Foliar Spray Receipts.!?

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
not a question of microbes... question of fungus in the soil.... and it is a fungicide... so i'm imagining it does.
You're probably right.. but I cannot say for certain.

I would be so concerned tho with PM in the room if it were me I would be getting new soil.. and obtaining cuttings.. but that is just me.

PM is a bitch to deal with. Whatever you do.. however it plays out.. I wish you the best of luck.. It's tough going through that.
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Mines handmade BTW.

3gallons total.
Up to the following amounts:
1/4 cup fermented fruit extract
1/4 cup calcium phosphate (aq in vinegar) from bones
1/4 cup fermented fish aminos
1/4 cup fragrant plant extract (marigold, horehound, garlic, peppers, neem, onion, looking for antioxidants as well)
1/4 cup EM e
1 cup molasses

Air with a pump and weighted stones or vortex brewer.

That's a veg spray and may be used on flowering plants. You can tune npk values by adjusting the fruits you extract. For instance, high potassium fruit would make a nice extractand complement the phosphates for bud forming. And maybe no fish around that time but that's obvious
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
not a question of microbes... question of fungus in the soil.... and it is a fungicide... so i'm imagining it does.

yeah i'm one of those guys. I used to use what I thought were organic products, but in reality they are still full of chelators and other things. I'm done with that. I want my soil to live! :)

I build my soil from scratch, individual ingredients, and understand how and why it works. I'm tired of throwing away soil. gettin into the 20gal no till containers and i will also be doing 7gal living soil single runs, and recycling that soil for future grows. your soil in organics is your biggest and most important investment. you get the soil right, and the plant grows itself. i'm not even worried about the plant anymore. i'm worried about the soil, and keeping it alive and healthy! I want to be a more sustainable grower too. what happens when the hydro stores disappear because of bullshit laws, or worse, monsanto (yes he's got his hands in the hydro world). i'll have my soil and natural ingredients that are easy to obtain to amend it and i'll be laughin it up!

I've grown plenty of buds in my 5 years doing this, and the more i make this switch to real organic growing, the better my final product has become with every harvest. the initial investment, as with any grow, is the biggest expense. but once you get one of everything... you have a lot of amended soil.

as they say, to each his own. we all achieve the results we are individually looking for in the end. just different ways to get there for different folks.
Do you guys recycle your soil through other plants? The soil will think you are a substinance farmer just mono cropping year after year and eventually the plant will get a sickly life.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Do you guys recycle your soil through other plants? The soil will think you are a substinance farmer just mono cropping year after year and eventually the plant will get a sickly life.
I'm not sure what you're referring to with this post... or if you're just being a smart ass lol.

the no-till containers yes, eventually need to be broken up and reamended and fluffed. but this is every 4-6 cycles and for some with killer soil can be even longer. i still dont need to throw away anything. saves $$ and saves the microherd i work so hard to try and keep populated

monocropping can easily be be overcome by planting cover crops of all sorts of plants.

plenty of ways to make the soil diverse.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAAahUKEwjmmqS4irjIAhWP_YAKHd6lDk4&url=https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/download.php?id=126&usg=AFQjCNFnaIpabV2kEdfDgG1-S7qVPS0LAg&sig2=Ly2S7v8m7LqktwhMNx1MJA

i was reading this article about the powder mildew today. Seems that when you use a bicarbonate against powder mildew it is only effective when you use an oil with it!!!!! the oil helps the bicarbonate to stick to the leaf (duh!) and that makes the difference! no wonder just baking soda and water didn't do shit for my garden this summer as PM raped and pilaged all my wonderful pumpkin, squash, melon, and cucumber plants :(

the oil they are saying to use is mineral oil, but all the mineral oil products are like 2% petroleum something or other. But I'm thinking is that neem/karanja oil will do just fine. I'm going to get some food grade potassium bicarbonate. they were actually claiming that the potassium bicarbonate application actually prevented the disease from coming back...

so as soon as i get a recipe together, i'll post it up here.
 

norcal mmj

Well-Known Member
Are you sure that it's PM? Only saying this because Dr Who has good mold/mildew resistance. In fact right on the TGA website it says.."This strain is super powdery mildew resistant"

I've battled PM before and it's no fun. Eagle20-EW all the way. lol
Eagle 20 is poison, when combusted. That's why you can't use it on anything you smoke. It's systemic and stays in your plant for a long time. It turn to hydrogen cyanide, just what you want to breath in.
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
Well I can't back up what you're saying but I can say.. after the dissipation rate of myclobutanil has completed.. there is nothing left that would be combustable to light on fire or breathe in. it is dissipated.. gone. I'm not going to spend a long time again finding the rate of dissipation from the web but it does dissipate in less than 30 days.

it's used in the industry quite a bit actually.. some are for it, some against.. but petty arguing on a forum over it accomplishes nothing. the facts, and studies, and labels, and resources re: the use of Eagle20EW are all over the net. I think it makes more sense to let the grower decide for himself by reading those which are factual evidence from clinical studies rather than some guy online saying.. POISON!! cuz thats what always happens when you mention using Eagle20ew.. you'll get a few people who support it.. a few who won't go near it. I however, trust modern day science and the many studies and folks who say the dissipation would have completed before I harvested my product.
 
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Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Are you sure that it's PM? Only saying this because Dr Who has good mold/mildew resistance. In fact right on the TGA website it says.."This strain is super powdery mildew resistant"

I've battled PM before and it's no fun. Eagle20-EW all the way. lol
Eagle 20EW specialty fungicide is labeled for use on more than 100 ornamental plants in greenhouses or field-grown plantings for the control of powdery mildew, rust, scab and various leaf spot diseases. Consult the Eagle 20EW label if plant growth regulators will be used in treated areas.

Eagle-20 is not for food crops, just saying. Nine dispensaries were shut down in CO mainly for using Eagle-20 and other ornamental use only chemicals. This is the organic section, just saying...


P-
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Well I can't back up what you're saying but I can say.. after the dissipation rate of myclobutanil has completed.. there is nothing left that would be combustable to light on fire or breathe in. it is dissipated.. gone. I'm not going to spend a long time again finding the rate of dissipation from the web but it does dissipate in less than 30 days.

it's used in the industry quite a bit actually.. some are for it, some against.. but petty arguing on a forum over it accomplishes nothing. the facts, and studies, and labels, and resources re: the use of Eagle20EW are all over the net. I think it makes more sense to let the grower decide for himself by reading those which are factual evidence from clinical studies rather than some guy online saying.. POISON!! cuz thats what always happens when you mention using Eagle20ew.. you'll get a few people who support it.. a few who won't go near it. I however, trust modern day science and the many studies and folks who say the dissipation would have completed before I harvested my product.
Dissapation with a systemic fungicide? Please do more reading on your poison before posting this crap in the organic section...

http://www.westword.com/news/denver-investigated-10-pot-grows-for-use-of-banned-pesticides-holds-plants-6654706

P-
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Dissapation with a systemic fungicide? Please do more reading on your poison before posting this crap in the organic section...

http://www.westword.com/news/denver-investigated-10-pot-grows-for-use-of-banned-pesticides-holds-plants-6654706

P-
thank you, i was just going to say that you cant dissipate something that is permanently inside the plant. that is why eagle20 is on my absolutely not list. the lemon juice is doing wonders, and once i get my bicarbonate PM recipe together, it's on like donkey kong!

I just chose not to get into the semantics this round lol. i find that on ROI not only does it get you nowhere with people, but people get their feelings hurt very easily for some reason, and they take things personally when we're all just trying to help. Not saying this was our case MonsterDrank, i'm just generalizing from my short time on here.
 
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ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Well I can't back up what you're saying but I can say.. after the dissipation rate of myclobutanil has completed.. there is nothing left that would be combustable to light on fire or breathe in. it is dissipated.. gone. I'm not going to spend a long time again finding the rate of dissipation from the web but it does dissipate in less than 30 days.

it's used in the industry quite a bit actually.. some are for it, some against.. but petty arguing on a forum over it accomplishes nothing. the facts, and studies, and labels, and resources re: the use of Eagle20EW are all over the net. I think it makes more sense to let the grower decide for himself by reading those which are factual evidence from clinical studies rather than some guy online saying.. POISON!! cuz thats what always happens when you mention using Eagle20ew.. you'll get a few people who support it.. a few who won't go near it. I however, trust modern day science and the many studies and folks who say the dissipation would have completed before I harvested my product.
and you should see who exactly is presenting these studies, because $$$$ dominates in these types of businesses and they can put out a study on whatever they want to show their product is "safe". Big Ag companies like DOW buy their way into legitimacy, when anyone with any common sense at all would tell them to go fuck themselves. they do it with these "studies" that only they can afford and go and shmooze with the lawmakers and flex their wallets.
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
Well to each his own.. I honestly didn't realize this was in an organics section when I posted that info to be honest or i probably wouldn't have posted it.. so touche. I think I found the post by looking for "New Threads" and the DR Who thing caught my eye.

I was just trying to help because that is what I would do..will do.. if I ever get PM again. Whip out some Eagle 20EW.. I'm not making it a several week long battle. Spray it away.

The only reason I even responded at all.. was I saw a post mentioning one of the most mold and mildew resistant strains that I know of being talked about as having PM.

and obviously in an Organics section no one here will agree with me.. so I am quietly tip toeing out the back door with my bottles of chems. moving on.. nothing to see here folks.. lol :p

Sorry for gatecrashing the Organics section.. I will try harder next time not to stumble into the wrong lands.

and re: that newer study posted above.. my experience with PM was years ago.. not a few months ago when that article was written or when CO legalized marijuana. I was going by dissipation rates on crops documented in studies used at the time. I have had no reason to research PM or PM cures as of late. I will however see what they are saying now. But back when I was applying it.. they were claiming total product dissipation of myclobutanil within 30 days of a foliar application. I did do my research.. but like I said.. this was a few years ago.

Either way.. I am leaving. It was a pleasure talking with you all. :cool:
 
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bigskymtnguy

Well-Known Member
Are you sure that it's PM? Only saying this because Dr Who has good mold/mildew resistance. In fact right on the TGA website it says.."This strain is super powdery mildew resistant"

I've battled PM before and it's no fun. Eagle20-EW all the way. lol
If you believe ANYTHING you read on the TGA website I have a bridge I'd like to sell...I've found some keepers among the TGA seeds I've popped and will continue to experiment with the strains, but the propaganda on the characteristics of the strains is sheer bullcrap.
 

vostok

Well-Known Member


What is your favorite Foliar spray?
Foilar is but a delivery method...one way to get the product to the plant, its no biggy ...no rocket science, understanding exactly what you are going helps, Aloe Vera offers a great surfactant, also traces of about everything thats good, but is very weak on its own, the best way to use vera is add a pinch to your germing water, and your norn
mal plants drinking water on hot days...to get that water to stick to them roots, and shells in the germ. its very difficult to over nute in foilar, not impossible just difficult, I'm big on allowing my plants to decide what they want, foilar allows that to happen ...to my blog on my shit

https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/foilar-tools-and-application.32101/
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
If you believe ANYTHING you read on the TGA website I have a bridge I'd like to sell...I've found some keepers among the TGA seeds I've popped and will continue to experiment with the strains, but the propaganda on the characteristics of the strains is sheer bullcrap.
I've run nearly their entire catalog. i've found in my personal experience their strain descriptions to be more accurate than most breeders. So I'll have to disagree with you on that one. Sure not every pheno is going to be a winner or representation of the keeper you seek as with most F1 polys but for the most part their descriptions are pretty dead on. They do test their work pretty thoroughly before making something available for sale. The archives on Breedbay show a lot of that older testing from the strains leading up to 2011 or so when TGA left Breedbay.. since then documented testing has taken place and been shown on Subcools Weednerd Youtube channel as well as Instagram, posts made by official online testers in the past like Ocanabis or TRay or Hovering or even myself who tested A13BX.. just a few names of many of the canna online community.. as well as the folks in the Pacific Northwest who run established medical legal grows and receive test packs regularly.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
If you believe ANYTHING you read on the TGA website I have a bridge I'd like to sell...I've found some keepers among the TGA seeds I've popped and will continue to experiment with the strains, but the propaganda on the characteristics of the strains is sheer bullcrap.
what one needs to remember is the word RESISTANT does not mean PROOF. just like buying a good pair of boots... if you buy ones that are "water resistant", then you will end up with wet feet. buy boots that are "waterproof", and you stay dry!
 

Vnsmkr

Well-Known Member
If you believe ANYTHING you read on the TGA website I have a bridge I'd like to sell...I've found some keepers among the TGA seeds I've popped and will continue to experiment with the strains, but the propaganda on the characteristics of the strains is sheer bullcrap.
Take a browse through all the seedbanks and breeders sites, they all do the same..... I like TGA and do think they do a pretty good job of bringing keepers to market, but I never believe everything I read, EVER...
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
Mines handmade BTW.

3gallons total.
Up to the following amounts:
1/4 cup fermented fruit extract
1/4 cup calcium phosphate (aq in vinegar) from bones
1/4 cup fermented fish aminos
1/4 cup fragrant plant extract (marigold, horehound, garlic, peppers, neem, onion, looking for antioxidants as well)
1/4 cup EM e
1 cup molasses

Air with a pump and weighted stones or vortex brewer.

That's a veg spray and may be used on flowering plants. You can tune npk values by adjusting the fruits you extract. For instance, high potassium fruit would make a nice extractand complement the phosphates for bud forming. And maybe no fish around that time but that's obvious
Results? Pictures? That's right up my alley. Producing Everything yourself.

Geez Louise this thread has a Lot of information since I last checked I need to do some reading!
 
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