WHAT THE HELL IS UP?pics.

New Grower 420

Active Member
I'm having some problems outa one of my plants i have no clue what the deal is maybe nute deficiency?nute lock?burn? i duno heres some pics.103_4233.jpg103_4230.jpg103_4231.jpg103_4224.jpg103_4232.jpg103_4235.jpg103_4234.jpg
 
So, the first two pics look like heat stress. The third and sixth look like bugs, anything that causes spots or holes is usually a bug. The picture of the dead fan leaf is just that, a dead fan leaf. Don't worry about leaves that are no longer on your plant. If you see a leaf on your plant that looks like that, pull it off. The fifth picture could be heat but I can't say for sure what is wrong in that picture, yellowing of leaves can be caused by overwatering as well. Looks like you outdoors? Get some organic miticides or foliar spray and give everything a good once over. Dont over water, one gallon per two plants, every third or fourth day. Other than that, it could be worse. Good luck.
 

New Grower 420

Active Member
unlucky mate

maybe over watering and what nutes you using an how much?
im almost posative it isint over watering but i might be wrong we have had a day or 2 of rain, im using the only nutes available to me and that is MG fert spikes i chop off a small peice and put it in the soil worked great for a month or so then like a week ago i started noticeing a decline in color and some leaves started curling, maybe i should put some more mg in there, and b4 you go on about how its bad i know already but its all i can get my hands on and its 3-2-1 wich i was told was good.
 

Pureblood89

Well-Known Member
The forth pic looks definitively like mites, those little yellow spots is where a mite has sucked the fluids out of the leaf for food.
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
I think nute lockout . I run tomatoes outdoors in containers to mimic growing pot in containers. They are similar plants with similiar nutrient requirements . I have some plants outside that I accidently duh planted in straight garden compost frome home depot.They started off fine now they are yellowing starting from the bottom up the lower branches are most severe .I just happen to probe them this morning and dicovered that my ph was way high which causes nute lock out i,m pretty sure anybody else be sure to chime in if i,m wrong.I,m trying to figure out now a good way to lower it organically .a quick way that is.

(EDIT)Also your leaves are cupped up like mine also isnt that a sign also anybody I mean in relation to not being able to take up nutrient?
 

Juan Valdez

Active Member
thats leaf spot disease, you need to start treating with a fungicide immediately!

below is copy and pasted from another site by another user, it is very informative and helpful. I had this completely destroy 3 plants last year and had absolutely no idea what was going on or what to do about it. i had all the reasonable suspicions at first.. bugs, ph, nute def etc.. i treated for all these syntoms and it did nothing, they all still died. this year im starting to see early signs of it on one plant, but im confident now that i can keep it under control and harvest the whole plant come harvest time. hopefully you will be able to pull a harvest too! peace

:Ok, below is a description of leaf spot and I have had it the last 2 years. For the life of me I cant figure out why more Guerrillas have not had it. It would not be a disease that back yard growers deal with primarily guerillas. I am now a self ordained expert but there is ZERO info (little bit of an exaggeration) on this web site.

I am looking for true anecdotal experience because this disease makes mold look like a little girl of a MJ problem. It can NOT be cured and depending on how bad it hits it will defoliate your whole crop. It also over-winters so you can have it for years at one location.

Looking for old or new guerillas that have dealt with this disease I just want to hear how you managed it because that’s all you can do “manage it” not cure it? My understanding is the only way to deal with it is through preventive measures.

It is impossible for a guerrilla to remove all ground litter. Sure you can do it around your plants but not over 5 acres or more of land and the spores are passed through the air so cleaning up around your plants will only help so much. I don’t want to loose some of my favorite spots so I am looking for real life anecdotes of how other guerillas handled this if there is any.

Come on fellow guerrillas help a brother out its weird that this disease cannot be found via the sites search engine I really feel like others have had this.

HOW DID YOU FIX THE PROBLEM????

1. Move to different site? (It's in 4 plots at 4 different locations for 2 years over more than a 10 square mile radius so moving wont help me anyways.)

2. Got lucky had a dry year? ( I understand but what about next year or the next?)





BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT

Symptoms: Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (cherry, plum, almond, apricot, peach) are particularly susceptible. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomatoes, peppers and cabbage family crops in vegetable gardens.

Bacterial leaf spot is most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.

This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. The disease will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.

Control: Choose resistant varieties if possible. Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit. Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut. Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. The mulch will prevent the fungus spores from splashing back up onto the leaves. Water in the early morning hours (avoiding overhead watering if possible) to give the plants time to dry out during the day. Avoid overwatering.

There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Apply copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. This organic fungicide will not kill leaf spot, but prevents the fungus spores from germinating. Applications of Fire Blight Spray will also control the disease. Use as a preventive treatment or apply at first sign of water soaked leaves.


Starts out looking quite tame and nothing to worry about.
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A week or so later
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Then its a train wreck in 3-4 weeks
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.
 

Juan Valdez

Active Member
ahh pics didnt work, if you search: (geurillas with leaf spot experience) you should be able to find the whole thread with pics.
 

Dinosaur Bone

Active Member
Is there a distant cousin nearby??? Some folks grow "cannabis vine" .. HOPS .. and according to Ed Rosenthal it is possible for Marijuana to get leaf septora from Hops.

Its kinda like tomato's getting tobacco mosaic if you smoke or handle the tomato's plant cousin anywhere near it.
 

New Grower 420

Active Member
Is there a distant cousin nearby??? Some folks grow "cannabis vine" .. HOPS .. and according to Ed Rosenthal it is possible for Marijuana to get leaf septora from Hops.

Its kinda like tomato's getting tobacco mosaic if you smoke or handle the tomato's plant cousin anywhere near it.
no hops near by
 

New Grower 420

Active Member
thats spider mites in those new pics 4sure, it also looks like you have a p.h issue.
fucking spider mites it started out on the bottom 2 now its moving up more and more, what do i do about this? my plant just now started flowering so can i use toxins on it? and i checked the ph from the runoff and it was between 6.2-6.8
 

Burger Boss

Well-Known Member
im almost posative it isint over watering but i might be wrong we have had a day or 2 of rain, im using the only nutes available to me and that is MG fert spikes i chop off a small peice and put it in the soil worked great for a month or so then like a week ago i started noticeing a decline in color and some leaves started curling, maybe i should put some more mg in there, and b4 you go on about how its bad i know already but its all i can get my hands on and its 3-2-1 wich i was told was good.
Water beading on fan leaves can cause a negative effect in direct sunlight. In my experience, indicas are more prone to "burn" than sativas. Good luck & good grow.......BB
 

Juan Valdez

Active Member
first pic looks like some type of insect damage ie.spider mite, thrip etc... second pic looks like a combination of the inect damage and calcium deficiency. third pic those big brown spots look like bacterial leaf spot, or what dinosaur bone suggested... "septoria" disease.

here's what i would do, first make sure your ph is in check. 2nd remove all/most of the affected leaves. 3rd treat with and organic fungicide ie. copper or patassium bicabonate or as a last resort some neem oil. 4th about the possible insect problem, when you apply the fungicide make sure to drench the entire plant undersides of leaves stalk stems and all! i reccomend this because you may be able to drown any possible insects that may be on the plant. if the white speckling on the leaves (insect damage) persist you are gonna want to apply some sort of insectcide.

thats about all i can suggest, that and dont panic, calm down, relax and watch the plant to get an understanding of whats happening. these plants are very resiliant, its not gonna die overnight so chill and try to learn what you can.

also if you want to see the pics the article is from ICmag in the outdoors forum, shouldnt be hard to find.

peace
 
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