The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

[acidbox420]

pk13/14 is ment for earlyer on in flowering just look at jberry response to one of my post's

yes I would start using it at half strength now... if you are using the A/B at full strength then u may want to cut it back a little as you introduce the PK 13/14.

PK products with ratios like 19/8 are better suited for finishing (last 3 weeks of flower)

Almost any common flowering ratios/techniques will "work" but not everything is optimal.

and this is what my plants looked like





JR what PK ratio you useing?

 

[Snow Crash]

pk13/14 is meant for earlier on in flowering. Just look at jberry's response to one of my posts.

yes I would start using it at half strength now... if you are using the A/B at full strength then u may want to cut it back a little as you introduce the PK 13/14.

PK products with ratios like 19/8 are better suited for finishing (last 3 weeks of flower)

Almost any common flowering ratios/techniques will "work" but not everything is optimal.

and this is what my plants looked like

View attachment 1244754

JR what PK ratio you using?

The Edges of your plant show heat stress and potassium deficiency. You should address those issues and try the white balance on your camera to take a picture that gives a realistic depiction of the colors of the plant.

Like this:


Canna advertises PK 13/14 (0-10-11) as:
There comes a moment during the plant’s development when the need for phosphorous and potassium increases greatly. If CANNA PK 13/14 is given at this moment you will satisfy the flowering plant’s increased needs and the fruits will achieve maximum development.

The Canna feeding Calculator suggests using it during the Generative Stage as "small fruits develop" prior to the Generative fruit Increases in size phase.

I find that most strains are 9 to 10 week strains. The first 2 weeks are the stretch phase, the next 3 weeks are the generative stage. The 5th and 6th weeks are the transitional time and this is the window when it makes most sense to apply PK 13/14. A constant bloom supplement like CannaBoost, Big Bud, or KoolBloom is used throughout flowering to provide that extra boost of PK. The product PK 13/14 is meant for use only during a short period of time.

Experience has taught me that the best time to apply the product is around the 6th week of flowering, about 40 days after starting 12/12 on a 65 day strain. The last week of flowering is spent ripening, but the two weeks before that are all swelling and having that PK boost just before the swelling really helps the plant change phases.

 

[LesterBurnum]

Hi there iuim a newby can u tell me if its ok to use

rhizo, canna boost , canna A and B all together and use the recomended amounts on the bottle or is this too much? im into second week of flower?

Yo Boomshank,
Sorry it took me a bit to chime in on your question. I don't know if you have tested your tap water or not. But you should be adding some cal/mag before adding the other nutes. Where I live we have great water, 40 ppm, but I still add cal/mag to about 180 ppm or so. And by doing this I have gotten rid of all of my preliminary cal, mag and pottasium defficiencies I was experiencing when I first started with coco. So just my two cents bro.
Lates

 

[PUKKA BUD]

The PK 13/14 is only meant to be used during a very short period of time. Typically around the 6th week of flowering, and only for 2 to 6 feedings in total.

Flowers shift from a setting and building phase into a swelling phase. During this period of time when the plant is changing phases it is in need for phosphorus and potassium. Timing is the key and this will minimize the "lag" and maximize the speed of switching to vigorous swelling.

No one can do anything about those leaves. They are 100% completely dead. They could have died of anything given the pictures that we have to go on because they are so far gone. But, if you've been running the pk 13/14 the whole time then that is probably a contributer. Also, your EC seems REALLY high, especially of the A+B, the max EC I'd use is about 1.8. Even that is only for a short period of time during flowering.

Without seeing more of the plant and leaves in the midst of being sick then I think the problem is over feeding. My advice is to lower the EC of your solution a good 0.4 to 0.5 so that you're just under 1.8 EC. Also, stop using the PK 13/14 until you're in the 6th week of flowering. Flush the media and establish a fresh buffer if the problem continues after 1 week.

pk13/14 is ment for earlyer on in flowering just look at jberry response to one of my post's




and this is what my plants looked like

View attachment 1244754



JR what PK ratio you useing?

hi guys this is what info i already got off this thread

PK 13/14

i use it for almost 3 weeks...at 4 ml per gallon for the most part...

i start using it a few days after the flowers develop a bunch of pistols and stop when the nugs are finished linking together... by week 6 im done using it.

the plant only needs the pk for around 7-10 days, but to make sure i give it on the exact 7-10 days it is needed, i start early and end late... and canna assured me it wouldnt have any ill side effects...

i still pump it up to 6ml per gallon during the 7 days that i suspect to be the pk sweet spot.

it depends on how long your flower time is also... if you had a 12 week flower time, than you wouldnt want to use it until like week 8 or something like that.


i believe it calls for around 6ml/gal. If i added 6 ml/gal and my regular base nutes it would be some crazy 2000+ppm. What i've always done is cut my base nutes in half, water at 2ml/gal first time, 3 ml/gal 2nd time, 4.5ml/gal 3rd time.

PK tends to be best used in a 7 - 10 day window starting about the time you see first flower formation. This typically, on an 8 week flower response group, to be about 5 weeks before harvest or 2-3 weeks after flower initiation (not light change). Adding it early will not advance or benefit flower initiation, only the amount of dark the plant sees will initiation flowering. Adding too early could result in phosphate accumulation and ratio issues involving Ca and Mg

hope this helps
lates

 

[jberry]

I use the PK 13/14 through the first weeks of bloom for flower development and a high P fert like a MOAB or Shooting Powder for adding girth/weight during the last couple of weeks and after the flower has devoloped most of the way... Many companies like House & Garden have feeding charts suggesting this method of feeding but canna doesnt make a powerful P fert so you wont see it on their chart.

*Flushing out a high P powdered fert like shooting powder can be difficult, so if you plan on reusing your coco then you may want to avoid such ferts or flush extra well.

 

[LIBERTY MEDICAL]

any idea why canna dosent sell or make cal-mag?

 

[jberry]

Ive also found that flowering cannabis plants tend to handle and like much more Magnesium then most nutes provide(some may have plenty Mg in their tap water though)... Iron can usually stand to be slightly increased also.

Also, Canna nutes are lacking a lot of Micro Nutrients so supplementing with micros is something that I always do.

 

[jberry]

any idea why canna dosent sell or make cal-mag?

they do but only in the UK

 

[Snow Crash]

Yeah, Canna has an entire line of Mono Nutrients (just N, just K, just Mg... etc). Unfortunately they don't retail in the US, so finding them and shipping them is a bitch. You can contact Canna directly, they are pretty good with responding to "where can I get X at" questions.

I personally prefer to use calcium and magnesium separately. I tried Organicare Calplex and Huvega with mediocre results. You need to use 30ml per gallon of the Huvega, and in a 55 gallon reservoir... eeyah, got expensive in a hurry during bloom. I'm currently trying out Humboldt Nutrients Sea Mag and ground Oyster Shells in coco. My goal is Hydro-Organic and most Cal-Mag products include EDTA chelation agents which damage the beneficial microbes I spent good money on.

Canna claims that tap water will have all the cal-mag your plant needs. The issue is that the tap water from one city to another is not the same. So sometimes this is true, sometimes it is not, and sometimes the grower has to filter out impurities and can't help but remove the cal-mag and iron in the process.

I think if you're going Hydro, then Cal-Mag Plus and Filtered water is a really excellent combination with Canna.

 

[jberry]

General hydroponics has a new organic line called General Organics and they make a all organic Cal/Mag supplement that also has some sugar carbs added to it... I have been using it for a few months with decent results.. Magical seems to be more beneficial imo but it may also effect quality.

 

[delvite]

hi, im gonna invest in the canna terra range for my next grow. have many ppl had good results? do you know any cheap places? uk

 

[JRTokin]

Without seeing more of the plant and leaves in the midst of being sick then I think the problem is over feeding. My advice is to lower the EC of your solution a good 0.4 to 0.5 so that you're just under 1.8 EC. Also, stop using the PK 13/14 until you're in the 6th week of flowering. Flush the media and establish a fresh buffer if the problem continues after 1 week.

Thanks snow, yeah sorry just noticed the burn on leaf tips, thanks for pointing that 1 out

 

[JRTokin]

Any ideas how i would go about flushing at this stage? The tops of the plants are also looking quite dry. Is this salvageable?

Just also wondered could this be the reason for the g13 looking quite thin and whispy as she does in her photos?

I just hope i can get things on track...

@Pukka how do i go about establishing a fresh buffer? i really dont want to do this if im going to wash all the goodness out of the coco.

 

[PUKKA BUD]

Any ideas how i would go about flushing at this stage? The tops of the plants are also looking quite dry. Is this salvageable?

Just also wondered could this be the reason for the g13 looking quite thin and whispy as she does in her photos?

I just hope i can get things on track...

@Pukka how do i go about establishing a fresh buffer? i really dont want to do this if im going to wash all the goodness out of the coco.

i wouldnt flush with just water mate ive read on this thread many times you shouldnt flush coco or you risk washing away your buffers an your beneficial bacteria you required if youve other fed them id jus cut out the pk for a while an cut back the a&b like half strenth or somethin as for establishing a fresh buffer i dont no mate ask snow he's the 1 that mentioned it but all i can say is ive not read anything else about it on this thread so dont no if its possible

if your in the 2nd week of flower uve got 1-3 weeks or when you get a load of pistals before you want to start adding the pk an when you do drop your a&b a little.

hope this helps bud
lates

 

[PUKKA BUD]

Any ideas how i would go about flushing at this stage? The tops of the plants are also looking quite dry. Is this salvageable?

Just also wondered could this be the reason for the g13 looking quite thin and whispy as she does in her photos?

I just hope i can get things on track...

@Pukka how do i go about establishing a fresh buffer? i really dont want to do this if im going to wash all the goodness out of the coco.

sorry mate ive just read back an your on the 4th week of flower goin on to the 5th so you should be nearly done usin the pk any way so jus im gessin the problem was you didnt lower the A&B when usin the pk an thats whats burnt them also your usin some other products with the boost (topmax and fulvic) these may be causing the burn id do some resurch if i was you an see if there ok to use with the canna range, i think you should a waited till you'd stop usin the pk before you used the topmax im not 100% sure so some 1 on here will let you no! so jus lower your EC down like snow said an things should be ok

lates

 

[JRTokin]

Yeah cheers for that pukka i know a few people have said not to flush coco, so im not sure i feel too confident about that. Im going to lower a&b and cut out pk soon

 

[zizou21]

Sup guys first time grower here! just bought some Canna A+B, cal-mag, rhizotonic, cannazym, canna boost, and PK 13-14..

Does anyone know where I can find a rough schedule that I should follow? Something with the proportions I need to be feeding the plants, with what, and when.. This is my first grow so I don't really know what i'm doing and I don't want to butcher my plant

Thanks for any comments or tips

 

[LIBERTY MEDICAL]

a b c & r 10mil/gal cal mag 5mil/gal for veg when you bloom drop rizo 2 3mil/gal and add boost at 10mil/gal with the a b c and cal mag at the same doses
you dont need to add ur boost til a week in to bloom then pk for 1 week on week 4 at 6 mil/gal
hope this helps and check ur ph you may need a drop of down

 

[Snow Crash]

I flushed my plants yesterday. I've been noticing some issues with a few plants recently, been wondering what the deal was.

So I upgraded from just pH testing to ppm and EC testing also. This is when I discovered the run off from my problem plants to be way off the charts. My Meter left just blinking wondering what had happened.

I'm growing in 3 gallon smart pots with pure Botanicare coco that has once been used.

Through the first plant I ran 6 gallons of my water (7.3 pH and 65ppm) and tested the run off at around 680ppm afterwards.

Through the second plant I ran 10 gallons through and tested the run off at 440ppm.

I considered this to mean that there is still a considerable amount of residual left in the media. Is it Potassium? Is it Calcium? Is it a perfect balance? Who knows...

So what I did was prepare a batch of nutrients at 600ppm that included Coco A+B and Liquid KoolBloom (first week of flowering). I used this solution to enrich the media again and they are now just two days from flushing and looking... well... not much worse for the wear.

I know where these problems lead and things get bad in a hurry. Flushing is the best option in the event the coco has retained salts.

Many people advise against flushing coco because they have read that coco "readily releases its buffer" etc, etc. This is sorta true, but in my personal experience it sure doesn't flush clean with 2x the water to coco by the gallon. As long as the coco is fed with a good balanced nutrient right after flushing you will do much more good than harm.

 

[zizou21]

I've never really understood the point of flushing. When should i be flushing with coco? and why? What should I be looking for when I flush? a certain ppm runoff?

I've understood to never flush with pure water since it will destabilize the buffer, or something like that..