all i can say is i wish you would use advanced nutrients sensi 2 part one time like i do so you can see what im talkin about. i tried out a nute called bc nutrients before and i had it up to 1500ppm with no nute burn but with the sensi 2 part you cant give the same ppm for some reason or else the plants get fried. a.n also has a product called connoisseur and everyone says its extremely strong and whatever ppm you give your plants with sensi 2 part you can only give them half the ppm with connoisseur. i dont know why this happens but i can assure you its true. this is why its important to know when to raise the nutes and i cant find an easy way to tell so far other than seeing how much lower the ppm is after top off.
what kind of nutes do you use al?
Hydroponic nutrient mixes are all more or less the same. They're solutions designed to present N, P & K to plants in certain ratios along with some micronutes. Often, pH buffers are included. A TDS meter will give you an idea of the concentration of nutrient salts in the solution by virtue of the electrical conductivity caused by the dissolved salts. If a nutrient is sold as NPK 10-20-10 and you mix it for 1000ppm, it's going to be chemically very similar to any other 10-20-10 mixed for 1000ppm.
I use Canna nutes.
Not to step on al's toe here but there is no "Real" method to running a multi ppm nute cycle based on plant growth,ive found out in my grows that running multi ppm phases causes alot of shit on the plants.
If you must run multi ppm growth phases you raise nutes by watching leaf/bud development,for instance in veg when the plant starts stacking nodes fast you can up the N value of your mix .
Same goes for bud,once pistil & calyx formation kicks into high gear is when you would increase the P & K ratios of your mix,unfortunately most times the increases just fuck the overall NPK ratios up which causes an unbalanced nute mix.
This is whats happening with the Advanced Nutrient crap,i only used their sauce once & it fucked me over too,when you start off with a bad NPK ratio to start with alot of corrective actions are needed to set things right.
Use a standard feeding regime along with a better balanced nutrient & things will go alot better,even 1,000 is screaming hot unless you have had the strain going a long time & know all the little tells of the plants.
Toes not stepped, panster.
I've used Canna for the last 10 yrs because of consistency of performance.
Al,
Just to clarify, when you talk about 1000ppm you are using are using a .7 conversion. A.K.A. 1.5 EC.
Thanks
I read 1000ppm directly off the meter, a Bluelab (fmrly NZ Hydroponics) Truncheon. Their TDS meter is the gold standard. Avoid the pH Truncheon, tho. Junk.
The fuct-iest thing about the cannabis growing community is that they pay top dollar for diluted name brand solutions or even for their powders.
I got a 50 pound bag of calcium nitrate for about 30 dollars last year. (for example) That's thousands of gallons of GH flora micro which is mostly just calcium nitrate. A one pound bag of potassium nitrate is equivalent to a LOT of GH flora gro (which is mostly potassium nitrate). You learn quickly what happens when you add more or less iron, etc. Basically all the deficiency threads I see on pot forums end with "just go get calmag" and when it works, they confirm "yes, it must have been a magnesium deficiency after all". And yes, they probably wouldn't have deficiency if they followed the GH recipe instead of lucas
.
Ca & Mg 'deficiencies' are readily caused by pH errors. CalMag etc are usually unnecessary if using muni tapwater. There's usually plenty of both in muni tapwater due to water passing through reservoirs, rivers, etc. CalMag might be needed if you're using rainwater or have an RO system (which is unnecessary unless you're using high-salinity bore/well water).
Hey Al is there any other threads or forum your at? And do you browse around the new post and talk shit sometimes?
Talk shit? Really?
al, I'm having trouble with my cool tube/ adjust a wing set up. I'm not sure how much space to leave between the glass and the aaw.
The cooltube can be fitted in direct contact with the central fold in the AAW.
I've also got some hot spots, but not directly under the bulb, only on the sides.
That's a bit of a surprise. The strongest part of the pattern from the lamp is in the middle of the quartz tube.
Which holes do you use in the wing to attach the wire, there are multiple options, and I'm not sure which is best as I don't have a light meter.
I drilled holes in the AAW to match the location of the pem nuts in the cooltube, which are normally used for suspension eyebolts.
I also can't make both the cool tube and aaw level, so should I shoot to make the aaw or the tube level? Thanks for Stayin around!
Yes, the tube can often sag a bit in the socket, particularly a problem with 1000HPS bottles because of their weight. You may want to organise a support for the far end of the tube; a chunk of glass or ceramic might work. Don't use any metal up against the tube envelope.
something just popped in my head to ask you al. i know you recommend 6.8 ml of 29% h202 per gal for maintenance but is that enough to kill fungas gnat larvae in the medium? if not how much would you use per gallon to kill the actual larvae if you have a problem?
H2O2 is not an insecticide and won't kill gnat larvae.
Bayer's Alsystin will get the little bastards. H2O2 will only control fungus, which the gnats both spread & eat.
