unknown

Alexander Supertramp said:

If you are not supplementing CO2 then fresh air flow into the tent is needed.

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i'm asking about out of the tent. i've got no air exiting at a well established rate. just pumping in air. is this bad?

Alexander Supertramp said:

Phosphorous deficiencies are very rare in container plants, very rare. Plus that is not what a P def looks like. That picture shows a classic Potassium deficiency.

Leaves tanning too huh, look kinda like this:

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your picture doesnt work.

The rule of thumb is to exchange the volume of air inside the inside the grow area every 3-5 minutes.

thats but like i said i put 2 table spoons of hi prix at 0-0-3 with bat do do at 1-10-1. so is it too much?

silasraven said:

your picture doesnt work.

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Sorry, not sure whats up. Heres a link to a very good diagnostic page. Most of the info contained is accurate. Just some of it contains some forum paradigms....
http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html

fuck i think my heat issues are throwing things into confusion. well remember i flushed for a week straight, one watering at monday with 2 gallons then 5 on wednesday , i just added small amount of bat poo, with small brix, and a small epsolm salts(for sulfur def in parts) and now its the wait.

silasraven said:

i'm asking about out of the tent. i've got no air exiting at a well established rate. just pumping in air. is this bad?

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I find pulling air out of the grow tent is better than pushing it in, the negative pressure will suck the walls in, but that's fine, i prefer intake and exhaust, I think that was what u were asking?

yes, but if i pull the air out at this point nothings left to blow on a 90 degree or more bulb, its really hot here and im waiting on an AC to get here. i burned some plants causing me to think i had an issue, then got sulfur def(fixing with eps) now fixing this plant with K def, added some bat poo for good measure after flush.if i screw up please tell me.

U could get a air cooled hood, and run ducting sucking air trough the hood And out the tent. but I bet u will be fine with just exhaust for now, ur in the 80s with just intake right? maybe get a desk fan to blow on the bulb and cool it, exhaust it more efficient for cooling tho man

Alexander Supertramp said:

How long and how much Hi Brix have you been using? My opinion is too much Calcium is locking up Potassium. A Potassium deficiency seems to be your biggest issue.

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but this is hydro part a and my brix is just molasses for hydro or soil only one i foudn a week ago though i cant find the real graph for mine on the same site..http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilizers/FertDB/prodinfo.aspx?pname=3876

potassium def got worse with brix mix. its 0-0-3 is there any reason K wouldn't fix its own def?

It will take some time, if u did a nice flush and gave some food just wait it out man

as long as possible, carmel ice is on week 8-9 with an air deprived flower chamber.

I don't remember u sayin it was 8 weeks into flower..u should be just giving water now, its good for water leaves to go deficient during flush b4 harvest..

As slim83 cept when u flush use H202

no time, chop tomorrow, i've got mold on JH and the ice is great. but i have an issue still with a vegging. whats going on with the cluster of all these leavers and no out ward stretch?this one is the deep green inner viens and the outter light green. i think it's mag, but i added a tad 1/4 0-0-3 for zinc because of how light green it is. is it mag or zinc?

well for one plant the yellowing keeps progressing into tan, and it wont stop. the soil is soaked and wont do anything, even the flush didn't help. so whats the deal with treating K def and it not fixing itself? can anyone tell me whether my other plants are zinc or mag def?