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tristynhawk said:

anyone ever tried nirvana's soiltabs and flowertabs?

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No. No one. Ever.

Wrong place to ask that question. Try the nutrient forum.

tristynhawk said:

ok i have one more question for someone i know people probally get tired of hearing this to.But how far from my plants should i keep 4 26 watt cfl's without burning them few r 3 weeks old couple r seedlings ive read two to four inches and ive read 20 inches the 2 to 4 sounds right to me but id hate to kill em

the other day i was looking at some cfl's and there were three types soft,natural,bright

soft was for budding right

bright for vegging right

whats normal these were GE bulbs

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I keep my CFL bulbs between 2cm and 5cm (About 1 to 2 inches away). Soft white bulbs contain more red light which assists in the development of flowering hormones. It is my opinion that 2700K Soft White CFL bulbs do not offer enough red light in the appropriate part of the spectrum to be efficiently utilized. This is why I think Bright White (Day Light) spectrum bulbs, from 5000K to 7000K, provide the most PAR and result in the largest and healthiest harvests.

tristynhawk said:

aw hell not normal i meant natural

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Then use the edit button. It is there for a reason.

dazerous said:

So my question has probably been asked and i apologize. Here it is. Can you grow three to four different strains in the same room without repercussion? reason why is I am growing nirvana ice and new york diesel and platinum cush in the same room and all are on 12/12 and the same feeding.The cones all have the same appearance in my eye or should i say buds?can post pics if further details needed

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It can become an issue if they have different flowering schedules and different nutritional needs. I grow multiple strains, as do many other growers, and it just means you cannot be a mindless Zombie in there following a set schedule for all the plants. Be smart, listen to them, and treat each on an individual basis.

swantip said:

Are those fluo's as good as cfl's?The left and middle one in the image (image:left 4biax 45W 6500k and middle 7biax 85W 6500k)

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They are the same technology. Not sure what a "biax" is. Better and worse depend on the kind of grow you are doing. CFL's are compact and direct the entirety of their energy in a small area. Strip lighting spreads that energy out. A 20w strip bulb that is 48 inches long is pushing about .5w per square inch.

kozmik said:

im using jacks classic on my first grow what else would i need to feed my plants as in anything NEEDED to get threw a grow? lik any other thing needed threw out the grow i hear mollasses is good and some other things anyone with any good advice for a fellow new grower

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Sounds like you've been "gotten" to by the Jack's Classic crowd. I don't personally know anyone who uses that stuff and the guys that do use it I have on ignore because 90% of them are absolute douchebags.

Never grown with it, never seen a journal with it, but as I understand it, it's just a dry salt-based fertilizers like anything else.

Technically, all you need to grow with is good soil and water. Anything after that is extra, so I'd say no, you don't need anything else.

I use:
Canna Coco A+B
Cal-Mag Plus
Liquid Karma
Pro-Tekt
CNS 17 Ripe
Hydroplex
Big Bud
Nirvana
BioWeed
Snow Storm Ultra
Bud Candy

I'm not the kind of person who would believe that the best plants come from a KISS approach. I think the fertilizer you have is supposed to be mostly complete as far as elements go. You could use unsulfured Molasses if you like (I use Bud Candy similarly and have used Honey ES in the past).

If you're interested in the results of my multi-product solution in action then please see my current grow journal included in my signature below.

cal-mag plus how and for what reason do u use it? how much and at what stage? hydroponically that is. im about to go to my local hydro shop and buy it buit i want to be sure i im buying it for the correct reason and how to use it correctly.

Cal-Mag Plus is Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Nitrate, and some iron chelated with EDTA. In many systems as much calcium as Nitrogen is used during early vegetative periods, hardly making it a "micro" nutrient.

Also, many systems are designed to be used with tap water supply that contains the trace elements plants require. Filtered water will not provide these elements, so you have to supplement them in other ways. Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus is one of those options.

I have tap water at around .1ec, which is very clean and clear of trace elements. This is why I use around 1ml/L of Cal-Mag Plus in my own system. I always make sure I add around 100ppm, or .2ec, of Cal-Mag Plus to my reservoir for the proper balance of elements.

Beware that EDTA breaks down into compounds which are used as biocides... Not good stuff. They frak with the cell walls of the micro-fauna in your soil and can result in more problems down the road. Chelating agents are no joke and when you understand how they impact the chemistry of the molecules and how that alters the uptake of elements both in the plant, and in microbes, you see that sometimes it's better to find alternatives like Dolomite, Azomite, Shells, and Epsom Salts.

where the hell did u learn all this?! oaksterdam? botany major?
thanx again for the explanation

i see that you listed everything but unfortunately at the moment i only have 400 for startup including light seeds n nutes so gettin all of that at first cant hapen right now so thats why im trying jacks do u kno of any nutrients that doesnt hurt the pockets to much? i see that you plants are worth the price of the things u use but at the moment its too much for me u kno bro

koz jus get a the basic 3part micro/gro/bloom. gen hydro, adv nutes, technaflora ect... pick one and and follow instuctrions. as you get more familiar with your plants needs, you can add enhancements such as bud candy cal mag all that type of stuff. but like snow said all u really NEED is good clean water.
htgsupply.com has cheap lights way under 400

matatan said:

where the hell did u learn all this?! oaksterdam? botany major?
thanx again for the explanation

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Self-taught. Some experience. And a high IQ.

Actually, you'd be amazed at what information is already available on the internet. It takes a while, maybe 3 years, but you'll add it all together eventually. I find that most questions are pretty repetitive and most of this is just regurgitation.

kozmik said:

i see that you listed everything but unfortunately at the moment i only have 400 for startup including light seeds n nutes so gettin all of that at first cant hapen right now so thats why im trying jacks do u kno of any nutrients that doesnt hurt the pockets to much? i see that you plants are worth the price of the things u use but at the moment its too much for me u kno bro

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Oh dude. I didn't mean you needed to get all that stuff. Just... That's what I'm using.
You can add together a lot of different things to get a system that suits a plant. What you choose is up to you.

Of all the things to keep around, you should get some pH down, some pro-tekt potassium silicate as a pH up, Cal-Mag plus to regulate your micro-nutrient levels, and some epsom salt.

These are pretty basic stuff most growers will use at one point or another. Maybe a lot, maybe a drop... but there's a place for each. I personally LOVE Liquid Karma. I don't know what it is about the stuff... It allows me to run very high level nutrients without the plant freaking out. Seems to keep things stable and just powering forward so long as I'm using it. I find that the more I use of this stuff, up to about 10ml per gallon, the better. It's like $20 to $25 per liter, so you should consider it with a grain of salt.

I'm buying it by the 2.5 gallon for $100 the next time around. But that's just me.

If you're looking for a good bloom booster aim for the lower concentration stuff. CannaBoost, Bloombastic, and Bud Factor X are in this family of exceptionally over-priced additives (about $80 per liter) that might have that extra little bit of impact to increase final weight and resin by maybe 15% or so. I don't know if it is really worth it for you to pick up one of those.

Focus on the basic stuff that will last that I listed above and try to keep the use of anything at the lowest suggested strength.

you dont switch over to dry karma towards the end?

matatan said:

you dont switch over to dry karma towards the end?

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what?

Are you being sarcastic?

woah HA! sorry i thought u was referring to liquid koolbloom
edit: liquid for the beginning stages of flowering and dry for the final 2-3 weeks

Alright so i got a 4x4x6 grow tent with a 400 watt hps/mh light with a ballest outside the room. I am running the GH rainforrest 66 which is a dwc/sprayer hydro system. Currently i have 3 plants in system at 2 weeks old. I also have 3 others next to it in just soil preparing to be put outside. I also have 7 northern light seeds and 3 sour d seeds sprouting in a dome under the light. As you can see some leaves appear to have a rusty color along with many leaves yellowing. I am currently using GH FLoraNova for the veg nutes then FLoraBLoom for flowering. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

zachary smith said:

Alright so i got a 4x4x6 grow tent with a 400 watt hps/mh light with a ballest outside the room. I am running the GH rainforrest 66 which is a dwc/sprayer hydro system. Currently i have 3 plants in system at 2 weeks old. I also have 3 others next to it in just soil preparing to be put outside. I also have 7 northern light seeds and 3 sour d seeds sprouting in a dome under the light. As you can see some leaves appear to have a rusty color along with many leaves yellowing. I am currently using GH FLoraNova for the veg nutes then FLoraBLoom for flowering. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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Any pH or ppm information?

Snow Crash said:

Any pH or ppm information?

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The pH is normal and generally stays between 5.2-5.6. and its 600 ppm.

between 5.2 and 5.6 is not normal.

You're also growing in soil.

I was looking for a little more detail then that, but your pH is obviously an issue. Try to keep your hydro between 5.5 and 5.8 (closer to 5.8 all the time is ideal) and your soil at 6.5 to 7.0. The 600ppm solution is probably okay outside of the pH.

hows it going SC??ive been growing for a couple years now, but ALWAYS start from clone, so i dont have very much experience growing from seed...well i have a nice stock of beans saved up and want to try some breeding so im cracking beans....i have 4 killaQueenxNYCD and 8 northern lights seedlings that are about 30 days old...they are in FFLW in party cups....when can i start them on a very mild dose of nutes???? and when i do,whenever it is, what is the recommended starting dose?and should they be started on anything else other than a grow nute, at the start??thanks man...ganja

Snow Crash said:

between 5.2 and 5.6 is not normal.

You're also growing in soil.

I was looking for a little more detail then that, but your pH is obviously an issue. Try to keep your hydro between 5.5 and 5.8 (closer to 5.8 all the time is ideal) and your soil at 6.5 to 7.0. The 600ppm solution is probably okay outside of the pH.

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Alright thanks a bunch man. Ill deff look into the ph.

ganjaluva2009 said:

hows it going SC??ive been growing for a couple years now, but ALWAYS start from clone, so i dont have very much experience growing from seed...well i have a nice stock of beans saved up and want to try some breeding so im cracking beans....i have 4 killaQueenxNYCD and 8 northern lights seedlings that are about 30 days old...they are in FFLW in party cups....when can i start them on a very mild dose of nutes???? and when i do,whenever it is, what is the recommended starting dose?and should they be started on anything else other than a grow nute, at the start??thanks man...ganja

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Hey man. They're looking good so I don't think you need to be rushing the nutrients. Normally I'd be saying around the time when the next node fills in but I think in this case you could probably go two nodes more growth. Somewhere around 7 to 10 days before you begin to push them hard with more food.

You won't have to start too slow. 1.0ec/500ppm would be just fine for a first feeding of a plant that size. The root system should be very formidable by that point and ready for a good boost. It might not be a week after you feed that you'll be transplanting out of those party cups into somewhat larger planters.

They are looking a little behind for 30 days old... but they don't look ill. Maybe just low temperatures.

Build those roots over the next week or so, and when you notice the media going nearly dry in a day, that will probably coincide with the period of time you need to start feeding.

zachary smith said:

Alright thanks a bunch man. Ill deff look into the ph.

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No trouble. Also, if you haven't calibrated your pH meter recently that would be a good idea, just to rule that out as an issue.

they are def way behind...i stunted the hell out of them about a week into there lives....i started them in hempy....and i still couldnt tell u what it was, but they started shriveling up and yellowed very bad....got scared and put them in the cups at about week 3....and within a day of being in the soil they perked back up and started looking good...but the damage was done, as u noticed in there size for there age...but u live and u learn....heres a couple pics of the adventure....heres when they first went in the hempys.....heres where they start getting bad...finally made the call to put in soil...and here we are today....but thanks a million for the info....appreciatte it...just un-potted one and ur right about them needing to be outta those cups soon....medium is filled with roots....so wait 2 more nodes...start at about 500ppm and were off to the races.. didnt mean to clog ur thread with the pics....thanks bro....ganja

Hey man it seems theres not much love for NFT growers out there so hopefully u can help. Ive been looking at a nice NFT system online but problem is i dont know how to use it, well actually i do know how to use it but more to the point i dont know how to start the clones of in it. It says the system comes with all the necessary components to start straight away but theres nothing to top feed the plants until the roots reach the channel, so im left wondering how the hell do i feed the plants until there roots reach the channel??

This is the system im looking at, its cheaps but looks like it could get the job done.

http://www.newagehydro.com/shop/details.php?prodId=445

What i also thought was maybe the flowing nutrients through the channel could flow past the bottom of rockwool cubes and could soak up the whole cube thus feeding the plant, would this work? Any help would be great man +rep

sup guys i have another question for all you guru's im growing some plants indoors to place outside and i have them on 18-6 light and they look great little bushes but they are pretty compact their only bout 6 to 8 inches tall with bout 10 branch nodes (i also have some smaller ones which is why im asking this) if i switch the light to say 16-8 will they get taller for me and also stay in veg. state or would i be better off to just move lights further away?i haven't any experience growing with lights always did work outside just been shitty year so far trying to stay on schedule.

id like to thank all of you so far who have takin the time to reply to my questions even if they seemed silly to you all.finding this site was a godsend im still not very computer savvy yet though so im sorry for not knowing where the edit button is snow.MY BAD