What's going on here
- Thread starter bullSnot
- Start date
bullSnot
Well-Known Member
Soil FFOF WITH 25 percent perlite, 3 gal pot. Very lite on nutes once to date due to it being a blueberry auto. Water when dry 3-5 days....ph is 6.5...
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
it looks like manganese deficiency to me, possibly caused by poor drainage or a lot of iron in your water. have you been using cal-mag + ? or are you on well water with a lot of iron? it looks like you have a fair amount of perlite in your soil, so it shouldn't be drainage.
and...some plants just yellow faster than others once flower start, they turn into calcium and sulfur hogs and will eat tons of it before they stop turning yellow.
and...some plants just yellow faster than others once flower start, they turn into calcium and sulfur hogs and will eat tons of it before they stop turning yellow.
bullSnot
Well-Known Member
Small amount of equilibrium by humboldt was in the nutes I gave...no iron in water.
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
never seen P deficiency eat leaves that bad, but i guess its possible. i've seen manganese deficiency do exactly that. could be both, you do have some red stems and petioles
im4satori
Well-Known Member
you have a magnesium issue
iron or phosphorus dont really have anything to do with it but its the right idea
im guessing (but its a very good guess) based on what you've described and assuming or taking your word that your not over fertilizing
add 5mls of calmag and 1/4 tsp of Epsom salt to every watering (the Epsom salt being more critical at the moment)
also you would get faster response if you spray them with a 1/2 tsp per gallon of Epsom salt 1 or 2x over 4 or 5 days
things that cause magnesium issues
to much potassium
to much calcium
not enough magnesium
if you are on well water and you know your source water has a good bit of calcium you may not need the calmag (maybe)
iron or phosphorus dont really have anything to do with it but its the right idea
im guessing (but its a very good guess) based on what you've described and assuming or taking your word that your not over fertilizing
add 5mls of calmag and 1/4 tsp of Epsom salt to every watering (the Epsom salt being more critical at the moment)
also you would get faster response if you spray them with a 1/2 tsp per gallon of Epsom salt 1 or 2x over 4 or 5 days
things that cause magnesium issues
to much potassium
to much calcium
not enough magnesium
if you are on well water and you know your source water has a good bit of calcium you may not need the calmag (maybe)
First Amendment Soil
Member
I agree, likely Mg and add epsom salt. It also is unlikely to hurt the plant, but can solve the issue.
SulPoMag can also help but will also add K. Not as easy to find, but a great mineral. Usually folks are a little low on K in soil, so it may not be bad either.
It also could just be underfed generally relative to your light input and other variables. Stronger soil or just mild general nutes if you go that way.
SulPoMag can also help but will also add K. Not as easy to find, but a great mineral. Usually folks are a little low on K in soil, so it may not be bad either.
It also could just be underfed generally relative to your light input and other variables. Stronger soil or just mild general nutes if you go that way.
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
mag deficiency starts as yellowing between the leaf veins, and progresses from there, i don't see any inter vein yellowing.
manganese starts as yellowing patches that turn brown and necrotic. thats what i'm seeing.\
it shouldn't matter actually. 99% of these problems are solved by the same things, leech if needed to clear the medium, check ph, make sure you're not overwatering, and don't over feed.
manganese starts as yellowing patches that turn brown and necrotic. thats what i'm seeing.\
it shouldn't matter actually. 99% of these problems are solved by the same things, leech if needed to clear the medium, check ph, make sure you're not overwatering, and don't over feed.
First Amendment Soil
Member
The other alternative is to have a well balanced soil and decent water source. Of course you can go that flush route in chems where you are constantly chasing your tail if you don't have things dialed. It is the solution for when things have already gone out of balance when this never needs to happen. Folks with well balanced soils don't have to adjust, feed or flush very much or at all. Given the poster is not going for the most aggressive growth, it may be worth mixing up some good notill or medium strength soil from a good local source, add a few amendments over the years and you will have so much buffering and availability of various nutrients that this issue would likely not come up. Once dialed, you yield will be similar, your quality will be higher, your costs will be lower, your effort will be minimal and you issues will go away. We can pass on some recipes if folks have not found them and are interested.
STX.OrganicGuerilla
Active Member
Heat stress?
bullSnot
Well-Known Member
I always stay Organic. A bit slower for the plant to process. I have been searching for an off the shelf soil where I can just amend just a bit - I have always gone with FFOF, but am finding now I am getting a lot more bark and water retention - even with 25% perlite added.
I think it is time for me to move to being a MASS-Hole users - Master mix with bottom layer of 5 Pepper...may give this a whirl on my Next RED DIESEL grow...after all aren't we all just a bunch of MASS-HOLES
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bullSnot
Well-Known Member
So each one of my plants got to start flowering and then seemed to have Mag Deficiency. Adding Nutes just did nothing.
Then as I was harvesting a plant of what buds I got - I notices very small white specs on the soil meter I pulled out....on examination I found ROOT APHIDS....good to know I found the problem....but not good that there is no real cure - but destroy all plants disinfect grow room and STOP USING FFOF...this sucks
Then as I was harvesting a plant of what buds I got - I notices very small white specs on the soil meter I pulled out....on examination I found ROOT APHIDS....good to know I found the problem....but not good that there is no real cure - but destroy all plants disinfect grow room and STOP USING FFOF...this sucks
bullSnot
Well-Known Member
now I am not sure if they are just beneficial mites ....driving me nuts. not enough of them to be causing too much problems....microscopic, white fuckers that move fast - hard to get the magnifier on em. Going to tape a couple
Man - nothing like smoking a dube and getting small into the soil - a godamn war going on in there...so this may not be all bad this is the ugly bastard -
Hypoaspis Mile Mites
http://www.theganjier.com/2015/03/11/finding-mites-a-cannabis-grower-can-love/
so I am probably over watering and gnats want to grow - but these bastards are eating em before they become a problem...Know your friends I guess.
Man - nothing like smoking a dube and getting small into the soil - a godamn war going on in there...so this may not be all bad this is the ugly bastard -
Hypoaspis Mile Mites
http://www.theganjier.com/2015/03/11/finding-mites-a-cannabis-grower-can-love/
so I am probably over watering and gnats want to grow - but these bastards are eating em before they become a problem...Know your friends I guess.
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Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
a lot of soil comes with little white bugs, i've never identified them, but they're harmless, as far as i can tell, never done anything about them and they've done no noticable damage. maybe i've just been lucky so far