Thanks for the offer but I have modified the sinks so don't really need anything fixed now. Next time I order I will mention that I'd like the sinks that are drilled for the boards I buy. No worries or hard feelings, brother.
Too late now. I already drilled and tapped the sinks to work for QB288's. If I ever decide to get couple QB324 panels I will have sinks that I can use! I wouldn't like to do the drilling and tapping again. It took about and hour but only because I had the tools handy. If it happens again I...
The sinks were for the QB324. The QB324 takes 4 screws on each long side and 2 in the middle. The QB288 and QB304 take 3 on the long sides. It was probably a mistake at the packing stage.
Just to be clear, what I got was 2 boards with 2 single heatsinks. I don't know anything about the double length heatsinks. My guess is that the sinks I got were drilled and tapped for some other configuration. Maybe 304 or 324? There were more mounting holes than are on the QB288's.
Has anyone received Slate 2 heatsinks that are not drilled for the QB288? I just got a 2 board kit last week that I had to drill and tap holes in the proper places for the QB288's. The only holes that matched up to the boards were the two center ones. That was a bit of a pain. I hope that...
The other guys are right about the quality of the light. With that said, I can relate to your attempt to make it work. I have some experience fixing the old blurple Epistar lights. My bet is that it's not a driver. Most likely it's a single blue diode that has burnt. The way I have found a...
With the Veros you don't need to use the connectors. The chips have big solder pads that work just fine. In fact I like soldering the connections better with 20 guage solid wire. Those little connectors break too easily in my opinion. I run everything in series but I have run them in...
I use Vero 18 chips for everything. My veg is specifically designed for a 2x4 veg tent. The light consists of 4" x 36" heatsink with 10 chips. The driver is a Meanwell HLG-120H-C500B. 100k pot for dimming. The driver maxes out at 150w so at full power I am only driving the chips at 15w...
Side lighting with cobs is doable and it works. My lighting has evolved over the years from mostly monos to mostly cobs. I use 3500k Cree CXA1304, 9v version for the side lighting. There are 96 of them in all. I run them at 350ma max with dimmers. Each level is it's own dimmable, switched...
Your driver will work just fine. The Meanwell datasheet shows the overvoltage protection (hiccup mode) activates at 165-175v. You may see a negligible decrease in amperage. It's well below the overvoltage protection at only 6 volts over the driver's 148v spec.
You can run Vero13s in parallel. I have a clone light which has 2 vero13 5000k run in parallel off a single Meanwell APC-12-350. The driver outputs 36v which lights up the 2 emitters at 175ma. It uses 11.8 watts at the plug and makes enough light for full tray of cuttings. I can't see any...
Diy is the only way I could buy the quality and configuration I wanted. No question that I got what I paid for. I might buy a commercial led again some day but it will have to be better quality than what I can build.
Well said. My sentiments exactly. Big sinks and just enough fan to keep air moving. Semi-passive design has the advantage of wide margin for fan failure. I actually ran my main overhead light for several days passively but my Veros were getting up to as high as 70c. Cooler is better for...
That should work fine. I would use the pc fans, get and wire in a temperature controller to run the fans only as needed to keep the coolant temperature low. The exhaust fan may work but dedicated cooling is better. Temp controller like this...