Adding mycorrhizae, trichoderma, fulvic and humic acid to coco

MrAnxiiouz

Member
So I realized that I could add beneficial bacteria to increase root growth, nutrient uptake, etc.
Also learned that fulvic and humic acid help break down nutrients and more.

I am growing in organic: coco coir, peat moss, sphagmus (forgot to add perlite, will do when I transplant that's why I need my roots to grow)

Product (Beneficial Bacteria): Mycorrhizae and Trichoderma - Kelp4less
It is water soluble. To mix ½ tsp. with fifty (50) gallons of water.
Product (Fulvic/Humic): https://www.kelp4less.com/shop/fulvic-and-humic-blend/
Water soluble. To mix ¼ tsp. with one (1) gallon of water.

Questions:
1. Has anyone tried using these "root growth" and similar nutes in this water soluble form?
2. Doesn't that seem like a SUPER diluted solution for mycorrhizae?
3. Could I mix both fulvic/humic acid + mycorrhizae/trichoderma powder?
4. When I use this should I just use it now or wait until transplant? I'm thinking to use it now and transplanting and so on after, right?
5. Could I mix all my nutes I use with these products? I use Fox Farm Trio and (Silica) https://www.kelp4less.com/shop/soluble-silica/
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Dont add perlite if you plan on going organic/reusing soil.

Rice Hulls is a better alternative... they wont clog up your soil as they break down.

Wish I knew that before I added a bunch of SS#4 into my living soil base, but ya live and learn!
 

MrAnxiiouz

Member
Dont add perlite if you plan on going organic/reusing soil.

Rice Hulls is a better alternative... they wont clog up your soil as they break down.

Wish I knew that before I added a bunch of SS#4 into my living soil base, but ya live and learn!
Dont think I can get any Rice Hulls organics anywhere. I thought perlite would be ok.
The medium gets clogged with water and doesnt get throughout the medium equally because I dont have any aeration of any kind.
 

rob333

Well-Known Member
So I realized that I could add beneficial bacteria to increase root growth, nutrient uptake, etc.
Also learned that fulvic and humic acid help break down nutrients and more.

I am growing in organic: coco coir, peat moss, sphagmus (forgot to add perlite, will do when I transplant that's why I need my roots to grow)

Product (Beneficial Bacteria): Mycorrhizae and Trichoderma - Kelp4less
It is water soluble. To mix ½ tsp. with fifty (50) gallons of water.
Product (Fulvic/Humic): https://www.kelp4less.com/shop/fulvic-and-humic-blend/
Water soluble. To mix ¼ tsp. with one (1) gallon of water.

Questions:
1. Has anyone tried using these "root growth" and similar nutes in this water soluble form?
2. Doesn't that seem like a SUPER diluted solution for mycorrhizae?
3. Could I mix both fulvic/humic acid + mycorrhizae/trichoderma powder?
4. When I use this should I just use it now or wait until transplant? I'm thinking to use it now and transplanting and so on after, right?
5. Could I mix all my nutes I use with these products? I use Fox Farm Trio and (Silica) https://www.kelp4less.com/shop/soluble-silica/
coco is like any medium ofc u can use fulvic and humic
 

rkmcdon

Well-Known Member
Dont add perlite if you plan on going organic/reusing soil.

Rice Hulls is a better alternative... they wont clog up your soil as they break down.

Wish I knew that before I added a bunch of SS#4 into my living soil base, but ya live and learn!
Perlites bad for living soil? That's the first i've seen this. I thought perlite was completely acceptable for ROLS. I recently switched to 2/3rds rice hull and 1/3 perlite for my aeration.
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Perlites bad for living soil? That's the first i've seen this. I thought perlite was completely acceptable for ROLS. I recently switched to 2/3rds rice hull and 1/3 perlite for my aeration.
High moment... for some reason I thought he was doing no till. As long as your able to turn and reamend your soil, perlite shouldnt be an issue.

As the perlite breaks down over the years, it turns to dust that can clog your medium. The dust makes almost a clay like sludge.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Dont add perlite if you plan on going organic/reusing soil.

Rice Hulls is a better alternative... they wont clog up your soil as they break down.

Wish I knew that before I added a bunch of SS#4 into my living soil base, but ya live and learn!
Perlite is totally inert and does not 'break down'. Rice hulls DO break down and will most certainly clog your soil.

You've got your aeration totally backwards and I'm speaking with 45+ years experience using perlite for aeration AND reusing my mix. All my mixes are made from scratch.

Wet
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Perlite is totally inert and does not 'break down'. Rice hulls DO break down and will most certainly clog your soil.

You've got your aeration totally backwards and I'm speaking with 45+ years experience using perlite for aeration AND reusing my mix. All my mixes are made from scratch.

Wet
Rice hulls break down and composts in a living soil. Perlite does, however, break down over time (by compaction/breakage), and because its inert doesnt compost.

As particles break off, and turn to dust, and make their way to the bottom of a no till container over years and years, its turns to sludge and clogs the soil. You can see this yourself if you crush up some perlite into dust, and add some water to it, it becomes almost clay like. Smear that on the holes in the bottom of a pot, and watch how restricted the flow of water is.

Again, I misspoke originally... if your able to turn your soil, the issue is avoided, as again, it takes years of degradation and settling to create the issue. So in most cases, perlite is great for aeration and water retention.. rice hulls is the better option for no till. You got 2 decades on me, but 25 years of exp has to count for something as well :D

Why I thought this guys questions about running organics in coco had anything to do with no-till? :leaf:I cant tell ya, but that's where the miscommunication came from.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Rice hulls break down and composts in a living soil. Perlite does, however, break down over time (by compaction/breakage), and because its inert doesnt compost.

As particles break off, and turn to dust, and make their way to the bottom of a no till container over years and years, its turns to sludge and clogs the soil. You can see this yourself if you crush up some perlite into dust, and add some water to it, it becomes almost clay like. Smear that on the holes in the bottom of a pot, and watch how restricted the flow of water is.

Again, I misspoke originally... if your able to turn your soil, the issue is avoided, as again, it takes years of degradation and settling to create the issue. So in most cases, perlite is great for aeration and water retention.. rice hulls is the better option for no till. You got 2 decades on me, but 25 years of exp has to count for something as well :D

Why I thought this guys questions about running organics in coco had anything to do with no-till? :leaf:I cant tell ya, but that's where the miscommunication came from.
LOL, not a problem, I'm working my way to that point right now.

Ok, no till. Yes the perlite does wear down over time and the peat breaks down also. What I've found, for me, is, even recycled/reamended the mix is pretty well shot after about 5 seasons or so and I make fresh mix. The old mix is used as a top dress/mulch on top of a soil bed or garden. It doesn't get tossed, but it doesn't go back into a container either.

I'm not real big on no-till in containers. Things just work better for me if the containers are emptied every other season and the mix freshened up and remixed.

What I also use for organic aeration and eventual humus, is pine bark fines. They do break down, but much slower than rice hulls, plus they are super cheap at ~$3 for a 2cf bag. I was told to add them when learning to construct a mix all those years ago. Sold as Pine Bark Mulch (the smallest size/grind), at Lowes or HD. I add them to my mix and use as a top mulch also. Wonderful stuff.

Wet
 
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