How long should i veg my plant if i only have 2.5 inches of space betwen each net pot

SAmisery

Well-Known Member
i have 5 in net pot and i have 5 of them in a 10 gallon reservoir aproximatly 2.5 in between net..

how long should i veg my plants before i run out of room?
 

bobbyboy34

Well-Known Member
you can veg as long as you want, the key is to have pwerful enough light to penetrade the shading leaves of the lower branches, and to keep tha grow area cool as well

remember, you can bend those plants to where space is available using dental floss, it won't cut the stem, just to it gradually
 

potpimp

Sector 5 Moderator
You won't be able to use that system for very long; you might be able to squeek through to flower then you'll have to have more space.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
i have 5 in net pot and i have 5 of them in a 10 gallon reservoir aproximatly 2.5 in between net..

how long should i veg my plants before i run out of room?
Bro are u flowering clones?The only way i can see this being possible is If u rooted 4-5 inch cuttings and placed them directly into flower...During flower tho U would have to prolly watch and top ur water in that tub 3 or 4 times/day. Life would be easier in an 18 gallon bro....
 

bobbyboy34

Well-Known Member
yeah man, im sorry to day but that 10 gal res you have you are only going to be able to fill it to about 7 gallons, simply because if you are using rockwool you can't have that sitting in water as to it will start to turn your water back ,and every water change you will have that rockwool still in there infecting the water

go larger, just get like a 30 gal, im going for a 50 gal soon, i have a 18gal right now
 

SAmisery

Well-Known Member
i have a 24 gallon reservoir so thats no problem but will that make a differ on how close my plants are together... the lids are teh same size its just the reservoir that bigger up wise
 

bobbyboy34

Well-Known Member
some rubbermaid totes are wider than taller and vise versa, depending on light strength is what you will need to consider when it comes to how far apart plants should be. if you have a HPS 600 or better, main stalks 7-10 inches apart are fine, ou grow will look like one big bush
 

SAmisery

Well-Known Member
well ill change out the reservoirs because the plants will need a bigger reservoir but im pretty sure theyll be fine with there distance. people were saying i can bend there stalk is that true.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Chop the lower 1/3 stems and fan leaves off prior to flower and concetrate on the TOP cola and U should should be fine with a bigger res to make ur life easier...
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Bro check out AL B fucts Threads pertaining to this type of grow man.. Limitless proven knowledge based info.,on all the latest and greatest info available scientificly or otherwise just waiting to be blown up and exploited!
All im doing is spreading the message brotha..
Better yet, Check out OLDS grow and look at the very first post (diagrahm)in one of Als threads, and see how well this system works..When i seen olds pix i thought i was looking at that diagrahm.
LIsten to everything old in the way has to say.
 

bobbyboy34

Well-Known Member
Chop the lower 1/3 stems and fan leaves off prior to flower and concetrate on the TOP cola and U should should be fine with a bigger res to make ur life easier...
do not chop off fan leaves on the main stalk, it is ok to prune branches down botton to focus growth strength up top, but do not do this directly before flowering as to it will lower yeilds because of time spent repairing. NO PRUNING SHOULD BE DONE DURING FLOWERING

two weeks min, four weeks best, use this amount of time for plants to restore vigor and repair itself after pruning branches off before going into flowering.

its not like the immediate week you cut branches off is when vigor is directy toward the top. There will no longer be any lower branches therefore no energy is going to growth there, therefore all vigor will be going towards the top.

Fan leaves on main stem are the plants backup nute sources, do not remove these, let them do their thing until they die and fall off or get loose enough to take off by hand without force.
 

Old in the Way

Well-Known Member
do not chop off fan leaves on the main stalk, it is ok to prune branches down botton to focus growth strength up top, but do not do this directly before flowering as to it will lower yeilds because of time spent repairing. NO PRUNING SHOULD BE DONE DURING FLOWERING

two weeks min, four weeks best, use this amount of time for plants to restore vigor and repair itself after pruning branches off before going into flowering.

its not like the immediate week you cut branches off is when vigor is directy toward the top. There will no longer be any lower branches therefore no energy is going to growth there, therefore all vigor will be going towards the top.

Fan leaves on main stem are the plants backup nute sources, do not remove these, let them do their thing until they die and fall off or get loose enough to take off by hand without force.
This is somewhat true when flowering seed grown plants--but only when pruning growth tips or pruning from the top-down....however when pruning from the bottom-up, often done when "tree-forming" ornamentals as recommended--the plant will rarely feel this let alone show much impact......

This will encourage upper cola formation by completely eliminating flowers on the lower third of the plant while maintaing enough airflow to allow you to grow plants at 4x the density without the worry of molds and fungi attacking the dense foliage and adjacent flowers.

I would also like to note that the more you prune growth tips (as we all know) the more division occurs and thus creates an open, vase-shaped bush......

if flowering from seedlings in a tub where space between plants is the issue--or less so than height--DO NOT TOP--Prior to flower.

This will leave only a single leader plant that will grow tall and narrow if crowded--regardless of species (indica or sativa--this forced stretch occurs because the plant measures the amount of available light in the red spectrum and when crowded most red light has been absorbed from the neighboring plants so they stretch in an effort to reach more of the desired spectrum.

This will be the closest thing to a lollipoped clone you will be able to grow from seed and then pruning--from the bottom-up as recommended can be done with no ill effect. And alot less manicuring by eliminating the fluffy popcorn you would otherwise harvest from the lowest branches.

If he flowers in a 24 gallon rubbermaid with the net pots 2.5 inches apart and the last time he prunes is 2-4 weeks before flower (implying 2-4 wk veg time after last prune+veg time prior to pruning) he will end up running out of room and will be forced to sacrafice a plant or three.

Your seedling won't act quite the same as my clones but this is what you want in an ideal world where net-cups are installed 2.5" apart by the manufacturer:neutral:

7 days into flower--first pruning, bottom-up



18 days into flower--second/last pruning



Then you only need a half inch between pots..........



:mrgreen:
-OitW
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
This is somewhat true when flowering seed grown plants--but only when pruning growth tips or pruning from the top-down....however when pruning from the bottom-up, often done when "tree-forming" ornamentals as recommended--the plant will rarely feel this let alone show much impact......

This will encourage upper cola formation by completely eliminating flowers on the lower third of the plant while maintaing enough airflow to allow you to grow plants at 4x the density without the worry of molds and fungi attacking the dense foliage and adjacent flowers.

I would also like to note that the more you prune growth tips (as we all know) the more division occurs and thus creates an open, vase-shaped bush......

if flowering from seedlings in a tub where space between plants is the issue--or less so than height--DO NOT TOP--Prior to flower.

This will leave only a single leader plant that will grow tall and narrow if crowded--regardless of species (indica or sativa--this forced stretch occurs because the plant measures the amount of available light in the red spectrum and when crowded most red light has been absorbed from the neighboring plants so they stretch in an effort to reach more of the desired spectrum.

This will be the closest thing to a lollipoped clone you will be able to grow from seed and then pruning--from the bottom-up as recommended can be done with no ill effect. And alot less manicuring by eliminating the fluffy popcorn you would otherwise harvest from the lowest branches.

If he flowers in a 24 gallon rubbermaid with the net pots 2.5 inches apart and the last time he prunes is 2-4 weeks before flower (implying 2-4 wk veg time after last prune+veg time prior to pruning) he will end up running out of room and will be forced to sacrafice a plant or three.

Your seedling won't act quite the same as my clones but this is what you want in an ideal world where net-cups are installed 2.5" apart by the manufacturer:neutral:

7 days into flower--first pruning, bottom-up



18 days into flower--second/last pruning



Then you only need a half inch between pots..........



:mrgreen:
-OitW
Thank U Sir..Wow cant even comment on this post..Gotta let this soak in and germinate...Heres that diagraham ive been taking about misery..Just compare this to the post above:
Get a harvest every 2 weeks
permalink


This style of op is known as 'Sea of Green' or SoG.

You can build this op in any scale you like, from a single mother and just one plant put in to the flowering area every two weeks up to as big as your needs require.

The idea is to grow only the top cola of a naturally growing plant with none of the lower branches and the small buds those branches produce. All branching, pretty much everything on the lower 1/3 of the plant, is snipped off in about wk 2 & 3.



Plant at 6 wks flowering, note lower branching is removed


The method of putting clones in to flower with no vegging time keeps plants relatively short, to about 36-40" (1 metre), which better suits artificial lighting.

Even powerful HPS lighting can only penetrate foliage so deeply, so a metre tall is just about right. I find that big lights give better bud density, so I use two 1000W HPS, one over each pair of 4' x 4' flood trays.

The mums are maintained under 24 hour 400W HPS. The clonebox has 6x 18W fluoro tubes (24"), usually on 24/7 but shut off for the first 6-8 hours after doing a new batch of cuttings.

Clones go straight from the clonebox into the flowering trays- no vegging required. They grow a little bit vegetatively for the first 3-4 weeks but then stop getting taller and start making bud weight after then.

I keep about 6-8 mothers and do about 30 cuttings every 2 weeks from them. I choose the best 20-23 clones to be put in the 4-tray flowering area.

Leftover clones become replacement mothers or are discarded. Mothers are replaced one by one, about every 4-8 weeks as needed.

As each batch of clones goes in to tray #1, a batch comes out of tray #4 to be harvested, every 2 weeks.

The mother vegging area is in the same room with the flowering plants, but has a lightproof curtain to prevent interrupting the flowering plants' light cycle and has its own ventilation system as well. Each tray in both the veg & flower areas has its own pump, reservoir tank and timer, allowing the watering rate and nute mix to be tailored to the plant for vegging as well as during each 2 week phase of flowering.

See my gallery for pics of the op in action as well as pix of clones in rockwool cubes and clonebox details.
 
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