ldnsharkkid
Well-Known Member
Hey al, did you see my question about handwatering freshly transferred plants into the flood table?? Sorry to bother you its just im in the process right now lol........only if you dont mind 
Al B. FAQt
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
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bleezyg420
Well-Known Member
I hand water vegging clones in a flood table, make sure you have your drainage connected and youll be fine. DHey al, did you see my question about handwatering freshly transferred plants into the flood table?? Sorry to bother you its just im in the process right now lol........only if you dont mind
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I don't know what a vortex is- is that a brand name?
Air cooled hoods don't flow air as well as a cooltube; their metal bodies can heat up from radiant IR as well, allowing some lamp heat to convect into the room's airmass, defeating the purpose. If your hood remains cool enough to lay your hand on & leave it, it should be working fairly well, though.
Cooltubes with a sufficiently sized blower will always remain cool enough to lay your hand on even with a fully warmed 1000.
I have two 1000HPS in series cooltubes, being driven by a 150mm axial blower rated about 200CFM.
Each 1000 causes the air passing it to rise by 6C. So, if the cooltube intake air is 18C, the air leaving the first tube is 24C and that leaving the 2nd is 30C. The surface temp of the aluminium range-hood flexiduct leading away from the 2nd cooltube gets a little warmer than I'd like (about 28C, but the air in the duct is about 30C). If the surface of the duct is appreciably warmer than the grow room airmass (which is always 25C +/- 1C), heat will convect out of the duct and into the growroom airmass. I am considering insulating that section leading out of the room from the 2nd tube with some sort of foil-backed fibreglas insulation sheeting to make the system more efficient. If heat leaks out through the ducting wall, it's not doing its job very well.
Hoods usually do not employ an efficient reflector shape.
A double parabola is ideal. The usual coffin shaped 'Euro hood' as they are commonly called tend to reflect some light straight back at the lamp tube. All light hitting a batwing ref is headed for the plants.
With my handy-dandy tin snips, I've cut the internal reflectors out of my cooltubes and fitted the cooltubes to Adjust-A-Wing batwing refs.
huh. I saw that and I (thought I) responded to it. The reply has gone missing..Hey al, did you see my question about handwatering freshly transferred plants into the flood table?? Sorry to bother you its just im in the process right now lol........only if you dont mind
Once more with feeling...
A spray bottle set to shoot a straight stream would do pretty well. Maybe an old dish soap or water bottle would do. Anything which will allow you to precisely squirt a bit of water to just dampen the pellets will do.Hi Al, sorry to bother you again just a quick question, i am about to put my rockwool cubes in clay pebbles 1/2" above flood level as you said but how do i handwater for a coupla days without soaking the rockwool cubes? Any advice is appreciated, thanks
I haven't posted any. Will if I can.Were Are The Pic.'s AL B.????~~Later~~~Hatch~~~
bleezyg420
Well-Known Member
Id rep that, but I cant. Your a fucking genius man. I wish I didnt already purchase these 600's, but I got hell of a deal at $80 per light. I can rest my hand on the glass but then again its only a 600. How much do those adjust bat wings cost? I probably could sell these hoods, keep the fixtures and get some tubes. Whats the average cost on a cool tube. I could see how its way more efficient, its like a small 18' in Bong Load vers a 6 Footer. Same with the reflection of those batwings vs my sun system hood.
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Calling Al B Fuct
I repeat calling Al B Fuct
I desperately need your help on a silly problem
Heres the problem: After germinating my Bluberry seeds I place them in presoaked rockwool (PH at 5.
and immediately switch on the lights (timer on 12/6) I was watering when the RW seemed dry (approx 3 times a day). With the temp at 27C & humidity at 80 - 90% I check every day to see the changes BUT AFTER A WEEK I GOT IMPATIENT AND TOOK A CLOSER LOOK & THE SEED HAD NOT GROWN AT ALL IT WAS IN THE SAME POSITION WHEN I PLANTED IT (THE TAPROOT WAS THE SAME).
I know its had to tell what Im doing wrong without any pics & I understand that this is a ridiculous problem but I thought Id ask for advise as my next seed has germinated and Im currently presoaking my RW & Ive been in this situation twice already Im going to feel heart broken if I have to bin the seeds for the 3rd time. I need for this grow to be successful because Im running out of seeds please help, Any idea what Im doing wrong?
I repeat calling Al B Fuct
I desperately need your help on a silly problem
Heres the problem: After germinating my Bluberry seeds I place them in presoaked rockwool (PH at 5.
and immediately switch on the lights (timer on 12/6) I was watering when the RW seemed dry (approx 3 times a day). With the temp at 27C & humidity at 80 - 90% I check every day to see the changes BUT AFTER A WEEK I GOT IMPATIENT AND TOOK A CLOSER LOOK & THE SEED HAD NOT GROWN AT ALL IT WAS IN THE SAME POSITION WHEN I PLANTED IT (THE TAPROOT WAS THE SAME).I know its had to tell what Im doing wrong without any pics & I understand that this is a ridiculous problem but I thought Id ask for advise as my next seed has germinated and Im currently presoaking my RW & Ive been in this situation twice already Im going to feel heart broken if I have to bin the seeds for the 3rd time. I need for this grow to be successful because Im running out of seeds please help, Any idea what Im doing wrong?
ldnsharkkid
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that al i will do that for a few days to establish some decent root growth and then start the flooding....
It was proper weird the photo you posted a coupla posts ago is exactly the same as the photo i was reading in ur other closed thread "harvest every 2 weeks" on page 177, been taking me a week 2 read it, when i just refreshed both the pages and saw the same pics had to double check i hadnt been readin the same thread twice lol, im pretty stoned
It was proper weird the photo you posted a coupla posts ago is exactly the same as the photo i was reading in ur other closed thread "harvest every 2 weeks" on page 177, been taking me a week 2 read it, when i just refreshed both the pages and saw the same pics had to double check i hadnt been readin the same thread twice lol, im pretty stoned
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Does sound like a very good price. If the hoods can keep their cooling air flow separate from the grow rom airmass (with inlet and exhaust ducting) and remain cool to the touch, they should work pretty well.
Far too much! Prices vary, but I've seen them from $160-200/ea.
Around $60-70.
How wet are you leaving the cubes after you are waternig them? They must not be left saturated. Without a pic, I can't really make any better guesses.
I must have! Sorry.
Yes, I do think they're faulty. You might, however, just for curiosity's sake, try them with a 100W light globe and see if they behave the same as with a 25-40W lamp.
OK, I hope that sorts out the EC scale question.
My pH is 8.5 at present. When I mix for 1400 with Canna Flores, I get a pH of about 6.3. Takes about 10-12ml of the pHDown sauce I have to shift that 125L @ 6.3 to 5.8.
bleezyg420
Well-Known Member
+ rep, Your the man. My hoods dont have their own inlet. They have vents on top of the hood, so they draw warm air out. Im using hydro huts Xl(Flower), L(veg) I have temps 75-77 and I can touch the glass lens, its warm but Im able to hold my hand there. One day I want some of those bat wings and cool tube setup's with some 1000's. Your grow room is candy to my eyes. I love clean tidy shit and you have that dialed in. I Cant wait till harvest so I can dedicate my roommates room as my grow room and kick him out. Good luck thanks again for the great help.
holmes
Well-Known Member
Hello Al
how hot would it get in a closed room ( no in or out vents) using
two 1000w with adjust a wing reflectors, using the super spreaders.
Could supplemting CO2 justify the temperature?, ive read that temps up to 85*F will work well high concentrations of co2
O yeah, and lets say that the area of this room is approximatly 200 sq ft
how hot would it get in a closed room ( no in or out vents) using
two 1000w with adjust a wing reflectors, using the super spreaders.
Could supplemting CO2 justify the temperature?, ive read that temps up to 85*F will work well high concentrations of co2
O yeah, and lets say that the area of this room is approximatly 200 sq ft
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Your temps are moderating rather well, but when air cooled lighting sources its cooling air from inside the room airmass, room airmass temp stability can suffer.
With cooltubes, we can have a fully separate ventilation system for the room airmass and the lighting, so a thermostat can control the intake/exhaust blowers, while the lighting has a constant flow of air via its own blower.
If your air cooled lighting has no inlet duct, the fan must be on the outlet, placing the fan motor in the warm air stream. It's better for the fan motor's longer term reliability to push air into the lighting so the fan's motor is running in a cool air stream.
Works pretty well for me.
thanks for that; I aim to keep my shit tidy.
I absolutely SNORTED when I read that.
You ratbag.
no worries.
it would be well in excess of 40-45C inside of 1 hour. Forget it. You'll need either aircon or ventilation. You will not have a successful grow with 2kW in an unventilated space.
iloveit
Well-Known Member
As requested pics of the RW (seed is germinated and planted in RW which is visible in pic) which Im now watering twice a day (I water from the top of the RW with a measuring syringe, when water is shown in excess at the bottom of the RW I stop, when I cant feel moisture on the top of the RW I water. What you think? 
Also is it permissable to have the RW holes that wide and open for the seed to be in direct light like that shown in the pic (the seeds are 1/2 inch below the surface).
If only I can make it through this Ill be over the moon. Please Al help!
Also is it permissable to have the RW holes that wide and open for the seed to be in direct light like that shown in the pic (the seeds are 1/2 inch below the surface).
If only I can make it through this Ill be over the moon. Please Al help!
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Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Cooltubes must be able to source cooling air from outside the grow room airmass and dump it outside it as well.
If you can establish the airflow necessary for cooltubes, you will also be able to ventilate the room.
So, you germed your seed, got a roughly 1/4" long taproot out of the seed and planted it in the holes in the RW, right?
WAY too wet. No wonder nothing's happening. The cube must only be damp, never wet or saturated. No way a seedling will take enough water out of the cube to justify watering 2x/day. For this situation, cubes on a heat mat (you DO have a heat mat, right?) will only need about 5-10ml of water/day, on the very high and outside... They may not need water every day.which Im now watering twice a day (I water from the top of the RW with a measuring syringe, when water is shown in excess at the bottom of the RW I stop, when I cant feel moisture on the top of the RW I water. What you think?
yep, fine.
However, you're not growing an aquatic plant and don't need to give anywhere near as much water as you are. You should not be able to shake any excess water out of the cube- it must be damp, not wet or saturated.
holmes
Well-Known Member
yes of course
i am trying to figure out if it is at all possible to avoid it.
I am sure your familiar with the closed room system of growing, some co2 and humidity and temp control, and your good.
Basically, what i am trying to accomplish is this, with temperature range of 65-85*F, depending on the season ( not in a given week or month, please dont chew my head off)
winter months no aircon needed, if the tubes are done very well as you have done, i think temps should be acceptable. There is no reason why the duct work would interfere with the closed environment.
Now summer months there might be no way around it but to use aircon
Final request (for now), have you or better yet would you, post something on how you put the batwing/cool tube fixture together. Do you find that the spreader component is lacking now that you dont have it, or could you put it back if you could.
I know i ask a lot of questions, but it is much appreciated. Ive been wanting to give you rep points, but i dont know how.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You will either need an aircon unit or you will need to ventilate the space, it's that simple- no way around having one or the other.
I don't know whether you don't believe me or you're trying to fool yourself, but if you set up an unventilated/un-airconditioned op with 2kW of light, you won't grow plants in it very well nor for very long. It will hit 40-45C pretty easily. You will sink a lot of dough into an op that won't work.
Now, if you want to go ahead and set the thing up as you suggest, without ventilation or aircon, go right ahead. I don't have to jump off a cliff to prove I can't fly, but that may not be the case for everyone...
2 screws through the ref into the cooltube.
The 'spreader' was really more a 'shade' than anything else. It blocked about half the light to the plants nearest the lamp tube. I always thought it was of dubious benefit, but I was given a pair to try out, and so I did. They did nothing for temp control. I would not use them again, with or without cooltubes.
Thanks for the suggestion of rep points, but if you can't work it out, I'm not fussed, I don't play that game too much myself.
iloveit
Well-Known Member
Cooltubes must be able to source cooling air from outside the grow room airmass and dump it outside it as well.
If you can establish the airflow necessary for cooltubes, you will also be able to ventilate the room.
So, you germed your seed, got a roughly 1/4" long taproot out of the seed and planted it in the holes in the RW, right?
WAY too wet. No wonder nothing's happening. The cube must only be damp, never wet or saturated. No way a seedling will take enough water out of the cube to justify watering 2x/day. For this situation, cubes on a heat mat (you DO have a heat mat, right?) will only need about 5-10ml of water/day, on the very high and outside... They may not need water every day.
yep, fine.
However, you're not growing an aquatic plant and don't need to give anywhere near as much water as you are. You should not be able to shake any excess water out of the cube- it must be damp, not wet or saturated.
Yep I have germed and placed in RW.
Yep I have a heated propagator with a mat in it.
At first I was worried that the seed would die if it had got to dry due to the heat but from now Ill make sure the RW is only damp.
I hope sometime you can checkout my grow when Im not in the noobi stages and hear your words of wisdom.
Man Im happy to hear from you thanks so much Id take a bullet for you in the ass LOL.
As alway you da man!
Oh I almost forgot is it ok to have the lights on 24/7 for these seeds?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You should not be able to shake any water out of a cube which is just damp.
If you were using the same size and type of cubes I am, I could give you very precise watering information, but your cubes are a bit different. I'm using plastic wrapped 40mm cubes. They weigh 5g dry and 20-25g when just damp. When using these for cloning in my clonebox with 30C heatmat and thermostatic control to 30C, when supporting a rather large cutting, these cubes need about 8-10ml of water 2x/day. The plastic wrap slows down evaporation from the cube.
Your cubes appear to be smaller, perhaps 25mm and unwrapped. They ought to weigh about 15-18g when just damp. The lack of wrapping may cause them to dry out faster than my cubes, but you are trying to raise seedlings, not clones, which need a lot more water by comparison. I would use a syringe to give your cubes about 10ml of water, check to be sure that you can not shake any water out with a snap of the wrist (like flicking a yoyo). Put them on the heatmat and check them about every 6h until you get an idea of when 50% of the water weight is gone.
You should be using H2O2, 50% grade at 1ml/L in your watering solution.
well, um, thanks for that, but I sure wouldn't take a bullet in the ass for me.
'Thanks Al' is plenty, mkay?
yep, fine.
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