How to prepare your water

Joncoh101

Well-Known Member
Hey guys

So when i water my plants i use a kitchen charcoal based water filter, and then bubble it for a few hours with an air stone. What can be removed via these water filters? Is this good enough for watering my indoor plants? I see some guys do reverse osmosis but i dont know wtf that or where to begin.
 

cardgenius

Active Member
It’s going to strip out your essential micro nutrients like Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, and others so unless there is something wrong with your tap water, there’s no reason to use the filter. If you do, you’ll need to get some Cal-Mag to add to the filtered water so your plants don’t show deficiencies.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
What is the PPM of your tap water? If it's not too high then just use it straight.

If the tap PPM is over 200 then you should look into an RO filter. The RO filter will remove the calcium and magnesium, iron and whatnot so we need to use a calmag product (I like calimagic best) to replace those minerals.

Some people have luck using tap water that is 200 - 300 PPM using hard water micro that has less calcium.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
FWIW my tap water is around 180 PPM. I was using an RO filter for a long time, got so used to having it (like over 20 years). I started using it back in missouri when I did strictly hydro. Tap water can cause pH instability in hydro.

I just recently stopped using the RO filter, doing a test run now sans RO. I stopped using the calmag (saved money) and found that the plants are loving it on the new program.

So if you don't need an RO filter, don't use one. They waste a lot of water, filters cost money and need to be changed and you need to add the cal mag. So RO is great if you have crappy water but if you don't require it, don't bother.
 

CarlosG13

Member
I have used Spectrapure RO/DI systems for years and was fortunate to have my aquarium shop a quarter of a mile from their offices in Tempe. Some of the corals in their display tank came from my shop. Phoenix area tap water runs around 450ppm plus in just calcium alone, but I remember some people using the RO/DI rejection water for their plants on occasion. The carbon block will not strip minerals like calcium and magnesium. That happens in the RO/DI membrane. The carbon will remove chemical contaminants like chlorine, some particulate depending on micron size, and dissolved Organics that discolor the water or have odors. Some will indicate they remove lead also and I assume some other metals as well, but carbon will generally remove the things that would harm microbes in your growing media. Spectrapure makes the best water filtration you can buy for growing corals or Cannabis and the owner, Charles really is a sweet guy who has always been very nice to me and the people in the aquarium business that I know. I run a MegaMaxcap 5 stage with two membranes that produces about 150 gallons of zero TDS water every 24hrs.
 

Joncoh101

Well-Known Member
So i have a PH pen i borrowed from a mate of mine, but i think it clearly needs to be calibrated, as it says my tap water is 10 rofl, i dont have calibration liquid, and im keen on buying a blue labs soil ph pen but they are out of stock in pretty much every supplier here and the next shipment is coming in a few weeks. So im gona try get my hands on calibration stuff for now.

The reason i want to get the soil pen is because im sitting with a few plants that were displaying ph problem symptoms, i have not used fertilizer on them yet, but i had my tent in my garage where there were heavy temperature fluctuations as well as humidity issues. And i have read that calmag issues can be brought on by cold and or humidity. So at this point my plants are looking much better in their new location, however im not ruling things out just yet as maybe its my water too.

In terms of ppm, i would need an ec meter correct? in this way i would multiply my value by 1000 then divide by 2 to get the ppm value (thats what google told me lol)

And yes many people like i have encountered on this forum have accused me of being too critical and scientific in my approach but i am in lockdown and focussed on learning as much as possible to rule out all possible future issues
 

2Hearts

Well-Known Member
Try omitting calcium from your fertilizer and see just how tap water feeds a plant no frickin calcium and dosent cure even the mildest of deficiency.

Some kind of broscience at play there, tap water as fertilizer?





It’s going to strip out your essential micro nutrients like Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, and others so unless there is something wrong with your tap water, there’s no reason to use the filter. If you do, you’ll need to get some Cal-Mag to add to the filtered water so your plants don’t show deficiencies.
 

cardgenius

Active Member
Some kind of broscience at play there, tap water as fertilizer?
LOL what? Reading not your strong suit? Where did I say you can use tap water as a fertilizer replacement?
I was letting him know that if he uses filtered RO/DI water he’ll have to add back the nutrients which were stripped out by the filter.

Not all fertilizers have enough micro nutrients to supplement on their own, thats why you either use tap water or add Cal/Mag if using RO/DI water. I thought this was common sense stuff for the non newbie, no?
 

Snob

Well-Known Member
If I were to use tap water. the only thing i would filter it for is chlorine. Let it bubble with the air store for a day or two, and then use that water.
 

2Hearts

Well-Known Member
Your so misguided by the whole canna scene.

Try reading the difference between a calcium nitrate and the calcium carbonate in water.

You may just read somthing that isnt so punched full of broscience holes.

Chemistry isnt your strong point i see.



LOL what? Reading not your strong suit? Where did I say you can use tap water as a fertilizer replacement?
I was letting him know that if he uses filtered RO/DI water he’ll have to add back the nutrients which were stripped out by the filter.

Not all fertilizers have enough micro nutrients to supplement on their own, thats why you either use tap water or add Cal/Mag if using RO/DI water. I thought this was common sense stuff for the non newbie, no?
 

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
$15 USD is all anyone needs to spend on a ppm/ec meter. keep it clean.
$15 USD for the General Hydroponics ph up/down and measuring drops kit. will last most folks a couple years, no need to calibrate
 

CarlosG13

Member
Y
So i have a PH pen i borrowed from a mate of mine, but i think it clearly needs to be calibrated, as it says my tap water is 10 rofl, i dont have calibration liquid, and im keen on buying a blue labs soil ph pen but they are out of stock in pretty much every supplier here and the next shipment is coming in a few weeks. So im gona try get my hands on calibration stuff for now.

The reason i want to get the soil pen is because im sitting with a few plants that were displaying ph problem symptoms, i have not used fertilizer on them yet, but i had my tent in my garage where there were heavy temperature fluctuations as well as humidity issues. And i have read that calmag issues can be brought on by cold and or humidity. So at this point my plants are looking much better in their new location, however im not ruling things out just yet as maybe its my water too.

In terms of ppm, i would need an ec meter correct? in this way i would multiply my value by 1000 then divide by 2 to get the ppm value (thats what google told me lol)

And yes many people like i have encountered on this forum have accused me of being too critical and scientific in my approach but i am in lockdown and focussed on learning as much as possible to rule out all possible future issues
You may have some liquids that have a known pH you could use to calibrate depending on the range of the pH meter. Just need two known pH liquids, check both and adjust the meter as well as you can.
 

Federucci

Well-Known Member
FWIW my tap water is around 180 PPM. I was using an RO filter for a long time, got so used to having it (like over 20 years). I started using it back in missouri when I did strictly hydro. Tap water can cause pH instability in hydro.

I just recently stopped using the RO filter, doing a test run now sans RO. I stopped using the calmag (saved money) and found that the plants are loving it on the new program.

So if you don't need an RO filter, don't use one. They waste a lot of water, filters cost money and need to be changed and you need to add the cal mag. So RO is great if you have crappy water but if you don't require it, don't bother.
Renfro has been fantastic on this forum with advice. I bought the Apera PH60S the other month because of the review.

I currently have 250ppm tap water that comes out at 7.6 pH and increases to approximately 8 when left out. In a matter of a few hours, it already got to 7.6. My compost tea was garbage in it, even after using a Berkey, which is great for drinking, but it actually increases the pH. Damn near 8pH in the compost tea. It's been 15 years since I've grown things. My how times have changed. I feel like such a buffoon to just think that just because I have a good drinking water filter that it means it's also good for plants like my ghost peppers, which are severely stunted now.

I was looking at an Apec filter system without the remineralization jazz as it's on sale for $180 and there are many other uses I have for it. Do you all have any recommendations other than this system? Cost is not particularly an issue, but I would like to get the most for my money.
 

CarlosG13

Member
Remember to check your water pressure if you can to determine if you will need a booster pump.The 3 stage systems especially need adequate water pressure to work efficiently and not use extra water to produce the same amount under low pressure. The booster pump goes about $150 for the kit so consider spending the extra money on that otherwise it will take a lot longer to produce the same gallon and you will exhaust your RO/DI membrane quicker. The one problem I have repeatedly seen is the home or business water pressure causing the system to work slowly and wear out membranes. Water pressure gauges will also tell you when it’s time to change the micron particulate filter or back flush the membrane for longer life and efficiency. I like SpectraPure systems. They have two dedicated to hydroponics, check em out.
 

PhatNuggz

Well-Known Member
Clearly, most people have ZERO clue what is in their municipal water besides some minerals and chlorine. With very few exceptions, it is not good for human consumption, including bathing. Do your own research

A quality RO is < $300. Mine is a iSpring 7 series, which is under my kitchen sink and a carbon filter in my shower

hth
 

Federucci

Well-Known Member
Thanks dudes, I'll take a look at those. I narrowed it down to Apec or iSpring to put underneath a sink for soil growing. I'm leaning towards Apec because replacement filters for 6-12 months are about $22 if you buy the two pack.

How is the stability of the RO water when exposed to atmosphere? Does it generally decrease a little bit? I am still trying to wrap my head around how Berkey water can increase from 7.26 to 7.84 overnight. It blows my mind.
 

Teag

Well-Known Member
Clearly, most people have ZERO clue what is in their municipal water besides some minerals and chlorine. With very few exceptions, it is not good for human consumption, including bathing. Do your own research

A quality RO is < $300. Mine is a iSpring 7 series, which is under my kitchen sink and a carbon filter in my shower

hth
Municipal water is not safe for humans to take a bath in? Where do you live?
 

Federucci

Well-Known Member
I think the idea is that most municipal water is treated with a myriad of substances that are allowed by the government up to certain concentration, and it's conventional wisdom that it's better to consume or bath water that is devoid of these substances than with them. Regarding plants at least, there is no doubt in my mind that these substances create an unstable pH and I observed it myself when my boyfriend tested it over several hours and the pH rose by .3-.5.
 
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