Canadian Growers! Win 1 of 5 Mega Crop and Green Terra nutrient kits

OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
J232 said:
I was possibly looking for a bloom booster as I’m in early flower and have time to look. I might just try out that shine that I won. Checked out the site, I see some stuff I haven’t found elsewhere where I frequent (Canada only), I will be snagging some nutes in another month-6weeks from there. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Personally I give half a dose of Big Bud a week before flipping to flower and the other half at the flip. Then more until the end of week 5 for a 9 week strain. Longer for 12 week sativas but lower doses too as sativas aren't as needy as indicas generally. Like half the ppm. I'm using some of that high P Big Up at the start now too for the stretch. Big Bud is lower in P and at the start of flowering the plants need more but less after the stretch. BB is 0-15-35 and Big Up is 0-52-34.

You should get some bloom booster on them sooner than later. MegaCrop nutes are pretty good in the P an K so should do a decent job in bloom too without any boosters but I like my BB. lol

:peace:
 
J232

J232

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
Personally I give half a dose of Big Bud a week before flipping to flower and the other half at the flip. Then more until the end of week 5 for a 9 week strain. Longer for 12 week sativas but lower doses too as sativas aren't as needy as indicas generally. Like half the ppm. I'm using some of that high P Big Up at the start now too for the stretch. Big Bud is lower in P and at the start of flowering the plants need more but less after the stretch. BB is 0-15-35 and Big Up is 0-52-34.

You should get some bloom booster on them sooner than later. MegaCrop nutes are pretty good in the P an K so should do a decent job in bloom too without any boosters but I like my BB. lol

:peace:
Click to expand...
Hey oldmed, thanks for the info, I appreciate it you taking the time to comment. I’m running Lucas in rdwc using GH flora m/b right now with some calimagic and just a few Epsom salts, sterile. Transition is over and I must say it seemed a bit iffy compared to peat grows, I wasn’t ready for the demand. I would technically be in week one of flower. I’m not sure how to incorporate a booster yet on Lucas pushing max ec the plants can handle. They are feeding good now drinking about 7 gallons every 35-40 hours with no change in ppm/ph. RH is a bit low but not concerning. I’m kinda winging it here haha, waiting for about day 20, let the smoke settle and see what’s up. I have used big bud before in peat though with nice results. Aqua terra had a contest and I won some of this stuff I would like to try out.
D4A32714-0D49-4C46-8154-BFD2FD940FD6.jpeg
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
That should work fine.

If your RH is low I'd drop your ppm. I have chronically low RH here and that makes your plants suck up a lot more water and more salts with it that get stored in the leaves. Then about half way thru flower toxic salts buildup can raise it's ugly head and the fan leaves start to go all yellow/brown and get thick and crunchy dry. That keeps working up thru the younger leaves and even into the little bud leaves at the end. Normal yellowing in late flower the leaves go yellow and limp but stay soft and pliable until they do dry up.

Another sign of that is the edges of the leaves curling up and eventually inwards doing the 'taco' or if Canadian, the 'canoe'. :) The leaves are doing that to try to cool down by exposing more surface to evaporate more water but that draws in even more nutes/salts. So if the top of the canopy is a bit too warm the upper leaves may start showing that toxic salts damage before the lower leaves do. The salts overload is cooking them from the inside so the whole surface of the leaves burn unlike a sudden overdose of nutes where the tips along the margins of the leaves start turning brown and work in to the center.

After the stretch I switch to Lucas formula style feeding with AN 3-part but keep adding Big Bud until the end of week 5 as I said. Now that I also have the Green Terra Rock steady, 0-0-62, I use that to boost the K even more after the BB stops. Plus extra sulphur for resin in the form of Epsom salts or MSM. MSM is supposed to be an organic form of sulphur but with a name like MethylSulphonylMethane I wonder. You can buy it as a supplement at drug stores and health food stores for joint pain. Usually in 1000mg caps that you can open and dump out. I'd put one cap/L. That's 1g/L which I use as I bought a pound of it 5 years ago and capped it. Didn't seem to help so I'm feeding it to the plants now. Still have half left.

Getting late and I'm typing everything twice to get it right. The Hindu Kush isn't helping much either. I swear my fingers are going dyslexic these days. :D

:peace:
 
J232

J232

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
That should work fine.

If your RH is low I'd drop your ppm. I have chronically low RH here and that makes your plants suck up a lot more water and more salts with it that get stored in the leaves. Then about half way thru flower toxic salts buildup can raise it's ugly head and the fan leaves start to go all yellow/brown and get thick and crunchy dry. That keeps working up thru the younger leaves and even into the little bud leaves at the end. Normal yellowing in late flower the leaves go yellow and limp but stay soft and pliable until they do dry up.

Another sign of that is the edges of the leaves curling up and eventually inwards doing the 'taco' or if Canadian, the 'canoe'. :) The leaves are doing that to try to cool down by exposing more surface to evaporate more water but that draws in even more nutes/salts. So if the top of the canopy is a bit too warm the upper leaves may start showing that toxic salts damage before the lower leaves do. The salts overload is cooking them from the inside so the whole surface of the leaves burn unlike a sudden overdose of nutes where the tips along the margins of the leaves start turning brown and work in to the center.

After the stretch I switch to Lucas formula style feeding with AN 3-part but keep adding Big Bud until the end of week 5 as I said. Now that I also have the Green Terra Rock steady, 0-0-62, I use that to boost the K even more after the BB stops. Plus extra sulphur for resin in the form of Epsom salts or MSM. MSM is supposed to be an organic form of sulphur but with a name like MethylSulphonylMethane I wonder. You can buy it as a supplement at drug stores and health food stores for joint pain. Usually in 1000mg caps that you can open and dump out. I'd put one cap/L. That's 1g/L which I use as I bought a pound of it 5 years ago and capped it. Didn't seem to help so I'm feeding it to the plants now. Still have half left.

Getting late and I'm typing everything twice to get it right. The Hindu Kush isn't helping much either. I swear my fingers are going dyslexic these days. :D

:peace:
Click to expand...
That all makes sense, I will down the ppm a bit on next topup (plain water) get them off the edge. I will check out that MSM but I’m running sterile right now so anything organic is out but I’m on the fence right now about adding beneficials too. I’m trying to find a happy medium now between ambient, canopy and root temp. This is the aqua terra stuff I want to try out. Looks like it would work well. Will prob try it out this week.
 

Attachments

OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
J232 said:
That all makes sense, I will down the ppm a bit on next topup (plain water) get them off the edge. I will check out that MSM but I’m running sterile right now so anything organic is out but I’m on the fence right now about adding beneficials too. I’m trying to find a happy medium now between ambient, canopy and root temp. This is the aqua terra stuff I want to try out. Looks like it would work well. Will prob try it out this week.
Click to expand...
Don't leave them in plain water. That can cause them to dry right out and won't reduce the salts already in the leaves. I do whole grows without ever changing nutes most of the time but just take some out and top up with RO water to reduce ppm. Weekly changes especially in the first month or so are a total waste of perfectly good nutes. Gets you out buying more sooner and the makers like that. :)

MSM will work fine with a sterile grow. It's hydrocarbons like sugars or starches that can cause blooms of algae in hydro especially if beneficials are being used as it feeds them. There's no sugars or starches in the MSM and it's very water soluble.

You are going to use regular nutes with that supplement are you? Not a lot of sulphur in that but the sulphur makes the bigger difference in the last couple of weeks. As long as there is some then the trichs will fill out OK. Very hard to overdose S too.

:peace:
 
AquaTerra

AquaTerra

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
Don't leave them in plain water. That can cause them to dry right out and won't reduce the salts already in the leaves. I do whole grows without ever changing nutes most of the time but just take some out and top up with RO water to reduce ppm. Weekly changes especially in the first month or so are a total waste of perfectly good nutes. Gets you out buying more sooner and the makers like that. :)

MSM will work fine with a sterile grow. It's hydrocarbons like sugars or starches that can cause blooms of algae in hydro especially if beneficials are being used as it feeds them. There's no sugars or starches in the MSM and it's very water soluble.

You are going to use regular nutes with that supplement are you? Not a lot of sulphur in that but the sulphur makes the bigger difference in the last couple of weeks. As long as there is some then the trichs will fill out OK. Very hard to overdose S too.

:peace:
Click to expand...

Yah always just add water and let the nutrients dilute. Get a cheap float valve and have second rez to top up the water.
 
Last edited:
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
AquaTerra said:
Yah always just add water and let the nutrients dilute. Get a cheap float valve and have second rest to top up the water.
Click to expand...
I've only had 2 or 3 tubs going at one time and when the plants are big a topup every 3 days was good. I'd top up, let it bubble for 15 min or so then test the ppm. Then I would just add small amounts of the nutes into the tub to get back to my target ppm +/- 50 most times.

I did a side-by-side journal at 420mag years ago with two tubs with a bunch of plants from seed but all the same strain. Afghani Kush. One tub I never changed the nutes and the other got 2 or 3 changes the whole grow and were virtually identical. After that I just never bothered changing.

Man do you save a lot of money on nutes and do a hell of a lot less work which was the big bonus for me. Another reason I loved the pH Perfect nutes. Chasing that pH dragon around gets tiring but when I used the older AN nutes I only checked and adjusted every 3 days too and never ran into problems. Got so regular that I'd just add 4 or 5 drops of conc. sulphuric acid after adding any nutes without checking the pH as it always seemed to rise to about 6.3 and the acid dropped it back to around 5.3. I think that up and down was good for the plants as it puts various nutes in their optimum range for at least part of each 3 day period. To many people waste a lot of time trying to keep it on one specific spot. I'd never use an auto pH adjuster unless it allowed for a large range before squirting Up or Down into the mix.

I do like to do a change right after the stretch to switch to Lucas Formula type feeding if I'm up to it. Even the MegaCrop wants you to increase the ppm as you get further into flower and when I try that I get serious burn and toxic salts buildup so I'm going lower as flowering progresses but tweaking the mix to higher K and S with lower N and P. Decent amount of Micro tho but not lots. My environmental conditions are very low RH and 70 - 75F most of the year. With all the rain lately and a hot muggy day today it's 72F and RH 60 in there right now with one 400W MH going. I have a remote temp/RH screen right above the one I'm typing on. The exhaust fan won't kick in until it hits 75F and RH 70 so that's why the RH is so high. Just 20 small plants in there so they aren't adding a lot of moisture.

I hear them calling for a drink so down I go. :)

:peace:
 
J232

J232

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
Don't leave them in plain water. That can cause them to dry right out and won't reduce the salts already in the leaves. I do whole grows without ever changing nutes most of the time but just take some out and top up with RO water to reduce ppm. Weekly changes especially in the first month or so are a total waste of perfectly good nutes. Gets you out buying more sooner and the makers like that. :)

MSM will work fine with a sterile grow. It's hydrocarbons like sugars or starches that can cause blooms of algae in hydro especially if beneficials are being used as it feeds them. There's no sugars or starches in the MSM and it's very water soluble.

You are going to use regular nutes with that supplement are you? Not a lot of sulphur in that but the sulphur makes the bigger difference in the last couple of weeks. As long as there is some then the trichs will fill out OK. Very hard to overdose S too.

:peace:
Click to expand...
Ah, well my setup is about 70 gallons prob closer to 75. My last water change was right about transition, I ran Lucas using GH micro and bloom. Think my initial feed was 600ml/m and 1200 bloom, 400 calimagic. I flipped on 5/29, since then I have added back 28 gallons and 400 micro, 800 bloom and about 3-350 calimagic. Topped off last night with 1/8 tsp per gallon of epsom. Ppm riding about 1250 steady. I meant I can just add back plain water, I do it in 7gallon jugs, I have a float valve but disconnected it just for myself to better control and monitor seeing it’s my first hydro run. With 7 gallon adds, it’s easy 50m/100b and no change in ppm when added, every 30-40 hours is seems. I’m growing more concerned with my rh and canopy temp. I have a thread here with some of my concerns, they are doing better now, bout 10 days but something still seems off and it might be rh/temp.

Hungry.. hot.. angry..

Hey guys, I need a second option on these pics, happened right around the switch to 12/12. 3-4 days.. they look hungry, so I gave them a bit, then I was like well shit this is hot too, moved my light up. Next day, well nothing changed, no worse no better. Ok have some more food, shit lights...
www.rollitup.org

Good to know about the MSM, I’m going to check that out for sure then. I’m all down for tweaking this.

Checking my labels here, bloom is 1% S and that’s all it’s getting right now I guess. This shine bloom additive offers another 2%, i better find a bit more somewhere I think. :leaf:
 
Last edited:
J232

J232

Well-Known Member
AquaTerra said:
Yah always just add water and let the nutrients dilute. Get a cheap float valve and have second rez to top up the water.
Click to expand...
I never really thought of that, premix nutes and feed from there. I like it, thank you sir. I do have a float valve but was feeding ro and topping up nutes but quit that all together awhile back, went to dosing premixed 7 gallon jugs. Bigger jugs and float is even easier.
 
J232

J232

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
I've only had 2 or 3 tubs going at one time and when the plants are big a topup every 3 days was good. I'd top up, let it bubble for 15 min or so then test the ppm. Then I would just add small amounts of the nutes into the tub to get back to my target ppm +/- 50 most times.

I did a side-by-side journal at 420mag years ago with two tubs with a bunch of plants from seed but all the same strain. Afghani Kush. One tub I never changed the nutes and the other got 2 or 3 changes the whole grow and were virtually identical. After that I just never bothered changing.

Man do you save a lot of money on nutes and do a hell of a lot less work which was the big bonus for me. Another reason I loved the pH Perfect nutes. Chasing that pH dragon around gets tiring but when I used the older AN nutes I only checked and adjusted every 3 days too and never ran into problems. Got so regular that I'd just add 4 or 5 drops of conc. sulphuric acid after adding any nutes without checking the pH as it always seemed to rise to about 6.3 and the acid dropped it back to around 5.3. I think that up and down was good for the plants as it puts various nutes in their optimum range for at least part of each 3 day period. To many people waste a lot of time trying to keep it on one specific spot. I'd never use an auto pH adjuster unless it allowed for a large range before squirting Up or Down into the mix.

I do like to do a change right after the stretch to switch to Lucas Formula type feeding if I'm up to it. Even the MegaCrop wants you to increase the ppm as you get further into flower and when I try that I get serious burn and toxic salts buildup so I'm going lower as flowering progresses but tweaking the mix to higher K and S with lower N and P. Decent amount of Micro tho but not lots. My environmental conditions are very low RH and 70 - 75F most of the year. With all the rain lately and a hot muggy day today it's 72F and RH 60 in there right now with one 400W MH going. I have a remote temp/RH screen right above the one I'm typing on. The exhaust fan won't kick in until it hits 75F and RH 70 so that's why the RH is so high. Just 20 small plants in there so they aren't adding a lot of moisture.

I hear them calling for a drink so down I go. :)

:peace:
Click to expand...
That’s awesome man, my ph has been good to me, with a bigger water volume, the only time I have had to ph is when I do large water swaps and that’s only been a couple times. I upped my ph to 5.9 then 6 this week from a solid 2 months of 5.8. I vegged these plants for about 60 days, let them pre flower, there’s a couple that are getting pretty big, they are hot and low on rh, I’m down to 39 tonight burning 1600w of hps. I peaked the root zone last night and my basket is about to explode... I’m not sure if that’s a thing in hydro but I’m sure it’s going to happen, this plant is ripping it apart under the lid, a 16 top manifold. 15 top actually... I was high and cut the wrong thing back when... oops.

F32E0A96-FB2A-4277-B2BC-E42324A3663D.jpeg31C3166F-FCF1-4490-B505-728AE42865DA.jpeg
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
J232 said:
That’s awesome man, my ph has been good to me, with a bigger water volume, the only time I have had to ph is when I do large water swaps and that’s only been a couple times. I upped my ph to 5.9 then 6 this week from a solid 2 months of 5.8. I vegged these plants for about 60 days, let them pre flower, there’s a couple that are getting pretty big, they are hot and low on rh, I’m down to 39 tonight burning 1600w of hps. I peaked the root zone last night and my basket is about to explode... I’m not sure if that’s a thing in hydro but I’m sure it’s going to happen, this plant is ripping it apart under the lid, a 16 top manifold. 15 top actually... I was high and cut the wrong thing back when... oops.

View attachment 4590897View attachment 4590898
Click to expand...
I'll check in at your other thread and see what's up. I kept a 3.5" basket with a fat root ripping it apart as souvenir. lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top