Your first grow room design: what worked, what didn't?

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
I've been growing for awhile now, both inside and out, so i though i had a good grasp on what was needed to design/build my first real room, no more Poly-walled off corner. Apparently construction planning isn't my strong suit..:wall:( I work with metal mostly, something gets messed up weld it and redo it, wood isn't as forgiving). I came up with a design/layout for a room , 8x12 total, divided into veg/clone/mother/work area and a flower area, its own electrical ( 2- 20A 110v circuits and 1 30a 240v circuit ) and water supply, filtered ventilation( intake and exhaust). I've had to change my design/layout at least 4 different times now, just during the building..can't wait till i get up and growing and see what isn't working out...:roll: . I wanted to see what things you did in your first room that either didn't work out or had to be changed once you got up and running and why? Maybe get some pointers out there for anyone doing their first room. Most of my issues are due to poor planning, along with a few bad measurements. Measure 3 times, cut once, still too short..:dunce:.

I didn't follow std framing practice because I thought "it's not structural". I put studs sideways every 48" on center just so i could sheath the room and didn't double stud the ends of walls( this is where i lost most of my interior space according to a friend who does framing). It made my room smaller than designed, supposed to be 8x12 inside, made it 8x12 +/- outside...which ended up around 7'8"x11'6" inside.
You say "what's a few inches?" I had originally designed the interior around 24"x48" grids for different growth stages, which won't fully work now. I'm going to end up with an odd area I'll need to custom build/modify a rack for and my 24"x48" flouro's might not work in that area. I had to move a couple hard mount power strips now so they don't get buried behind the racks I'll be using. I never factored in the width of the divider wall either which is contributing to loss of interior space.
I went from planning to use a 54gal rubbermaid tote as a holding tank, which would have fit out of the way under one of the 24"x48" racks that should have gone in the now odd sized area, but now won't fit, to a 55gal barrel. This made me move it outside the room because of space issues, breaking my first rule of "keep it all inside the room" for security reasons. Now i need to change my plumbing around,which i recently roughed in, to accommodate that change.
When i wrapped the room in black poly I never took note of where the existing plumbing and electrical was in the floor joists that i was covering, so i had to cut it down and redo it, so i knew where they were and didn't put a screw or nail through a pipe or wire..:shock:.

So what were some of your "oops" or just poor designs that you ended up changing and why. Or just basic construction pointers that someone outside of the field might not think about. What are some thing to look out for when designing a room?

Here's a couple i learned the hard way:

If you can, have at least one other person you trust around to discuss plans, a second set of eyes could have caught most of my issues, sometimes security overrides this.

measure, measure, measure, and write down your measurements, i forgot stuff walking from one end of the house to the other..lol. ( i guess don't heavily medicate while working would fall in here too)

factor in your saw blade width in your cuts, stack up 3 or 4 cuts and your off by a 1/2"

Check for square, level and plumb. I went off existing foundation walls i assumed were....they weren't, my room is now a weird trapezoidal shape by a few inches every direction., again messing with my interior planning/space.
 
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ghb

Well-Known Member
sorry no time to read it all and give a proper reply but it looks like you put some effort in here so i'll call back later and edit my shit to give a proper response.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
In a small space I needed more heat so put electric fan heater in facing the wall. There wasn't enough space for the hot air to spread out before coming into contact with plants and I cooked two of them.

Sooo many more daft mistakes too. This is a good thread
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Don't use shit duct tape. Don't know how good it is in the U.S. but in the U.K. it's shit. The best brand we've got is acctually called American duct tape.
If you stick Mylar or orca or black and white sheeting to your walls make sure it stays there coz if it falls off and ur not there it could easily cause all manner of problems
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
I've setup/changed a bunch. One thing I'm not going to do any more and I see recommended all the time is flat white paint on the walls. It is the most reflective, but from now on its high-gloss or anti-microbial/bathroom paint.

Flat white seems to suck in moisture, and gets dirty immediately, and you pretty much have to paint over it to clean it properly.

If its not reflective enough you can use panda or orca (not mylar) to cover it.

- Jiji
 

drolove

Well-Known Member
i pretty much got it figured out these days but i remember going through the troubles of building grow rooms. had WAY too high humidity once and ended up with stunted plants and mold. could never fix that one for many a reason, just had to move the grow elsewhere. a couple times i built a room that didnt have enough airflow and had to get a bigger fan with more CFM to keep everything cool enough. not enough airflow blowing the plants around left me with weak, small stemmed plants that fell all over themselfs. tried using cfls and t5 lighting for my first grow. learned that fluorescent lighting doesnt belong in the grow room. i dont even like cloning under fluorescent any more. get better results myself with low wattage HID than fluorescent lighting.

good luck with your grow room construction! hope you get it figured out!
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Don't use shit duct tape. Don't know how good it is in the U.S. but in the U.K. it's shit. The best brand we've got is acctually called American duct tape.
If you stick Mylar or orca or black and white sheeting to your walls make sure it stays there coz if it falls off and ur not there it could easily cause all manner of problems
Funny, I actually made a point of buying 3M brand duct tape, assuming it would be a better quality being a well recognized brand name..not at all..it started peeling off once my room got warm. I ended up buying Nashua brand, which I've used before, it's cheaper than 3m and seems to be more industrial. I staple up my poly then put tape over the staples to seal it, probably overkill, but that's how i roll.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
I've setup/changed a bunch. One thing I'm not going to do any more and I see recommended all the time is flat white paint on the walls. It is the most reflective, but from now on its high-gloss or anti-microbial/bathroom paint.

Flat white seems to suck in moisture, and gets dirty immediately, and you pretty much have to paint over it to clean it properly.

If its not reflective enough you can use panda or orca (not mylar) to cover it.

- Jiji
Paint shouldn't absorb any moisture, sure it wasn't just primer you put up, that will absorb moisture. But yeah any "flat" paint does get dirty quick, it has a surface texture that lets dirt cling. Watch out for any antifungal/anti mold paints, I've read a few things where the additives in them can be bad, even poisonous, for grow room environments. B&W poly/panda film is the way to go, it's plastic so it seals and non absorbent, smooth so it's easy to wipe down, and cheap and easy to replace/repair if needed
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
Paint shouldn't absorb any moisture, sure it wasn't just primer you put up, that will absorb moisture. But yeah any "flat" paint does get dirty quick, it has a surface texture that lets dirt cling. Watch out for any antifungal/anti mold paints, I've read a few things where the additives in them can be bad, even poisonous, for grow room environments. B&W poly/panda film is the way to go, it's plastic so it seals and non absorbent, smooth so it's easy to wipe down, and cheap and easy to replace/repair if needed
I've used both and yeah the paint that seemed to absorb water was flat white primer. My mistake. Thanks for the tip, and yeah I don't know about any side effects of anti-fungal or mold paints and I have never used them, it just sounded good.

- Jiji
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
A big one I see all the time with beginners is no airflow. A friend of mine grew some plants in a closet with only a circulating fan. He never had any means of exchanging air. He grew some weed but nothing special. A lot of noobs mistake extraction with circulation.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
I've switched to run to waste top feed hydro. When building my current room I under estimated the work involved in emptying my 60l waste bucket every other day. When I rebuild I will be doing it properly and plumbing my Aqua trAys into the bathroom waste. Gone are my days of worrying about run off.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
I liked reading so far..keep it coming.

Im about to put in my ducting. I have a 600 watt cool tube, I am making a room in a room (i do have a 2x7x8 DxWxH closet with sliding doors that i could put a hole through to the bathroom for a lung room type) bht my plan was to separate my 8x10x8 DxWxH with 2x4 and durofoam with the panda on it, not sure what dimension to make it? Should i even enclose it off?

Either way, my question is how should the ventilation be? Intake fan up high on other side of room than carbon filter, and then have inline fan blow air from a different room through my cool tube and out a carbon filter?
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
I liked reading so far..keep it coming.

Im about to put in my ducting. I have a 600 watt cool tube, I am making a room in a room (i do have a 2x7x8 DxWxH closet with sliding doors that i could put a hole through to the bathroom for a lung room type) bht my plan was to separate my 8x10x8 DxWxH with 2x4 and durofoam with the panda on it, not sure what dimension to make it? Should i even enclose it off?

Either way, my question is how should the ventilation be? Intake fan up high on other side of room than carbon filter, and then have inline fan blow air from a different room through my cool tube and out a carbon filter?
I forgot i started this..lol. I'd split the room in 2 - 5x8x8's, or maybe even 6x8x8 for flower, and a 4x8x8 for veg/clone/moms.. but it all depends on what your going for, personal? want to grow some extra? maximum production? I've designed mine for max production , but will be running it for personal use reasons for now

intake low,put your exhaust up high, pull through your carbon scrubber, something like carbon filter>light>fan>exit . You could also run your lights on their own cooling circuit, pull air from outside and exhaust outside, then you won't need to scrub it because it never touches the room air, ut it adds the cost of a second fan..

I set my room up to vent both chambers with one fan and carbon filter, I'm going to run random auto's in the veg side so i needed full scrubbing. My light is my heat so it's not vented, but come summer ill run it on separate ventilation if i need it. My room exhaust is mounted high in the veg chamber, pulling through a carbon filter. i have lightproof venting between the rooms and 2 12x12 passive intakes covered with whole house filters, intake at ground level in the flower room. My thinking is i will be pulling cool dry air into the flower side, then that air will be warmed and humidified, pulled into the veg side, them scrubbed and exhausted. I have been considering adding a passive vent to the veg side and installing some opening/closing air vent louvers over all intakes and between rooms so i can control airflow better.
 

bravedave

Well-Known Member
I've used both and yeah the paint that seemed to absorb water was flat white primer. My mistake. Thanks for the tip, and yeah I don't know about any side effects of anti-fungal or mold paints and I have never used them, it just sounded good.

- Jiji
Thought it was you, but now I remember it was "Snaps" who suggested white satin exterior house paint. But yeah same principal. Cleans up great. Reflects just fine.
 

Cowboy Kahlil

Well-Known Member
I've used both and yeah the paint that seemed to absorb water was flat white primer. My mistake. Thanks for the tip, and yeah I don't know about any side effects of anti-fungal or mold paints and I have never used them, it just sounded good.

- Jiji
Doing fire restoration work we used white varnish (Zinsser BIN 1-2-3) to seal in smoke smells in attics. Couple that with an eggshell or satin Behr interior white (at Home Depot0 which has zero VOC (no after-smell).

Or try this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ANViL-ROOF-TEC-1-gal-Ultra-Siliconized-and-Microcell-Elastomeric-White-Roof-Coating-880001/204744379

Itdoes have a smell while drying but once dry, it's sealed waterproof and no residual smells
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
Doing fire restoration work we used white varnish (Zinsser BIN 1-2-3) to seal in smoke smells in attics. Couple that with an eggshell or satin Behr interior white (at Home Depot0 which has zero VOC (no after-smell).

Or try this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ANViL-ROOF-TEC-1-gal-Ultra-Siliconized-and-Microcell-Elastomeric-White-Roof-Coating-880001/204744379

Itdoes have a smell while drying but once dry, it's sealed waterproof and no residual smells
Funny you mention that. Just the other day I was talking to a painter, he said eggshell should work good. Then he thought for a minute and started talking about the roof coating, I never heard of it and forgot to look into it.

- Jiji
 

Cowboy Kahlil

Well-Known Member
I recall reading about flat paint and elastomeric roof sealant being good for grow rooms awhile ago. But when you folks mentioned flat absorbing moisture and mildew control, I searched through several elastomerics. This one is siliconized acrylic so it should seal solid and is very reflective. And don't pay attention to it
s coverage... it will likely cover at least twice the sq. footage that the can says. (On a roof you'd pour it on much thicker.)
 

Mad_Prophessor

Well-Known Member
**Most of these apply to tent growing**

-Always use analog timers. Digital timers wont turn back on unless they have a battery. Analog timers will lose however long they were out, but they will kick right back on with only the slight time delay.

-Get a submersible pump, a 30+ gallon Rubbermaid garbage can, a pocket hose, and a water wand to make your life easy.

-Mop buckets and litter box trays are inexpensive starter garden supplies that will never grow old.

-In a hot climate (or grow area), air cooled hoods work a ton better if you buy jackets for the hoods and keep the fans and ballast out of the tents.

-If you remove the spray end on 2 gal pump sprayers, they a great for mixing food in and having a wand to feed.

-Use clear ducting between your hoods so the light goes into your garden instead of staying in the aluminum ducting.

-YO-YO light hangers suck! Get the ratchet ones you cheap fuckers! :)

-Don't waste your money buying Ona, plug in air fresheners with the oil do the same thing.

That's all I have for now.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Use clear ducting between your hoods so the light goes into your garden instead of staying in the aluminum ducting.
That's a good idea, never even considered it..might not be a huge increase but every little bit helps

-YO-YO light hangers suck! Get the ratchet ones you cheap fuckers! :)
And teach people how to use them..I had just hung my new 6 bulb T5 about 10 minutes before asking my bud to take it down, we were mocking up things. I saw him reach up and then BAM!!!! my light smashed into the floor, bent the reflectors, busted 3 bulbs..all he did was release the lock without holding the cords, he always used hangers that had spring tension holding them up, he didn't think it would free wheel. I almost cried until we realized it still worked. He replaced the bulbs with some upgraded ones and i just straightened the reflectors.
 
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