two in an AeroGarden and one in a small pot in soil. The AG ones weren't doing well so I transplanted them into soil as well. I put one in its own 3 gal pot and put the other in the pot with the original one that was in soil. This was exactly one week from when the seeds had a taproot and were put in the AG.

The original was really taking off around day 10 and the AG ones were doing ok so I had to transplant the original and the weaker AG one. I put them each in their own 3 gal pot and while the smaller AG plant has been doing ok, the original soil one is dying. I think I didn't water her enough after the transplant. I've been watering her more and it seems like she'll make it. The bottom leaves are dead but the new ones seem ok. The other two are doing fine and the smaller AG one is starting to grow more rapidly now (she had stayed small for a while).

Anyway, do you think all three of these plants are doomed? I'm thinking the one that I didn't transplant should be okay, and she's certainly the biggest (by far) and healthiest one. The other healthy one is just growing kind of slowly and has a weird root structure (it went up all the way to the seed basically then turned and came back down), although I'm hoping now that she's in her permanent home she'll chill and grow. Here are some pics from the day after the transplant (two days ago exactly). I'll post current pics later. Thanks for any thoughts/tips/advice.
 

Attachments

DDS

Member
Here are some pics from a minute ago. They are two weeks old today. Sorry they're not in the same order as the post above. The first picture here is the last picture above, the middle picture is the first picture above and the last picture is the middle pic. Confusing enough?
 

Attachments

uptosumpn

Well-Known Member
Glad you are here my friend. Wouldnt be the same with out you. Now that were back in the swing of things we can get this purp hyb project back in order.
Thanks for the nod! :) and you are so right about that...let's go hybrids!!!!


Was gonna rep you for this info bro but it wont let me says i need to give some to someone else.....
it's all gravy, I know the deal.....

Ill be watching that autobot thread a lot closer now...
I appreciate it.....
 

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
Great thread, I wish I had found it a little earlier. I recently started my first grow ever with easy ryders. I think I've stunted all of them though, dammit. I planted two in an AeroGarden and one in a small pot in soil. The AG ones weren't doing well so I transplanted them into soil as well. I put one in its own 3 gal pot and put the other in the pot with the original one that was in soil. This was exactly one week from when the seeds had a taproot and were put in the AG.

The original was really taking off around day 10 and the AG ones were doing ok so I had to transplant the original and the weaker AG one. I put them each in their own 3 gal pot and while the smaller AG plant has been doing ok, the original soil one is dying. I think I didn't water her enough after the transplant. I've been watering her more and it seems like she'll make it. The bottom leaves are dead but the new ones seem ok. The other two are doing fine and the smaller AG one is starting to grow more rapidly now (she had stayed small for a while).

Anyway, do you think all three of these plants are doomed? I'm thinking the one that I didn't transplant should be okay, and she's certainly the biggest (by far) and healthiest one. The other healthy one is just growing kind of slowly and has a weird root structure (it went up all the way to the seed basically then turned and came back down), although I'm hoping now that she's in her permanent home she'll chill and grow. Here are some pics from the day after the transplant (two days ago exactly). I'll post current pics later. Thanks for any thoughts/tips/advice.

Couple things here.....

First off dont let this turn you away from auto's. What I think happened here was too much movement/transplant shock. The root system seems to be the essential key to the AF. Apparently its delicate, more so that what you would see on a photo period plant. The thing here to remember is this, once you plant it leave it, if you want to transplant it do it before the 2 week mark. This will help keep the root ball protected by a thin layer of dirt. The idea is to get it to its final resting place as soon as you can.

I like to start in a jiffy pellet and then move it to its final home once it pops out of the soil, then right under the light with a R/H dome. One other thing that i can recommend is get some decent soil. I don't use anything from the store, all of mine is natural compost of my own mix. Always remember when mixing soil if you think that there is enough perlite in the soil add two cups more, these plants love light soil.

Good luck with these guys i think that they may pull through, the damage is pretty severe on them, but i do know that these things have hearts like lions, get your water Ph'ed
 

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
So i guess the first topic ill start on is a little secret of mine. This is available to everyone and the best part about it is that its free. It contains high levels of life sustaining minerals and can do magical things to your grow.

I know that several of you soil growers focus on using RO water or distilled water. Something that has not gone through the city treatment plant is usually ideal. Most of the chemicals, such as chlorine, can take a toll on our precious ladies. Not to mention the fact that it has a pH typically some where in the seven range. So with those two items in mind you can already see the issues with using water from the tap. Its almost as you have to revert it back to a natural state kind in the same fashion that RO does.

This is the main reason that i do not use tap water at all! I take too much pride and time into each and every plant i start to have them destroyed by attempting to give them what they need to survive. So i had to come to a solution in where i didn't have to go to the store all the time and purchase distilled or RO water. Or even worse sink more money into a RO system for the home. So i started doing what I know best and have done for years as a Veggie Gardner. I started harvesting rain water.

Now most of you may think that there isnt much that this stuff can do over RO water or distilled water but i beg to differ. Before you decide to skip to the next thread hear me out a little. I started using rain water on my plants about a year ago. There are a few things that i do to the water before feeding, and ill cover them, that help keep it balanced. First thing that I will tell you is that it falls at almost the ideal pH range for our ladies, coming in at anywhere from 5.0-6.0. Almost every ounce i have harvested has been right at 5.8-6.0, and i just add a buffer to the water to maintain the same pH level until that gallon is gone. Now this may vary form area to area based upon climate conditions and pollution, which results in acid rain, in the area.

When i was using RO water i would have to constantly monitor the pH, whether in soil or hydro, and most of the time i had to take it down like most of us do. This was a pain in the ass to me. There are already enough things that i have to monitor and look at that i didn't really need another and i had to find a solution to this to make it work like clock work. I wanted to be able to test the water at anytime and get the same results as i did the last time i checked levels and it be persistent. I tried a few things to develop a more balanced consistency in the water and with the RO this did not happen. Leading me to find something cheaper as well as more stable. This is when i began to place buckets out side and catch a little rain water and begin my testing.

First round went well, after collecting a little over a gallon of water i began my first set of tests. The water at that time came in at 5.9, so i decided not to buffer it and see how many days it took to balance out to 7. It took 5 days to come all the way back to 7. In my experience with RO water it was back to 7 in 2-3 days. So this cut some of the time i was spending checking levels in my water back. Then i decided to buffer the water to 6.0 with a solid pH up additive. After making this change to the water i was able to hold the water at 6 for over a week. This was great for me. I now could check the water once a week and know that i know its the correct pH. Mind you i am very obsessed with the pH of my water as i have learned it can destroy everything you have worked so hard for.

So with this new found access to free life essentials for my ladies i began pushing it further. I wanted to get as much out of what i had as well as keep it fresh and clean for my ladies. After a few more tests and placing a few theories into place i found a way to keep the water pH perfect and loaded with Oxygen for the entire time the water was being used. I typically prepare two gallons at a time as i keep a small grow most of the time. I am in this for two things, the joy of botany and personal consumption. I dont believe in making a profit off of something that God has given us free.

I have the advantage of having an additional fridge in my garage that is only being used for the freezer, so i had tons of room to store the water chilled. This was part of the process of keeping the water at good pH levels. Not only did this assist in keeping the pH levels right but it also prevented any bacteria that may be in the raw water from growing, so no disease. Once i began this i realized that over time of storage that the water would loose any oxygen that it had in it. I needed to find a way to keep it in there as i used the water for feeding. Now i usually feed every three days, unless the soil becomes dry before then, but with in those three days i know the levels of O were depleating and by the time i reached the end of the res the O levels had to be minimal if any. So i figured that i would give something a try that i knew kept another form of life alive for quite some time in water. This was the little tabs from Wal-mart you can get for your portable Minnow bucket Yes they sell little tablets that you can place in the water to keep O levels at peak for any reason, whether it be minnows, or in my case high levels of O for a special root system.

Now that time has passed i have this system in full operation with pumps now rather than placing a tab in the water every three days. So with the water being chilled, and Oxygen levels staying high i no longer have to buffer my water except for the time i place it into the "feed" res. Once in there it stays at 5.9 till the last drop, and ive tested that last drop lol. i have had amazing results using this method. Like i stated above i have had to purchase any water since, i have a few collectors out back now that catch and filter out the leaves and other garbage, and i have an unlimited supply for both my veggie garden as well as my "herb" garden.
 

klmmicro

Well-Known Member
Great thread! Thank you for sharing the information. I have grown some LR#2 off and on for a couple of years now. I always end up with a male and have plenty of seeds to work with. I usually only get about a half ounce per plant and it would seem that I am doing something to cause the low yield. My photo-period grows are done in #2 pots with steady nutrients. I get yields of up to 2 ounces per. I guess I could try larger #3 pots for LR#2 and see where that takes it!
 

uptosumpn

Well-Known Member
So i guess the first topic ill start on is a little secret of mine. This is available to everyone and the best part about it is that its free. It contains high levels of life sustaining minerals and can do magical things to your grow.

I know that several of you soil growers focus on using RO water or distilled water. Something that has not gone through the city treatment plant is usually ideal. Most of the chemicals, such as chlorine, can take a toll on our precious ladies. Not to mention the fact that it has a pH typically some where in the seven range. So with those two items in mind you can already see the issues with using water from the tap. Its almost as you have to revert it back to a natural state kind in the same fashion that RO does.

This is the main reason that i do not use tap water at all! I take too much pride and time into each and every plant i start to have them destroyed by attempting to give them what they need to survive. So i had to come to a solution in where i didn't have to go to the store all the time and purchase distilled or RO water. Or even worse sink more money into a RO system for the home. So i started doing what I know best and have done for years as a Veggie Gardner. I started harvesting rain water.

Now most of you may think that there isnt much that this stuff can do over RO water or distilled water but i beg to differ. Before you decide to skip to the next thread hear me out a little. I started using rain water on my plants about a year ago. There are a few things that i do to the water before feeding, and ill cover them, that help keep it balanced. First thing that I will tell you is that it falls at almost the ideal pH range for our ladies, coming in at anywhere from 5.0-6.0. Almost every ounce i have harvested has been right at 5.8-6.0, and i just add a buffer to the water to maintain the same pH level until that gallon is gone. Now this may vary form area to area based upon climate conditions and pollution, which results in acid rain, in the area.

When i was using RO water i would have to constantly monitor the pH, whether in soil or hydro, and most of the time i had to take it down like most of us do. This was a pain in the ass to me. There are already enough things that i have to monitor and look at that i didn't really need another and i had to find a solution to this to make it work like clock work. I wanted to be able to test the water at anytime and get the same results as i did the last time i checked levels and it be persistent. I tried a few things to develop a more balanced consistency in the water and with the RO this did not happen. Leading me to find something cheaper as well as more stable. This is when i began to place buckets out side and catch a little rain water and begin my testing.

First round went well, after collecting a little over a gallon of water i began my first set of tests. The water at that time came in at 5.9, so i decided not to buffer it and see how many days it took to balance out to 7. It took 5 days to come all the way back to 7. In my experience with RO water it was back to 7 in 2-3 days. So this cut some of the time i was spending checking levels in my water back. Then i decided to buffer the water to 6.0 with a solid pH up additive. After making this change to the water i was able to hold the water at 6 for over a week. This was great for me. I now could check the water once a week and know that i know its the correct pH. Mind you i am very obsessed with the pH of my water as i have learned it can destroy everything you have worked so hard for.

So with this new found access to free life essentials for my ladies i began pushing it further. I wanted to get as much out of what i had as well as keep it fresh and clean for my ladies. After a few more tests and placing a few theories into place i found a way to keep the water pH perfect and loaded with Oxygen for the entire time the water was being used. I typically prepare two gallons at a time as i keep a small grow most of the time. I am in this for two things, the joy of botany and personal consumption. I dont believe in making a profit off of something that God has given us free.

I have the advantage of having an additional fridge in my garage that is only being used for the freezer, so i had tons of room to store the water chilled. This was part of the process of keeping the water at good pH levels. Not only did this assist in keeping the pH levels right but it also prevented any bacteria that may be in the raw water from growing, so no disease. Once i began this i realized that over time of storage that the water would loose any oxygen that it had in it. I needed to find a way to keep it in there as i used the water for feeding. Now i usually feed every three days, unless the soil becomes dry before then, but with in those three days i know the levels of O were depleating and by the time i reached the end of the res the O levels had to be minimal if any. So i figured that i would give something a try that i knew kept another form of life alive for quite some time in water. This was the little tabs from Wal-mart you can get for your portable Minnow bucket Yes they sell little tablets that you can place in the water to keep O levels at peak for any reason, whether it be minnows, or in my case high levels of O for a special root system.

Now that time has passed i have this system in full operation with pumps now rather than placing a tab in the water every three days. So with the water being chilled, and Oxygen levels staying high i no longer have to buffer my water except for the time i place it into the "feed" res. Once in there it stays at 5.9 till the last drop, and ive tested that last drop lol. i have had amazing results using this method. Like i stated above i have had to purchase any water since, i have a few collectors out back now that catch and filter out the leaves and other garbage, and i have an unlimited supply for both my veggie garden as well as my "herb" garden.
See, this is what i'm talking about....it's post like these you dont see, but is needed for all to learn from...just from this post alone it deserves to be a sticky AND a dedicated auto section.....[YA HEAR ME MODS!??] That has to be one of the best single post I haved ever read on this site...PERIOD!!! Great Job my friend!!! Gonna implement this to the fullest from now-on....TO ALL NOOBS, PH IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO YOUR PLANTS HEALTH AND STARTING WITH WELL OXYGENATED/PH BAL WATER IS A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS & WICKED LOOKIN PLANTS....CHECK YOUR FORCAST PEOPLES & GET YA BUCKETS READY!!!<HOMEDEPOT GOT PLENTY OF 5GAL ONEZ....
 

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
See, this is what i'm talking about....it's post like these you dont see, but is needed for all to learn from...just from this post alone it deserves to be a sticky AND a dedicated auto section.....[YA HEAR ME MODS!??] That has to be one of the best single post I haved ever read on this site...PERIOD!!! Great Job my friend!!! Gonna implement this to the fullest from now-on....TO ALL NOOBS, PH IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO YOUR PLANTS HEALTH AND STARTING WITH WELL OXYGENATED/PH BAL WATER IS A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS & WICKED LOOKIN PLANTS....CHECK YOUR FORCAST PEOPLES & GET YA BUCKETS READY!!!<HOMEDEPOT GOT PLENTY OF 5GAL ONEZ....
I think that you will like the results with this. I have recently discovered a new additive to add to the rain water when feeding. Seems that seaweed kelp is a great stimulator. I have been adding it to the rain water now for about a month and i can tell it has accelerated the growth pattern.
 

KuLong

Well-Known Member
I have been adding it to the rain water now for about a month and i can tell it has accelerated the growth pattern.
Fellow auto lover here. ;)

How much kelp do you add per gallon of water?

I just bought some kelp and was going to play around with it.
 

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
There are some key debates that i often see in a majority of cannabis boards. Most of them deal with light, soils, ferts, and the most famous "is it ready?" There is one however, that i see asked quite a bit but never really see any answer to other than general ideas. So I thought i would share my thoughts on this.

Should I trim my plants? Depends or does it? I see this pop up from time to time and the answers are usually vague. I my self have been guilty of posting short one line answers for this, but in detail its all most too much for someones thread. One of the key points to the life of a plant is the ability for it to store food and then metabolize it and turn in into energy to grow. In its vegetative state the plant begins to warehouse this energy into its larger fan leaves for later usage. As it grows it develops several of these warehouses until it reaches maturity, either by nature or control, and then moves its energy to producing flowers.

As we feed these plants ferts over there life span, we give the plant something to boost the level of energy that it stores. So with that in mind think about this. Over the course of its life we monitor the levels of nutrients we apply in order to find the max we can feed them with out burning them, that way in the end we can benefit from the results of or hard work. But if we strip this away what have we worked for?

In the past i have done my fair share of clipping and manicuring, i have also learned many things from it. Hense my motto "the less you mess with them, the less you stress them." I don't know what it is about cannabis cultivators having the itch to snip and clip. For some reason there is some little monster in all of us that likes to use scissors on plants....

With that being said I will go over the times i have found useful as well as a mistake. My first grow was in a DWC set up that i made from scratch. First off this was a challenge for me as it not only was my first DWC, it was my first grow ever. There was TONS of learning involved. At about 5 inches i decided to top. End result was a bush as intended but with the beginning of 4 new branches. As she grew she bushed over the edges of the bucket she was in. As she grew the bottom leaves were showing evident signs that they were not getting enough light. There were new side branching sites that were three nodes high but all had a three leave pattern. This showed that that the bottom was not getting enough light to mature properly. As the nodes grow the leaves should two. 1, 3, 5 and so on and so forth. As long as there is proper light and nitrogen in the veg state they should progress in this manner. I have had all the way up to 11.

So i clipped them. I clipped the bottom eighth of the plant. Removing anything that did not show progressive growth. The result of this was more than i can handle. I removed a section of the plant that was doing nothing but being dormant. I saw the plant as wasting energy on keeping something undeveloped alive. The tops of the plant exploded. I think from two things, the massive amounts of O2 the roots were receiving, allowing production of new growth, and the fact that the plant could focus its energy upward now. Long story short i had to super crop the top into flower resulting in out growth of the box and small tops .... Like i said learned a thing or two.


There are adverse effects on plants when too much trimming is done. It doesn't harm the plant it just tends to slow the plant down. In the world of the auto slowing a plant down has bad effects. Autos have no real recover time and need to be messed with as little as possible for them to reach their full potential.

I see some hydro and soil growers a like take 1/3 or more of the bottom of the plant. If this is taken late into veg this WILL impact the results of your buds. If you removed the ware house there is no food stock. the sugar leaves that are laced in between the buds are not enough to feed her. You'll notice yourself feeding her higher levels of ferts in the end as she finishes, due to the fact she has no natural food to pull from. This often makes for a harsh smoke as the levels of ferts in the medium is high and requires a heavy flush.

If you allow the plant to naturally use the food stored in its fan leaves its giving the plant exactly what it needs, when it needs it. By removing the nutrients out of the soil you force the plant to eat its self and during the end of flower this, i think, is key. If you remove the warehouses the plant has noting to rely on other than what you were feeding it. So you have done two things, removed its food stock and flushed out all the food you were putting in the soil. Giving the buds nothing to swell with. During the last weeks of her life she is going to work the hardest and i think for her to be efficient she needs that natural source of food.

I can tell you this. During my past grows i didnt remove one leaf in order to test the natural ability of this plant. I wanted to see her in her full potential under the best conditions i could provide, and she thanked me. I now remove a few fans that have faded out fully to yellow as they are technically dead. The result of this was good as this allowed some more air into the thick head bud and the one bud below has swollen almost double in the last day due to new light. As she yellows more and more each day the buds get fatter and fatter, and i see fields of resin getting milkier and milkier. This alone makes a believer out of me.
 

crazytrain14

Well-Known Member
i feel the same way dude. im glad you have taked the time to type this out for people that love to clip away. i tried to rep ya for the thread but it says ive gotts spead a lil bit around so plus make believe rep to ya man lol. if you get a minute take a look at my current journal in my sig.

peace
 

uptosumpn

Well-Known Member
I think that you will like the results with this. I have recently discovered a new additive to add to the rain water when feeding. Seems that seaweed kelp is a great stimulator. I have been adding it to the rain water now for about a month and i can tell it has accelerated the growth pattern.
REALLY? Hmm, very interesting.....do you put this in the water while bubbling or after,(right before feeding) that shit would rock in DWC, I bet...any particular brand of seaweed kelp??
 

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
i feel the same way dude. im glad you have taked the time to type this out for people that love to clip away. i tried to rep ya for the thread but it says ive gotts spead a lil bit around so plus make believe rep to ya man lol. if you get a minute take a look at my current journal in my sig.

peace
Any time i just want to get my experiences out there and share them with the rest. I hope that some read this and think twice about trimming as well as autos all together. I have a ton more info to put up here but ill do it a day at a time. Kinda like a daily report on autos.

REALLY? Hmm, very interesting.....do you put this in the water while bubbling or after,(right before feeding) that shit would rock in DWC, I bet...any particular brand of seaweed kelp??
I am using the Maxicrop brand ( can be found here best price ive seen so far Seaweed Kelp)

This stuff is alive with all kinds of stuff and has a massive source of Micros and vitamins and is fantastic for roots. There is a whole description there on it.

There are two things about when to add this. In a DWC setup i would say add it at res change. The o2 in there will be enough to bubble the kelp to potential. As far as soil feeding goes, i mix it in as i make the gallon. I start with 1/2 gal of rain water, add my buffer and tea then i add the kelp. Fill the jug the rest of the way, add air line, let sit and bubble for a min of 24 hrs before i use. Lets the water get saturated with o2 as well as equally mix up the ingredients.

I think that if you add this to a DWC set up it should make things get huge. this also brings me to my next article. Im gonna do Teas, soils, and ferts. This way i can share what i use as well as my results hoping to simplify a few out theres feed regimens.
Its really amazing what i have learned about what cannabis really needs as far as ferts go. They really dont need as much as we give them. I know that we like to make sure that out harvests are plentiful, but i have been able to make mine out standing with just a few simple things. Best part about it all is that its organic and im am hardly using any synthetics any more. i throw in Tiger bloom and GB every now and then but this time its all been my teas and hand mixed compost/soil.
 

henery

Active Member
I really don't see the point why don't ya just flower photo plants from clone or seed its the same thing just no ditch weed mixed in!
 

FullDuplex

Well-Known Member
I really don't see the point why don't ya just flower photo plants from clone or seed its the same thing just no ditch weed mixed in!
Its funny that you mention that. 12/12 from seed is completely different from what auto's do.

Autos DO have a veg period, its short and fast but it is there.

12/12 from clone or seed plants are not stable, you may get 7g's from one and then 20g's from another. Autos have a consistency, at least the ones that i have grown do, i have yet to harvest less than 25g from a plant. everything that i have grown has been 25+. Ill take that any day over the chance of a low yield.

A true auto will only take 8-9 weeks to develop a mature, raised bulbous tric. Most photo plants grown under 12/12 from start will take longer than that to develop and mature. I have seen this first hand. This is the main reason that i went to autos.

Now the comment about ditch weed is far fetched. If you want to know the truth, the original genetic make up of the plant that was used to make the LR#1 was Ruderalis. At first i am sure that the potency of the first auto out there was low but thats because Ruderalis in nature are higher in CBD than THC. Now they have been crossed with Indicas and sativas to produce what you are seeing today and there only getting better. So yeah back in the day i can see this being said as ditch weed, but not now. The advancements have been outstanding, and the crosses are getting better. Breeders of autos will put there strains up against photo girls any day. I know I would.

If you take a look at the beginning of the thread you will see some of the hybrids i have grown as well as a few others. I promise you if i handed you a bud from one of the autos i have grown and then handed you one from a long season girl you wouldn't be able to tell the difference, in appearance or quality.

But now my question have you personally ever grown an auto?
 

superbub52

Well-Known Member
lovely post auto's have come a far way as far as different strains go i kinda messed up my first grow by not growing only autos and haveing other not flowering strains in the same space and they kinda out grew my box but u live and you learn but have more auto seeds and will deffo go at it with my experiance ive obtained from my noob grows but loving this post
 
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