Any adjustments for coots mix from buildasoil?

Kind Sir · Dec 16, 2020

So I’ve been doing some reading and there’s a reputable member on either here or grass city that says coots need to be adjusted with lime and such. I’ve read nothing but good things about the mix, but this member would be recognized by pretty much anyone. They also said fish bone meal would need to be added because P will be low in flower. Thoughts on all this?

I was also (my own thought,) thinking about adding a little more lava rock and a little less compost? Coast of Maine lobster compost.

green_machine_two9er · Dec 17, 2020

To me coots mix is hard to replicate. He himself will tell you you can't replicate his mix because your castings will never be his castings. Your compost is always going to be different.
I think it's mor of a starting point with nutrients. Crab neem kelp, I like to add alfalfa. And also spent a few years on the fish bone meal kick. I don't see any difference without fbm.

As far as buffers. I don't think he calls for anything? Correct me if I'm wrong.
But I do like to add oyster, gypsum, humix acid, composted biochar.

Don't skimp on your humus. What I always say is the base mix (peat/ewc-compost/airation ration should always be on point. Just like baking a cake. As long as the ratio of flour/egg/oil is correct, you can mix and match ingredients to make any flavor cake you want. That's how I look at soil building. Get your base perfect. The addition or subtraction od this or that amendment is the trial and error game. But usually youll Be successful if you base is on point, that way you fine tune as you recycle and reuse.

Kind Sir · Dec 17, 2020

green_machine_two9er said:
To me coots mix is hard to replicate. He himself will tell you you can't replicate his mix because your castings will never be his castings. Your compost is always going to be different.
I think it's mor of a starting point with nutrients. Crab neem kelp, I like to add alfalfa. And also spent a few years on the fish bone meal kick. I don't see any difference without fbm.

As far as buffers. I don't think he calls for anything? Correct me if I'm wrong.
But I do like to add oyster, gypsum, humix acid, composted biochar.

Don't skimp on your humus. What I always say is the base mix (peat/ewc-compost/airation ration should always be on point. Just like baking a cake. As long as the ratio of flour/egg/oil is correct, you can mix and match ingredients to make any flavor cake you want. That's how I look at soil building. Get your base perfect. The addition or subtraction od this or that amendment is the trial and error game. But usually youll Be successful if you base is on point, that way you fine tune as you recycle and reuse.

I actually bought the color mix premade from buildasoil along with a bunch of other stuff from buildasoil.

I have coast of Maine lobster compost and Canadian sphagnum and lava rock for aeration. I was just reading about the mix and I saw wet dog (whom I take his advice seriously,) say it needs lime.

tonight I’m going to mix the soil mix with the peat, and then break up the lava rock tomorrow and add that.

green_machine_two9er · Dec 17, 2020

my favorite mix for long term use is oyster shell, and gypsum. dolomite can serve its purpose, but from what I understand over time (years) the ratio of Mg to Ca starts to sway in the wrong direction and things can get tricky. But again there is nothing wrong with it. either way If there is no lime definitely agree with wetdog. I would shoot for around 1 cup per CF.

Kind Sir · Dec 17, 2020

green_machine_two9er said:
my favorite mix for long term use is oyster shell, and gypsum. dolomite can serve its purpose, but from what I understand over time (years) the ratio of Mg to Ca starts to sway in the wrong direction and things can get tricky. But again there is nothing wrong with it. either way If there is no lime definitely agree with wetdog. I would shoot for around 1 cup per CF.

Ya my recipe has OSF in it already, honestly probably going to go without the lime for now. I don’t recall reading any problems with coots recipe besides some who eventually said their watering habits were trash or stuff like that. I’ll only have like two weeks to let the soil cycle.

kratos015 · Dec 17, 2020

green_machine_two9er said:
To me coots mix is hard to replicate. He himself will tell you you can't replicate his mix because your castings will never be his castings. Your compost is always going to be different.
I think it's mor of a starting point with nutrients. Crab neem kelp, I like to add alfalfa. And also spent a few years on the fish bone meal kick. I don't see any difference without fbm.

As far as buffers. I don't think he calls for anything? Correct me if I'm wrong.
But I do like to add oyster, gypsum, humix acid, composted biochar.

Don't skimp on your humus. What I always say is the base mix (peat/ewc-compost/airation ration should always be on point. Just like baking a cake. As long as the ratio of flour/egg/oil is correct, you can mix and match ingredients to make any flavor cake you want. That's how I look at soil building. Get your base perfect. The addition or subtraction od this or that amendment is the trial and error game. But usually youll Be successful if you base is on point, that way you fine tune as you recycle and reuse.

This. 100%.

I disagree on the FBM. Coots himself says he only uses light P amendments due to the high P destroying soil balance and microbes alike. I believe the specific P number not to exceed was "8", but I could me remembering wrong.

OSF is pure Calcium Carbonate, so it does have buffering capabilities. Last I read, that's Coot's only buffering agent.

Kind Sir said:
So I’ve been doing some reading and there’s a reputable member on either here or grass city that says coots need to be adjusted with lime and such. I’ve read nothing but good things about the mix, but this member would be recognized by pretty much anyone. They also said fish bone meal would need to be added because P will be low in flower. Thoughts on all this?

I was also (my own thought,) thinking about adding a little more lava rock and a little less compost? Coast of Maine lobster compost.

IMO, low P in flower is either the result of not keeping up with one's top dressing or pH lockout.

I'm in favor of more aeration/drainage and less compost, personally. Unless you have the best quality EWC, of course. I run 40/40/20, 15-20% compost in the base mix and just top dress with compost consistently. Provides the benefits of the compost, while delaying soil compaction and reducing possible "clumping" in your mix.

Any adjustments for coots mix from buildasoil?

Kind Sir

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green_machine_two9er

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Kind Sir

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green_machine_two9er

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Kind Sir

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kratos015

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