Can I run a 240V Ballast?

mercilus

mercilus

Well-Known Member
I believe this is a 220/240v outlet. It was for a tanning bed lol

Does anyone know if I can run a 240v ballast off of it? If so do I need to wire a new socket or is there a converter of sorts?
 

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If it is 240v then you can get a 110v faceplate and wire it up and use a standard 110v Plug for your Ballast.
 
Mr.Burnns said:
If it is 240v then you can get a 110v faceplate and wire it up and use a standard 110v Plug for your Ballast.
Click to expand...

I want the 220/240v but the ballasts from what I can tell run off of these type plugs (see pic below) I will be buying a 240v lumatek digi ballast.

I want to run it off that outlet, im hoping someone knows if I can get an adapter somewhere for it.. I can't really find one so I may have to rewire it.. which I dont really wnat to do...
 

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Measure the voltage between phases (if its dual phase) and each phase to ground and see what the results are.

For a digital ballast, I'd be careful of 240 single vs dual phase (North American vs European) Neutral maybe be needed along with ground.
Electronics are bit more sensitive to a 'ground reference' then electrical devices. (now we can get into balanced phases and phase differentials)

US 220/240 is 2 120VAC lines 180 degrees out of phase, while Euro is a *single* 230 VAC line and a neutral (both have a ground or should)

US/NA will read 120 on both phases in relation to ground & neutral but 220 between the 2 phases.

Euro will measure 230 from on 'hot' to ground and/or neutral.


So measure the outlet and let us know the outcome.
 
It's 220. Period. It can't be anything but 220 so you are fine with any 220 ballast made for use in the US on that thing.


There is no advantage to running 220 other than the ability to put more lights on one circuit. Doesn't hurt or help..

To save money I would rewire it to 110. Otherwise you will have to spend $20-30 or more just for a cord to plug into that thing. If you want to use it though just look in the section of your home center where they have the washer/dryer plugs and outlets. You can change either the cord you use or the outlet. It's the same type used for electric clothes dryers and 220 ovens/stovetops.
 
Ok, I hope this might solve the problem. I am posting a picture of the tanning beds electrical requirements that ran on it, and the fuse from the fusebox that goes to it.

This is on USA power grid so I doubt its the euro configuration you mentioned.

:dunce:


BigBudBalls said:
Measure the voltage between phases (if its dual phase) and each phase to ground and see what the results are.

For a digital ballast, I'd be careful of 240 single vs dual phase (North American vs European) Neutral maybe be needed along with ground.
Electronics are bit more sensitive to a 'ground reference' then electrical devices. (now we can get into balanced phases and phase differentials)

US 220/240 is 2 120VAC lines 180 degrees out of phase, while Euro is a *single* 230 VAC line and a neutral (both have a ground or should)

US/NA will read 120 on both phases in relation to ground & neutral but 220 between the 2 phases.

Euro will measure 230 from on 'hot' to ground and/or neutral.


So measure the outlet and let us know the outcome.
Click to expand...
 

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OregonMeds said:
It's 220. Period. If you are in the US as it seems you are. It can't be anyhting but 220 so you are fine with any 220 ballast made for use in the US on that thing.


There is no advantage to running 220 other than the ability to put more lights on one circuit. Doesn't hurt or help..
Click to expand...

i tend to agree. but you saying 277 doesn't exist in abundance in the us?
 
277?

No, I dont' think so. But most digital ballasts just work in a wide range of input voltages. Often the manual will say you can just plug it into anything from 110-277 and some can just auto adjust.

You have to RTFM on the ballast.
:)
 
Its a fairly large room and I want room to upgrade. Perhaps eventually be running another 2 600 watters for a total of three

OregonMeds said:
It's 220. Period. It can't be anything but 220 so you are fine with any 220 ballast made for use in the US on that thing.


There is no advantage to running 220 other than the ability to put more lights on one circuit. Doesn't hurt or help..

To save money I would rewire it to 110. Otherwise you will have to spend $20-30 or more just for a cord to plug into that thing. If you want to use it though just look in the section of your home center where they have the washer/dryer plugs and outlets. You can change either the cord you use or the outlet. It's the same type used for electric clothes dryers and 220 ovens/stovetops.
Click to expand...
 
OregonMeds said:
It's 220. Period. It can't be anything but 220 so you are fine with any 220 ballast made for use in the US on that thing.


There is no advantage to running 220 other than the ability to put more lights on one circuit. Doesn't hurt or help..

To save money I would rewire it to 110. Otherwise you will have to spend $20-30 or more just for a cord to plug into that thing. If you want to use it though just look in the section of your home center where they have the washer/dryer plugs and outlets. You can change either the cord you use or the outlet. It's the same type used for electric clothes dryers and 220 ovens/stovetops.
Click to expand...
:lol: Nothing says 220v like a NEMA 7-15 (sarcasm). How does rewiring to 110v save money?

Mercilus, you can get a multimeter for like $5 at most any hardware store. Don't just take anyone's advice bro; make sure you know what you're doing.

If it measures out @ 220v, all you'd have to do is replace that receptacle with a NEMA 6-15 (or 20) and make sure the amps match up at the breaker. So there's no confusion on your part. The receptacle you want would be rated for 250v (like that white one); they only cost like $2.
 
UserFriendly said:
:lol: Nothing says 220v like a NEMA 7-15 (sarcasm). How does rewiring to 110v save money?

Mercilus, you can get a multimeter for like $5 at most any hardware store. Don't just take anyone's advice bro; make sure you know what you're doing.

If it measures out @ 220v, all you'd have to do is replace that receptacle with a NEMA 6-15 (or 20) and make sure the amps match up at the breaker. So there's no confusion on your part. The receptacle you want would be rated for 250v (like that white one); they only cost like $2.
Click to expand...

I will do that. Thank you and everyone else for all your help
 
mercilus said:
I think I may just need to hire an electrician...

This just seems to get more confusing lol
:dunce:
Click to expand...
No no no, you and OregonMeds were/are correct. That's a 4-wire, 220v receptacle. I should have noticed the third slot instead of imagining a roundish hole. :oops: It's easier than I've been leading you to believe. ;-) It's a 50 amp circuit though; you should turn that receptacle into a sub-panel and power your room off of that.
 
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