Dawg House Productions Presents The 5000k Plus 730 Nm Grow

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
My prediction is that the far reds will reverse the shortening effects of the 5000k. Whether it will speed up ripening or cause more flowering idk, but I know for sure it will cause the standard FR effects; longer internodes and more stem weight with the same weight of everything else, long petioles and leaves angled sharply upward. I have found that 5 min of normal red at lights out reduced stretch and didn't seem to impede ripening any. I was using two 13w red CFLs with a 220w 4000k high bay, 5 min before white light on, then staying on with the whites and remaining on for 5 min after the whites go off. Now I have upped it to 4 CFLs and 15 min before and after. So far so good. I know people think red light causes stretching but that's only if you use red and nothing else. 5-15 min end of day actually reduces stretch, because it reverses the effect of the far red that is already in the COB spectrum, though much less than HPS. When I used the 4000k COBs alone, they had the normal FR stretch syndrome and 5 min EOD FR just made it even stretchier. I gave that up quickly. BTW, with the reds I have them on a 12/12 cycle and the whites on a 11.5/12.5 cycle in the middle of the red cycle, so the total day length is still 12 hours.

Also I'm not even bothering with the lizard lights anymore because I didn't find they helped noticeably and may even have reduced potency by destroying some of the THC. Don't know if that's what happened but I'm pretty sure I would do better to just keep going with the enhanced red spectrum. I haven't read any complaints about LED weed being less potent than imports from high UV regions. It's also a huge pain because the UV lights only last about 6 months-a year and they have to be positioned very close. Just doesn't seem worth it to me. If I noticed a big increase in potency then maybe, but I haven't.
Use the agromax pure uv bulbs.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Use the agromax pure uv bulbs.
Yeah but then it's kind of dangerous to human tissue. The price is also too high for UV lights, which might make sense if they lasted for years but they don't. At this point I'm just thinking it's not worth the trouble and expense.

About the far red LEDs, maybe they would increase growth if running at the same time as the whites and then if you used EOD red it might prevent the stretching. But this will be a good test thread to see what effect the FR LEDs will have. Maybe my prediction is wrong and maybe it will speed up ripening. I didn't like the effect when I used incandescent blacklight as the FR source but maybe LEDs will work better.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
My prediction is that the far reds will reverse the shortening effects of the 5000k. Whether it will speed up ripening or cause more flowering idk, but I know for sure it will cause the standard FR effects; longer internodes and more stem weight with the same weight of everything else, long petioles and leaves angled sharply upward. I have found that 5 min of normal red at lights out reduced stretch and didn't seem to impede ripening any. I was using two 13w red CFLs with a 220w 4000k high bay, 5 min before white light on, then staying on with the whites and remaining on for 5 min after the whites go off. Now I have upped it to 4 CFLs and 15 min before and after. So far so good. I know people think red light causes stretching but that's only if you use red and nothing else. 5-15 min end of day actually reduces stretch, because it reverses the effect of the far red that is already in the COB spectrum, though much less than HPS. When I used the 4000k COBs alone, they had the normal FR stretch syndrome and 5 min EOD FR just made it even stretchier. I gave that up quickly. BTW, with the reds I have them on a 12/12 cycle and the whites on a 11.5/12.5 cycle in the middle of the red cycle, so the total day length is still 12 hours.

Also I'm not even bothering with the lizard lights anymore because I didn't find they helped noticeably and may even have reduced potency by destroying some of the THC. Don't know if that's what happened but I'm pretty sure I would do better to just keep going with the enhanced red spectrum. I haven't read any complaints about LED weed being less potent than imports from high UV regions. It's also a huge pain because the UV lights only last about 6 months-a year and they have to be positioned very close. Just doesn't seem worth it to me. If I noticed a big increase in potency then maybe, but I haven't.
Now This Is What Willis Is Talking About. A grower Sharing his Experiment And Results.Brother I Agree About Certians Reds Don't Cause Stretch. My Research Involves The 630 And 660 NM. You See These 2 Wavelengths Are Responsible For Waking Up Your Sexy Lady And Really Only Need A little In The Early Am As The Sun Hits High Noon The Spectrum Leans Over To The Blue. My Research With The 730 Nm Is That This Is The Wavelength That Puts Our Ladies To Sleep And I'm Guessing That The Moon Puts Off This Wavelegnth And That What Puts Our Ladies To Sleep. I'm Also Mulling Over Putting Some 660's On And Run Them For A Hour At Lights On. Oh Well Not This Grow Maybe Next

I Hear Ya I Experimented With Lizzard Light's A Few Years Ago IMHO Their More Of A Pain In The Azz :hump:
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Any reason you don't use rockwool? I feel sometimes it keeps seedlings TOO wet and the roots get content and just don't grow.
I Only Run Rockwool In My DIY BubblePonics Unit. I Start My WaterFarms Up 48 Hours Before I Drop My Seedling So My nutrients Are Properly Mixed Plus It Wets My Medium So When I Do Add My Seedling Everything is Wet And My Taproot Beeline's To the Bottom. I Should Have Some Root Porn I A Couple Of Days :weed:
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
What is the angle on those lenses?
If you were using a cob as a shop light with that lens does it cut some of the ridiculous cob glare?
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
A 660nm pulse after lights out will theoretically decrease effective night length by starting %Pfr at it's max (~85%). This seems counter-intuitive to me.

Similarly, a 660nm pulse to wake the plants up is theoretically pointless because as soon as the 660nm lamp turns off, the main lights will cause %Pfr to converge back down again to what your main lights normally bring %Pfr to.

If you leave 730nm on for the entire day, you will likely get more stretch than you would have had you only used it for 15 minute pulses at lights out. The 660nm pulse at the end would make it all in vain.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Did you hook up the bender writh holders or this is still Vero
Those khatods 90's looks awesome. Did you try the 120 too ?

The coverage looks nice and even. just some over lap in center on bar. How about a little more space in center for the next bar.
View attachment 3732047
Nope I Just Got Them Yesterday. I'm Probley Going To Use Them On My CLU48-1212 Lamp. However I Did Take A Quick peek And they Don't Fit The Khatod's. The Bender Writh Holders Are About 1/6 Of An Inch Bigger Than The Lens Cut Out :weed:
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
A 660nm pulse after lights out will theoretically decrease effective night length by starting %Pfr at it's max (~85%). This seems counter-intuitive to me.
Exactly why I'm Using 730nm For 5 Minute's At Lights Out To Put Them To Sleep Faster.

Similarly, a 660nm pulse to wake the plants up is theoretically pointless because as soon as the 660nm lamp turns off, the main lights will cause %Pfr to converge back down again to what your main lights normally bring %Pfr to.
We All Know That Pfr Is Not Constant During The Day. It's Actually The Greatest Around Mid Morning When The Suns Spectrum Is The Reddest Then It starts To Drop Off Cause The Sun Is Now Entering Early Afternoon When The Suns Spectrum Is The Bluest And The Pfr Drops Off The Charts By Early Evening When The Sun Is At Its Yellowest.. By Your Theroy A Plant Is Like A Light Switch And Reacts Immediately When Lights Are Turned Off. This Is Not True Its Been Proven That A Plant Keeps Absorbing Enegry After Lights Out. It Will Take A Couple Of Grow's To Prove My Theory Or Not. Either Way We Will Have Fun And Learn Giggty Giggty Giggty :hump:
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Nice setup in for the ride.
Welcome Brother VegasWinner :hug:

The coverage looks nice and even. just some over lap in center on bar. How about a little more space in center for the next bar.
View attachment 3732047[/QUOTE
My Measurement's Arnt Exactly Centered And To Be Honest I Need To Get Off My Azz And Get The 4x4 Setup To Do Some More Controlled Testing. However I Don't Understand Why You Want Take Away Light From The Center And Put It At The Edge? What Impressed Me The Most Was That Their Was An Overall Loss Of 27 MicroMoles Over The Entire Canopy With Only 1 Light Bar In The Center. My Tent is 35x59x82. I Threw out The 122 Reading Reason Is I Think My Big Head Blocked Some Light Lol. Now with That Said I Really Having A Hard Time With The Left Twix Side Arguing With The Right Twix Side About Adding Another Light Bar. I Originally Planned This Grow For 2 Light Bars Running 150-175 Watts Each. After Adding The Khatod Lens I'm Thinking Of Running 1 Light Bar At 320 Watts And Call It Good :hump:
 
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robincnn

Well-Known Member
My Measurement's Arnt Exactly Centered And To Be Honest I Need To Get Off My Azz And Get The 4x4 Setup To Do Some More Controlled Testing. However I Don't Understand Why You Want Take Away Light From The Center And Put It At The Edge? What Impressed Me The Most Was That Their Was An Overall Loss Of 27 MicroMoles Over The Entire Canopy With Only 1 Light Bar In The Center. My Tent is 35x59x82. I Threw out The 122 Reading Reason Is I Think My Big Head Blocked Some Light Lol. Now with That Said I Really Having A Hard Time With The Left Twix Side Arguing With The Right Twix Side About Adding Another Light Bar. I Originally Planned This Grow For 2 Light Bars Running 150-175 Watts Each. After Adding The Khatod Lens I'm Thinking Of Running 1 Light Bar At 320 Watts And Call It Good
I saw all similar numbers but looks like you got 272 in the middle. So i thought you have a hot spot in middle.
 
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