Hans Panel 56w triband led(65w total)>VS<Indagro 100 full spec induction(105w)+FIGHT!

[THE KONASSURE]

Beautiful! Ur plant under the EFDL looks really nice, I'm sure it will plump up some more. And of course your girls under Hans is looking good. Tell us what u really think thus far on the EFDL technology? Better to buy one of those or better to buy 50 cfls? Lol random number

Well going by my 200w 3000k induction vs 105w cfl`s once the induction is in a hood you`d need around 4 of the cfl`s to match the light, now the 105w cfl`s are only £10 each vs the induction lamp that runs £100 to £200 but your going to save 200w and the induction light is just nicer covers better and penetrates a fair bit better then cfl`s do, its better then any florescent light I`ve seen..........

 

[chazbolin]

Beautiful! Ur plant under the EFDL looks really nice, I'm sure it will plump up some more. And of course your girls under Hans is looking good. Tell us what u really think thus far on the EFDL technology? Better to buy one of those or better to buy 50 cfls? Lol random number

50 cfls is to low. it would take a minimum of 51 cfls and mixing 1/3 2700 kelvin,1/3 4000 Kelvin, 1/3 5000 kelvin and 1/3 8000 kelvin. That should do it. Now that's a journal I'd sub to!

 

[HiloReign]

50 cfls is to low. it would take a minimum of 51 cfls and mixing 1/3 2700 kelvin,1/3 4000 Kelvin, 1/3 5000 kelvin and 1/3 8000 kelvin. That should do it. Now that's a journal I'd sub to!

L m a o

 

[Beefbisquit]

God damn! 4/3rds! That's impressive! I too would sub to that journal!

 

[chazbolin]

I believe the inner city public schools refer to this as a rounding error and still pass the student

 

[foreverflyhi]

Lol 50 cfls! I was jk. But after what konnasur and chazbolin said.,That's pretty impressive.

 

[THE KONASSURE]

Hmmm

I had 51 cfls till I had a bad month of breaking them

When a 100w+ cfl gets shattered there`s so much crap to clean up

Thanks to the post man I also know how much crap comes out of a broken 200w induction light so much dust and glass.

Never break one near flowering plants you`ll never get the dust off of them and you`ll face a choice smoke something that will make you sick or chuck the whole harvest in the bin.

Saying that a 125w es40 cfl makes a pretty big mess too............ it was a shame to have to chuck my 1st real "grow" light into the bin but oh well it got broken

Warning when you put up a shelf it means that your yoyo`s can now go low enough that the light can hit something lol

 

[chazbolin]

Kona tell me you didn't break that 200 induction? If it got broke anywhere over the plants you probably got some mercury in the soil that will NOT be something you want to put inside you. Mercury needs to be treated like a hazardous material and dropped off at a recycling facility. http://www.wikihow.com/Dispose-of-Mercury

The phosphors in these generic triphosphor lamps should be rare earth organic based oxides, nitrides or oxynitrides which will make for an unpleasant smoke but not be harmful in low volume consumption. The problem is unless you know the phosphor blend some Chinese lamp manufacturers still will use toxic elements in their phosphors such as cadmium thallium and beryllium. IMO best to scrap this garden if a fluoro lamp breaks over the grow or risk getting very sick.

 

[THE KONASSURE]

No Chaz my boy

See my induction light in my grow was brought from ebay as a weather proof 200w induction lamp 5000k and it was broken by the postman and replaced so I have a full 200w 5000k induction lamp in weather proof casing that I`m not using now

The broken lamp I took apart and cleaned then fitted a 300w cfl into the casing for use outside for a future project

The lamp in my grow is all the parts stripped out of the broken lamp and a replacement 3000k tube I got from brightmax (the makers of the light) from china for $100

So no it was not broken anywhere near my plants and I have a hydro/aero grow at the moment so getting the root zone clean would be easy

I have no plans to break my induction touch wood, weed and anything else that holds mystical powers lol

I have broken a ton of cfl`s in the past mainly in-between grows it`s one big down side to cfl`s how close they have to be to work it means moving them around a lot and that means a risk of breaking them.

Nah as you see in the pics my induction is in a hood on 2 yoyo`s it would be a bit tricky to break it but jeeze I was really careful building the light up and stuff not a time I wanted to slip with the screwdriver seeing the mess the postman made of the original tube.

 

[[dark]]

I'm excited to see the end product of cheese dreams. Keep up the good work PSU!

 

[PSUAGRO.]

Beautiful! Ur plant under the EFDL looks really nice, I'm sure it will plump up some more. And of course your girls under Hans is looking good. Tell us what u really think thus far on the EFDL technology? Better to buy one of those or better to buy 50 cfls? Lol random number

EFDL has it's pros and cons like all techs, In my case(no intake/exhaust) the P's outweigh the C's.......The anubis bitches aren't going to get much bigger and the cheese will take forever

looking sweet dude just spent an hour start to finish I cant wait to see what your gpw is going to be like with the two set ups Stirling job mate

The GPW won't be impressive on either side ........are you really done with led's after your current grow?? or just sick of testing new panels?

Everything looks great. The nute def finally under control lol.

If you are going to.get fabric pots next round. I found some good ones on amazon for cheap. I got a 5 pack of 7 gal. 21.34 after shipping. The 10 pack of 2 gal is 12 something plus shipping. They are called viagrowtm.

The pontoons look very promising. The problem is Darryl is estimatimg selling them at 745 For 45 actual.watts.

Ha........We all knew that she would lose those fan leaves to the def......eventually I should be able to figure out this Uprising fert line, maybe by next round

I have a good amount of three gallon smarties already, but thanks for the tip............any idea on pricing for the par 100/200 putang's??....lol

Well going by my 200w 3000k induction vs 105w cfl`s once the induction is in a hood you`d need around 4 of the cfl`s to match the light, now the 105w cfl`s are only £10 each vs the induction lamp that runs £100 to £200 but your going to save 200w and the induction light is just nicer covers better and penetrates a fair bit better then cfl`s do, its better then any florescent light I`ve seen..........

I'd say HOT5 panels are better than those large cfl's also.....The induction seems more intense than my 200w T5 panel BUT it's a single light source compared to a spread out one w the t5's..........so who knows

I believe the inner city public schools refer to this as a rounding error and still pass the student

I'm a product of those inner city public schools....................hence my "creative" sentence structure and impeccable spelling/grammar


ILP's cheesedream @ 76 days since germination under the Hans led panel(65watts):

...Removed the last of the severely affected leaves(RH still peaking above 70%) due to my worry of PM.....topdressed her with the rest of my soil mix to get through till harvest, nothing but water till the End.......could be awhile.

PS's anubis girls @ 71 days since germ under the inda-gro PAR 100(105watts):

.....Gave the lanky bitch the cal/mag she needs with the RO foundation, but probably too late again.......she's hitting the home stretch anyways. Disappointed in my local nursery's organic soil mix===early def's/high peatmoss causing overwatering, even with my light amendments issues arose. Granted I fucked up by underfeeding in a light mix; they definitely cheapened out by using crappy fillers in a usually good product. I got to think about what i'm using next, RO soil is $38 for a twenty pound bag shipped to my door....that sucks.

....46th day of 13/11 ............be safe and happy growing RIU

 

[slinger36s]

Great looking test man, I am very interested in induction lighting and I'm looking forward to seeing what you produce! Depending how my current grow goes with the LED I'm possibly switching out the 2x150 watt hps for induction, anyways I really enjoy theses VS journals and this one is killer!
-slinger

 

[THE KONASSURE]

Looking good PSU man

Hmm them induction girls are looking better every time I see them who knows give them an extra week and they might start looking better then the led girls

Well induction lights are very old tech we just never used them I`m sure there`s improvements to be made, I was trying to get someone in china to make the tube twice as fat and start making a 1000w induction lamp but they all said I was mad

See with induction efficentcy go`s up as the size and draw of the unit go`s up unlike leds a 400w induction is around 3% or more efficent then a 100w induction but it keeps rising to a peak I have no idea where that peak is but I was willing to bet a 1000w induction lamp would grow some amazing plants shame everyone said no

Some thing about needing huge investment to make a tube that big or something anyway I hear 500w and 600w units are on the way and some people are trying to get a 800w made up some maybe in a year or so they`ll start making a prototype 1000w induction.

 

[chazbolin]

See with induction efficentcy go`s up as the size and draw of the unit go`s up unlike leds a 400w induction is around 3% or more efficent then a 100w induction but it keeps rising to a peak I have no idea where that peak is but I was willing to bet a 1000w induction lamp would grow some amazing plants shame everyone said no

Regarding efficiencies going up as the EFDL (external not internal coil) lamps get larger this is only slightly true and even then to a tipping point.

Induction lamps are nothing more than the secondary coil of a transformer. The primary being the electromagnetic coils that surround the lamp and excite the gasses inside to photoluminesce the phosphors suspended against the inner glass wall. In impedance matching the driver/ballast the diameter and length of the glass tube is what must match the output potential of the driver to the primary coil. If this is not done with the proper number of windings the lamp will not have enough electromagnetic energy to start. Induction lamps above 400 watts require exponentially larger drivers that lose efficiency dramatically when compared to the photon flux of the 400 watt lamps. That is why no one is taking you seriously over there. They know this and lamps above 400 watts have proven to be shall we say problematic. It's a solution that has found the problem.

The diameter of a borosilicate glass tube that draws 400 watts might be somewhere in the 58mm dia x 884mm L size range. By simply having a 60mm x 884mm constructed and running it on a driver that is impedance matched you will light off the lamp, eventually, but the efficiencies in terms of how long it takes for the mercury to vaporize and the phosphors to fully luminesce in a chamber that large would result in lower overall lumen output while the driver struggles to maintain constant current to the primary coil just to try and get to a 500 watt rating. My point is wattage has nothing to do with lumen or in plant lighting photon flux density relative to the PAR regions. What does matter is the lamp of choice delivering the proper spectrum's and intensities as energy efficiently as possible to promote optimum plant development to achieve the Emerson Effect.

Apologies to P as I don't want to jack your thread. But I'm enjoying the grows like yours that exemplify what can be done with lower wattage/heat lighting systems compared to HID and would hate to see folks stick with old adages like you need 80 watts/sq ft or 7500 lumens/sq ft to get a successful garden. Notions meant to be dispelled when given the opportunity.

 

[chazbolin]

I'm a product of those inner city public schools....................hence my "creative" sentence structure and impeccable spelling/grammar

ahhh forgive me for what might have been construed as a backhand to all those students, such as the both of us, who defied the odds and managed to get marketable skills from our days spent toiling in the public school systems of, in my case the 70's. What we did have then that you don't see now are shop classes, woodworking, auto, electronics, agriculture, that peaked our interest to learn more about trade career opportunities. Many of us simply weren't college material. Let's face it, if it weren't for my ag class I would never have dug up my whole back yard and planted weed. It's been a journey ever since.

 

[hyroot]

Psu I just grabbed some sun leaves jamaican guano. Using it with uprising. I think you were right about there not being enough guano in there. But everything else in uprising is great So i'll see how it goes.

Edit:
I was gone for 2 days. Soil was very dry when I got back. They dried up faster this week. But everything started fading. So thats why I grabbed some more guano.

I can't wait for super soil to be ready.....

P.s. Im a product of public school too.. my grammar skills are poorly due to lazy phone interweb. touchscreen...... Blah blah..... Blahhh

 

[PetFlora]

Hey, much better result the second time around. I believe I called that

Have you thought about soil-less mix- vermiculite + perlite?..., toss a~ 2"s of lava rock in the bottom as a barrier in case of over watering

I'm going to start a thread on My DIY 21st Century Flood & Drain using Air Pots + lava rock

 

[THE KONASSURE]

I see what your saying Chaz

but the main point of the 1000w induction is to make the tube a larger diameter so that you get a 1000w lamp but its as long and wide as a 600w would be in the current size tube, increasing light intensity and penetration, the guys I spoke to from some company in china`s R&D department were really into the idea but they said they could not yet get the budget to build a prototype.

As they need new equipment to build the tube also their boss was worried they would not be able to drive the lamp correctly as it`s something no one`s really tried before, they seamed to think they could get more efficiency then their current 400w gets but they made it clear not to hold my breath.

They did say that they would have a 600w ready to sell soon and that an 800w was due after that so they hoped to make a 1000w and bigger one day but they also said in reality there would be low demand for such a light at the moment as most people are still unaware of induction lights and their benefits.

Anyway I`ll leave it there as much as I love talking about induction, plasma and led lights I`d rather see some more pics of PSU`s grow........................

 

[chazbolin]

Sorry P this is the last I'll tangent your thread bro...

Konassure: The main reason EFDL external coil induction lamps were created was/is to be used in a higher lumen/watt energy retrofit coupled with a wider array of control features when compared to current technology HID systems. These lamps have a high CRI for visual acuity (especially when measured in apparent brightness, VEL) which is another huge driving force behind area lighting retrofit business. This is what drives the business and a niche business like a grow lamp that really does require an adjustment to the phosphors for plant spectra to be of greatest benefit does not rise to the level that would meet most area lamp manufacturers (ie Chinese), criteria for R&D development on their dime or yuan as the case may be. The Chinese will take your money for this project but you'll be disappointed with the results. Here's why;

So while a 900 watt lamp could be made, 100mm (dia) x 1000mm (length) and increase the wall thickness from a 3mm to a 5mm the relative efficiency is horrible when compared to the 400 watt lamp diameters. You already have an induction lamp so I'm going to ask you to take a look at the glass tube where it passes through the ferrite coil, the magnet. This piece of glass is the choke down or crossover glass that is a smaller diameter than the glass running outside the coil. Notice that this choke down piece of glass is brighter than the larger diameter glass? There is a reason for this. When reducing the diameter of the glass to a 38mm from a 58mm so that the glass fits inside the ferrite which represents a 67% reduction (think dropping 4 wire gauge sizes) of the lamps overall cross section. The mercury inside the lamp represents the conductor and when you choke down the glass you reduce the number of mercury molecules within which increases the resistance on a constant current driver that must run the entire lamp. So you are dissipating more watts/linear inch on the choke down sections than on the larger diameter glass tubes that run the length of the fixture.

My point is the wattage has actually increased in the smaller diameter areas of these lamps per the basic formula: R x I squared. And if after all this is considered and you are still determined to throw more 'watts' over a square foot just squeeze another lamp or fixture next to the other one where you'd get better distribution over the canopy to boot. Which of course is unnecessary if the single light is energy efficiently delivering optimal yield/quality from your garden with the right balance of spectrum and intensity out of a single light that meets the plants (pffd) daily light integral saturation rates

 

[man0os]

double post. Sorry.