Bored Mechanic - Got any car questions?
- Thread starter rucca
- Start date
Snickelfrits
Active Member
how many spark plugs does a diesel engine have 
j/k trick question my auto instructor used to ask
j/k trick question my auto instructor used to ask
PussymOneyWeed
Well-Known Member
i've got a car question. What the hell was ford thinking making it so damn annoying to change the 2nd half of my sparkplugs on my 2000 cumstang.
Snickelfrits
Active Member
lolz...cumstang
Kodank Moment
Well-Known Member
My back disc brakes on my magenta 93 Ford escort won't go on correctly. Yes they are the right pads and rotors. Yes I depressed the brake. It's like the caliper doesn't want them getting along.
akgrown
Well-Known Member
here is one to boogle your mind. my 2000 Mitsubishi Galant has a prob. According to the computer I have 2 codes but the Check Engine Light does not turn on to acknowledge them. I know the light works because when I turn on the car the lights on the dash all turn on, so I know its not a fuse, its not the bulb. I cannot get my registration because of this problem, stupid ass california, I passed emitions with flying colors but cant get that fucking light fixed.
rucca
Active Member
Wow this shit popped off! I'll try my best
It's Ford. They don't give a fuck, try an expedition
Sounds like hell - I try to not work on anything made by VW but it happens. Without seeing it I am unsure but sounds like you need a crowsfoot socket
Could have, but could be coincidence too. Have had problems with old cars where just touching a coolant line will invoke a serious leak. What is leaking?
So the brake pads are like too fat on the rotor to slide the caliper over them? I have had problems with aftermarket pads being slightly too big and had to remove the shims on them to get them to fit in. I'm going to guess though that your caliper's piston isn't fully in, especially if they are the twist in kind that functions as the emergency brake (make sure the ebrake isn't on) but you may just need to replace that caliper
It's Ford. They don't give a fuck, try an expedition
Sounds like hell - I try to not work on anything made by VW but it happens. Without seeing it I am unsure but sounds like you need a crowsfoot socket
Could have, but could be coincidence too. Have had problems with old cars where just touching a coolant line will invoke a serious leak. What is leaking?
So the brake pads are like too fat on the rotor to slide the caliper over them? I have had problems with aftermarket pads being slightly too big and had to remove the shims on them to get them to fit in. I'm going to guess though that your caliper's piston isn't fully in, especially if they are the twist in kind that functions as the emergency brake (make sure the ebrake isn't on) but you may just need to replace that caliper
rucca
Active Member
It depends on the code and I'm unsure of Cali's requirements. Generic codes (i.e. P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire) will always set a check engine light because the government requires that. Manufacturer's can also set their own codes, that do not have to turn the check engine light on. In my state, you must not have the generic P codes to pass but manufacturer codes are ok.
Since you have 2 codes, I will assume that it is not failing for P1000 OBD Checks Incomplete - this I believe is the only Generic code that will not set a check engine light. It means that your computer has not been able to test itself completely for some reason. The most common being either, the codes were just cleared, or your battery dies and erases your computers memory.
I did have a Galant last year that was failing emissions for a P1000 OBD Checks Incomplete, the cause was a high idle. The computer needs specific conditions to check for failures, one of them being a proper idle which is probably around 700-900 RPM
Kodank Moment
Well-Known Member
Rucca is beastin...watch out!
lowrider2000
Well-Known Member
ok here are some questions...... on a 2000 cadillac deville do i cheak the tranny fluid with the car on? also what do you think is the best motor swap i can do.......i have a northstar v8 i wanna boost or super charge it but its impossible to do any tunning to the computer for some reason.....so only other option is a swap? also my air bags in the back are loosing compretion the other day a had a chunky girl back there and went over a speed bump..........my under carrage hit it i felt it in my bones lol..so are there and quick fixes.........i was a mechanic as well but i used to work on jap cars cadillac is different.............
lowrider2000
Well-Known Member
as far as the deville goes my car had the same problem cheak the tranny coolant line that runs aqwardly behind the motor im sure youll find your leak
rucca
Active Member
Yeah, every car with a dipstick for the trans is always check fluid with car running on a level surface in park or nuetral. I'd recommend a swap kit to go from air ride to a standard spring and shock combo - we have had lots of good success with them. The air bags are usually too expensive for the customer. It is possible that they aren't leaking though and just have a failing sensor (likely a ride height sensor)... I fucking hate Caddys but the one good thing is you can read trouble codes through your HVAC controls. Here is the link to do so. Check for suspension codes
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/55172-how-pull-codes-dtcs-pre-98-a.html
As far as engine swaps, I'd not go there on this car. Assuming you can even find an engine that bolts to your front wheel drive transmission (other than pervious Caddy V8s with less power) It is likely that the PCM talks to the trans controller so you'd need to look into that... so much work for this heavy ass cadillac that will probably never be as fast as you want.
i need a new 787 for my seadoo. do i do my own rebuild or just buy the new one? http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/40-107.html
rucca
Active Member
That depends first on why the engine needs a rebuild. Some things aren't worth saving or possible to save. If you have bearing noise or something similar I'd suggest asking for a quote on a rebuild from a machine shop which obviously depends on why the engine has failed too...
Assuming you are doing a refresh with just new rings and bearings and seals, and you own/willing to buy some tools and feel somewhat comfortable and have some info - go for it! Don't order any parts first, carefully take it apart and take the heads and bottom end to a machine shop. Have them measure it all for you and do a valve job, then let them assemble it for you (this is key because if they do the measuring wrong or assembly wrong it is on them and measuring in thousandths of an inch is 50% science 50% feel/art)...
In the end, if we don't count your time as costing anything, you'll prolly save like 200-400 over the new engine - but if it works you'll feel amazing =)
I don't really mess with 2 stroke though
the top end is good, 155 psi. i'm waiting on a flywheel puller so i can crack the case. from what i can see thru the intake it appears a shim on the crank went. i can see a burr sticking up between the rod and the crank, i just can't tell what it is until i open it up. the puller should be here today or tomorrow.
i can save about 300 if i do it myself, but i won't get a warranty that way. it looks like i may just need a crank rebuild. i'm afraid if i only fix the crank that in a year the top end will go. since i have it out i was thinking of just doing it all. though like i said, i'm at 155 psi in each cylinder so i still have some life left. it only took about 2 hours to pull the motor so it's not really too bad to work on.
rucca
Active Member
So like $600 rebuild vs $900 new + warranty... I'd probably go new and I agree that you should do a total refresh while it's out for peace of mind
Especially after reading some about your crank. Evidently is has its bearings pressed on and requires balancing after being rebuilt. If your machine shop is comfortable with doing this - they should offer you a warranty of some type but I'm going to guess that most machine shops aren't rebuilding these often?
Especially after reading some about your crank. Evidently is has its bearings pressed on and requires balancing after being rebuilt. If your machine shop is comfortable with doing this - they should offer you a warranty of some type but I'm going to guess that most machine shops aren't rebuilding these often?
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