The Rev’s vs Subcool’s Super Soil

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
really?? this is a two gallon bucket.. with our system... which is a soil system... veg should never have a bad look to it.. a monkey should be able to keep a plant hearty as hell in veg especially when running soil systems properly. but thats my opinion View attachment 3441479
Again I'm going to ask whats so unhealthy about it. Are you just trying to show off your soil. Your plant is in a two gallon pot mine is in a one gallon pot, yours is twice as big and twice as spindly. I don't get it are trying sell soil,troll me or what. This thread is about the revs vs super soil.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I find the Rev's soil mixes to be very overwhelming for a newb and with alot of unnecessary amendments that an experienced growers knows he doesnt need. Plus who wants to dig out a book to read the crazy recipe everytime you wanna mix up some soil. Man, 1/2 cup of this, 3/4 cup of that, 2 cups this...urghh. No time for that. Same goes for spikes and layers. Even his tea recipes are nuts. If i've learned one thing about organics it's to keep things simple and put the plant in charge. Truth be told, the Rev can grow some killer bud but so can I. He is a super cool cat though and one hell of a nice guy with a fine stable of genetics.
You can certainly omit half the shit Rev includes in his tea recipes. I too am guilty of trying to throw too much at my plants. This was my first truly organic run & I had a hard time getting away from the mentality that if some is good more is better....totally wrong.
TLO is supposed to be a mostly just add clean water method with the occasional tea to keep the microlife popping in the rhizosphere. I think it is because the teas he brews are supposed to end up around 2 gallons diluted 2:1 with straight water. That's going to be a stretch if you've got several large hungry plants in big pots. The TLO methods outlined in the book are intended for small plants in tinyass pots which makes for a fast turnover to the flowering cycle - personally I prefer to veg out a bit longer & grow larger plants that yield more than a zip or 2.
You certainly do not need to dump as much crap into the soil as the Rev is suggesting either but it's nice to have a baseline reference in the book to refer to and some clue as to what to add by how much. I don't even measure the amendments I add to my recycled TLO soil bin- just sorta eyeball it.
 

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
You can certainly omit half the shit Rev includes in his tea recipes. I too am guilty of trying to throw too much at my plants. This was my first truly organic run & I had a hard time getting away from the mentality that if some is good more is better....totally wrong.
TLO is supposed to be a mostly just add clean water method with the occasional tea to keep the microlife popping in the rhizosphere. I think it is because the teas he brews are supposed to end up around 2 gallons diluted 2:1 with straight water. That's going to be a stretch if you've got several large hungry plants in big pots. The TLO methods outlined in the book are intended for small plants in tinyass pots which makes for a fast turnover to the flowering cycle - personally I prefer to veg out a bit longer & grow larger plants that yield more than a zip or 2.
You certainly do not need to dump as much crap into the soil as the Rev is suggesting either but it's nice to have a baseline reference in the book to refer to and some clue as to what to add by how much. I don't even measure the amendments I add to my recycled TLO soil bin- just sorta eyeball it.
You should read this book. grow pics 045.jpg
 

Greenhouse;save

Well-Known Member
do you know anyone with cows or chickens?
I certainly do my bro is a farmer......I also rent my stables out with a chicken and goose pen attached .........loads of horse manure if that would help..........I would LOVE to make my own soil but I just don't no how........although I do grow organic as it is .......
 

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
Definitely read that book!!! It totally changed the way I look at soil.

I started out mixing super soil and had OK results. The plants would burn tips then fade out early so I changed the amendments that I use.

No more blood meal or bone meal. No more dolomite lime, no more organic dry ferts.

I also reduced the amounts of amendments added to the soil. I re-use my soil and have for over a year and a half.

I mix 18 gallons at a time since I use 18 gallon tubs. My current mix is working very well, here is what I do.

1/2 used soil
1/4 Pro-Mix HP
1/4 Happy Frog soil conditioner
aeration material to taste

To this I add 1/4 cup of each amendment. Yes, only 1/4 cup!!!

alfalfa meal
kelp meal
crab meal
oyster shell
humic acid
azomite
epsom salt (could most likely do without this)
green sand (again I re-use my soil)

Dry mix then water and mix again. None of that layering bull crap!
I plant directly into this without cooking and they get 1/2 to 1 gallon of clear water at roughly 7.14 ph every 7-10 days.

Currently I make it to around day 44 or so before I see any fade which is way better than the super soil that started fading around day 18.
I also have discontinued the use of teas. Every time I use any it results in curling, burning, fading or margin yellowing so I just don't do it any more reinforcing the less is more ideology.

I made the changes after reading Teaming with Microbes and am very happy I did. I also have retired my roto-tiller and no longer till my garden.
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Definitely read that book!!! It totally changed the way I look at soil.

I started out mixing super soil and had OK results. The plants would burn tips then fade out early so I changed the amendments that I use.

No more blood meal or bone meal. No more dolomite lime, no more organic dry ferts.

I also reduced the amounts of amendments added to the soil. I re-use my soil and have for over a year and a half.

I mix 18 gallons at a time since I use 18 gallon tubs. My current mix is working very well, here is what I do.

1/2 used soil
1/4 Pro-Mix HP
1/4 Happy Frog soil conditioner
aeration material to taste

To this I add 1/4 cup of each amendment. Yes, only 1/4 cup!!!

alfalfa meal
kelp meal
crab meal
oyster shell
humic acid
azomite
epsom salt (could most likely do without this)
green sand (again I re-use my soil)

Dry mix then water and mix again. None of that layering bull crap!
I plant directly into this without cooking and they get 1/2 to 1 gallon of clear water at roughly 7.14 ph every 7-10 days.

Currently I make it to around day 44 or so before I see any fade which is way better than the super soil that started fading around day 18.
I also have discontinued the use of teas. Every time I use any it results in curling, burning, fading or margin yellowing so I just don't do it any more reinforcing the less is more ideology.

I made the changes after reading Teaming with Microbes and am very happy I did. I also have retired my roto-tiller and no longer till my garden.
That was great. You have a nice soil mix man. I too believe less is more. They way you are doing it, your soil will only get better with time. It's all about that humus and broken down roots is great stuff. Rock on!
 

YesMamNoSir

Active Member
If it were between these two soils only I would probably go with the rev, but since I am a free human with desires and ambitions I choose to craft my own soil based on people that learned how to grow plants and not marijuana.

Neem cake, kelp meal, alfalfa, crab, and rock dust you can forget about everything else but the compost going in the soil………….the compost is the ONLY determining factor in your success when it comes to soil. barring any devastatingly dumb mistakes.

Neem oil on the leaves, malted barley and aloe in the water tank with some of the same neem, kelp and alfalfa you used in the soil to make a tea every now and then.

Can it get any easier?
 

Kygiacomo

Well-Known Member
Definitely read that book!!! It totally changed the way I look at soil.

I started out mixing super soil and had OK results. The plants would burn tips then fade out early so I changed the amendments that I use.

No more blood meal or bone meal. No more dolomite lime, no more organic dry ferts.

I also reduced the amounts of amendments added to the soil. I re-use my soil and have for over a year and a half.

I mix 18 gallons at a time since I use 18 gallon tubs. My current mix is working very well, here is what I do.

1/2 used soil
1/4 Pro-Mix HP
1/4 Happy Frog soil conditioner
aeration material to taste

To this I add 1/4 cup of each amendment. Yes, only 1/4 cup!!!

alfalfa meal
kelp meal
crab meal
oyster shell
humic acid
azomite
epsom salt (could most likely do without this)
green sand (again I re-use my soil)

Dry mix then water and mix again. None of that layering bull crap!
I plant directly into this without cooking and they get 1/2 to 1 gallon of clear water at roughly 7.14 ph every 7-10 days.

Currently I make it to around day 44 or so before I see any fade which is way better than the super soil that started fading around day 18.
I also have discontinued the use of teas. Every time I use any it results in curling, burning, fading or margin yellowing so I just don't do it any more reinforcing the less is more ideology.

I made the changes after reading Teaming with Microbes and am very happy I did. I also have retired my roto-tiller and no longer till my garden.
great mix bro. im a guerilla grower and i cant use the blood and bone meal shit bc critters will tear my ass up. here is the soil mix i use its same mix clackmas coots soil mixture and very effective.the pic is of the Jacky white growing in it. 2 liter bottle hanging in back and summer is just starting lol should be a nice monster by mid oct!

1/2 Part Worm Power

1/2 Part Oly Mountain Fish Compost

1 Part Sphagnum Peat Moss

2/3 Part Pumice

1/3 Part Rice Hulls

Now with 5% Pre-Charged Colorado Bio Char!!

Nutrients included in the soil:
Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot

Neem Cake @ 1/2 cup per cubic foot

Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 cup per cubic foot

Brix Blend Basalt @ 2 Cups Per Cubic Foot

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
 

Attachments

Kygiacomo

Well-Known Member
If it were between these two soils only I would probably go with the rev, but since I am a free human with desires and ambitions I choose to craft my own soil based on people that learned how to grow plants and not marijuana.

Neem cake, kelp meal, alfalfa, crab, and rock dust you can forget about everything else but the compost going in the soil………….the compost is the ONLY determining factor in your success when it comes to soil. barring any devastatingly dumb mistakes.

Neem oil on the leaves, malted barley and aloe in the water tank with some of the same neem, kelp and alfalfa you used in the soil to make a tea every now and then.

Can it get any easier?
our mix is almost identical but i dont use the alfalfa in the soil i just make a alfalfa & kelp drench ever 2 or 3 weeks so far so good. this is the first year im using 100% living soil so idk what the results will be like.
 

Greenhouse;save

Well-Known Member
Definitely read that book!!! It totally changed the way I look at soil.

I started out mixing super soil and had OK results. The plants would burn tips then fade out early so I changed the amendments that I use.

No more blood meal or bone meal. No more dolomite lime, no more organic dry ferts.

I also reduced the amounts of amendments added to the soil. I re-use my soil and have for over a year and a half.

I mix 18 gallons at a time since I use 18 gallon tubs. My current mix is working very well, here is what I do.

1/2 used soil
1/4 Pro-Mix HP
1/4 Happy Frog soil conditioner
aeration material to taste

To this I add 1/4 cup of each amendment. Yes, only 1/4 cup!!!

alfalfa meal
kelp meal
crab meal
oyster shell
humic acid
azomite
epsom salt (could most likely do without this)
green sand (again I re-use my soil)

Dry mix then water and mix again. None of that layering bull crap!
I plant directly into this without cooking and they get 1/2 to 1 gallon of clear water at roughly 7.14 ph every 7-10 days.

Currently I make it to around day 44 or so before I see any fade which is way better than the super soil that started fading around day 18.
I also have discontinued the use of teas. Every time I use any it results in curling, burning, fading or margin yellowing so I just don't do it any more reinforcing the less is more ideology.

I made the changes after reading Teaming with Microbes and am very happy I did. I also have retired my roto-tiller and no longer till my garden.
I remember you getting into this book butchy and advising me to read it ......half way through one of .MD's forums I think.....and I never did....... but ......I've heard so much about it now that it's turned into a MUST read for me now.........
 

swiftkillpapa

Well-Known Member
Sorry I'm late to the party love the thread. Working on getting through teasing with microbes but I'm a poor reader. If only audible had it. I also have teaming with nutrients waiting after. I made a soil mix for tlo but from hearing y'all talk you'll hate mine. I went with diversity over k.i.s.s. Bc I'm really looking to feed those microbes and give them all the available carbons to break down. And I'm also starting from scratch so no premixed bags. Which explains why I have so much to add in:
180 gallons (10gal 18 pots)
-3bags of 3c.f. Of peat moss
-30gallons coco
-30 compost*
-1bag of 4c.f. Perlite
-1c.f. Biochar*
-18lbs (20gal) rice hulls
-2x5gallon bags worm castings*
-10lbs fish bone meal
-10lbs fish meal
-5lbs sea bird guano (1-10-0)
-2lbs rock phosphate (0-3-0)
-1lbs basalt*
-1/2 cup azomite
-1lbs gymsum
-1/2 cup dolomite lime
-1/2 cup Epsom
-4tbsp humic acid*
-1lbs crab meal*
-1lbs alfalfa meal*
-1lbs oyster*
-1lbs kelp meal*
-1lbs greensand
-1/2lbs langbeinite
-1lbs neem seed meal*
-1lbs karanja meal*
-1lbs organic rice
-1lbs organic oats
-1lbs organic flour
*= parts of compost tea just at smaller quantities. Plus
Molassas
Agmino by down to earth
Recharge brand mycorrhizae
--
I made a thread yesterday but I've never been a popular conversation starter.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/my-organic-super-soil.874976/
 
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