Need advice on how to set up the Electrical in my Grow Room plz!!

Hi Everyone,

First let me start off by apologizing for posting something that I'm sure has been answered already, but I've searched through the forums and I couldn't find anything that gave me the answer I'm looking for..

This will be my first time setting up my own grow room and I'm not sure how to set up the electrical. I've had plenty of experience growing this heavenly herb, but I never had to build my own room. Basically, I'm building a room within a room (5'x12'x7') surrounded by drywall with a concrete floor and I have lined the walls with panda film. The following is a list of my equipment:

• 2 – 600 watt 6” tube air-cooled lights
• 2 – 6” Inline duct fans (71w, 0.67amps) 263 CFM
• 2 – Fans (Air Circulation)
• 1 - Submersible Water Pump - 396gph
• 1 - CGC-1e Greenhouse Controller
• Insulated Ducting
• Carbon Filter
• Heater
• AC Unit
• Dehumidifier

I was thinking of having a small sub-panel setup for the electrical, but I don't know if it's necessary. I don't want to plug everything in and hope for the best lol, so I really need some advice. If anyone could provide me with pics, or a step by step guide, or even another thread, it would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks everyone!!

Hey bud,

Chances are your home is wired into zones. This means that all the outlets in the room that your grow is in are probably on 1 circuit (breaker). Judging by the equipment that you have and assuming that it is all 120v you should probably bring in an additional two 20amp breaker, dual outlets (just like the ones that are on your wall that have 2 outlets per box). You want to use no more than 75-80% of the rated load for that outlet/breaker. So, if you have a 20 amp breaker don't put more than 15-16amps on it. The two new outlets you bring into the room should carry the ballasts, a/c, heater, and dehumidifier split evenly between the two outlets. The rest of the item can be put on the existing outlets via extension cords or power strips.

Hope that helps. If you need help with the actual electrical then let me know.

I would say if you can have someone drop a 220 outlet in your gerage befor you build. Take that 220 and run it to your room have a sub panel braking it down to 4-6 110 outlets. I have a detect 220 in mine I said I need a welder in there that can pull 80 amps. I'm suppose to have a 100 amp 220 braker but don't. And my house has 250amp service. There is alot to figure out and if you add up everything you think you need add 1/2 that and that is the the drop you need. Have someone that knows what they are doing do it. I did it all myself but know how. And have the tools to do it.

a sub panel isn't needed but if you want to expand further down the road,it would make life easier then for not much money.
2 20 amp circuits added to what you already have should be enough.(you never mentioned what size AC) but a 220 30 amp breaker and 1 run of 10/3 romex will cost about as much as 2 20 amp breaker and 2 runs of 12/2 romex so your only added cost would be a small subpanel & a few breakers for it.I would guess it would add under $40 to the job & give you up to 60 amps of 110. if you need a larger AC or want to add another light or go to 1000 watt lights later, all you would need is a breaker & a few feet of romex.

phillipchristian said:

Hey bud,

Chances are your home is wored into zones. This means that all the outlets in the room that your grow is in are probably on 1 circuit (breaker). Jusdging by the equipment that you have and assuming that it is all 120v you should probably bring in an additional two 20amp breaker, dual outlets (just like the ones that are on your wall that have 2 outlets per box). You want to use no more than 75-80% of the rated load for that outlet/breaker. So, if you have a 20 amp breaker don't put more than 15-16amps on it. The two new outlets you bring into the room should carry the ballasts, a/c, heater, and dehumidifier split evenly between the two outlets. The rest of the item can be put on the existing outlets via extension cords or power strips.

Hope that helps. If you need help with the actual electrical then let me know.

Click to expand...

Thanks replying to my post brutha! Let me go into a little more detail on my setup. The room I built is within a garage that is separate from the house. The garage door doesn't exactly seal air tight which is why I decided to build a smaller room inside that would be relatively easier to control. The issue that I'm running into is not having enough power going into this poorly designed garage. I was only able to find ONE outlet so I'll definitely need more power. So here are my questions:

1. I still need to determine whether the garage is on its own circuit, but if it is, could I simply run more outlets from the one outlet that I have in there?

2. If it's not on it's own circuit, I'd like to install a separate breaker which would be dedicated for this room meaning that I would have to run wire. I don't expect you to write me a step by step guide on this, but do you know of any resources online that could walk me through this?

I know the smart thing to do here would be to hire an electrician, but as I'm sure you know, you can't just trust anyone to do this kind of work. Plus, I hate having to rely on others when I know I'm capable of doing the work myself, I just don't have the knowledge yet. Anyways, any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again..

Warlock1369 said:

I would say if you can have someone drop a 220 outlet in your gerage befor you build. Take that 220 and run it to your room have a sub panel braking it down to 4-6 110 outlets. I have a detect 220 in mine I said I need a welder in there that can pull 80 amps. I'm suppose to have a 100 amp 220 braker but don't. And my house has 250amp service. There is alot to figure out and if you add up everything you think you need add 1/2 that and that is the the drop you need. Have someone that knows what they are doing do it. I did it all myself but know how. And have the tools to do it.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions.. How do I find the amount amp service going into my house?

these boxes are cool, you supply 230v to the box and get 4-8 outlets, you plug the other cable into a timer that controls the whole box.
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-12112-sentinel-hph-4high-power-hid-controller.aspx

jesper said:

Thanks for the suggestions.. How do I find the amount amp service going into my house?

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look inside the panel of your main house breaker, or look for the biggest breaker in the box, should be 100amp or bigger.

mydixiewrecked said:

these boxes are cool, you supply 230v to the box and get 4-8 outlets, you plug the other cable into a timer that controls the whole box.
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-12112-sentinel-hph-4high-power-hid-controller.aspx

Click to expand...

That's actually pretty cool.. How exactly would you supply 230v to it?

jesper said:

Thanks replying to my post brutha! Let me go into a little more detail on my setup. The room I built is within a garage that is separate from the house. The garage door doesn't exactly seal air tight which is why I decided to build a smaller room inside that would be relatively easier to control. The issue that I'm running into is not having enough power going into this poorly designed garage. I was only able to find ONE outlet so I'll definitely need more power. So here are my questions:

1. I still need to determine whether the garage is on its own circuit, but if it is, could I simply run more outlets from the one outlet that I have in there?

2. If it's not on it's own circuit, I'd like to install a separate breaker which would be dedicated for this room meaning that I would have to run wire. I don't expect you to write me a step by step guide on this, but do you know of any resources online that could walk me through this?

I know the smart thing to do here would be to hire an electrician, but as I'm sure you know, you can't just trust anyone to do this kind of work. Plus, I hate having to rely on others when I know I'm capable of doing the work myself, I just don't have the knowledge yet. Anyways, any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again..

Click to expand...

Hey bud, glad to help. If the garage is seperate from the house then I definitely suggest you bring a subpanel into their. Like Madcow said it really isn't going to cost you much more and will allow you to expand in the future. I can't say for certain but I would imagine that the garage is on it's own circuit if it is detached. If anything that circuit may control the outlet in the garage and possible any outdoor lights or outlets as well. Usually electricians try to wore house in zones. Esay way to find out is to turn everything on in that area and then flip the breaker and see what works and what doesn't. For outlets just stick lamp or digital clock in them and see if they work after the breaker is tripped. Either way you're best bet is the subpanel.

mydixiewrecked said:

these boxes are cool, you supply 230v to the box and get 4-8 outlets, you plug the other cable into a timer that controls the whole box.
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-12112-sentinel-hph-4high-power-hid-controller.aspx

Click to expand...

That box is actually a lighting controller. You really don't want to use that. They are meant to be hardwired to a breaker in you panel and then designed to control your lights and fans. They only have 1 trigger cord (sometimes 2) and are meant to have that cord plugged into a timer that is then plugged into the wall. So that box would allow you to plug several things into it but they would all have to be on the same timer because you can not plug timers into the individual outlets. Plus, the cost of that box alone is about what it would cost you in wire, breakers, conduit, and a subpanel to have a mcuh safer and more efficient system. That box will end up being a lot more expensive to install.

If you would like me to talk to you about how to install a subpanel then let me know. I also recommend that you hire an electrician but if you are going to do it yourself then I'll be glad to help and keep you from burning the place down.

phillipchristian said:

Hey bud, glad to help. If the garage is seperate from the house then I definitely suggest you bring a subpanel into their. Like Madcow said it really isn't going to cost you much more and will allow you to expand in the future. I can't say for certain but I would imagine that the garage is on it's own circuit if it is detached. If anything that circuit may control the outlet in the garage and possible any outdoor lights or outlets as well. Usually electricians try to wore house in zones. Esay way to find out is to turn everything on in that area and then flip the breaker and see what works and what doesn't. For outlets just stick lamp or digital clock in them and see if they work after the breaker is tripped. Either way you're best bet is the subpanel.




That box is actually a lighting controller. You really don't want to use that. They are meant to be hardwired to a breaker in you panel and then designed to control your lights and fans. They only have 1 trigger cord (sometimes 2) and are meant to have that cord plugged into a timer that is then plugged into the wall. So that box would allow you to plug several things into it but they would all have to be on the same timer because you can not plug timers into the individual outlets. Plus, the cost of that box alone is about what it would cost you in wire, breakers, conduit, and a subpanel to have a mcuh safer and more efficient system. That box will end up being a lot more expensive to install.

If you would like me to talk to you about how to install a subpanel then let me know. I also recommend that you hire an electrician but if you are going to do it yourself then I'll be glad to help and keep you from burning the place down.

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Awesome, thanks phill.. I may just take you up on that lol. I'll gather a little more info on the current electrical, maybe include some pictures of the breaker box. I'll update the thread once I have all of that.

jesper said:

That's actually pretty cool.. How exactly would you supply 230v to it?

Click to expand...

Have an electrician do it if you don't know. you need to run wires from your breaker panel to the box. Kinda the whole point of the box is you CAN use 1 timer to control lights,fans. instead of needing multiple timers for every light that comes on at the same time.

mydixiewrecked said:

Have an electrician do it if you don't know. you need to run wires from your breaker panel to the box. Kinda the whole point of the box is you CAN use 1 timer to control lights,fans. instead of needing multiple timers for every light that comes on at the same time.

Click to expand...

That box is not going to work. Not everything in your grow room needs to be on a timer or may need to be on seperate timers. Those boxes are designed to control HID lights and possibly their inline fans but that is it. If anything he would need a 8 light controller with dual trigger cords. And why would you pay triple what it would cost you to bring in a subpanel. It doesn't make sense. Plus, that box is only rated for 30 amps which leads me to believe the outlets are 240v outlets anyway. Plus, why pay that much to bring in just 30amps and still have to use the only outlet in the room for the trigger cord? You could pay half as much and get 60amps into that room. Sorry Dixie but you are WAY off.

phillipchristian said:

That box is not going to work. Not everything in your grow room needs to be on a timer or may need to be on seperate timers. Those boxes are designed to control HID lights and possibly their inline fans but that is it. If anything he would need a 8 light controller with dual trigger cords. And why would you pay triple what it would cost you to bring in a subpanel. It doesn't make sense. Plus, that box is only rated for 30 amps which leads me to believe the outlets are 240v outlets anyway. Plus, why pay that much to bring in just 30amps and still have to use the only outlet in the room for the trigger cord? You could pay half as much and get 60amps into that room. Sorry Dixie but you are WAY off.

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you just like to argue everything without research, you like to regurjitate the same shit, THAT box comes in a 50 amp 8 light,http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-12113-sentinel-hph-8high-power-hid-controller.aspx,,jeeees, if anyone else posted it up, you wouldn't argue with them. and I guarantee it can be found for a lot less then that retail price posted.

mydixiewrecked said:

you just like to argue everything without research, you like to regurjitate the same shit, THAT box comes in a 50 amp 8 light,http://www.sunlightsupply.com/p-12113-sentinel-hph-8high-power-hid-controller.aspx,,jeeees, if anyone else posted it up, you wouldn't argue with them. and I guarantee it can be found for a lot less then that retail price posted.

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You continuolly follow me into threads and post any information you can that is contrary to mine. Since you are suggesting that box in the first place shows me that you have no clue as to it's limitations or about electricity in general and should not even be posting here. If you want to troll then go to Toke n' Talk. Giving bad advice to new growers is not the isea behind this forum but seems to be something you are perfecting. I am sure that someone will shortly enter this thread and disagree with you as well and like all the times before you will dissappear until you show up again trolling a thread and trying to start an argument with me.

You haven't answwered a single question that I proposed or counter a single argument that I have made. Do you have anything intelligent to say or can you explain why this box is better than a subpanel?

1. This box (even the new one you posted) only has a SINGLE trigger cord. These boxes are designed to have the trigger cord plugged into a timer. You can not plug a timer into the individual outlets on the box. So how is it that the OP is supposed to individually control the time on his ballasts and fans?
2. That box has a trigger cord that needs to be plugged into a 120v outlet. So you propose bringing power to that box and using the only 120v outlet in the room so that everything has to be run from that box? That means a lot of extension cords.
3. Let's say you get that box at a discount of $225. How is this cheaper than running a panel to the room that has none of the drawbacks stated above? A 60-70amp subpanel will cost around $45-$55. 4 20amp breakers will cost $15-$20. 3-4 outlets and wiring will cost $25. We won't count the electrical wire and conduit from the main breaker panel because both boxes need it. So, I can get outlets anywhere in the room with individual timers if need be all for under $100 or I can buy that box and have to wire everything to it for $225.

Seriously bro, you don't have a clue. If you want to flame or troll then go somewhere else. You haven't once offered an intelligent explanation for what you are proposing.

mydixiewrecked said:

you just like to argue everything without research, you like to regurjitate the same shit

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PLEASE show me "research" that proves you are correct. Or at least try and say something intelligent that has to do with this problem or the possibility of that box being and efficient option here. Can you? I know you can't. I'll bet money that the next post you throw up in here (if you even have the balls) will just be another flaming response that has nothing to do with the actual problem and does not contain a single shred of anything that could be considered an intelligent argument or debate about the subject at hand.

Flame On.....

you are effin dilusional, i didn't say anything to or at you and you automatically went to being negative about my post, go back and reread it, douchebag. sorry op, I was just trying to offer other suggestions, but this douchebag is the effin authority on how not use forums.

phillipchristian said:

That box is actually a lighting controller. You really don't want to use that. They are meant to be hardwired to a breaker in you panel and then designed to control your lights and fans. They only have 1 trigger cord (sometimes 2) and are meant to have that cord plugged into a timer that is then plugged into the wall. So that box would allow you to plug several things into it but they would all have to be on the same timer because you can not plug timers into the individual outlets. Plus, the cost of that box alone is about what it would cost you in wire, breakers, conduit, and a subpanel to have a mcuh safer and more efficient system. That box will end up being a lot more expensive to install.

Click to expand...

phillipchristian said:

That box is not going to work. Not everything in your grow room needs to be on a timer or may need to be on seperate timers. Those boxes are designed to control HID lights and possibly their inline fans but that is it. If anything he would need a 8 light controller with dual trigger cords. And why would you pay triple what it would cost you to bring in a subpanel. It doesn't make sense. Plus, that box is only rated for 30 amps which leads me to believe the outlets are 240v outlets anyway. Plus, why pay that much to bring in just 30amps and still have to use the only outlet in the room for the trigger cord? You could pay half as much and get 60amps into that room. Sorry Dixie but you are WAY off.

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Above you have both of my responses to your first posts. After which you said i like to argue and that I am just regurjitating the same shit. This is how I know you are a ghost account but that explaination is for another time. Please explain to me how it is that I was trying to argue with you. Look at the quotes. You started talking shit before I did. I was just pointing out that your advice was wrong. Is no one allowed to disagree with you? You might not want to come to a forum then. Considering your history of just plain stupid advice I wouldn't be surprised if you have a lot of people disagree with you. From the threads I have been involved in with you I haven't found 1 person who's agreed with anything you say. Not surprising though considering you use this account to troll and flame other members.

Please explain when "I" started to argue with you. Or even better..please explain how your proposed idea will work or answer a single one of my questions regarding that box as an option here.

That box will not work for seperate timers. It will work for 4 lights turning on at the same time. I have about 10 timers I my room and none go off at the same time. He needs a way to add outlets not just power. A panel box is really the best way.

I can pretty much guarantee that Dixie is gone for now. It is the ghost account of another member here who has a problem with me because I proved that he was a fraud. He does this everytime. Posts a few times trying to bait me into an argument with him so he can complain to the MODS. He'll show up in a week or so in a thread I post in and start all over again.