what are some wetting agents?

remember with PM... that shit is systemic. So if you change the leaf surface ph A) as soon as the ph regulates the fungus will start to produce fruiting bodies (the mildew you see) and release spores if allowed to do so. and B) once you get so far into flower you don't want to be spraying your buds right?? so the treatments will wear off. I'm not sure how late you can spray the lacto concoction. so that mildew will still be living in that plant just waiting to show its face again.

IME, RH don't mean shit once you have a plant that's been infected for those systemic reasons i mentioned above.

battled with PM for an entire year with all kinds of shit. when i say battled... i mean i spent countless extra hours down there every 5-7 days washing plants trying various products (K-bicarb, Na-Bicarb, H2O2, PM remover, Green Cure, i'm sure there are a few more i'm forgetting) sulfur burner was the only thing that stopped the infections from coming back, plus it degrades all the spores in the room too. Ozone did not seem to do the trick for me but I think my situation was bad enough that sulfur was the only cure.

you can get bonide sulfur that mixes with water and treat plants in veg or first week of flower and that should do some good (dont know EXACTLY how organic bonide sulfur is but it's sulfur with a wetting agent)

i will definitely tell you this.... 100% guarantee, one time treatment will not rid you of your problem. if it does... you are very very very lucky

Kirklands Environmental Safe friendly dish-soap is my go to. BUT some popular hydrostore ones are Coco-wet and SM-90.

ShLUbY said:

remember with PM... that shit is systemic. So if you change the leaf surface ph A) as soon as the ph regulates the fungus will start to produce fruiting bodies (the mildew you see) and release spores if allowed to do so. and B) once you get so far into flower you don't want to be spraying your buds right?? so the treatments will wear off. I'm not sure how late you can spray the lacto concoction. so that mildew will still be living in that plant just waiting to show its face again.

IME, RH don't mean shit once you have a plant that's been infected for those systemic reasons i mentioned above.

battled with PM for an entire year with all kinds of shit. when i say battled... i mean i spent countless extra hours down there every 5-7 days washing plants trying various products (K-bicarb, Na-Bicarb, H2O2, PM remover, Green Cure, i'm sure there are a few more i'm forgetting) sulfur burner was the only thing that stopped the infections from coming back, plus it degrades all the spores in the room too. Ozone did not seem to do the trick for me but I think my situation was bad enough that sulfur was the only cure.

you can get bonide sulfur that mixes with water and treat plants in veg or first week of flower and that should do some good (dont know EXACTLY how organic bonide sulfur is but it's sulfur with a wetting agent)

i will definitely tell you this.... 100% guarantee, one time treatment will not rid you of your problem. if it does... you are very very very lucky

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Others on here would do well to use a sulfur burner. I think thats a pro choice. Probably the go to for industrial use too. I can't commit to smoking my whole bedroom at this point though and being stuck with residue and smell since i don't have a dedicated grow room. I should've mentioned your suggestion though.

Dry yucca extract from eBay is one of the best natural wetting agents. Bought 4 Oz for around $15, will last couple of years

esh dov ets said:

Others on here would do well to use a sulfur burner. I think thats a pro choice. Probably the go to for industrial use too. I can't commit to smoking my whole bedroom at this point though and being stuck with residue and smell since i don't have a dedicated grow room. I should've mentioned your suggestion though.

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for sure. maybe the bonide sulfur spray will be the trick....

esh dov ets said:

Others on here would do well to use a sulfur burner. I think thats a pro choice. Probably the go to for industrial use too. I can't commit to smoking my whole bedroom at this point though and being stuck with residue and smell since i don't have a dedicated grow room. I should've mentioned your suggestion though.

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Serenade is an AACT style of organic PM control (Shluby is correct. you only control it.)
While it smells kinda funny for a bit.....It works pretty well for as long as 2 weeks at a time. if you get the plant wet again...you might smell it again, a little.

If your getting pistil death....use less K bicarb.....1 Tbl to the gallon is about my limit.....I like it mixed with the HT grass tea. At the concentration levels I'm brewing it.....Nicotine is not a problem in the tea.

Here's a "NO SHIT?" moment; You can brew the HT grass tea with cider vinegar and soak your feet/toes in it.....It'll actually cure toenail fungus! Takes a few sessions of doing it, like a week or 2 but, they actually bottle the stuff and sell it for that now. I was taken aback when I saw it in a regular market and a drug store....

iHearAll said:

2T em1 + 2T agricultural molasses + 1L water. mix. bottle in 1 liter plastic bottle, seal cap tighly. ferment for one week. burp cap once a few days in while fermenting. application rates are 1:100 by volume and include equal volume molasses to feed microbes until application. it can be used until harvest day and i have done this. i did skip molasses on that last day spraying though

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@iHearAll . hey, thanks for your help everyone . i got som em 1 today. @iHearAll is that T=tbls or tsp . and after i do that do i spray that same 1 L or do i dilute? the directions say dilute an ounce (witch is apox. 1.1 tbls) straight from the bottle to one gallon of water and spray. its a quart with 1 million colony 96% water 3% molasses. that gives me 32 gallons of juice. You suggest culturing it though?

esh dov ets said:

@iHearAll . hey, thanks for your help everyone . i got som em 1 today. @iHearAll is that T=tbls or tsp . and after i do that do i spray that same 1 L or do i dilute? the directions say dilute an ounce (witch is apox. 1.1 tbls) straight from the bottle to one gallon of water and spray. its a quart with 1 million colony 96% water 3% molasses. that gives me 32 gallons of juice. You suggest culturing it though?

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Yes it will last you 6+ months if you culture it. T is tablespoons. I use 2 tablespoons each EM1 and molasses. Into 1 liter water for culturing . seal air tight and wait one week and burp at some point.

Application of the new culter is 1:100 so that's roughly two teaspoons per liter. Also include two teaspoons of molasses.

To make fermented fruit extract, use 1 liter per kilo of fruit. Use only 2tsp of activated EM and molasses. Ferment for two weeks.
Apply 1:100 (see the trend?)


Rule of thumb when you are experimenting with EM is one week fermentation for liquid and two weeks for solids.

For bokashi, 50ml each activated EM and molasses will be plenty for upwards of 25 gallons of bokashi substrate. Wheat bran is popular, spent coffee is great, bird seed, spent beer grains, etc. High nitrogen. Using water and EM bring it to 50-60% moisture content, which is saturated but doesn't drip when squeezed. Ferment for 2 weeks in pails or other airtight methods

iHearAll said:

Yes it will last you 6+ months if you culture it. T is tablespoons. I use 2 tablespoons each EM1 and molasses. Into 1 liter water for culturing . seal air tight and wait one week and burp at some point.

Application of the new culter is 1:100 so that's roughly two teaspoons per liter. Also include two teaspoons of molasses.

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so i make a liter with 2 tbls and a liter of water, ferment for a week, then take 2 tbls of that activated liter and add that to a liter of more water ,then spray. right?

esh dov ets said:

so i make a liter with 2 tbls and a liter of water, ferment for a week, then take 2 tbls of that activated liter and add that to a liter of more water ,then spray. right?

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only two teaspoons when you go to spray