Vertical Flo

tjs221999

Active Member
Got a lil cash to experiment with so I want to build a "light box".
:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:
What I am building is an "grow box" inside floor area 4X4X8. Whats different is the I'm using shop lights as the walls all the way around.

So I watched the Jorge Cervantes' ultimate Grow DVD :-? and framed out my box for my desired area like he did with 2X4's mounted all electrical just as you would with anew construction home :joint:and instead of the mylar for the walls I use thin plywood.

Now I have a big wooden box :joint:fitted with 20 electrical standard 120V outlets inside and a mini breaker box on the outside A/C unit type receiving all the circuits. (Flors don't pull much juice :mrgreen:but I rather be safe and have protection)

Next I Get 15 or 20 4' Shop lights ($15 each including bulbs Walmart) and mount them VERTICAL out of the boxes with self taping sheet metal screws (cord end up electrical outlets are mounted high remember box is 8' tall to accomm:-|odate sativas) There should be minimum spacing between the fixtures they should be reflectors side by side all around.

Now what you have is 4 walls of light of which nearly 0% of light loss.


Now for the bulbs alternate in each fixture red blue red blue all the way around the room.

*****I grow in soil so my fixture are placed at pot rim height to maximize light use.**********alter to fit your needs**********

Next cut holes for intake and exhaust to match with whatever system you have, fresh air comes from inside the room where the box is housed I prefer to have the intake at the bottom and the ex:peace:aust fan at the top to direct the cool air at the floor to rise up over the plants

From the floor up to the hottest area of the box the top (also where the velocity of air movement is the:joint: greatest) acting doubly as a cooling system for the ballast and air movement for the plant to encourage strong stems and replace CO2 around the leaves that they consume rather quickly.

To complete install power cord to mini breaker box.

(To make I take heavy duty 1" around drop cord (yes the expensive one) and chop off the female end strip down and hard wire to mini breaker box.)

After all 20 fixtures are plugged into the 20 receptacles we installed at the top earlier do the same outside with the breaker off.

Finally plug into a good wall outlet ( and by good I mean not much on the circuit nothing that would be drawing more amps than the box) Like not on the same breaker as yo:joint:ur fridge or microwave A/C stuff like that and not on a outlet that goes out or trips allot or what have you.

Now the cost of this is approx :

Lights $180 / $300 (based on if you built with 15 or 20 Fixtures you can do it with 15 to save cash and get great numbers (lumens, efficiency, ect.)

2X4 like $3 bucks each 12

Plywood $10 a sheet 1/8" thick 5

***I use screws to keep my door closed as a security measure
***12 screws set in pre drilled holes secure it when closed hinges allow open when removed.


Large Outside corner door hinges $10
* I forgot to put in about the 1 swinging wall thats the door so all electrical on that wall must accommodates
the opening based on how wide you need or want it to be mine full open for easy access*

Screws Long black $5
Sheet metal 1/2" $5

Total $250.00 or $370.00
Total watts: 600W or 800W depending on 15 or 20 Fixtures
Total Lumens: 59,000 or 44,250K
*400W HPS Lamp/Bulb
400 Watts HPS

50,000 initial lumens
400w MH 36,000 lumens. total avg cost $400 for a switchable system


F32T8/SPX50/ECO
20,000 Life Hours
Initial Lumens: 2,950
Color Rendering Index: 86
5000K Full Spectrum
40 Watt
Length: 48.0 in.


Plants going in box to flower below:hump:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/61381-grandaddy-purp-mysterybud.html
 

tjs221999

Active Member
screw that I just went to bewellhydr
oponics in Charlotte and coped a 600w system and some suplies I cant buy local
 
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