...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
rosswaa said:
Breathes fine (when it works lol) we don't need 6l v8s, we don't have the roads for that

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where i live roads blow. you can go looking for a good road butnot many near here.

also i Never see an expensive car really cruising. you might see a random Mercedes or jag coming up on 100mph. But in warm weather bikes at 150 + isnt super uncommon.

the likelihood of catching a skilled driver cornering at competitive speed is wicked rare


EDIT:Sorry i have corrupted this thread.
 
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rosswaa

rosswaa

Well-Known Member
testiclees said:
where i live roads blow. you can go looking for a good road butnot many near here.

also i Never see an expensive car really cruising. you might see a random nercedes ir jag coming up on 100mph. But in warm weather bikes at 150 + isnt super uncommon.

the likelihood of catching a skilled driver taking a cornering at competeive speed is wicked rare


EDIT:Sorry i have corrupted this thread.
Click to expand...
Bikes are where its at for pure fun, corners are your friend!



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P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
rosswaa said:
If a driver goes it goes, you still have to climb in and replace it. There's also an expectancy there. I know mine could go at any time so have backups, where as someone might think it'll last so won't need a backup

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Click to expand...
except that with a cheap driver I may have to change them out 2 or 3 times as often as a 5 year plus driver. trust me you do not want to be around me when I have to break the grow down to service a light.
 
rosswaa

rosswaa

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
except that with a cheap driver I may have to change them out 2 or 3 times as often as a 5 year plus driver. trust me you do not want to be around me when I have to break the grow down to service a light.
Click to expand...
Which is why I said for someone on a budget that's going to be upgrading later on they're fine and get the job done.
I'm not comparing the 2, quality wise Chinese isn't great but aslong as they get the job done then go for it.

I'll be switching out to meanwells aslong as everything runs right at
50v 1.4-1.5amps, I ordered the Chinese to tie me over untill next pay which looking at it was retarded because o doubt the LEDs will even arrive by then. And they're being used as a test bed to make sure temps are inline etc

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littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
QUOTE="AquariusPanta, post: 11809429, member: 886695"]Sup people. I recently went a different route on a recent DIY build and was wondering how well it performed in a 3' x 3' space. Here are the results:

View attachment 3474197[/QUOTE]
Bonjour
Are the cobs on a same pannel (h.s)
How they are.spaced?
With 4 pannel with one cob on each, each placed in the center of each quarter of the box, would not give better lights spread???!!
Have a great day ★
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
bicit said:
Yes a very basic lux meter would be good to compare relative intensities over a canopy. Say for instance measuring the intensity of a lamp at a given distance or with a different set of optics. It would NOT be a good way to compare the intensities of different CCT lights sources. For example, 2700k vs 5000k. That's where a quality spectroradiometer comes into play.
Click to expand...
B, when using a basic lux meter to examine intensity at canopy level what readings would be ideal during flowering with a 11 on / 13 off lighting schedule. Im using vero 29 and cxb 3590s.

Thanks for the info.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
testiclees said:
B, when using a basic lux meter to examine intensity at canopy level what readings would be ideal during flowering with a 11 on / 13 off lighting schedule. Im using vero 29 and cxb 3590s.

Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...
Bonjour
@testiclees why 11/13 for a shorter flo?
Next grow I will try 730nm after lights off 10,15mn and go 14/10
C.U
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
QUOTE="testiclees, post: 11810298, member: 833866"]its so bright in there i dont think 12 hours makes sense. 550w ~10 sq ft.
im adding a 54 w uvb bulb next week. im gonna run it maybe 2-3 hrs per day. Im optimistic. the vero alone does great.[/QUOTE]
Bonjour
You do not have a potentiometer on your driver?
Do you have a 100X100X200.3X3X7?
C.U
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
littlejacob said:
QUOTE="testiclees, post: 11810298, member: 833866"]its so bright in there i dont think 12 hours makes sense. 550w ~10 sq ft.
im adding a 54 w uvb bulb next week. im gonna run it maybe 2-3 hrs per day. Im optimistic. the vero alone does great.
Click to expand...
Bonjour
You do not have a potentiometer on your driver?
Do you have a 100X100X200.3X3X7?
C.U[/QUOTE]
its abou 26" x 50". 60" of height available.

Ya the drivers are dimable but only those that drive the cxbs. I think its better to keep it bright for an 11hr period to hasten finish and save energy.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
I don't think there is really any worry with stock applications, where a thorough spread is just as important as transfer impedance.....
I still like the PK1 personally....10% less impendance and costs 60% less than Prolimatech pk3......[Supra's personal choice] :peace:
Click to expand...
Lately I have been experimenting with Arctic MX2. It is faster/easier to apply, less toxic, cheaper and for our appliction it seems to perform just as well as premium paste. The only things I have been able to do to get temp droop lower, run them softer or reduce heatsink temp/gradient by increasing fan speed or increasing heatsink mass and surface area.

AquariusPanta said:
Sup people. I recently went a different route on a recent DIY build and was wondering how well it performed in a 3' x 3' space. Here are the results:

View attachment 3474197
Click to expand...
Numbers look good. I finally caved in and got a PAR meter to experiment with (Apogee SQ-120 $100 used). I always complain that it is inaccurate for red/deep red but I liked the point that greengenes made, it will always read low and I can live with that. You mentioned they have adjustments for each color temp of Vero, do they do that for Cree CX also?
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I think MX4 is the stock paste used on the Arctic Alpine 11, works great I cannot tell the difference between that and PK3. I went with MX2 to test the theory that thermal paste was not bottle necking our temp droop. It is supposed to be easier to apply than MX4 and a bit cheaper in bulk, 65g of MX2 for $32-$34. They both claim 8 year durability but MX4 claims 8.5 W/(mK) and MX-2 claims 5.6 W/(mK).

@AquariusPanta do you keep the MX4 on your Alpine 11s?
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
captainmorgan said:
MX4 is the best on the market last time I checked,I've been using MX for years on computers.
Click to expand...
For six years ( 2008-2014 ) best ( non-conductive & non-corrosive ) thermal paste ,
was GC Gelid Extreme ,according to many tests done .
But GC Gelid Extreme is a real PITA to apply in a thin layer .
(At least for me ... )

Best thermal paste for year 2015 is considered to be, the new Kryonaut from Thermal Grizzly.

MX2 & MX4 ,as also PK2 & PK3 are left far behind ,regarding their performance ...

More info :

http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/12/

http://www.play3r.net/reviews/cooling/thermal-paste-comparison-2015-best-thermal-paste/3/

http://forum.techinferno.com/alienware/7460-tested-all-thermal-paste-range-best-them.html

Cheers.
:peace:
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
guod said:
yup...
1.place
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

next is
fischer WLPK 3

the rest is overclockers marketing shit!
Click to expand...
Yes ..
http://www.led-professional.com/products/led-thermal-management/fischer-elektronik-introduces-new-wlpk-heat-conducting-paste

But way expensive (at least here ...)

Almost 22 Euros ( !!! ) for the 3 ml syringe ...
http://www.marelectronics.gr/products.php?id=27947&lang=en

While ....
http://www.eworld.com.gr/products/details/3399

http://www.pc1.gr/showitem.php?ID=200026753

http://www.pc1.gr/showitem.php?ID=200025234

But then again ,also Kryonaut paste is very expensive ...
Nearby in Italy ..
https://www.ybris-cooling.it/paste-termiche/8196-thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-pasta-termica-111-g-3-ml-125-w-mk.html

Cheers.
 
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