Who Needs Help?Ask Here..

smithdav

smithdav

Well-Known Member
OK, I have some 3 gallon plastic pots and will plan on that.
My plan was to begin nutrients in two to three weeks after transplanting sine the FF soil has some included...sound about right to you?
Once you mix up the nuets in the gallon container how long are they good for?

Thanks for holding my hand!!

Peace
 
SmokesLikeBob

SmokesLikeBob

Well-Known Member
smithdav said:
OK, I have some 3 gallon plastic pots and will plan on that.
My plan was to begin nutrients in two to three weeks after transplanting sine the FF soil has some included...sound about right to you?
Once you mix up the nuets in the gallon container how long are they good for?

Thanks for holding my hand!!

Peace
Click to expand...
Sounds right to me!
Mixed nutes should be good for maybe 1 week at the most, you wouldn't wanna use it after that as some of the water would've evaporated, thus increasing the concentration of salts and nutrients in that mix...
haha, no problem...it's what I do...


SLB
 
G

gobbly

Well-Known Member
SmokesLikeBob said:
PH that is too high or too low can result in nutrient lock out, which may be whats going on in your situation...
Actually, lime contains citric acid, and adding this to your water should make the water more acidic, thus lowering your ph rather than raising it...
Click to expand...
Just to clarify, are you talking about the fruit or the mineral? I know citris fruits are acidic, but I don't think dolomite lime is related to the fruit... From what I understand dolomite lime it is derived from limestone, much like limewater (often called kaliwasser, not sure on that spelling though), and has nothing to do with citris. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have a large amount of experience with water chemistry that I'm drawing all this from, and limewater, derived from limestone is used to raise alkalinity in water. In fact, from what I understand water PH is a measurement of calcium concentrations in relation to the amount of disolved co2 which has bonded with it...
 
SmokesLikeBob

SmokesLikeBob

Well-Known Member
gobbly said:
Just to clarify, are you talking about the fruit or the mineral? I know citris fruits are acidic, but I don't think dolomite lime is related to the fruit... From what I understand dolomite lime it is derived from limestone, much like limewater (often called kaliwasser, not sure on that spelling though), and has nothing to do with citris. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have a large amount of experience with water chemistry that I'm drawing all this from, and limewater, derived from limestone is used to raise alkalinity in water. In fact, from what I understand water PH is a measurement of calcium concentrations in relation to the amount of disolved co2 which has bonded with it...
Click to expand...
I'm sorry I didn't read it correctly, I thought you put real lime! lol...but isn't "dolomite lime" supposed to be added to soil to prevent the soil from becoming too acidic and provide calcium and magnesium? I'm not too sure if it can be added to correct the pH of water??? The people at the hydro shop probably fucked you over!
 
smithdav

smithdav

Well-Known Member
OK you da man!
I have the plants under T5 now and are going to switch to a 400 Watt MH once transplanted and the grow room is all cleaned up.

Thanks again and will keep you updated.
Peace!
 
SmokesLikeBob

SmokesLikeBob

Well-Known Member
smithdav said:
OK you da man!
I have the plants under T5 now and are going to switch to a 400 Watt MH once transplanted and the grow room is all cleaned up.

Thanks again and will keep you updated.
Peace!
Click to expand...
Sure thing! You should start a journal...when/if you do PM me the link!
 
G

gobbly

Well-Known Member
SmokesLikeBob said:
I'm sorry I didn't read it correctly, I thought you put real lime! lol...but isn't "dolomite lime" supposed to be added to soil to prevent the soil from becoming too acidic and provide calcium and magnesium? I'm not too sure if it can be added to correct the pH of water??? The people at the hydro shop probably fucked you over!
Click to expand...
NP at all :) They had a fox farms 'acid loving' fertilizer they were recommending at first, but then said that since I used fish emulsion I should try this limestone based stuff. I'm sure she just got mixed up. I'll take it back and exchange it for the fox farm stuff, thanks a bunch!
 
SmokesLikeBob

SmokesLikeBob

Well-Known Member
gobbly said:
NP at all :) They had a fox farms 'acid loving' fertilizer they were recommending at first, but then said that since I used fish emulsion I should try this limestone based stuff. I'm sure she just got mixed up. I'll take it back and exchange it for the fox farm stuff, thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
Np, your knowledge of water chemistry should do you well in this community, I look forward to seeing your growing skills!
 
G

gobbly

Well-Known Member
hehe, I'm finding that soil chemistry is significantly different than water (or at least is a lot harder to modify), but I'm committed to sticking with it. I've picked up a lot of knowledge from this site, and I suspect my next crop will be quite an improvement :)
 
SmokesLikeBob

SmokesLikeBob

Well-Known Member
gobbly said:
hehe, I'm finding that soil chemistry is significantly different than water (or at least is a lot harder to modify), but I'm committed to sticking with it. I've picked up a lot of knowledge from this site, and I suspect my next crop will be quite an improvement :)
Click to expand...
It is, I think you would probably like hydro a lot better! Ever gave it a shot?
 
G

gobbly

Well-Known Member
SmokesLikeBob said:
It is, I think you would probably like hydro a lot better! Ever gave it a shot?
Click to expand...
I have been considering it. My background is in aquaria, and not only are they basically the same sort of systems, but I pretty much have all the equipment already, would only need a tray. I'm a little intimidated by it though, especially the root problems I've read out. I also have fairly limited space that's secure, and I'm not sure I have enough space to set it all up.
 
StinkyDuck

StinkyDuck

Member
Hi everyone,

I may be just impatient but i put my seeds in rockwool 3 days ago and have no signs of growth. Any tips for me? heats been between 80 and 85
 
jenna28jj

jenna28jj

Member
does make sense, i have since found out that it is a cfl light, still havent done anything to it. my next question would be to flower this plant do i need to put it on the 12/12 cycle with the light? my friend told me i would shock it and it would die to just leave it alone, but i think she is almost 2 months old now. also, i ordered a feminized ak47+low rider autoflower seed, which just sprouted yesterday, should i right away put it under the light and leave her there? thanks to everyone for helping me, i wish i could share the fruits of my labor with you all!
 
stillcrazy

stillcrazy

Member
just starting ,got a budbox and using a 400 watt bulb . growin dwarf and lowlife and so far so good . was thinking of uping to a 600 watt or ive got a 120 watt led light . whats the general opinion ..
 
bigman4270

bigman4270

Well-Known Member
jenna28jj said:
does make sense, i have since found out that it is a cfl light, still havent done anything to it. my next question would be to flower this plant do i need to put it on the 12/12 cycle with the light? my friend told me i would shock it and it would die to just leave it alone, but i think she is almost 2 months old now. also, i ordered a feminized ak47+low rider autoflower seed, which just sprouted yesterday, should i right away put it under the light and leave her there? thanks to everyone for helping me, i wish i could share the fruits of my labor with you all!
Click to expand...
I would reduce the light cycle slowly over a week by 2 hrs a day. 18/6, 16/8, 14/10 and so on till you get to 12/12. Switching to flower should not kill your plant.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top