The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

n1knightmare

Well-Known Member
Yeah canna nitrogen will work fine. I usually dont feed extra nitrogen in flower but this depends on strain. Some eat more than others. Just watch your leaves and they will tell you everything you need to know.
 

RockstarEnergy

Well-Known Member
hey J hows it going?

i have an autoflower outside in a pot of coco and theres been a few days of rain since i put it out. should i give it a feeding after a rain storm? is rain enough to flush the nutrients out?

thanks!

:peace:&:leaf:
 
ok heres anohter one for you all , i no the numbers on the front of nutrient bottles are the n and p and p i think :P just wondered what numbers i should look for grow and what numbers for bloom. thanks
 

RockstarEnergy

Well-Known Member
ok heres anohter one for you all , i no the numbers on the front of nutrient bottles are the n and p and p i think :P just wondered what numbers i should look for grow and what numbers for bloom. thanks
its NPK not NPP, potassiums symbol is K. and for grow you want the N higher than the PK and for bloom you want more PK and less N.
 

buraka415

Active Member
gardening axiom: 3-2-1 for grow; 1-2-3 for bloom. this is just the ratio of NPK. However there is a lot of proof that MJ specific nutes tend to ignore N during bloom. when N is the most essential nutrient throughout the plants life cycle.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
the final npk for canna coco a&b are: 2.5-2-1.5 but that is if you dont use anything but the A&B.

Calcium should really be considered one of the macros as well because it is used/needed in just as high or higher doses... and when it comes to cannabis, Magnesium is important and used in high amounts as well.

All the 13 elements as well as the beneficial elements are all important imo

The ratios for cannabis really need to be researched a lot more to be certain what is best, but there are literally hundreds of acceptable ratios that will work without issue.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
Any Ideas? Running complete line,H&G Aquaflakes in a 4/1 per/coco mix. 10ml cal mag with city water of -20ppm.
magnesium deficiency... probably a lockout... possibly from using soo much cal/mag (10mL per gallon is way too much)

And why are you using aqua flakes? and why are you using 75% perlite?
 

brookstown

Active Member
magnesium deficiency... probably a lockout... possibly from using soo much cal/mag (10mL per gallon is way too much)

And why are you using aqua flakes? and why are you using 75% perlite?
i thought is was mag def and I slowly came to the 10ml. started every othere feeding and slowly got up to 10. looking much betteer now. using flakes because i run mostly hydro and heard it was fine to run in coco. recently got some H&G coco formula and started this week. run the perlite because i don't like how wet the coco stays. per mix usually dry in 2 days and growth is pretty good, just looking for the great coco flavor.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
hmm, well you probably have a mg lockout from the magnesium/calcium ratios being too far off... this is common in hydro when you use tap water because there is often large amount of calcium in the tap water that the nute companies dont account for when they design the ratios... The end result is too much calcium causing mg to get locked out even when plenty of mg is present.

If your Phosphorus levels get too much higher then your Magnesium levels, then you may get mg lock out from that as well... or it just hasnt been enough time for the mg to set in for the plant to fully recover, but 10ml seems way high to me.
 

LeeroySlim

Active Member
Hey Jb hows things? haven't asked u a question in a while so im due for a couple..... has nothing to do with the canna line or coco, but ive read most of your post and i know that you have experience with Co2 enrichment so here goes.

I currenlty use the whole canna line and im growing in 105litre grow bags vegging indoor and im going to put them in greenhouse when they reach 6ft to flower. temps outside can be as low as 19F or -6C. because of the cold issue im currently sealing it puting a heater and Co2 gen in.
My questions are will this create alot of humidity? so will i need a humidifier?
also if i cant heat the greenhouse to 85F from my understanding i shouldnt run high levels of Co2 caz the plants wont use it?
am i better off sealing it only at night when its at its coldest and run a vent throught the day?
and do u no what other problems i may run into?
and ill finish off with a canna question....I no you folor feed Rizotonic instead of mixin it with the nutes, how often do u foor feed it and do u put anything else in it becides the water and do u still Ph it.
Sorry if all these questions did your head in....lol
 

buraka415

Active Member
question here re: nutes..

local store kicked me down (2) 1L ? containers of Canna Substra Vega A & B. When I run out of the normal Canna A/B lineup, can I use this in the meantime? guy at the shop said they were about the same? I guess the Canna rep was giving them away a few weeks ago when he was there.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
If you arent venting then you may need a dehumidifier... I did. But you may find that your room gets too hot once you arent venting and you have a co2 generator so you may actually need a portable A/C? Both the A/C and dehumidifier will remove water from the air and lower humidity.

dehumidifiers will put out a lot of heat themselves so that could be another way to help heat things up.

You could seal it at night (lights off) and run a dehumidifier to keep it warm.

The co2 is worthless during lights off but the roots still need oxygen so if you do seal it for "lights off" then you may want to consider setting up a timer to vent fresh air in for a few minuts at a time, a few times a night.

Keep the co2 below 1500 ppm and keep it below 600 ppm for the last 2-3 weeks of flowering.

I do add 1/4 strength silica and sometimes fulvic/humic acids as well as amino acids to the rhizo foliar feeds... Basically I add anything that is hard for the roots to absorb (like aminos) or that is going to throw off my ratios if i added it to the rez tank.

As long as the pH is between like 5-8 it will be acceptable but anything in the neighborhood of neutral (7.0) would be best i think...
i usually dont have to pH any of my foliars but if it is low then a little "ph up" may be worth adding because it will actually be benificial for things like preventing/killing molds spores, pm, bud rot, ect... (PH UP kills mold)
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
Canna says you can use the Canna Substra Vega A & B when you are going to be vegging for long periods... like more then 4-5 weeks but if you are doing a short veg then just use the Coco A/B nutes.... I wouldnt used it past day 5 of 12/12 flowering.

I actually wouldn't use it at all, but Canna claims that it is good for long vegging periods over 5 weeks, but I havent seen anything that would make me agree with them... and they also think their CannaBoost is worth 500 bucks a gallon when it just isnt worth much more then sugar water.

It has more K and thats about it as far as I can tell.


question here re: nutes..

local store kicked me down (2) 1L ? containers of Canna Substra Vega A & B. When I run out of the normal Canna A/B lineup, can I use this in the meantime? guy at the shop said they were about the same? I guess the Canna rep was giving them away a few weeks ago when he was there.
 

Apache

Well-Known Member
For Canna Coco...EC of 500 or 700? Because I am mixing 4 gallons of h2o, 90ml a&b,10 lm Rhizotonic, 40ml if cannazym. 30ml cannaboost 2.5ec 1,250 ppm 10ml ph down to 5.8

My tap water is about 50-100ppm also. I am using a Bluelab Truncheon. I think that with that much A&B I would be reading much higher EC reading. I going off the EC X 500 scale.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure i understand your question... what do you mean by EC of 500 or 700?

I know that when canna makes their feeding charts they use the Truncheon meter scaled to .7 to test the ppm's ...

2.5 is as high as I would go in a coco grow.

Everything seems normal to me... 1250 ppm = 2.5 EC as long as your meter is scaled to .5

Most Truncheon meters come scaled to .7 and most Hanna meters come scaled to .5, but i believe most of them can be calibrated to any of the 3 scales used.

Like I said, I'm not sure exactly what you were asking but maybe that helped?


For Canna Coco...EC of 500 or 700? Because I am mixing 4 gallons of h2o, 90ml a&b,10 lm Rhizotonic, 40ml if cannazym. 30ml cannaboost 2.5ec 1,250 ppm 10ml ph down to 5.8

My tap water is about 50-100ppm also. I am using a Bluelab Truncheon. I think that with that much A&B I would be reading much higher EC reading. I going off the EC X 500 scale.
 

Apache

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the response. What I was getting at was 90ml of a&B each for 4 gallons sure seems alot to get to 2.5EC. According to the little Canna COCO card it says to use 10-15ml per gallon A&B, 2ml Rhizotonic,10 Cannazyme, 8-15 Cannaboost to be around 910-1400ppm...

With that said should I be at 2000ppm for what I am using or even higher? Thank you in advance for any help given. Oh and By the way This Canna COCO run is killing my last grow!

Thanks again!
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
ah, well the cannazym and the cannaboost have 0.0 EC and so they dont add any tds/ppm's to your total EC
 
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