Your CXA3590 Mission Should you Choose to Accept It !

Ok here we go DAy 1 oF Flower 3 plants 3 strains 300 watts of cree and 28 watts of 730 nm that only runs for 8 minutes at lights out. Just got new nutes in today ..Going to be flowering with Nectar for the gods. I stretched them out in veg this time on purpose then super cropped to try to create bigger ( wider ) plants. Since legally i can only have 3 plants in flower at a time. trying to fill up a 4 x 4 square with 3 plants is not the easiest thing to do. I wonder who's bright idea it was to make it 3 plants in flower.Should be 4 plants in flower so less light is wasted and I wouldn't have to do crazy ass shit to try to fill up my grow area.

It is more effecient and much much cheaper to run two 3070s. Plus better light spread.

where did you get the 730nm red from? Do you really think it will make a difference? And why not run for more than 8mins?

Hi Java, well done mate. Nice budsites forming there.

Iv'e had two days catching up with the tech, been running LED for some time, still a newbie by all accounts with DIY.

I'm still back with 3070 CXA and wondering whether theres any chance that this h/sink would be ok passive? Did you do any test without fan (sorry iv'e missed other threads no doubt). Any thoughts anyone on using this heatsink passive? I see another build with some giant heatsinks for the 3070 but not sure how big they actually will need to be (I run in low ambient temps most times indoor).

Your CXA3590 Mission Should you Choose to Accept It !

I like the idea of not using fans, what would be the largest chip for such a heatsink to be safe? (or safe if a fan fails)? I know there are surface area calculations but I see some of these very heatsinks going relatively cheaply from a local seller, worth even considering fan-less for our application?

Great build though, I tried to like some posts but that feature seems not available to me for some reason I'm sure will dawn on me.

purplegrower02 said:

It is more effecient and much much cheaper to run two 3070s. Plus better light spread.

where did you get the 730nm red from? Do you really think it will make a difference? And why not run for more than 8mins?

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Not Sure how to take that. Kinda like a kids gets himself a vanilla ice cream then some other kid comes up eating a chocolate ice cream and says You dumb ass you could have got chocolate it is cheaper and sweeter. Or is it ? I know alot of folks look at the lumens and watts and so on. But I just looked at journals. Guy named BpSpills was running a CXA3050 2700K and just killing it ,growing fat buds. So i choose the 2700K over the CXA3070 3000K. I know most folks will say it is only 300k between the two it wont make a difference. But i think it does. I would for sure jump on a 3070 if they ever start making them in 2700K.

As far as much much cheaper. Not me. I will never buy those cheap drivers on ebay again. They run pretty damn hot . At least 20 30 degrees hotter then my meanwells. They leak down after they are off. They have shitty 20 gauge wire coming out of them. The really thin stranded kind. Wont work with cob holders. I had to use a piece of good wire i had laying around to make it work. Meanwells use thick stranded copper core silver coated 18 gauge wire on there 1400 mA drivers. I am a bit bias i got some joker ass ebay seller trying to rip me off. But really in all truthfulness what i have here is a totally inferior drivers sent from a ebay seller. Maybe if it was just me i would maybe try to run that crap. But i got a family to think about i can have that shit burning down my house. It still needs to be put on a scope. I bet it is one noisey ass driver. Might just be sucking the life out of my CXA as we Speak. Cant wait till my meanwells get here Monday. I am no Meanwell sales man you guys do what you want , But if you really think there is no difference in quality and engineering between the two then you really are fooling yourself.

Ok Last but not least 730nm. It is not there to grow bud so to say. It is only there to put the ladies to sleep. It all starts with Robert Emerson back in the 50's. He discovered that hitting plants with two different reds at different times lead to really big flower growth. This was on reg plants not MJ i believe.It is known as the Emerson Effect now. So anyways fast forward to the early 2000's some mad scientists hitting poor MJ plants with different reds. They found out that hitting a plant at lights out with 730mn red put it fast to sleep and it starts making flowering hormones right away. With out the light it takes plants 2 hours to fully go to sleep and start making hormons. Some folks push the light cycle to 14 hours a days when growing sativa with a 730nm. I think most use a 13 on 11 off. Looking at journals most folks reported the flowering cycle was about a week quicker. Thats all i what out of it is that week quicker. Doing 12/12 the whole cycle might cut the light down a bit more the last week but 12/12 for the most part. Efficiency wise that is huge. Say your doing a perpetual grow with a 9 week strain. Then add the 730nm and flower in 8 weeks. That adds up to one extra grow a year. So if you yield a pound per a grow that is one extra pound a year. I see that as huge in terms of efficiency.

I like vanilla, lets be clear on that! (lol)

Tazbud said:

Hi Java, well done mate. Nice budsites forming there.

Iv'e had two days catching up with the tech, been running LED for some time, still a newbie by all accounts with DIY.

I'm still back with 3070 CXA and wondering whether theres any chance that this h/sink would be ok passive? Did you do any test without fan (sorry iv'e missed other threads no doubt). Any thoughts anyone on using this heatsink passive? I see another build with some giant heatsinks for the 3070 but not sure how big they actually will need to be (I run in low ambient temps most times indoor).

Your CXA3590 Mission Should you Choose to Accept It !

I like the idea of not using fans, what would be the largest chip for such a heatsink to be safe? (or safe if a fan fails)? I know there are surface area calculations but I see some of these very heatsinks going relatively cheaply from a local seller, worth even considering fan-less for our application?

Great build though, I tried to like some posts but that feature seems not available to me for some reason I'm sure will dawn on me.

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If your talking about running 3070's on the heatsink i got for the 3590. Then it would for sure handle it. It can handle 130 Watts passively. But no i didn't test it without the fan. Doubt it will ever come to that i can ever remember a fan quitting on me. They always start making noise first.

Really need to know what you plan to drive the CXA3070 at. Most are running them @ 50 watts, but they are designed to run @ 70 watts. So really need to know what current you plan to use to help.

OH forgot to add i got proof the 2700k grows fat buds. I think it turned out pretty well considering it was my first harvest.

I know a few people that do that but never knew it was a 730nm. Plus document if it really works because the only two people i know who do it don't write anything down not even start date flower date nothing so whenthey say ssomething works i take it with a grain of salt.

And it's not like comparing ice creams, the 3070 IS more efficient. Just wondering why you would go with the 3050 when the 3070 is $2 more, they do make 2.7k 3070s just in bulk but their around in singles too. Why not run a 3k and some reds if you really feel the 2.7 is THAT much different then a 3k?

To me I would rather sacrafice the 300k and get more lumens for the same price or cheaper. That's me though.

I love my perp. Grow. I harvest two plants every 2 weeks pulling 6-9oz every 2 weeks. Than i have a tiny cab for my kali mist, dr.grinspoons those 14 week finishers. Nothing like a true 100% sativa

Thanks mate. I plan on well under-powering them as I think supra (some others have). I was looking at the meanwell LPC 60-1400 & 3070 cobs @ 3000k (but still a newby asking dumb questions.. i have no real opinion on colour temps.. nothing wrong with that fat bud). Iv'e not had a fan fail, just in the SGS but that was on the driver circuit and took out the LED as well. I just have this notion of simplifying things by leaving out the CPU fans.


(PS. I tried incandescents with my last grow for emmerson effect (15mins at lights out). Nothing measured and not used in the same way) but didn't take much longer and I ran right through 14/12 in flower. In my case I believe yield increased).

For your next harvest you should look into main lining it made a huge difference in my yeild. And there's not a inch of empty space on the canopy go with the 8 or 16colas.

Emerson effect is something a bit different involving PS1 and PS2 (photo-system 1 and 2) having a synergistic effect when both excited together.

730nm pulses at lights out is a way to convert the majority of Pfr into Pr. You know how turning the lights on at night totally fucks with their schedule and can cause reveg symptoms? Well 730nm does the opposite. It will undo the effects of waking them up, instantly putting them back to sleep just as fast.

The story is a bit different than JavaCo told it. The effect of 730nm light was discovered in the 30s or 40s I think, in a pretty epic experiment involving a giant 10kW incandescent lamp and a large glass prism, as well as water filtering to filter out IR.

Plants of various types were put in rows in the spectrum generated by the giant prism and 10kW incandescent. The type of plants were summer flowering plants rather than fall (like weed), so phytochromes had the opposite effect. Plants in the 660nm row had the most amount of flowers while plants in the 730nm didn't even grow at despite appearing almost exactly the same. Certain seeds in 730nm light did not germinate.

Honestly, we knew all this before ww2. I'm sure many people knew this was true for weed too. The biggest problem is convincing millions of stoners that a dim glow of 730nm at lights out will have any effect.

I was there in the early 2000s insisting the phytochrome thing must be true before anyone notable on weed forums had even tried. In 2003, wikipedia already had a pretty good explanation and charts on how phytochromes worked. Most people don't grow weed because they love plants. They just want to get rich quick, so they easily skip over these details.

Now, a 730nm pulse at lights out is the norm. It's standard convention with leds.

Lettuce seeds are well known for needing light to germinate. 730nm pulses to inhibit lettuce seed germination is botany 101 these days, literally. The lab experiments done involve sequences of R and FR (red and far red) pulses. The experiments all show that it's only the last pulse that matters.

R , FR, R, FR, R, dark (last is red. Will germinate)
R, FR, R, FR, R, FR , dark (last is far-red. Will not germinate)
R, FR, dark (last is far-red. Will not germinate)

All plants use the phytochrome system.

Btw, people who insist on germinating pot seeds in the dark have no scientific basis for this. I always make a point to germinate in the light for this very reason, and have always had high success, and fast results. Not only is germinating in the dark counter intuitive, it starts off their life thinking they should go into the stretch phase of flowering.

Thanks fir the correct info Church, I did search for more info on 730nm but didnt dig much up besides forum posts and a guy selling them. So what i know is pretty much forum read , not always the best place for correct info. If you have some sources on the subject please share, I would like to know more. Thanks

Tazbud , You could go passive no fans ,but your going to get more lumens out of the light if you run a fan. The cooler you can keep the LED means more of the wattage your putting in is converted to light ( lumens ) rather then heat. So i would recommend running a fan. This is the cheapest passive I found that will dissipate about 80 watts. You really dont need the 130 watt one if your only going to be running 50 watts. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816101827

purplegrower02 said:

I know a few people that do that but never knew it was a 730nm. Plus document if it really works because the only two people i know who do it don't write anything down not even start date flower date nothing so whenthey say ssomething works i take it with a grain of salt.

And it's not like comparing ice creams, the 3070 IS more efficient. Just wondering why you would go with the 3050 when the 3070 is $2 more, they do make 2.7k 3070s just in bulk but their around in singles too. Why not run a 3k and some reds if you really feel the 2.7 is THAT much different then a 3k?

To me I would rather sacrafice the 300k and get more lumens for the same price or cheaper. That's me though.

I love my perp. Grow. I harvest two plants every 2 weeks pulling 6-9oz every 2 weeks. Than i have a tiny cab for my kali mist, dr.grinspoons those 14 week finishers. Nothing like a true 100% sativa

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It is a simple as this you chose lumans over color. I chose color over lumens. The 2700k has more red in it then the 3000k. Really they both are great flowering chips. From the results i have seen from journals they are both yielding about the same. Either way you can't go wrong flowering with 2700k or 3000k

This is the way i look at it. Lumens dont grow buds. For example i can slap 200,000 lumens in my grow room of the color green. The plants will not grow at all with that color. So to me color is everything. I pick my colors FIRST then i worry about getting the most lumans in that color spectrum. For another example say i am building my 730nm. I find some 700nm that are brighter and only a bit more money. It is only 30nm difference it will still work right. No not the right color. So just a little bit can make a difference. Once again just to be clear i am not saying there is anything wrong with a 3000k. I just prefer to flower with 2700k

Week 1


Seems like the 730nm is working. The Indica didnt look like this till a bit more then 2 weeks last run without the 730nm.

Both the kush and the strawberry Cough mediums skyrocketed after i flushed the roots organics out of the medium. Not sure if i got the bottom of the barrel but that stuff is extremely acidic. Been thinking about just using it for PH down since it seems to be twice a strong as my Mad Farmers PH down. The kush is doing weird stuff but really i am surprised it is still even growing. I dropped a 2x6 on it about a month ago and completely flattened it. Pinched the split stem back together real quick and duck taped it. But i am pretty sure it is PH causing the Stunted growth. I guess i will try to do a weekly photo. So next week if they are still alive i will post the progress pic.

Cool, another DIY adventure. I'm hooked on this LED topic. Best of luck to you.

Scribed so hard.

Hey Javaco, nice grow you got going. Where did you get the 730nm leds, i've only seen 3w.

Kuifje76 said:

Hey Javaco, nice grow you got going. Where did you get the 730nm leds, i've only seen 3w.

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Thanks Mouser has them. Price has went up quit a bit. Paid 16 bucks a piece for mine. Here is the link http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LED-Engin/LZ4-40R300/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y1kHJl487Qqny72oCEIKzh8=

JavaCo said:

OH forgot to add i got proof the 2700k grows fat buds. I think it turned out pretty well considering it was my first harvest.

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This bud looks super larfy where is the bud? Looks like a ton of leaf to me enjoy trimming.