What's this yellow shit ??

idfuckmyplants

idfuckmyplants

Well-Known Member
Yeah I noticed they were very similar , I'll use the big bud for the first 2 weeks of flowering and overdrive for last 2 weeks of flowering , plan on baby stepping them all up to reccomended .

You are right though they have similar values in that there both mainly pk
Big bud n.p.k 0-1-3
Overdrive n.p.k 1-5-4
Bio grow n.p.k 4-3-6
Bio bloom n.p.k 2.0-7-4

Is lockout caused by just build up of salt or are there other factors that can cause it ?
 
Know One

Know One

Well-Known Member
Always keep a bag of Epsom Salts (unscented) around. This is pure magnesium sulfate. Usually 95-97% magnesium and 3-5% sulfur. A light foliar spray using 1tsp Epsom Salt with a gallon of RO water will green your plants right up.
 
whitebb2727

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
what??!
holy shit
that's insane man, never heard of rain getting even remotely close to that alkaline.
not even close
nearly all the rainwater I've heard or seen tested in waaaay down near 5.8 or so.
man, if I were you?
I bottle that shit up, and sell it to the kooks that think they need alkaline water to make themselves "healthy"
theres a big ass market for that
Click to expand...
Actually making the body alkaline kills cancer.

Watch my father do.it with my own eyes.

idfuckmyplants said:
This is my fast buds blackberry auto @ day 15 ..

She's in bio-bizz all mix soil and has had nothing but rainwater yet ..

Seems to be growing alright just wondered what the yellowing on the leaves was ??

View attachment 3884601
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I would listen to grease monkey. That spot is just an abnormality.

Also back off the watering. Letting it droop once from under water won't hurt. It will encourage root growth and let you see what a under watered plant looks like.

Leaf droop. Over water.

If the stem relaxes and the leaves point down is under water.
 
whitebb2727

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
GangusKush said:
Most liquid plant food has a pH stabilizer of some sort and if your using super soil like happy frog or fox farm, heck even pro mix is designed to keep a plant in the perfect pH range. Peat moss has a tendency to become acidic over time as well ,and is a major component of most garden soil. Your propably pH- ing without even knowing! So I wouldn't worry to much about it, unless you are going soiless
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Correct.

Except with peat or other products that ate void of any kind of amendment.

What makes soil buffer pH is ions.
When organic matter decays it produces ions that buffer pH.


With soil the pH swings as it dries and allows the proper nutrient uptake.
 
idfuckmyplants

idfuckmyplants

Well-Known Member
Know One said:
Always keep a bag of Epsom Salts (unscented) around. This is pure magnesium sulfate. Usually 95-97% magnesium and 3-5% sulfur. A light foliar spray using 1tsp Epsom Salt with a gallon of RO water will green your plants right up.
Click to expand...
What's the purpose of the Epsom salts ? Mag def?
I've heard sulphur can be used to treat mold also would this apply with the salts if need ever occurred?

@whitebb2727 yeah I totally missed his post to start with but definitely sounded about right lol I'll keep her dry for few days look out for difference in droop to point :)
 
whitebb2727

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
So if she's not drying out she's taking nothing good from the soil ?
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Exactly.

Not all nutrients are best absorbed at the same pH. As the soil dries the pH swings and allows proper uptake.

If it stays wet it will start causing problems. Like how it looks like it needs mag. It probably doesn't. Just needs to dry out.

I start my autos in large pots also. Hell a few of them spent thier first 3-4 weeks not needing water.

I use the lift method. Pick the pot up. If it feels heavy don't water.

You can take another pot the same size, spread some soil out and let a fan dry it out. Fill that pot and compare the weight to the one that has moisture.

You will develop an eye for it. That why I said letting it dry out and droop some won't hurt it. Then you will know what to look for.
 
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greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
So if she's not drying out she's taking nothing good from the soil ?
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no, well sorta, what he means is that the soil habitually wet will show deficiencies because of the soil moisture and anaerobic-ness, the soil can be perfectly fine, but too wet and it'll look unhappy.
cannabis likes a humid soil, not wet, not soaking... humid.
lots of oxygen, lots of microbial life (what really is doing the stuff for you)
 
idfuckmyplants

idfuckmyplants

Well-Known Member
whitebb2727 said:
Exactly.

Not all nutrients are best absorbed at the same pH. As the soil dries the pH swings and allows proper uptake.

If it stays wet it will start causing problems. Like how it looks like it needs mag. It probably doesn't. Just needs to dry out.

I start my autos in large pots also. Hell a few of them spent thier first 3-4 weeks not needing water.

I use the lift method. Pick the lot up. If it feels heavy don't water.

You can take another pot the same size, spread some soil out and let a fan dry it out. Fill that pot and compare the weight to the one that has moisture.

You will develops an eye for it. That why I said letting it dry out and droop.some won't hurt it. Then you will know what to look for.
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Yeah I get ya , say it is mag it looks to be needing , the mag is there readily available but until the soil dries to a ph level at which the mag can be absorbed it's not getting any ?
I've got an idea of what it should weigh the pot feels heavier now then when it had a fully grown plant in so I don't doubt for a minute that I probably have been keeping it to moist . Noob mistake my end as I thought plenty water was key as a baby lol
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
Yeah I noticed they were very similar , I'll use the big bud for the first 2 weeks of flowering and overdrive for last 2 weeks of flowering , plan on baby stepping them all up to reccomended .

You are right though they have similar values in that there both mainly pk
Big bud n.p.k 0-1-3
Overdrive n.p.k 1-5-4
Bio grow n.p.k 4-3-6
Bio bloom n.p.k 2.0-7-4

Is lockout caused by just build up of salt or are there other factors that can cause it ?
Click to expand...
fuck all those bottles man.
the bio grow will work fine beginning to end.

even better, and maybe down the line (walk before running)
try an organic meal based cycled mix heavy on fresh humus
once you try that you'll never go back to a bottle-grow
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
Yeah I get ya , say it is mag it looks to be needing , the mag is there readily available but until the soil dries to a ph level at which the mag can be absorbed it's not getting any ?
I've got an idea of what it should weigh the pot feels heavier now then when it had a fully grown plant in so I don't doubt for a minute that I probably have been keeping it to moist . Noob mistake my end as I thought plenty water was key as a baby lol
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don't beat yourself up man
we know it's that because we've done it..
mistakes teach you MUCH better than success.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
@greasemonkeymann
@whitebb2727

You guys got any good links or book reccomendations regarding all this save you having explain it all lol
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teaming with microbes
teaming with nutrients
both by jeff lowenfels
those will get you a leg up on a lot.
also I encourage growers to grow as many different types of plants as possible.
roses, veggies, houseplants,etc.
the more experience the better
 
Know One

Know One

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
Yeah I noticed they were very similar , I'll use the big bud for the first 2 weeks of flowering and overdrive for last 2 weeks of flowering , plan on baby stepping them all up to reccomended .

You are right though they have similar values in that there both mainly pk
Big bud n.p.k 0-1-3

Overdrive n.p.k 1-5-4

Bio grow n.p.k 4-3-6
Bio bloom n.p.k 2.0-7-4

Is lockout caused by just build up of salt or are there other factors that can cause it ?
Click to expand...
The lockout can be either pH too high or low, or, the balance of nutrients being thrown off by adding other chemicals .
The Grow And Bloom are your staples for Veg and Flower (obviously) Bio Grow is for your veg and accounts for the high N-4 (Nitrogen). This gets plants to grow green and lush to start.
Bio Bud Drops the N (Nitrogen) and raises the P (Phosphorous).
OD keeps a small % of N. It also raises both P and K which I think is good.
I would use the OD for first 2 weeks in flower and finish with Bio Bloom only, exactly as instructions call for.
Keep in mind that all nutrients are composed of raw salts. The lockout is caused when pH is too high or low. Or chemicals are simply out of balance. This happens when people start adding more nutrients thinking it will make it bigger. It will have the opposite effect.
Something else to be aware of is toxification, most of the time it is phosphorous from boosters. This is why not using several products can give you a higher yield.
 
Know One

Know One

Well-Known Member
idfuckmyplants said:
What's the purpose of the Epsom salts ? Mag def?
I've heard sulphur can be used to treat mold also would this apply with the salts if need ever occurred?

@whitebb2727 yeah I totally missed his post to start with but definitely sounded about right lol I'll keep her dry for few days look out for difference in droop to point :)
Click to expand...
Epsom Salt is Magnesium Sulfate (Usually 95-97% magnesium to 3-5% sulfer) and costs about $1.00 for a decent size bag. CalMag, which is Calcium and Magnesium has a specific percentage combination. If your plants are a bit yellow, most of the time they actually only need a foliar feed of 1tsp of Epsom Salt mixed with one gallon of RO water. Magnesium will green them up in 2-3 days. Many
growers use CalMag when a cheap bag of Epsom Salt will do the trick. The small amount of sulfur helps with mold and is also good for your plants.
 
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