leaves curling downward , need advice

iammeca

iammeca

Well-Known Member
I have done alot of looking around and I belive i just havent found much on them going down atlease nothing with pictures to confirm. My res is 10gal tote, lightproof, ph is 5.8 and stable, nutrients are technafloras Bc Line of boost,bloom, root 66, thrive alive red, sugar daddy and magic cal. and using sensisym for good bacteria. im in 4th week of flowering and noticing leaves are curling downward maybe this is typical but seems to early into flowering. especially since the top leaves are doing it the most. Any advice would be helpful.
ppm 1100 truncheon

2010-09-04 21.41.12.jpg2010-09-02 23.10.52.jpg2010-09-07 00.10.02.jpg2010-09-02 23.11.17.jpg2010-09-02 23.10.58.jpg2010-09-07 00.10.32.jpg2010-09-07 00.10.40.jpg2010-09-04 21.41.38.jpg
pencil.png
 
Usually it is a sign of overwatering, but with DWC that will be almost impossible, esp if you have an air bubbler and it looks like you do.
Your pH is great for hydro, the only issue I can see from the infor provided is that the ppms are too high- usually they need to be 1/3 strength as compared to other hydro methods, and anything over 650 is asking for trouble. If you bring the ppms down you should see a vast improvement in 36 hours. Hope that helps, and good luck with the grow.
 
HomeGrown&Smoked said:
Usually it is a sign of overwatering, but with DWC that will be almost impossible, esp if you have an air bubbler and it looks like you do.
Your pH is great for hydro, the only issue I can see from the infor provided is that the ppms are too high- usually they need to be 1/3 strength as compared to other hydro methods, and anything over 650 is asking for trouble. If you bring the ppms down you should see a vast improvement in 36 hours. Hope that helps, and good luck with the grow.
Click to expand...


thanks ill lower them and try to post an update. from what I know 1100 is fair but maybe its just to much.
 
No problem iammeca. 1100 would be great for other types of hydro, but since the roots are exposed to the nutes at all times in DWC, the ppms need to be a lot lower. Once you have them lowered, you can start raising the ppm to get an idea of what the upper threshold is, but they look pretty decent right now so they should make a full recovery.
 
[FONT=&quot]Solving Marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Plenty of first time and experienced marijuana growers will suffer at some point in their cannabis growing career marijuana plants that begin to show leaf damage.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Often they write emails or post on forums.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]or[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.[/FONT]

  1. [FONT=&quot]Too much marijuana fertilizer[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
    A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. [/FONT]
  2. [FONT=&quot]High Heat[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf dessication or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.[/FONT]
  3. [FONT=&quot]Too much light[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.[/FONT]
  4. [FONT=&quot]Over Watering[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.[/FONT]
  5. [FONT=&quot]Not Enough Water[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.[/FONT]
 
+rep Woods !

Don't lower you ppm's ! Nothing is wrong with them.
Your leaves would be fried if they were too high and I saw no burns.
650 ppm's is a beginning stage for flowering in DWC, unless your running a KNOWN nute sensitive strain. Like some of DJ Shorts.
Check my thread/grow now.
12/12 from seed, on Day 42 today @ 950 ppm's. Been over 650 since Day 28.

What is the wattage of your light and how high is it from the top of the canopy ?
What's your root system look like ?
Some ppl have success with adding enzyme's to their dwc and some don't.
It's not a soil grow. It's not supposed to be enzyme's or bacteria in the water, unless you add or create them.
Which will cause other chemical reactions to take place, like when making teas for feeding.
Having the right amount, or more, of air stones/bubbles ensures anaerobic bacteria are repelled.

Hope you don't mind the pics, IamMeca
 
tons of leaves turning yellow and cuppling now, plenty of air in the res my root ball floats on the surface of the water 95% submerged but at the top. most of my grows the root balls weight keeps at center to bottom of res. also coming to the realization my top cola has like 0 production. some buds 4 even 8 nodes down are 10x its size. I know I burned here a little in week 2 but it wasnt to the point it changed color at all. ill have pics of roots shortly.
 
ok finally have pics of the leaves and rootball, as you can imagine the hps hides the yellowness of the leaves unless im right up on it. next time ill use my 6500k 200watt cfl to light the plant so you can see the leaves better. today the leaves are 10x more yellow and starting to be a over all yellow. More or less first yellowing mostly the bottom and fan leaves supporting the stalk. now yellowing happing on branch leaves.
2010-09-09 18.10.48.jpg2010-09-09 18.03.41.jpg2010-09-09 18.03.12.jpg2010-09-09 18.01.50.jpg2010-09-07 00.10.02.jpg2010-09-09 18.08.02.jpg2010-09-09 18.07.43.jpg2010-09-09 18.11.11.jpg2010-09-09 18.02.17.jpg2010-09-07 00.10.40.jpg2010-09-09 18.03.02.jpg2010-09-09 18.10.53.jpg2010-09-09 18.03.21.jpg2010-09-07 00.10.32.jpg2010-09-09 18.10.40.jpg2010-09-07 00.23.57.jpg2010-09-09 18.11.04.jpg2010-09-09 18.02.26.jpg2010-09-09 18.07.35.jpg2010-09-09 18.02.36.jpg2010-09-09 18.10.25.jpg2010-09-09 18.07.55.jpg2010-09-09 18.02.00.jpg
 
Def not nute burn.

How high is the water to the bottom of your pot ?
You may have a possible nute lock out ?
Nitrogen ? Calcium and Magnesium ?
 
Damn. That is strange. It looks like you have a couple of small problems but Im afraid I dont know what they are.

@Flo Grower: Dude those babies had some pretty thick stems.
 
Bottom third of the roots need to be submerged in the solution. They aren't burned, but they are overfed so I think once the water level comes down the plants should start to look better. Were you able to get your ppm in the 650 range? Is your pH still in the 5.8 range? If yes to both, then it should just be the water level.
 
are your air stones still putting out lots of bubbles,also what is your nute temp,did you clean out your buckets at least 1 time during the grow,the salts lay at the bottom of the bucket and your roots are most likely laying on top of it.it could be a couple things combined. good luck
 
water level is 1 inch away from bottom of netpots., I believe I might have some slight root rot, its my only thought. the yellowing wouldn't bother me one bit if it was all lower, but now its all over in 1 night.
 
snocat said:
are your air stones still putting out lots of bubbles,also what is your nute temp,did you clean out your buckets at least 1 time during the grow,the salts lay at the bottom of the bucket and your roots are most likely laying on top of it.it could be a couple things combined. good luck
Click to expand...
yeah I clean the dwc bi weekly also recently treated with some h202 the 29% kind from the hydro shop. I wonder if they burned my roots.
 
HomeGrown&Smoked said:
Bottom third of the roots need to be submerged in the solution. They aren't burned, but they are overfed so I think once the water level comes down the plants should start to look better. Were you able to get your ppm in the 650 range? Is your pH still in the 5.8 range? If yes to both, then it should just be the water level.
Click to expand...
yeah im out of ideas so now im going to drop my ppm, the rez is about 81 day time 74 night time. I know its high but until I can afford a water chiller im out of luck.
 
iammeca said:
yeah I clean the dwc bi weekly also recently treated with some h202 the 29% kind from the hydro shop. I wonder if they burned my roots.
Click to expand...
I have used h2o2 but the 3% that you can get at the pharmacy,I use a tsp per gallon of water,if you didnt dilute it enough you may have caused the problem not sure what the ratio is for the 29% stuff but I know I did read it here at one time,there are no hydro stores in my area so I have to use the 3% h2o2.hope you didnt cause your problem with that h2o2 good luck
 
also can you put frozen water bottles in your bucket to keep the temps down,Im doing that now with a plant that is taking forever to finish up from my last grow,I have a home built rdwc ready to go as soon as my clones get a little bigger hope this helps
 
snocat said:
also can you put frozen water bottles in your bucket to keep the temps down,Im doing that now with a plant that is taking forever to finish up from my last grow,I have a home built rdwc ready to go as soon as my clones get a little bigger hope this helps
Click to expand...

exactly what he said, get some 20oz bottles filled 3/4 of the way with bottled water, you can attach string if youd like so you dont have to fish it out, but be careful, string can wick out water from your res if youre not careful... start off with 1 bottle and note the temperature drop. you can also run dwc in a cooler like i did which will stabilize your temps alot. however the ambient temp of the room your pumps are in has a lot to do with how fast your water heats up... i will say you have to get your temps down, also DO NOT LOWER YOUR NUTES, there is no reason to, you show no signs of nute burn... i will explain why your leaves are drooping:

your plants are being overwatered/starved of oxygen, this is happening because your water temps are too high and less dissolved oxygen is held in warmer water than cooler, get your res temps stable, in between 65-68F and you will be good... also, make sure your pumps output enough for your setup. you may want to get a DO meter.
 
defcomexperiment said:
your plants are being overwatered/starved of oxygen, this is happening because your water temps are too high and less dissolved oxygen is held in warmer water than cooler, get your res temps stable, in between 65-68F and you will be good... also, make sure your pumps output enough for your setup. you may want to get a DO meter.
Click to expand...
really good info, I will look into do meters and will definitely be getting one if there no outrageously priced. cool im going to put some frozen water bottles in tomorrow during lights on and see how that goes. random question anyone have any idea how long your bottles last if you use them, I know its temp dependent but just ball parked.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
New grow after long hiatus -- a bit rusty and could use some advice.
Replies
7
Views
868
notlow6
N
baldylox59
Curling/Wavy leaves
Replies
5
Views
867
baldylox59
baldylox59
M
First timer needing help (ebb & flow)
Replies
17
Views
995
match box
match box
SxIstew
Nutrient and Pest prolem solver WITH Pictorial
Replies
15
Views
6K
cannabis love
cannabis love
scottkndrck
1ST Grow 65W CFL and Autoflowers, any advice appreciated
Replies
17
Views
3K
scottkndrck
scottkndrck
Back
Top