I'm new to these led grow light an wonder would this be the best fit for my flower room?. Grow tent will be a 4x8 tent
Help with led
- Thread starter Soupsaa
- Start date
Gardenator
Well-Known Member
2 of those would be what you need over a 4x8 these are built for a 4x4 or 5x5 coverage area, talk to their tech to get the specifications you need. They seem to know their stuff, it has the added red and far red and no 5k leds if you call or inquire via email to the technicians, the tech says that the 800w version is a de replacement, they build their own drivers in their facility as well. I just ordered a few of these with all 3000k and 3500k samsung 301b's, and the red and far red chips are by Osram, the lights are ip65 and the entire fixture is backed by a 5 year warranty... i have no way of validating the leds being samsung and osram leds but the technology is readily available and out there now and i dont feel like they would back a shit light with a 5 year warranty full replacement (that shipping back is on you though if you dont care)... once these come in ill post some pics, 20 more days or so coming over the ocean, air was more ecpensive but only took a week, in any case didnt need the fixtures here that soon so went with sea frate, at $600 shipped to your door, with all the customizations to the spectrum, its a really good deal, so long as they preform as intended and the company isnt full of it, but like i said if they built a shit fixture why give it a 5 year warranty? Surely they wouldnt want to be handing the lights out for free over warranty all the time right?
Gardenator
Well-Known Member
The technician said the E1 spectrum was the best because of the emmerson effect, that one has the added red and far red in it, notice its a broader wider spectral range, just a fuller spectrum in terms of wave lengths, the v1 only reaches (and barely) the 640nm, where the E1 reaches to 760nm the far red- more flower power... i would certainly inquire with a tech at the facility via email or phone call because they will fully customize your spectrum and leds for you with little added cost... id just air frate as well because its faster, its an added $150 per light i believe they said, sea frate is like $130 or so give or take lol i cant rember off the top of my noggin but it was half the cost in shipping for sea frate if you can wait the 3 weeks its takes to arrive. I will also be posting a journal of my first test run under one of these in a dedicated flower room so people can see the preformance of the lights, im excited they seem to be the real deal but we will see...
Gardenator
Well-Known Member
Also those are the specifications and ppf charts for the 600w version, ask for the 800w not the 600w
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Why 800w per 4x4?. Bit excessive
Gardenator
Well-Known Member
1000w de is a 4x4 foot print correct? 800w supposed to be a de replacement, 800w would allow OP to hang the light up high and basically not have to adjust, 600w would be 18inches and follow the plant upwards as it grows. My goal was 1000w de replacements, that dont have to be adjusted much, just like the de's. the 800 is a better deal and more light per dollar to the 600 (almost the same price) but you are right 800w will be a bit much in a 4x4 tent but OP asked about a 4x8, the two 800w should produce around 4.5 pounds or more then the 600's and under the 600's is more like 3-3.5lbs... please dont quote me as im not the expert i just spent a couple hours with them going over the lights and fullfilling my own person requirements... also seen 4 1100w par pro lumitech bulbs on de ballasts over 2 4x8 tables, in giant raptor hoods, 24inches above canopy, in a 12x12 room, as long as food, C02, and temps are good, there should be no problems, if it happens to be a bit much you can always dim the light back. I am recommending the 800w because i liked it the most out of all their options for fixtures.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
This is the light that was sent out with LM281B diodes and 301B/H. They're a bit sketchy. There's a whole thread on it.
My Alibaba Strip Lights
Sorry everyone but life got in the way and I wasn’t able to get the par meter this past weekend to run the numbers. We will be meeting up this weekend
www.rollitup.org
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
That was me. They claim it was a mistake and I’m still waiting on them to fix it.
if they’d actually sent me lights with lm301 diodes I’d be raving about them the way that one dude on here raves about amare. Everything about them is awesome except the fact that they didn’t send me what I ordered. I really hope they make it right because I’d love to recommend this company.
Gardenator
Well-Known Member
I hope they do make it right, i just ordered 6 lights from these guys, should be here in a couple weeks... ill let ya know how they are when they arrive, i will be a little upset if they mess it up or i dont get what i ordered somehow
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
Let me know what happens. If you get 2835s instead of 3030s too we’ll know for sure they’re scammers.
Gardenator
Well-Known Member
Okay deal, it will still be 2 weeks before they arrive
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
3000k is what you're looking for flowering
The F1 chart is 3200k according the seller idk about the E1 spectrum
Cannabis will flower under almost any white light ,no matter the source (CFL,
HID,LED,etc) and no matter the CCT & CRI .It’s the hours under light vs dark period which induces and promotes flowering and not the light spectrum .
But...
As a crude rule of thumb ,
for cannabis flowering under white light :
The more
blue light contained in the white mix ,
the bud quality tends to increase , but with a negative impact on yield.Only 10-15%
of the total power should be blue light for plant health and vigor .More than that , Blue light effects
will be induced dramatically.
The more green contained in the mix overall yield will increase (as the lower buds will gain more weight ) , but potency will drop ,regarding the production and final concentration of Δ9-THC.
Still , about 25-30% of the power has
to be green light ,for plant health and vigor .More than that ,adverse effects
might be induced ( like shade avoidance syndrome,low potency,slow bud growth rates ,etc).
The more red light contained in the mix ,the more carbohydrates are being
synthesized and more nitrates are being assimilated ,thus yield is affected positively ,regarding mainly top buds ,while overall cannabinoid production is also affected positively.
40-60 % of the white mix ,should be red light ,for productive plant cultivation ....
Far red should be present at very low
quantity ( 2,5-5 % ),due to Emerson effect affecting positively the yield .Also keeps the Pr/Pfr ratio more balanced.
Too much of it ( like with 2700K 90Ra ) ,will cause internodal stretching,shade avoidance syndrome and excessive internal heat. Foxtailing is more likely to occur ,also.
More or less ...
EDIT: You will probably encounter suggestions like “ CCT & CRI are human vision centered metrics ,thus are useless for plant cultivation.“
While this is being generally true ,still
in the phosphor conversion white LED lighting world ,the CCT value represents more or less a certain SPD curve -thus certain standard R-G-B-FR ratios ( phosphor(s) amount ) ,while the CCT value gives away the phosphors used for producing white light out from a monochromatic blue light excitation source (peak: ~ 440-450 nm)...
CRI 70:A single yellow or yellow-green (peak : ~ 560-570 nm) phosphor used.Highest electric efficiency ,but lowest photosynthetic one.Less cooling required.
CRI 80: Blend of a green ( pk :~550 nm ) phosphor with an orange-red one ( peak around 600 nm ) .A balance between electric efficiency & photosynthetic efficiency.
CRI 90 / 90+ : Blend of a green (pk:~550 nm )phosphor with a red one ( peak around 630 nm ) .Highest photosynthetic efficiency ,but lowest electric one .LED devices of high CRI generate more heat,due to higher Stokes shift losses,etc.
HID,LED,etc) and no matter the CCT & CRI .It’s the hours under light vs dark period which induces and promotes flowering and not the light spectrum .
But...
As a crude rule of thumb ,
for cannabis flowering under white light :
The more
blue light contained in the white mix ,
the bud quality tends to increase , but with a negative impact on yield.Only 10-15%
of the total power should be blue light for plant health and vigor .More than that , Blue light effects
will be induced dramatically.
The more green contained in the mix overall yield will increase (as the lower buds will gain more weight ) , but potency will drop ,regarding the production and final concentration of Δ9-THC.
Still , about 25-30% of the power has
to be green light ,for plant health and vigor .More than that ,adverse effects
might be induced ( like shade avoidance syndrome,low potency,slow bud growth rates ,etc).
The more red light contained in the mix ,the more carbohydrates are being
synthesized and more nitrates are being assimilated ,thus yield is affected positively ,regarding mainly top buds ,while overall cannabinoid production is also affected positively.
40-60 % of the white mix ,should be red light ,for productive plant cultivation ....
Far red should be present at very low
quantity ( 2,5-5 % ),due to Emerson effect affecting positively the yield .Also keeps the Pr/Pfr ratio more balanced.
Too much of it ( like with 2700K 90Ra ) ,will cause internodal stretching,shade avoidance syndrome and excessive internal heat. Foxtailing is more likely to occur ,also.
More or less ...
EDIT: You will probably encounter suggestions like “ CCT & CRI are human vision centered metrics ,thus are useless for plant cultivation.“
While this is being generally true ,still
in the phosphor conversion white LED lighting world ,the CCT value represents more or less a certain SPD curve -thus certain standard R-G-B-FR ratios ( phosphor(s) amount ) ,while the CCT value gives away the phosphors used for producing white light out from a monochromatic blue light excitation source (peak: ~ 440-450 nm)...
CRI 70:A single yellow or yellow-green (peak : ~ 560-570 nm) phosphor used.Highest electric efficiency ,but lowest photosynthetic one.Less cooling required.
CRI 80: Blend of a green ( pk :~550 nm ) phosphor with an orange-red one ( peak around 600 nm ) .A balance between electric efficiency & photosynthetic efficiency.
CRI 90 / 90+ : Blend of a green (pk:~550 nm )phosphor with a red one ( peak around 630 nm ) .Highest photosynthetic efficiency ,but lowest electric one .LED devices of high CRI generate more heat,due to higher Stokes shift losses,etc.
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