trying to drill into my hs why do is it so hard

stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
I do that by hand with a larger bit & just roll back & forth lightly
& then check for flatness do all this before sanding
& remember to clean the threads & all holes of dust after, between & before U work
sand paper leaves grit behind Keep Clean Really means it
Click to expand...
And here's a third way ...
(:
 
J Bleezy

J Bleezy

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Yes ,it needs a bit of flattening ..Not much though ...
Try to find a flat (but as flat as possible ) thing ,about the size of the COBs you want to install .
Check again with that .

Also @ john0000

Since you've finished drilling the holes ,
do not forget to smooth out the hole lips ,before sanding ...

You 've to do that ,so that the COB/holder will "sit " totally in contact with the heat sink ...

2 ways to do that :

1) Either with a razor or sharp knife ,take away (slice / cut lightly around the hole lip ) any "chips" remaining at the hole lip .

2) Lightly countersink the lip of the holes.Just lightly.
Use a drill bit double the size of the one you used to drill the hole .
( if you used 2.5 mm (for a M3 thread ) then use 5 mm for a light countersinking.
- I'm not familiar with the US drill sizes )

a ) Set the drill in motion,
b ) center it over the hole
and then c ) lightly touch the hole lip with the drill bit .

You do not want a full countersinking .
Just enough for the hole lips to be clean and smooth ,
without any "chips" from drilling .
Click to expand...
My cobs are on the way and I've never actually seen one in person before. About how big are 3590's? I'd like to get started on the heatsinks.
 
J Bleezy

J Bleezy

Well-Known Member
Sweet I just got my egraf for 3590's in the mail, they're a lot smaller than I expected. Do I need to sand spots big enough for the holder as well?
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
It's a good idea to sand the whole heat sink surface ,rather than locally where the COBs are going to be placed.
You might create a concaved surface ,if you sand locally.
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Galvanic corrosion maybe more common in aerospace & marine environments ...
Still it can be very easily present in a grow light ,too .


Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...
the heat fom the leds is enough to keep the heatsink dry as a bone, unless it falls in an aquarium.

I use stainless steel screws, on heatsinks. should be good enough shouldn't it ?
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
the heat fom the leds is enough to keep the heatsink dry as a bone, unless it falls in an aquarium.

I use stainless steel screws, on heatsinks. should be good enough shouldn't it ?
Click to expand...
All I know is that the heat from the leds is enough to transform water droplets into vapour
and conserve any vapour as vapour ...
And moreover that dry bones do contain water ,even the fossilised ones ...

I learned something new ,though ...
That where I live , probably my car gets out of an aquarium every morning ,now that you've mentioned it ...
(Never thought about it ,really ....:dunce: ..
Why the heck in an aquarium ? ..
The seashore is just 30 meters away ...)

I know also that my grow lights spend half of the day switched OFF ...

And yes ,I know that with A2 stainless steel screws I feel pretty relaxed about issues of corrosion of any kind ...

Those few things ,I think I know ..

Cheers.
:peace:
 
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