Coco and ppm help

ec121

Well-Known Member
im honestly not sure what the difference is between a fertilizer made for coco and one that isnt. but i would also assume that the amount of iron is different as well not just cal mag :D,
Yes, it has additional iron. All calmag supps have iron, so if one were to use General H, Botanicare, Humbodlts, the additional 0.1% of iron in those supps will make up for the additional 0.07% of iron in AN coco A&B.

if you dont mind me asking how much ppm's do you feed your plants? is 1200 ppm too much? if it is too much how much should i be feeding? please help i only have 2 grows under my belt with coco and you have years of experience :D <3 :3

also i dont fertigate multiple times a day because my plant is small(29 days alive from seed) and my pot is big(3 gallon pot). dr.mj coco from coco for cannabis says that if your coco has enough perlite in it you can water again after the plant drinks up 10% of the water in the pot but my coco has no perlite in it lol.

i honestly believe that if i tried feeding multiple times a day i would run into over-watering issues. but maybe im wrong? dunno lol but i dont plan too find out :P
I listed the EC levels I feed at in post #27. They are roughly the EC recommendations Dr. Coco suggests.

I don't use perlite either, but I grow in 1gal pots. If you feed multiple times per day, that 4 weeks from seed plant should be big. The key to not using perlite is to make sure you sift out much of the coco peat (coco dust or coffee ground sized coco) so that you're left with a good amount of fibrous coco. Even if you didn't, by early to mid-veg it will have a good enough root structure to obtain enough oxygen during high-frequency fertigation.

If you're not feeding at least once a day, you're not taking advantage of the opportunities that coco provides and you should probably just grow in peat.
 

secretmicrogrow420

Well-Known Member
Yes, it has additional iron. All calmag supps have iron, so if one were to use General H, Botanicare, Humbodlts, the additional 0.1% of iron in those supps will make up for the additional 0.07% of iron in AN coco A&B.



I listed the EC levels I feed at in post #27. They are roughly the EC recommendations Dr. Coco suggests.

I don't use perlite either, but I grow in 1gal pots. If you feed multiple times per day, that 4 weeks from seed plant should be big. The key to not using perlite is to make sure you sift out much of the coco peat (coco dust or coffee ground sized coco) so that you're left with a good amount of fibrous coco. Even if you didn't, by early to mid-veg it will have a good enough root structure to obtain enough oxygen during high-frequency fertigation.

If you're not feeding at least once a day, you're not taking advantage of the opportunities that coco provides and you should probably just grow in peat.
being real i am thinking about going to promix hp( i think this is peat) but from what i understand is in promix you cant feed everytime that you water and thats the only thing holding me back :(

also i saw you said 1.3-1.6ec in flower thank you so if i convert 1.3/1.6ec into ppm this is what i get
1.3 x 500 = 650, 1.3 x 640 = 832, 1.3 x 700 = 910 / 1.6 x 500 = 800, 1.6 x 640 = 1024, 1.6 x 700 = 1120

so in flower your feeding around 650ppm to 1120 ppm?

sorry for bothering you thanks for your help man :)
 

ec121

Well-Known Member
being real i am thinking about going to promix hp( i think this is peat) but from what i understand is in promix you cant feed everytime that you water and thats the only thing holding me back :(
Is the plant you posted on the previous page the one in question? If so, you should be feeding that 2x a day. If you do, you will understand why people grow in coco.

When I grew in peat, I fed every time I watered, but it would be once every 3-7 days.

also i saw you said 1.3-1.6ec in flower thank you so if i convert 1.3/1.6ec into ppm this is what i get
1.3 x 500 = 650, 1.3 x 640 = 832, 1.3 x 700 = 910 / 1.6 x 500 = 800, 1.6 x 640 = 1024, 1.6 x 700 = 1120

so in flower your feeding around 650ppm to 1120 ppm?

sorry for bothering you thanks for your help man :)
Bro, which ppm scale does your pen use, 500, 640, or 700? You should just use EC because it's universal and you don't have to worry about which ppm scale conversion someone is using.

In the states, we use the 500 scale conversion, so flower would be between 1.3 and 1.6 EC (depending on the cultivar), so that would be between 650 and 800 PPM.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
being real i am thinking about going to promix hp( i think this is peat) but from what i understand is in promix you cant feed everytime that you water and thats the only thing holding me back :(

also i saw you said 1.3-1.6ec in flower thank you so if i convert 1.3/1.6ec into ppm this is what i get
1.3 x 500 = 650, 1.3 x 640 = 832, 1.3 x 700 = 910 / 1.6 x 500 = 800, 1.6 x 640 = 1024, 1.6 x 700 = 1120

so in flower your feeding around 650ppm to 1120 ppm?

sorry for bothering you thanks for your help man :)
Oh? I feed every time with Promix HP. Depending on the plants it's every other day or every 3 days...though I feed to 25% runoff. Usually running 4-5g Maxibloom, Ca/Mg, Epsom salt. Sort of like a slightly slow moving hydro setup. Somewhere in the 800-950PPM (1.6-1.8EC) range.
 

ec121

Well-Known Member
It’s my first time in coco watering everyday. I’ve been watering once a day. I may back down to every other day for a week or so and see how it goes.
It looks like the roots aren't getting enough oxygen - not sure of the coco/perlite prep method you used, but the 68F is working against you. Is that a gallon pot?

I once had a good genetic that took 2x as long to show a taproot and got strangled by the daily fertigating while the others from the same family were having no issues at all in cold temps. I kept watering the others daily and let that one go for almost a week without feeding (i.e., watering). After two times of this, the the root structure was good enough to daily feed. It then took off like a rocket ship and almost caught up to the others. By stretch in flower, it was towering over the others.
 

Billybill

Member
It looks like the roots aren't getting enough oxygen - not sure of the coco/perlite prep method you used, but the 68F is working against you. Is that a gallon pot?

I once had a good genetic that took 2x as long to show a taproot and got strangled by the daily fertigating while the others from the same family were having no issues at all in cold temps. I kept watering the others daily and let that one go for almost a week without feeding (i.e., watering). After two times of this, the the root structure was good enough to daily feed. It then took off like a rocket ship and almost caught up to the others. By stretch in flower, it was towering over the others.
It’s a little wider than a solo cup. I think im going to back off the watering some. I upped the base and the temps.
 

Under the Radar

Well-Known Member
I reread coco for cana a few weeks ago because my new seedlings were usually pale and not as energetic as I thought coco should be.

Once I started watering to runoff 2 times per day they greened up and are thriving. This is in 50/50 coco perlite.

Follow his crazy, but detailed instructions and it seems to work well.
 

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
Personally I would run a shitload of a weak nutrient solution through it and then start feeding twice a day to run off.
But based on a lot of your responses........you're going to do what you want anyway.
You can lead them to water.
Good luck to you.
 

Billybill

Member
Personally I would run a shitload of a weak nutrient solution through it and then start feeding twice a day to run off.
But based on a lot of your responses........you're going to do what you want anyway.
You can lead them to water.
Good luck to you.
I was hesitant to post on here because of all the negativity. I’ve read everything. The reply’s all contradict each other so I’m going with the ones that make the most sense. I’ve been feeding once a day and it looks super over watered. Like i said…. I don’t care if it dies, I just want to figure it out. Way to be “one of those people”.
 

Under the Radar

Well-Known Member
With coco your not only replacing nutrients the plant is using, but also the water the plant used so the nutrients left behind don’t burn the roots. Coco is interesting because your not only adding fresh fed every water; your adding water to the fed in the root zone so they don’t burn if they drink more water than take in fed. It’s a balance.

Your almost there:
fed twice a day ( a few hours after lights on and midway through the day if possible.)
Get the temp up to 80-85
RH in veg 70%

The lights are like the accelerator and the fed is the fuel. Can’t drive faster than the fuel will allow. The environment for LEDs should be really warm with a high Rh in veg dropping into late flower.

Measuring light level isn’t a bad idea either. A few bucks and an app for your phone can help dial in the light.

Good luck.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
I was hesitant to post on here because of all the negativity. I’ve read everything. The reply’s all contradict each other so I’m going with the ones that make the most sense. I’ve been feeding once a day and it looks super over watered. Like i said…. I don’t care if it dies, I just want to figure it out. Way to be “one of those people”.
Your temps are far too low for vigorous growth.
One unique aspect of coco coir is that it has ample oxygen even when fully saturated; i.e. other than delicate seedlings, it's all but impossible to over-water coco.
Coco should be fertigated daily at least, frequency will be contingent on the pot and plant size. I'm currently using 1.5gal pots and fertigate 5x with 20% runoff.
Coco should not be allowed to dry back dramatically.

These points are common knowledge for growing with coco and shouldn't be controversial, ignore them at your peril.
 

Billybill

Member
Your temps are far too low for vigorous growth.
One unique aspect of coco coir is that it has ample oxygen even when fully saturated; i.e. other than delicate seedlings, it's all but impossible to over-water coco.
Coco should be fertigated daily at least, frequency will be contingent on the pot and plant size. I'm currently using 1.5gal pots and fertigate 5x with 20% runoff.
Coco should not be allowed to dry back dramatically.

These points are common knowledge for growing with coco and shouldn't be controversial, ignore them at your peril.
I was figuring the temp was way low. I’m used to temps being to high. I have a couple others that I’ve been watering everyday that look fine. I’m going to switch to another room in the house that it’ll be about 80 temp and 55 rh. I have a drip system I’m going to set up and start feeding multiple times a day on my good plants. I’ll probably euthanize the seedling either way. I don’t want to run into problems later on by the stress. I’ve grown in coco and treated it like soil which was a mistake. It was all good till flower.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TCH

k0rps

Well-Known Member
I was hesitant to post on here because of all the negativity. I’ve read everything. The reply’s all contradict each other so I’m going with the ones that make the most sense. I’ve been feeding once a day and it looks super over watered. Like i said…. I don’t care if it dies, I just want to figure it out. Way to be “one of those people”.
Just throwing some ideas out there..

Light green/small pot: may be root damage from being over saturated and cold. I have used a heat mat with a controller (with sensor in pot) to germinate seeds with success. It's worked well for me keeping temps around 78°f.

When plants (esp seeds, taproot) are left in too small of pots, roots will get a bit funky, brown out and die off if not properly kept up with. My current clones have been in 2in*2in pots for about 6 weeks now, maybe longer. Threw out most of them and the others are recovering from root damage.

LEDs are powerful. When first growing with LED I had to learn about the variables other posters have mentioned, ie higher temps (80-85°f), daily watering once root system is fully established,
feeding nutes each time (5.8-6.2 ph), getting an app or device that measures LUX or PPFD to match with recommended levels for each stage of growth. I have learned to dial the light back, 60-75%. In most cases, my light was just too strong for what the plants could handle..

I hope this helps!
Good luck on your grow ~ :blsmoke::leaf:
 
Last edited:

k0rps

Well-Known Member
I was figuring the temp was way low. I’m used to temps being to high. I have a couple others that I’ve been watering everyday that look fine. I’m going to switch to another room in the house that it’ll be about 80 temp and 55 rh. I have a drip system I’m going to set up and start feeding multiple times a day on my good plants. I’ll probably euthanize the seedling either way. I don’t want to run into problems later on by the stress. I’ve grown in coco and treated it like soil which was a mistake. It was all good till flower.
Do you have pics of your other plants?
 

Billybill

Member
I wanted to post the conclusion on here so if anyone looks this up 10 years from now they at least can get some sort of answer….. I hate when threads just die with no conclusion. I moved the plant to a different room. It’s 75 degrees and 60 rh on the average with light on. 66 degrees with lights off. When I did that the plant started to green back up. I gave it a week with nothing much happening other than it was greening back up. I up potted it to a 2 gallon and after about 5 days it took off. I date stamped the pics to make things a little easier.
 

Attachments

Billybill

Member
Here’s a pic of my auto I have going next to it. I switched from a hlg 65 to a hlg 100. Had to raise it. I got some light bleaching. It only took about 2 days to bleach them pretty good. Other than that I worked up to about 900 ppm and I’m dropping it right now for the final couple of weeks.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: TCH
Top