Wiring 48" Fluorescent Help!

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
Ok so I have about four 48" dual tube fluorescents that were hard wired into a building before. Since they have been taken out of the building, the wires don't have a direct plug into the wall and that is what i need. They have the hard metal looking wire cover over the wires as well but I don't think that makes a difference. I am very much a DIY kinda guy and I believe I'm more than capable of doing this if I can get some help or instruction. Does anyone have experience with this sort of situation? My grow room is 2'W 3'D 6' H and I really wanted to put them horizontally but since the room is too shallow I want to put the vertically in each corner. Also I believe that a 48" Fluorescent has a pretty standard wattage, do you think that the four of these vertically in the corners would be enough light and wattage to grow the 4-5 plants that im hoping? These lights are free and thats how i would like to keep it but I can eventually buy some CFLs if you feel thats necessary, help is appreciated!
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
View attachment 1402480hi mate whts stripe lights are they
i just put 2 t5 4ft 28w 840 cool white tubes in as side lightsView attachment 1402477 and are you vegin g or in flower
Thanks for the reply....I haven't started growing yet, I have just assembled my tent and now im looking to do the same with my lighting. They are just standard 48" shop lights, I think I will be changing some of the tubes thought a different spectrum. Your plants are looking good!
 

andymann

Member
save your self some money messing about with used stuff get some t5 lights cheap to buy tubes cheap and at 28watt the cheapest to run and only costing £12 plus £2.70 for tube including 2ft fly lead plug and go
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
I'm just a believer in DIY and I already have these lights, my whole setup has been free and the lights just sitting here and I think they should be utilized. Does nobody know how to wire the light cord to a plug?
 

neosapien

Well-Known Member
I am not an electrician....Are there 3 wires? If so buy a plug end and wire the black wire to the gold screw on the plug end(hot), then wire the white wire to the silver screw on the plug end (neutral) and then wire the green/bare wire to the green screw on the plug end (ground). If there are only 2 wires, then the metal sheath, known as romex, was actually grounding the light to the junction box in which case I'm not sure how you would proceed.
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
I am not an electrician....Are there 3 wires? If so buy a plug end and wire the black wire to the gold screw on the plug end(hot), then wire the white wire to the silver screw on the plug end (neutral) and then wire the green/bare wire to the green screw on the plug end (ground). If there are only 2 wires, then the metal sheath, known as romex, was actually grounding the light to the junction box in which case I'm not sure how you would proceed.
This helps, I think there are three wires and the metal sheath (Romex)...but I'm not 100%. I'm about to go check...
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
Ok so Im going to put some pics up in a little bit but, one light has green, black, and white with the romex, but the green isn't hooked up to anything on the light. And the other light has just black and white...help anybody?
 

Oldreefer

Well-Known Member
Some direct wired floros, when converted, need 3 wire hookup to "excite" the starter....very simple....hot, neutral, ground.....it is far from rocket science.
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
Some direct wired floros, when converted, need 3 wire hookup to "excite" the starter....very simple....hot, neutral, ground.....it is far from rocket science.
Yea Im not expecting it to be to difficult but it is very important for me to do it right, and the only problem is that there's a green wire running through the cord but when it gets to the light it doesn't hook up to anything...i got some pics on the way to explain easier.
 
White = Positive, Green = Ground, Black = Negative
When you splice the plug be sure to keep the 3 wires separated but since its AC power and not DC (a battery) it doesn't matter what is positive and what is negative. Just be sure to wrap the wires tight with electrical tape and be sure there are no wires exposed.
Good luck.
 

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
well the only reason you have a green wire is the pig tail (male corded side) is a three prong which is not even necessary you can just wire nut the green off and hook up the hot and neutral wires and it will burn just fine. the reason there is no green in the fixture itself is cause all the green does is hook to a ground screw on the inside of the belly pan (metal center cover). it isnt rocket science but i understand what you are saying its easier to just ask if you hook these things up wrong you can fry the ballasts in them and any electrician will tell you the fixture itself isnt worth shit its the ballast that costs money i been a JW electrician for 6 years now and dont mind helping people out at all.
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
well the only reason you have a green wire is the pig tail (male corded side) is a three prong which is not even necessary you can just wire nut the green off and hook up the hot and neutral wires and it will burn just fine. the reason there is no green in the fixture itself is cause all the green does is hook to a ground screw on the inside of the belly pan (metal center cover). it isnt rocket science but i understand what you are saying its easier to just ask if you hook these things up wrong you can fry the ballasts in them and any electrician will tell you the fixture itself isnt worth shit its the ballast that costs money i been a JW electrician for 6 years now and dont mind helping people out at all.
This is good info and I appreciate the help. I did see a screw in the middle of both of the belly pans, but it was screwed into the wall.
 
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